I like a powerful, simple system. A system that won't break down and lasts a long time... sold by a reliable company. Could you make a video on systems like I just described?
One thing is certain, Good=$$, Better=$$$ and Best=$$$$$$, costlier to purchase and costlier for replacement parts. I have the "good" system, (noise not an issue for me) easy to maintain and inexpensive parts, even the OEM parts, best for the DIY'er, You are more than correct, an inexperienced DIY should not mess with any of these systems, especially the Bosch and the Daikin. Great informative video, Thanks man
Basic is better for me because its simple. Energy efficiency systems cost more and it will cost more for parts. It will save on energy but once the ecm motors fail, it will cost 1k for the motor not including labor.
I have the R-32 Daikin Atmosphera, my suggestion to you is to ask for the Daikin One thermostat to be added with the mini split for remotely controlling your system. The built is WiFi is great but the accompanying Daikin ComfortControl app that it uses it not good when paired with the Daikin Atmosphera. That’s my only complaint. Trust me, get the Daikin One thermostat if you want to control your mini split without using the remote it comes with or if you want to operate the mini split from outside your home.
I’m not sure about colors. But my system was installed before the 2.0 ever came out. Indoor unit has aconstant torque motor. Not variable speed. Definitely 1.0.
Hey Josh I noticed that under your disconnect outside of what appears to be another box for cable or internet is open to the elements. I’m sure you knew that though. Great informative video. I like this new hands on style of videos you’re making.
A regular dad but cooler! 😂 I'm listening to videos as I install this new Pioneer system. Brazing done, about to tighten things down and pressure check.
@@NewHVACGuide So far I'm impressed by the sensation of quality. The cased indoor coil AR4260 looks and feels industrial compared to the Goodman U-60 I put on thirty years ago that it's replacing. The YH4260 outdoor unit looks well made, the connections are easy to access, laid out nicely inside plumbing and board-wise (although accessing the motor driver inverter board behind the main board panel requires some disassembly), it has dip switch settings including "pump down mode" and a three digit seven segment display for error codes (and maybe run mode too, I think). It has straight up wiring for activation and mode, and an optionally used "S" wire for communication (which I have no idea what the protocol is for, nor range of control)(wish I did but I haven't seen any documentation detailing this information). I downloaded the service manual and skimmed through that. Nice that that's easily available. I'm taking a break but the gas system is buttoned up now and I'm grabbing the nitrogen to throw some pressure on it before dinner. I still have to run the wiring. Looking at the terminal block for the power, I'm a bit underwhelmed by the size of wire it appears to accept. I've got #4 Cu going to the Goodman, and you know contactors, they have good terminals. This thing, we'll see; I may have to use short pieces of smaller wire to get from the feeder to the terminal. TTYL
@@NewHVACGuide Further observations, Josh... The size of the Goodman compressor (which still runs strong after thirty years) is 6-8 times the volumetric size of the Pioneer. The vapor tubing in the Goodman is 7/8" throughout including the reversing valve while in the pioneer it's half inch and 3/4". Both surprising especially given the Goodman is rated four ton and the pioneer, five. I really like that the cased coil has high and low service ports and shutoffs. That provides additional isolation capabilities from outdoor shutoffs only. Interestingly, the outdoor unit access ports are the old standard 1/4" flare while the indoor coil has the larger standard that is associated with 410A, 5/16", I believe. It takes the same adapters as the mini-splits. The terminal block easily accepted #10 solid. Pioneer spec's #8 which I've yet to source. They recommend eye terminal ends on stranded wires. Some sensor wires were touching tubing around the compressor. They're jacketed, probably rated for the temps, but I don't like that so I tie-wrapped them to avoid contact. I got it vac'ed, measured out extra refrigerant for lines and filter/dryer, and temporarily wired. Fired it up last night, ran it for a little over an hour in cool mode, duct air temperature ten feet downstream of the coil reached a low of 48.7F, about a gallon of water was condensed from an initial indoor humidity reading of 53.4% at 78F lowering to 49.6% at 76F. Doesn't seem like much change but it felt much different. The outdoor unit is ridiculously quiet. I thought it hadn't started when I first went out. It wasn't until I came around to within a few feet of it that I heard the low rustling of air by the fans and the subtle whining of the inverter output frequencies slowly ramping. This morning I exercised heat mode. Within five minutes, I was seeing duct air temp hitting 100F. Five minutes later, I saw 121F. No typo! And with incomplete line insulation. Now, it's kinda warm out, 65F, but the highest I ever saw from the Goodman was 105F. Typically it would run about 100F, and take a good twenty minutes to hit it. I have a continuous monitor so I can see duct air temp every time I walk past my display panel. If this performance is indicative, then it's a hella upgrade. Much more than I expected. I haven't measured the current draw. When I get my #8s, I'll install a continuous current and voltage monitor so I can check it at a glance anytime I'm curious. I can say that I didn't feel any temperature rise of the temporary #10 NM feeder cable.
Sounds about right. I was looking into replacing that from my Carrier 25HHA and had the same 75dBA! That was an indication it was the old style single stage low SEER. Granted it was the American Standard Side Discharge. I ended up with a different brand that was inverter based.
@@PHamster It’s our second year here and happened to be outside when it shut down. Doesn’t sound normal and more than a contractor opening. Still under the parts warranty but I don’t think the compressor is part of it.
Seems to me that the communicating system is more aligned for the modern home or structures that are more airtight and less effected by outside temperatures. I can't imagine have such a precise system in an older structure that breathes because the system is going to be trying to work all of its efficiency and never really catch up due to air exchanges in older buildings. The middle Bosch unit worries me having 240v being routed by that circuit board. I'm sure its expensive and when it burns out most likely it will have to been ordered and a $500 part plus markup. I don't see those having a 20+ year lifespan either plus highly dependent on OEM parts 15 years later sounds more of a pipe dream. That Goodman unit has a few benefits in that if a contactor, a capacitor or a fan motor need replaced, folks and their HVAC repairmen are not stuck with having to use OEM parts. Same with the compressor I'd guess. What really needs to be part of the decision factors with these three units are the cost of power they will be subject to. If folks in California are paying 43 cents per kWh in summer and want to save as much money on the electric bill for those 4 months, they may benefit from the upper end systems while many folks who have low electric rates such as Nevada who currently charges 8 cents per kWh, may not see any real savings with higher end systems compared to that Goodman single stage. Then there are those who are in the middle, requiring heating and cooling year-round but the electric rates are higher than the average. Because they will consume many kWh's each month using a heat pump, a stingy system is their best investment over the long term. There are a lot of folks who are being forced to pay upwards of $12,000 a year in electricity for an average house due to over charging of electric rates. Very sad...
Yes if the systems can communicate. Usually the outdoor unit and indoor unit need to be the same brand installed at the same time for the stages to match.
Definitely depends on whether we are talking about a communicating system or not. Send me the model numbers of the equipment you’re talking about and I can definitively answer this question.
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daikin fit has poor cold weather heating capacity. there are other communicating systems - some of which are side discharge that are true cold climate heatpumps
They all have their strengths and weaknesses. Having something budget friendly and compact may sacrifice in other areas. What's your goto product/brand?
@@NewHVACGuide I'm not a contractor. to me the inverter tech is not worth it except for old climate heatpump applications. the parts are proprietary and troubleshooting is unit specific. If I was buying a inverter heatpump for a cold climate dual fuel application it would be carrier 38mura and clones or gree flex on the low end -> carrier greenspeed, rheem or lennox equivalent with communicating thermostat on high end. You can buy compact slim single stage units from carrier and trane that only have contactor and capacitors to go bad. Don't need to go inverter to have a slim compact unit.
