Coming across your videos a bit late, but love them! What I love about them is where your coming from, i.e sharing your knowledge and making speaker builds as accessible as possible, and also absolute focus on quality and helping people get the best outcome! Really really great. And thank you!
Hi Pete, I just came across your youtube channel and I am totally impressed with your presentations and I'm glad they are on the long side. As I plan to do the Encores in the future and some other sound projects, your videos have been a big help in my decision making. Thanks Pete, job well done sir.
Just stumbled on this video. just a thought on fibre glass for damping, I had a set of speakers with forward firing ports and I used to play them loud enough to feel the air form them 8 feet away. so you could be breathing fibreglass and or filling your room with it. Good informative video by the way.
I really appreciate your extra long highly detailed videos. Certainly it’s probably not for everybody but I’m not everybody so I really don’t care keep doing what you’re doing
Okey-dokey just completed listening to the whole video can’t watch it because I’m blind, however it is very inspiring and very inspirational and dude don’t sell yourself short, you have some awesome awesome knowledge to share and give to people and those who don’t need it tell him not to watch the dead gum video!
Thank you Peter. I was very concerned about this project but this video has completely eliminated any concerns about the NoRez cutting and installation. I think I will cut all of the materials before gluing and assembly and lay them against each piece just to get a better visual (idea) of placement (after cabinet assembly. Now, if I can gain the same level of confidence regarding the up-graded cross over assembly? Not there yet but I will be. This was excellent and I enjoy your commentary throughout.
You could put together 1 cabinet without the back and video the process from the back as you install the no rez through the speaker hole.... just a suggestion but great video as always...👍
Save some No Rez. At 21,45 Peter remove the foam. By some car bitumen instead for the bottom and front panel and save No Rez for the rest of the cabinet. Peter does a great job. Keep up the videos, so we can be educated. 👍
@@carbidetooth Dear Peter. Thank you for your answer. I have found bitumen that does not smell. With adhesive. No Rez in the rest of the cabinet and then some glass fibre behind the woofer and I’m home free!
I bought the NX Studio Monitor flat pack and I was thinking of installing the No-Rez before assembling the enclosure... Would it be a good idea to place some No-Rez around the drivers on the front baffle, or is that not advisable?
Clyde, I'm but the messenger here, not a speaker designer. I have to believe that if it was a concern Danny at GR Research would offer guidelines as to your assertion. Perhaps you should contact him.
It's my understanding the foam counters the displacement of the damping layer. GR Research has a video that explains their design (kind of) Whether it's true or not, IDK.
Never too much detail!! I am a true novice woodworker. Do you have a pretty exhaustive list of equipment, tools, etc. I need to accomplish this kit? I want to start with the X-LS and progress to the open baffle subwoofer, hopefully, if the assembly of this one would go well. Thanks.
Basic speaker assembly doesn't require a lot of tools. Some clamps, a router & 2 or 3 cutters. This assumes you're assembling from precisely cut flat pack. Watch the last half of this video and you can see what I use: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--cPJ0oQ68lw.html The long version ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5n3ZYGnEjgE.html
I have very big box 3-ways. Even with the bracing and my giant crossover I have figured on 6 sheets to get 100% coverage. Is that necessary? or could I get away with less by just covering the key areas? I already have $300 into crossover, a 4 pack takes me to $500+. They are only $1200 speakers. It's not really about the money, I don't mind spending it, I just don't want to waste it. Best No Rez video I have found, way more informative than Danny's. Thanks. (not knocking Danny, he does a good job)
100% coverage is not required for panel damping. Cover the biggest open areas between bracing and you'll be fine. Remember that NoRez is two things in one. Panel damping and box stuffing. One can accomplish same functionality using individual products as well.
@@carbidetooth Thanks, my main goal is to dampen and I don't want to alter the speaker too much, just clean em' up. The side panels are 36" × 20" so it is a must in my eyes. In the past I have used carpet padding and it seams to have a damping effect, but you either have to glue it or staple it. Listening to others, it may not even be effective for my purpose. What would be an optimal alternative? I like the idea of a single product with no gluing, that's why I like the no rez idea. It seems to me the benefits could outweigh the costs. Thanks again.
Hi Peter; What influences having the cross support from cover to cover inside the box, is just to give it more stability or does something influence the sound. a greeting
Tying the sides together with the cross brace lends rigidity to the cabinet. In theory a more ridgid and integrated cabinet will result in reduced resonance.
Is it actually beneficial to add this? Every measurement I've seen shows that foam in cabinets absorb too much of the low frequencies or muddy the lower mids. But these are designed to require that for a flatter response?
Yes, it is beneficial. Is it night and day game changer kind of thing? No. It's yet another step towards optimizing the design. One can use other box stuffing and panel damping. I'm told by Danny Richie, the designer, that the foam on NoRez has no detrimental "absorption" effect on low frequencies inside the cabinet. I can't speak to your specific experiences.
Dan, I have considered it...for about 30 minutes! The way to do it would be with an oscillating tangential knife. That's a many thousand dollar attachment I doubt I could ever recover the cost of. Cutting it manually isn't all that difficult, nor does it have to be pretty or accurate to be effective.
Glad I stuck on to the end...I’ve already received two pair from you (my first speaker build ever - attempting first laminate as well!). I was planning on making mistakes then using the first pair in my shop. This shop will not usually be heated (New Hampshire). I wonder how the Norez will hold up...after installed??
Peter, I don't think it'd be affected much at all. Once applied the stickum is going to do its job and then it's a done deal...almost forever. Now if one were to fill with liquid nitrogen, the story might change...
Peter, I appreciate your time and effort in putting these videos together. And, as possible kindred spirits, I might challenge you with my OCD and propensity to talk on-and-on. It is what is and we are who we are. I would also like to tell you how much I appreciate your comments on "additional work". I myself am not far removed from the arena of CNC; I have worked in CAD for the past 30+ years in the residential field. If I could count (and bank) on the number of times I've heard or been asked, " It's just on the computer, you could simply blah, blah, blah". In fact I heard it about an hour before typing this message. So, I would like to ask, could tweak the code, and cut out .................just kidding!!! I do have two quick questions: 1)What is your experience with speaker stands? Materials, construction, etc.? During a phone call with Danny, he simply stated he makes them out of MDF all the time. Stands will actually be a big hurdle to complete a system, as they will be in my office. I would hate to invest in the time, materials, etc. for a pair of X-LS, to then place them on subpar stands. 2) Have you ever worked with shellac as a finish? And, I mean the good stuff, flakes in alcohol. For an X-LS finish I'm thinking raw wood with a clear shellac. Amber or garnet might be nice too. I'm working on simple. I could unearth my SawStop, get the drill press situated and connect my dust-collection. Which will happen, hopefully, some day soon. However, I could never match your work! Keep it up. Stay safe. And, Thank You!!
1. The speaker stands I have are a pair of heavy steel Osiris bought long ago. I think the key to good stands is a lot the same as speaker boxes...sturdy and well damped. With many stands, one can fill some portion with sand or other damping material. If replacing, I'd probably build some columnar shape out of MDF with a cavity for sand. Style to your liking. 2. I use shellac a lot, but not much as a topcoat. It can be a barrier coat when applying dissimilar finishes. I also spray jigs and fixtures with it as a fairly durable and quick drying sealer. I'm kinda jaded when it comes to finishes though, preferring solvent based topcoats like lacquer and conversion varnish.
Peter, Sean @ Skiing Ninja sent me a few years ago a cut list for No Res for X-LS's but Danny said just measure. My cabs are stock retail X-LS ones. Can I BUY that cut list you have sitting there??? I know its verified!!! Thanks!
Brian, the documents are free for the downloading via the link in description. It was drawn specifically for my version so it may not work exactly with what you have, but should get you close.
@@carbidetooth Hmmm yeah I will be handing someone everything to mod my stock X-LS's and just want to make sure the info is accurate... I will grab it and see if I can make it work... Thanks!!
Steve, one sheet will do two cabinets if you're thrifty. The method I show uses 1.25 sheets. See the downloadable sheet template for a graphic illustration.
Cutting NoRez is a bitch. If you can get your pieces looking like that on your first try, you are a magic craftsman. I put only one set of these speakers together, and I tried all sorts of snips,and blades none cut well. The pre-cut cabinets were nice but you really do need a router with a trim bit to take off the extra material at the edges. And if you order all the extra crossover parts, the little crossover board provided is a bit small to hold it all. If I did another, I'd cut one out of pegboard. That said, I'd buy again.
I've used a sharp utility knife successfully. Sometimes standing on 1x or 2x straight edge to compress foam while I cut. Probably not something you want to do on the dining room table, though! The crossover board I send is sized to be just shy of the adjacent NoRez when installed. It's a snug fit, but doable even with upgrades. Mike Lundy posted some good photos in the referenced thread on Audio Circle.
@@carbidetooth Did you get that cutting to work first try? AudioCircle may have useful information, but until you make three posts you can't search it, so it's useless to new kit buyers. Did the picture you refer to include the extra tweeter capacitor?
"No rez is meant for thin panels such as automotive doors. It's not really going to do anything for a braced wooden cabinet. If you think it helped, it's more likely expectation bias, since one rarely builds a box with and one without to compare." - My thoughts as well...money wasted. With proper bracing, and damping material, Norez is a waste of resources..."No. It's needed when the enclosure can't be braced, like a car door. They'll tell you that it's needed, but they are trying to sell it, and you wouldn't buy it if they didn't make that claim." - This quote is from Billfitzmaurice. " one rarely builds a box with and one without to compare" In this field, we trust measurements not opinions or ears....You say in this video you say "I can't attest to the effectiveness of that".....Do yourself a favor... buy a measurement mic and learn Room Eq wizard at the very least. That is minimal required equipment for a legit speaker designer. Add a Dayton DATS system to be even more decisive.
DR. NNOO, thanks for watching. I’d like to address your quotes and assertions a bit. I don’t claim expertise in the acoustics arena although I do have some practical experience. Please accept this response as counterpoint to your comments, not an invitation to debate. • NoRez is a specific aggregate of two materials. A high mass damping layer and a foam layer that acts as box stuffing. Perhaps they work to enhance each other’s properties, I don’t know. It’s my understanding that GR Research has this product made to their specification for the task at hand, which is speaker boxes. • There’s a clearly audible difference between a box or panel with NoRez applied and one without. That alone would suggest that it changes the resonant qualities of that to which it’s applied. I’d be happy to send you test samples if you’d like to see and measure for yourself, provided you live in conus. Email me: carbidewing@gmail.com • I believe my statement was” I can’t attest to the veracity of that”. Referring specifically to the claims Acousta-Stuf makes… a different product than NoRez. • Honestly, when someone comes at me with “do yourself a favor”, I interpret it as being less about a genuine desire to enhance my knowledge, and more about validating the opinion of the author. My aim in making the video wasn’t to challenge people’s way of thinking, but rather to assist in a process where people had indicated uncertainty on the procedure.
What is the best way to test it? Mic in Port or in front of woofer w REW sweep? what would you be looking for in the graft / Test? ,,, One test is to feel how much vibration you feel on the outside of the speaker when playing music?
Hahaha, norez is an expensive waste of money. It hardly damps the cabinet at all. You should of bought bitumen visco-elastic damping pads, and if you need to, you can then use acoustic foam over the bitumen visco-elastic damping pads.
Shouldn't be breathing in material should't be using a circular saw highly toxic so is MDF probably get banned in the future why don't you cut it with a guillotine paper cutter or make one on the side of your bench couple of pieces of Steel 4mm thick 1 screw to the bench 1 as the cutter a spring Bolt and handle on the end, make both cutting surfaces like a scissor 20 degrees slope. Don't like the foam anyway it's not a good idea, what's the size of cell do you know! and it's compliance is it stiff or soft you got a figure. Bracings wrong as well should never be centred move it down just where the cut-out for the woofer would be and two-third roll front to back. No you want to block the port having fibre stuffing is better to have it block the port flow, the port tuning shouldn't be an issue if it's only a small amount, ideally having a stretched membrane behind the driver it's better. Sorbothane sheet would be better than that stuff but is rather expensive covers a frequency from 10 to 30000 Hz what frequency does this stuff cover. The best fibre is natural wool fleece or recycled cotton can be used but not as good I don't think the multi-coloured stuff
