This is an AWESOME video! You don't leave anything out, and don't waste time on anything that's not important. Thanks for the help. Got to go finish my pump now.
A well done video, my Goulds pump has deep grooves in the impeller shaft housing. I have lost pressure. Is the problem with the grooves? I use the pump for irrigation. thanks
Thanks for the how-to! I just pulled one of these out of service on 5/5/20 and installed an old J5S in its place temporarily while I figure out what the hell I (stupidly) did to the J10S. It's a "comedy of errors" sort of story... My submersible pump went bad last Saturday after a dozen years in service. The motor is kaput: common/run and common/start were both in the hundreds of megohms. Pretty cut and dried. So we went out and bought all the stuff we needed to change the damn thing out. While doing the changeout, I thought I heard water flowing back into the well through the now-vacated pitless adaptor. It wasn't (a check valve at the buried side of the pitless prevents it), but at that point in time I thought it was, so I closed the valves on the storage tank, which is hundreds of feet from the well head. 4+ hours later, I discovered that I had neglected to turn off the breaker for the J10S. That discovery came in the form of finding the J10S hot enough to cook on and making an obnoxiously loud buzzing noise not unlike the alarm on a septic system. After cooling down overnight, it still buzzed, so I knew I was screwed. If I am reading the service manual correctly, the winding resistances check out, so I think the trouble is in the impeller area (hence my finding your video), which is a relatively inexpensive fix and well worth getting a workhorse like the J10S back in service. Plus, it's the newer style pump with the white circuit board in the motor, so I can probably do a rebuild kit without also having to replace the front casing. But I will need to open it up to be sure. In the meantime, I had a spare J5S on hand (because what home owner doesn't keep spare jet pumps in their garage?), so I was able to clean that up and put it back in service. The sooner I can pull it back out the better, though. It's pretty weak compared to the J10S. That is, after all, why we replaced it after only 3 years. (17 years that pump sat in my garage waiting for its moment to shine! haha) I like the profile pic, by the way. "The Hermit" from "IV". One of the greatest albums of all time.
Hi Dave. Thanks for the comment and hope my video helped you in some way. Being in New Jersey with the COVID-19 lockdown, i used my plenty of spare time to make a few videos to help out with Spring time and turning pumps on in a lot of places.😄 Love Zeppelin 👍🏻
It seems that these J10S pumps have a back pullout design that allows you to rebuild the pump without having to disconnect it from the piping. Have you ever tried that? Thanks in advance
Nah, u have to disconnect piping to get front casing cover off to get at the impeller. No other way to get at impeller without moving front casing cover. Only thing you can remove from back with disturbing the piping is the motor only itself.. This is why you should use unions on your piping incase you have to work on the pump. Easy to take apart in the future……
Wrong. You do not have to disconnect piping. Four bolts will disconnect the motor/ impeller housing from the front inlet casting. Just have to disconnect the wiring if necessary.
Thanks very much. Is this similar to a stay rite irrigation pump? I bought a home with a lake sprinkler system and it has the Stay Rite but the motor just hums n i think the pump is rusted inside and I need to take it apart. Thank great video.
If the motor is just humming without pumping it most likely needs a prime and possibly repair check valves on the suction side. If it’s pumping but grinding, then that’s the bearings
I have the same pump mine keeps jamming up and then won’t spin I take the impeller off put it back to together and it works for a while then it jams again what is causing this?
My pump ran out of water and the impeller and the impeller cover melted. I took the cover off and used some light sand paper to try and smooth the the surfaces. But when I put the impeller cover back on it still keeps the motor from turning. Do I definitely need to replace the impeller? And the Impeller Cover? Or can I fix it by sanding? Maybe the heat from running all day permanently warped the impeller?
My motor seems to be frozen. I removed the casing like you said, put a socket on the impellor/motor end, it rotates one direction, I believe counter clockwise but wont move in the other direction. The motor does nothing when I turn it on. Any thoughts? Thanks.
What about the JRS10 goulds pump. I opened mines. it has a seal leak but it has a flat head screw in the center and boy is it hard. Any tips or tricks for that one?
Sorry no video on bearings. Goulds doesn’t offer motor bearings as a replacement part. You need a replacement motor. If you want to have bearing replaced , try an electric motor repair shop or a pool supply. They use a lot of the same type of motors on pool filters. Good Luck. 😉 👍🏻
I believe the casing is thicker diameter on the new casings that use screws. You would have to line the guidevane up perfectly and you might have to use shorter screws.....Good Luck....
@@zeppone4045 Thanks.. I tore mine apart yesterday and I have a guidevane that is secured with 4 screws.. Looking closely it appears as though the case is tapped for both 3 and 4 screws.. I notice that the new guidevanes come with 3 screws? I have ordered the kit and we'll see what shows up.
Guide vane is Black plastic round piece that covers the rotating impeller. The impeller is the round smooth rotating piece. I said it backwards when i first removed it in video. You will see yellow print on screen explaining this. I made this video in 1 take….I dont edit….✍️
Its just corrosion causing it to be stuck. Just take a flat blade screw driver and tap all around the seam. It will loosen up. When you open the seem a little, spray some wd-40 and it will come apart. When two different metals are in contact and exposed to a common electrolyte, one of the metals experiences accelerated corrosion while the other is protected. This type of accelerated corrosion between dissimilar metals is referred to as galvanic corrosion.
If u really watched the video u would have seen that i inserted a message telling everyone that……and it wasnt at 1:55. This is why i make my videos very specific….
GUIDE-VANE ... OLD to NEW ... if you need to UPGRADE from the OLD to the NEW ... SNAP-IN to BOLT-IN ... Couldn't a homeowner MARK & DRILL & TAP the required HOLES ???
6.5 min to explain something that should've taken 2 min max. By the way, the capacitor will not electrocute you, it'll give you a nasty bite but will not come close to killing you unless there's still power going to the pump.
Better to be specific and take your time. You can always fast forward. As for Capacitor, i am giving a general warning ⚠️ about electricity. No one likes a shock.⚡️⚡️⚡️😬