*Table of Contents:* - Intro [0:00] - CB Deflection [0:11] - Outside and Inside Spin [1:24] - Back-Hand English (BHE) [2:15] - Squirt and Swerve [3:42] - Front-Hand English (FHE) [4:57] - BHE/FHE Calibration Drill [5:53] - Throw [7:34] ---- gearing outside English (GOE) [7:45] ---- cut-induced throw (CIT) [8:14] ---- spin-induced throw (SIT) [8:35] ---- aim compensation [8:55] - Game Situation Examples [9:26] - Wrap Up [11:45] ---- summary [12:22] ---- "Got English?" T-shirt [13:22] *Supporting Resources:* - System for Aiming With Sidespin (SAWS): drdavebilliards.com/saws/ - "Got English?" T-Shirt: drdavebilliards.com/T-shirt/Got_English_T-shirt.html - Many other T-shirt, mug, and cap designs from Dr. Dave: drdavebilliardtshirts.com/ - How to Aim Pool Shots (HAPS) instructional series: drdavebilliards.com/aiming/ - When and why to use sidespin: see HAPS-I, VEPS-II, VEPP-II, and VENT-III (recommended in this order) here: drdavebilliards.com/ - How to Aim When Using Sidespin: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/sidespin/aim/compensation - Back-Hand and Front-Hand English (BHE and FHE): billiards.colostate.edu/faq/sidespin/bhe-fhe/ - BHE/FHE Calibration Drill document: billiards.colostate.edu/resource_files/BHE-FHE_calibration.pdf - Gearing Outside English: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/sidespin/outside-gearing/ - Sidespin Example Shot Diagrams: billiards.colostate.edu/resource_files/BU_English_Examples.pdf - Squirt, Swerve, and Throw Effects: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/sidespin/effects/#list - Throw Tutorial: billiards.colostate.edu/tutorial/throw/ *NOTE CONCERNING FOLLOW-THROUGH:* Part of the first section dealing with "CB Deflection" came from my "How to Select a Pool Cue, Cue Ball Deflection, Carbon Fiber, Revo vs. Cuetec" video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AwytGsNl2vc.html Check out the "NOTE CONCERNING FOLLOW-THROUGH" in the video description or pinned comment of that video concerning why the follow through looks crooked. For convenience, here it is: During the first set of tests, hitting the CB straight up table with parallel english, my follow-through was not very straight. However, I did hit the CB accurately, with the desired tip position and in the desired direction. The crooked follow-through happened after the CB was gone, so the shots still had the desired outcome. I did some additional filming to help me diagnose what was causing the non-straight follow through. Playing the new video back in slow motion showed the cause. When the tip hits the right side of the CB, a sideways force pushes the shaft to the right against the thumb of my open bridge. Then the cue bounces to the left off the thumb causing the follow through to veer left, but the CB is long gone by the time this happens. Regardless, when I did the original filming, I did a large number of shots with each test and with each cue, and only included the shots that seemed to be the most-representative "average" shots for each, so I am confident the relative comparison is accurate. Also, for a newer video showing a collection of similar cue tests with a much more careful procedure and stroke, see my "CUE TESTING for Cue Ball Deflection, And PREDATOR REVO Carbon Fiber Shaft SIZE EFFECTS" video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Al2gyPgGlPg.html
Hi Dr Dave, can you help with this shot Efren make. I've been trying to figure it out for quite a while? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pLAIkA2gIRs.html Thanks for all you do!
Willy Horn Exactly. And the BHE pivot correction depends on bridge length. And the FHE pivot depends on grip hand position. That’s why each player needs to do the BHE/FHE calibration drill on their own to find their personal percentages for a given shaft.
Before I saw this video I was the guy who would try to use some sidespin, miss horribly, and stand there with eyebrows furrowed, mouth open, and palm upturned towards the ceiling wondering what happened. Now I am the guy who tries to use some sidespin, misses by a little bit, and at least knows what physically happened and went wrong with the shot. Thank you for this video explanation and for giving me something to work on!
I hope the info helps. And if you want to learn more, see the videos, articles, and other resources under the various topics here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/sidespin/aim/ Enjoy!
Dr. Dave As a lover of the game and lifelong learner, your videos are tremendous not only in information but in your generosity in sharing them. Thank you for your time and kindness. 👍
Dave. This is the best Aiming video for english on the web. After one hour after watching, I mastered it and was running the table!... and then I woke up. But seriously, FANTASTIC STUFF!
I used to be pretty good in my younger days..Picked it up again recently..and after a 1 year and now 65 realize I had no clue how technical this game is..I knew basic diamond play and other fundamentals..draw roll throw...but it's like I have become a student of the game now and Dr.Dave is the ZenMaster. We were great instinct/feel players back then...and now to have a guide or base to work from for every shot is exciting and amazing. I do so many things now because of what DrDave has taught me/us..I actually have a "pre-shot" routine now..never did before. I watch Dr.Dave's videos over and over but some things stick upon first lesson...just needed someone to describe technical side and show the physics of it and DrDave does it best....Kudos Sir and Thank you.
I really like your empirical approach to the game, Dr. Dave. Not only do your videos clearly illustrate the physics of the game; they also debunk old pool myths, especially with your super slow motion videos. Great work and thank you.
Dr. Dave, yours are by far the best instructional videos of RU-vid, and that's a lot. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, you deserve to be supported.
Insanely great detail on English usage in Pool. Appreciate your time, attention and benevolence in your work. Your videos make me an even bigger fan and student of the game. Thank you!
Dave: Thank you so much for your dedication and advise. I've been struggling with compensation for at least 4 months, today I have applied this system and I've pocket balls I've never done before. P.S. I've bought your book and I recomend it to anyone, from novice to "experts"
This is something that I have noticed in my game a lot and struggle with. I knew my shots were being affected by something but didn't know what it was called or how to counter it. Now I have something to work off of. Those misses always frustrate me the most because I never knew how to fix it or if it was really a thing or if I was just not as accurate as I thought. This video really helps put my mind at ease and hopefully I can get this squirt and swerve and throw down with some dedicated practice. The next time I go to the table will be drill after drill after drill.
This makes much more sense now, I’ve finally got my top, middle and bottom fundamentals down pretty well now I’m just learning side spin and it was very confusing, but this video made me understand much more, thanks dr. Dave.
And don’t get discouraged as this system will suck on the very beginning since YOU are trying to break bad habits and change your way of thinking and play. Last night I’ve played one of the top players in my company, we exchanged punches here and there, and I’ve lost a few games when trying to adapt to this new method, but overall I gave him a hard time and we pretty much ended up tied and tired at the end. Another player that i didn’t know was a pool shark before, and made a living off of it, lost two games and left with a broken heart, and I thank my success to content like this and kind people as Dr. Dave. I’m buying one of his systems every paycheck until I get them all. I don’t plan to play for money as it is not fun anymore but a tournament may be in the far future. On the beginning There will be lots of miss outs until it becomes natural to the player to compensate without thinking about it, like Dr. Dave said on the video. I’ll use the two ball beside the pocket to train it today as it seems almost impossible to be done when you hear about it but it’s clear on the video that the system will work if you understand it. After all, Dr. Dave is human, right Dr. Dave? Lol
I like the way he summarize this video. Top player doesn't have to do this because they have their instincts. This is rather a quick solution to improve and explanation for us.
Thanks. I'm glad you liked it. FYI, I have more videos and advice dealing with using sidespin effectively here: billiards.colostate.edu/tutorial/sidespin/ Check them out.
I've been playing pool in leagues for 3 years now and reading/ watching your information since I started. I actually play out of matchups here in Fort Collins. There were a lot of players who offered advice along the way (the majority bad.)You've helped me beat people that have been playing for 30 plus years that stomped me years ago. I'm still not as good as I want to be, but I'm way better than I would have ever been without all of the information you provided! Recommend you to anyone that serious about pool. Look forward to one of your classes in the future!
This is my final knowledge to really master the game. I am a fairly advance player, but i was still strugling when i have to use spin. I am gonna practice those drills. Thanks a lot Dr. Dave. You the man.
DrDaveBilliards Thanks, it helps alot, but correct if i am wrong. If i apply the calibration with bhe and fhe acording to the shot distance and speed, do i have to change my aiming line? I remember u said in the video to aim thin for outside english and aim thick for inside english. So if use the calibration, can i just aim as if i am not using any english at all with no compensation?
The BHE/FHE automatically compensates for squirt and swerve. In other words, it automatically creates the right amount of thin aim for outside and the thick aim for inside. Now, sometimes you also need to adjust your original line of aim for throw, per the info at the bottom of the page here: billiards.colostate.edu/tutorial/throw.html
i have not seen this video before and i thought it was great. i have read your book twice now and i believe it is the best instructional book i have read and i have read at least 6 others.
Thank you Dr. Dave! I always learn so much from your videos, and I love the thoroughness of your explanations. I have needed this topic demystified for a while - and this video really did that. I'm looking forward to trying to apply these concepts to my game, and I think if I even achieve a mediocre grasp of this that I will be much improved as a player!
Love this. I bought a table a few months ago so I could practice all I wanted and improve my game. Well my aim has gotten better but my leaves were still bad. I just watched this video went to my pool room and practiced with BHE and there was instant improvement. Up until now I have always only used FHE and had to compensate by changing my aim point. A lot of times id use the correct english but still not get the desired affect. But using a combination of BHE and FHE the cue ball is actually going in the area I want it. I can not THANK YOU enough for publishing videos like this. Please keep them up.
After watching , have no idea how I ever made a short using Power English . most likely I hydroplane the Felt , so it has no drift over my aim . Great advice here :)
In its simplest terms, without getting into BHE and FHE, this what it appears Dr. Dave is demonstrating in this video. SQUIRT: Right English causes the cue ball (CB) to squirt a little to the left and vice versa when using left English. So when using left or right English you have to adjust your aim slightly to hit the OB where you want to hit it taking into consideration the squirt. If using right English, you have to aim to hit the OB slightly more to the right because the CB is going to squirt slightly to the left. If using left English, to account for a little squirt to the right, you have to aim a little further to the left of the impact point since the CB is going to squirt to the right a little. How much adjustment depends on many factors and takes practice. It’s important to note that you get less squirt with a hard hit, more squirt with a slow hit. SWERVE: This is the effect of the CB staying off line because of Squirt. A slight amount of squirt will come back on line in about 3-5 feet, similar to a massé shot. If the CB and the OB are within a few feet of each other, there is not enough distance for the cue ball to return to the impact line and the squirt will have a greater effect. However, the way most good cues are made today, squirt is minimal, often less than an 1/8” and often has almost no effect on a shot unless of course you are executing a massé shot with extreme english and a raised cue. ENGLISH INDUCED THROW: This is the effect of English on the CB throwing the OB a little one way or the other. Right English will throw the OB slightly to the left and left hand English will throw the OB slightly to the right. A slower shot or with more English applied will cause the OB to be thrown off line more. This is called “English induced throw.” CUT (OR IMPACT) INDUCED THROW: This is the effect of the CB impacting the OB and, because of friction between the two balls, the CB tends to push the OB in the direction the CB will go after impact. If cutting the OB to the left, the CB goes to the right and pushes the OB slightly offline to the right. Shiny, clean, new balls will produce very little “cut or impact induced throw” since there is almost no adhesive effect between the balls. A little English, about ¼ tip, right English for a left cut and left English for a right cut, reduces the amount of friction between the CB and the OB by causing a sliding, rolling effect, which reduces the amount of “cut or impact induced throw.” Also the English on a cut shot tends to produce a little “English induced throw” which counters the “cut or impact induced throw” and that brings the cue ball back in line. The thinner the cut, the less impact induced throw. It seems that the “cut or impact induced throw” is the greatest at about a 30⁰ to 45⁰ cut. For a very thin cut or for a full on shot, there is no “impact induced throw.”
Decent overview, but some of your details are inaccurate. FYI, complete info for all of the effects (with supporting resources) can be found here: billiards.colostate.edu/threads/aiming_compensation.html#English_effects
You're welcome. You might like this one too - SIDESPIN ... Everything You Need to Know: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6-vNQwD5WDw.html Enjoy!
Hi dave, Firstly thanks for all your videos. I wondered if you could do a video on “tracing”. It’s the technique that’s used to apply more side to the cueball on backstroke so that it scrapes the cueball to the side you imparted spin to , to counterbalance the deflection effect. It’s something pros do but there’s never any videos on it. Cheers
This is also called a "swoop" or "swipe" stroke, and sometimes "back-hand english." I have lots of info and several videos on this topic here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/stroke/swoop-swipe/ Check it out.
I notice this mathematically with this system I don’t need to buy LD shafts and still plays the same as LD shafts. And also when most people buy a new cue they need around a year to get a good feel and muscle memory change from their old cue to their new cue but with this system I can use any cue as my own cue after playing 2 racks or 30 shots to know how it plays out. Most people don’t share these things but thank you for sharing everyone this aim system. For me it’s shooting as the degree of deflection ( if the degree of deflection is 20 with straight center shot then I put my cue 20 degree of center left or right to make it point straight there’s still deflection technically but using that deflection) to go straight towards where I wanted. Sorry for long comment for those people that already know these stuffs.
True. The SAWS system can be used with any cue and with any bridge length. However, LD shafts do offer some slight advantages, per the info here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue/low-squirt/#advantages
It would make for a great video if you could do a POV video on the cueball and where you aim with and without english to make an object ball. I need to get to the next step in my pool game. I can run racks with my own methods but actually seeing your POV on running a rack would be great insight. Thanks and keep up the great work. I look forward to your videos!
You show us all these awesome majestic strikes on ball but sometimes you break and need some more in depth plays. If you could make a video on how to play balls after the break that would be great. Your videos are awesome and I watch all the time I just think it would be a great tutorial on how to move across the table after break and I believe you have the best of judgement
This topic is covered in great detail on VEEB-I: drdavebilliards.com/videos/8-ball/disc-i/ And lots of related videos and advice is available here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/strategy/8-ball/
Excellent coverage on this topic Dr. Dave. In reviewing the diagram at 12:20 in the video, the upper/right portion shows the "thrown OB direction", "throw angle", and "the impact line of centers", I believe that the dashed line for the "thrown OB direction" is shown on the wrong side of the "impact line of centers" line. For the cut shot to the left, the mechanical throw would be to the right, due to the balls skidding together momentarily, prior to separating. That's why the "Gearing English" (right English induces a spin-throw to the left), would cancel the mechanical throw. I enjoy your excellent work. Please let me know if you agree on my observations here. Kind Regards.
If the amount of outside spin is greater than the "gearing" amount, the throw is in the SIT direction. If it is less, the throw is in the CIT direction. For more info, see: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/sidespin/outside-gearing/
Not to preach to the choir, but when you freeze-frame your first two English shots in the video, you can see your cue swing to the right and left respectively. There would be less throw if you focused more on keeping the cue moving straight after contact with the cue ball. I like to use a closed bridge in these situations for this reason.
I'm pretty sure my stroke was fairly straight on these shots. I think the video camera perspective effects can sometimes be misleading because the view is at an angle. Even if my follow through did veer off a little, I don't think this had an effect of the CB direction (because the CB was already off the tip).
This video might require multiple viewings. It contains a lot of info. The resources links in the video description are also help. They contain many more useful videos, illustrations, and articles.
Thank you again, Dr Dave. Lots to digest in this episode. 👍🏼 At 13:48 I had to laugh. *Some* opponents might love the pointing out of their errors on your tshirt, but I'm pretty sure many of them would see it differently. 😉
Agreed. I was just kidding with the shirt pointing thing. There is a lot to digest, but if you want to learn more, much more info is available here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/sidespin/aim/compensation/
Hi dave, I am really glad to watch this amazing video about how to aim, I am from Peru and I am trying to figure out the way to translate all the video, in spanish for teach this method in my Pool Academy, You are a great player and very methodical in my opinion, I was wondering if you could help me at least with subtitles or something, To transmit your knowledge to future generations here and in Latino America, Greetings Dr!
Thanks! And you're welcome!! FYI, you can find a lot more info dealing with various aspects of sidespin under the topics here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/sidespin/ Enjoy!
Wow, where were these videos about 13 years ago?! I printed out a huge book I bought online back then showing everything I've seen you talk about so far (This is my 4th video watching you tonight randomly cause I got the billiard bug back in my system) and I just had to basically figure it out myself. If I had one critique, I would say maybe slow it down just a little on the explanations while shooting. Maybe even show the shot again just a little slower (basing this sentence off the other 3 videos I have seen tonight.). I've found myself calling the next shot on some of your stuff, but newcomers might find it a little hard to grasp. Regardless, great videos sir!
bigred1022 Thanks for the feedback and suggestions. I’m glad you like my stuff. If you want a more thorough and slower presentation with many more examples, see my full-length instructional videos here: drdavebilliards.com/
Thanks. I’m glad you liked it. FYI, more info and many more videos on this topic can be found via the links here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/sidespin/aim/
This all depends on your cue. I have a M.D. that has zero throw. It doesn't matter what English you put on the cue ball you have to hit the spot on the ball to pocket, even at harder hits. My other cue a JC you can hit other spots on the object ball and English will pocket the ball. (With outside English and hard hits each cue doing the same shot has 2 different impact spots on the object ball to pocket.) My low deflection cue is easy to play with you just hit the spot, however there are spots in every shot that are harder to reach because I can only hit one small area on the object ball to pocket it. The high deflection cue is harder to play with because the spot to hit and pocket the object ball changes with extreme English and cue speed. I prefer a high deflection cue, it's easier to play shape and you can do wild things with the cue ball, however they do not jump or masse' as well as low deflection cues. (+25,000 hrs and 35 years of play under my belt) Dr Dave is this also what you have found???
Sidepsin aim correction depends on the cue, cloth conditions, shot speed and distance, spin type and amount, bridge length, grip position, and cue elevation. That's why the BHE/FHE Calibration Procedure is so useful. It automatically takes everything into account. Every cue has CB deflection (even the 12.4 Revo). You can test and compare any cues or shafts using the procedure in the following video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AwytGsNl2vc.html I prefer an LD shaft because the advantages listed here: billiards.colostate.edu/threads/cue.html#low_squirt
Incredible that's exactly what I've been telling people for years now about cues. I have learned (taught myself) how to apply extreme side spin and shoot the cue ball in a strait line with relatively low swearve. It's like a draw shot just sideways. I have proven there's low swerve by shooting long range shots between pool cues. However I also have so much table time that I can slow the shot down and it curves so wide it looks like a masse shot. I've been told by good players that my table presence is very intimidating. It's kind of funny because when I play someone better than me (fargo) they start out freewheeling on me running out playing like a champion, I just weather the storm, because experience tells me with in 30 minutes there game will get so bad they will fall apart. Some even miss ball in hand shots there so rattled by my stroke. I hate it, it costs my money... you have many hours on a table also where were you 20 years ago when I stood in the pool hall hitting balls over and over trying to teach myself these technical aspects, it would have been so much easier to watch your videos. I consider you a pool hall junkie/veteran. So thank you doc for your service to the pool community. Your an awesome guy.
Deep Divers Thank you. If you haven’t seen all of my recent “Top 10” videos yet, check them out here: ru-vid.com/group/PLH9d4KFY28XtrkjqZMKZc3uB4Y5sWCjW6
I highly appreciate your videos...just my own preference not to use back-hand-english as my grip hand touch my hip when using outside english...it is easy for me to compensate and shift cue parallel, especially for drag shots where deflection and throw compensate automatically.
The BHE is more effective if you shift your hips and knees with the cue so the cue-body relationship remains fixed. That's how I do it in the video. Concerning "deflection and throw compensating automatically," this unfortunately is not the case for shots of all speeds, distances, and cut angles.
Great video. Can't believe the CB is squirting that much with a Revo. That's about the same as what I get with a Non-laminated ferrule-less shaft from my cuemaker. Interesting.
The Revo is definitely an LD shaft. It might look like a lot of squirt in the video because of the fast speed and slick cloth, both of which limit the amount of swerve, but it is much smaller than what most cues/shafts would produce. Do a similar test with your cue if you want a better comparison.
Are you doing the shots at the same distance as in my video, and with maximum sidespin like I was? Obviously, shot distance and spin amount makes a big difference. Cloth conditions and cue elevation are also factors for the combined effects of squirt and swerve. If you really want to compare two cues, you need to do the tests one after another with the same shooter on the same table shooting the same shot at the same distance, speed, and sidespin amount.
The most laughable products ever introduced to the billiard world is the " low deflection " shaft and kamui chalk. In my no disrespect to n e one intended and unwanted opinion.
Uncle Wreckum Like you, I don’t see much value in “premium” chalks like Kamui, per the info here: billiards.colostate.edu/threads/chalk.html#comparison However, I do see value in LD shafts, per the info here: billiards.colostate.edu/threads/cue.html#advantages
Well, Dr. Dave, you’ve answered the one question I had and always afraid to ask! How in the hell they aim with spin? I’ve always thought one should move the cue parallel to the actual position as tricking the front only sounded unnatural. Got yourself a new subscriber! Thank you for the videos and the simple mathematical way you use to teach us! Peace
FYI, more videos and resources on this topic can be found here: billiards.colostate.edu/tutorial/sidespin/ and here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/sidespin/aim/compensation/ Enjoy!
@@DrDaveBilliards wow, thank you so much for your help! I’m not by far an expert or pro, but videos you’ve posted and also some other RU-vid channels like yours have made a huge impact on my playing. I’ve been though living hell during this pandemic, money wise, but now my company opened up their pool tables for us again and after all of these months, just by watching you guys, I’ve been more respected than ever! Thank you so much to all of you, specially those like yourself who personally answer our comments! If you have any tools of expertise on identifying McDermott cues, it would be very important as we all try to improve and buy better cues but not much info to protect us against dishonest sellers on the used market. I look at some and can’t see them apart from very expensive ones but I’m sure there’s a way to spot a mixed breed by a trained eye but it may be an idea for a video since I haven’t found anyone else doing it. Thank you so very much for replying to my comment! Good luck with your channel and I’ll keep appreciating your videos while dreaming to be able to someday be part of a torment! Happy holidays!
@@roadshowautosports You're welcome. I aim to swerve. :) Concerning identifying cues, I'm not much of an expert in that regard. I just play with the equipment I've had for a long time, and I don't change often, and I don't collect. The player is much more important than the cue.
😩 learning English is giving me headaches. I don't know if I ever gonna master it. But thanks for the lessons Dr. Dave... All the way from Mozambique 🇲🇿
Great lesson,, I think this is the next thing I had to master to keep improving. I like your back hand pivot for English, that would increase consistency.
BHE alone works sometimes, but is not adequate over a wide range of shot distances and speeds. For more info: see: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/sidespin/aim/compensation/
@@DrDaveBilliards seperating the bhe from the front in to percentage should lead to more accuracy in a systematic way. I think this is the best video for people that have been playing for a year or more to get rid of inconsistent shots.
@@DrDaveBilliards right, I need systems to work on one thing at a time. You are going through in to important info that was just not available when I was playing. This is real brake through stuff if you ask me.
@@DrDaveBilliards there is a lot hear, after you get through stance, eyes alignment, stroke, And basic aiming, you have to master this set of variables. Nice group of information in this video. You really worked out some important things.
Dr Dave my bridge length is 4 inches on a 3ft shot. I have the 4 inches marked on the shaft, now all I have to do is slide my bridge hand back to where I like it and your system will work? Thank you Dr.Dave
The system works for any bridge length, assuming that's the bridge length you used during the calibration procedure. You can also change the bridge length (with a straight slide) after the BHE/FHE pivots.
This is a revelation! I've been using what I thought was a comprehensive book of pool shots to practice, and it says very little about squirt and what to do about it. I'm looking at your online resources now. Quick reaction (clearly from my ignorance) it seems like sidespin on a long, slow shot would not be very effective, because the sidespin has "worn out" and the cue ball is essentially rolling straight before it hits the object ball? Thanks for the video. I'm excited to start learning and practicing!
You can use sidespin on a long slow shot. You just need to apply more spin to counteract the loss of spin. The rate of spin loss also depends on conditions. On a really fast and slick cloth, the sidespin stays on longer.
My game has improved so much from these videos. Quick question Dr. Dave: when using BHE, do we adjust our body so that the stick remains under the chin and in the shot line? Or should the back hand just pivot without the body moving even if it puts the cue out of original center chin / vision alignment? Thank you for all your advice and content!
You were doing well with intuition probably. Now you're overthinking. Me too haha. "Okay.. compensate for swerve. Turn it this way for deflection. Factor in the spin induced through and cut induced throw..... Miss".
Nice!... the Nerdy stuff is important part of pool.. the science explains how it works.(logic and priniples) .. the visual intuitive explains how it's done..(feel,experience) 👍🇳🇿
Vahn Dealo This video includes lots of info, and I certainly didn’t expect all viewers to totally absorb everything with a single view. I’m glad you eventually found the video helpful.
I know what you mean. That's why I provide links in my video descriptions where you can find additional supporting videos and information. There is fine balance between keeping RU-vid videos short while still providing interesting content and examples. FYI, the topics in this particular video are covered in great detail (over 1 hour, 22 minutes) on my full-length instructional video: "System for Aiming With Sidespin (SAWS)." For more info, see: drdavebilliards.com/saws/
why not ! - If you use Roku or Chrome Cast, you can use your RU-vid App on your phone as a companion for viewing Comments. I doubt TVs will support web surfing.
60% FHE and 40% BHE means there is a distance from center point to the spin point you intend to strike for example if the side spin and the center is 10mm away then move 6mm with your bridge hand only while not moving your grip hand (in the video that will be the lighter black spot) and then move your grip hand left to move the tip right without moving your bridge hand the tip should move 4mm (in the video that will be the darker black spot) and now you will understand the video from 6:30 time stamp. Like Dr. Dave I also play billiards because I want to know the mathematics and physics of the things happening on the billiards table.
Dr Dave please shed some light. I need an answer from a scientific/physicist point of view. Example: You hit the cue ball using a stun shot with maximum sidespin (left or right), and you contact the object ball absolutely straight, without any cut angle. Why is it that the object ball will be thrown off in the opposite direction of the sidespin (left side on the CB obviously throws the OB to the right), but the cue ball will stay in place and keep spinning? Why isn't the equal counterforce of the sidespin also moving the cueball in the opposite direction of the throw imposed on the object ball. I hope I made sense, thank you for your time.
If you hit the OB square with left sidespin, the OB will be thrown to the right, and the CB will drift to the left (due to the equal and opposite force). If you cut the OB a hair to the left, it will be thrown straight, and the CB will spin in place (if the equal and opposite throw force on the CB is the right amount to cancel the sideways motion that would occur due to the cut).
At 0:38, where he’s demonstrating left squirt/deflection from the right side spin, you can clearly see that his stick comes off to the left after contacting the cue. I know deflection is a real effect, but in this demo is the cue ball’s behavior also influenced by whatever force is driving the shaft to the left?
Really love your tutorials. But how do you calculate how much spin to get to the position you would like the cueball to go after contact? Any videos for that?
The best way to learn how much spin to use for different types of shots is to first know about all spin effects: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6-vNQwD5WDw.html and practice drills like the "clock system:" billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-ball-control/clock-system/ and target drills: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/drill/target/
I never play shot using side. I just think it makes the shot so much harder. I really need to start learning to play with side. How can you improve your temperament?and how can you learn to play under a lot of pressure?
Dr. Dave steve here, my grandson ask me this question about a short bridge length using bhe. I told him I would have you explain this to him. His bridge length on a 6ft shot is 10 inches. When he has a 3ft shot his length is about 4 or 5 inches. Can you explain to him how he can change his short bridge length longer he feels uncomfortable with such a short length on a 3 ft shot. I told him you said once you have your 3ft length he can just slide his hand back and shoot the shot. Is that correct? He wants to know why we have to be bothered with the 3ft bridge if we’re going to slide on hand back. I said ask the Doc!
I recommend using the same bridge length for every shot, and just vary the stroke length. Give your grandson the following "homework:" billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bridge/length/ billiards.colostate.edu/faq/speed/advice/ billiards.colostate.edu/faq/sidespin/aim/ Tell him I said: Good luck with your game!
Hi Dr. Dave! Thanks for always providing the most reliable online resources for pool! I was looking at the BHE/FHE calibration drill document, but I'm a little confused about the speed definitions. Where exactly would I be hitting from the head-string for each speed? And what do you mean by "1/4," "1/2" and "3/4" stroke?
Here is the info from the page (billiards.colostate.edu/resources/BHE-FHE_calibration.pdf): Speed definitions (hitting from the head string): • “slow” - ¼ stroke off 1 rail back to the head string • “medium” - ½ stroke off 2 rails to the center string • “fast” - ¾ stroke off 3 rails to the foot string You should from the head string hitting straight down table and back. The 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 are the stroke lengths (as fraction of full bridge length) I use to create these speeds, but this might be different for others. The important things are the distances traveled by the CB (e.g., "off 1 rail back to the head string").
Dr.Dave predator revo what is the big difference between the 12.4 and the 12.9 I’m really leaning toward buying one. I play a 13mm now, but I’m leaning toward the 12.4 I figure it will be my last stick, is there a big difference in the shaft? I mean the 12.4 isn’t like shooting with a toothpick is it? Is it easy to get used to? You know between you and poolology videos my game has really taken off. Just the other day on a 9 ft table I made 7 out of 10 half ball spot shots and I cannot forget sharivari videos you guys have make all the difference in the world! Thank you steve
What I take from this and similar videos is that unless you have LOTS of time to practice using english, as well as having a very good memory, you should probably try to avoid using left and right english (especially if there's alcohol involved! LOL!) whenever possible (except perhaps on short easy shots) because of the complexity involved. Does anyone else agree?
@@GR-uc1gq Pros use whatever is required for a given shot. Sometimes that is a stop shot; other times, plain draw and follow get the job done; and some (not all) shots call for sidespin (english).
@@GR-uc1gq I think they try not to use side (left/right) english unless they have to for position (I could be wrong). Top or bottom is much safer. Besides, they are PROS and have practiced for thousands of hours to get where they are!
Dr Dave what video is the one where we’re your showing us a table with a diagram let’s say you want us to use top right English to send the cue around the table for shape on the next ball. Then in the next slid your showing a shot in the side pocket and it shows us what English to put on the cue so it hits the rail and kicks left for shape. There are about 10 or so different example of what type of English to put on the cue for shape. All the diagram table tops are a light green in color. I’ve been looking for ever. Thanks Steve
I have many more here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/drill/position/ and here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/drill/target/ and here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/drill/wagon-wheel/ Enjoy!
hi dr dave, im always confused, when you are using side, do you line up a center shot and then move your cue over, parallel to the original shot, or do you curve the cue to hit the ball off center. Also, when you follow through, I sometimes see cues fly out to the side. Do you want to hit straight through the ball?
I encourage you to watch this entire video again or multiple more times. The BHE/FHE pivots are done before the shot. Swooping/swiping the cue during the stroke is not recommended, per the info here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/stroke/swoop-swipe/
When you strike a cue ball with right English, the ball rotates left. So contacted with a cushion a ball rising left should bounce left but it bounces right
Not true. Hitting the right side of the ball imparts right (CCW) spin, which makes the CB deflect to the right (when looking into the cushion in the direction of CB travel). For illustrations and more information, see: billiards.colostate.edu/tutorial/sidespin/
dr Dave, the FHE looks tricky as you have to move the bridge hand. i always liked BHE as the bridge hand can stay stable. is there a way to just do all compensations with BHE techniques alone?
... yes, but only if you vary the bridge length based on shot distance and speed (and cue elevation). This is covered on SAWS: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/sidespin/aim/saws/
I found something very interesting on this topic recently. The way you deliver the cue will change the amount of swerve you'll get. If you accelerate through the cue ball holding onto the cue, it'll cause more swerve than if you release the cue at the cue ball (basically throwing it slightly). Whether or not you use this technique is up to you, but the reality is, a consistent stroke is needed for consistent swerve.
Besides cloth condition, the only things that affect the amount of swerve are cue tip contact point, cue elevation, and shot speed. If you change any of these things as a result of stroke change, swerve will be different. For more info, see: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/sidespin/aim/effects/
@@DrDaveBilliards, I know that's the current line of thinking, but I talked to the person who taught it to me (Amar Kang, fargorated ~768 last I checked, and a pro), and he was very aware of this result. He's the one who told me it was due to swerve, as when you drive the cue downwards, as all shots have elevation, it creates more swerve than the way a thrown cue will glance off the cue, not getting as much swerve. The difference may be small, but it is very small differences in swerve that will effect your results, as you very well know.
@@johnhoush4366 Again, if the acceleration changes anything about the stroke (tip contact point, cue elevation, speed at contact), the swerve will be different. However, stroke acceleration alone will not change the shot outcome (if everything else remains the same), per the info here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/stroke/type-and-quality/
Dr. Dave, how does side spin on the cue ball affect the cue ball path after it hits the target ball? Since the target ball gets deflected (SIT), the cue ball should deflect as well? Can you do a video on that please!
