@@DavidG-bw7ep Yes David. Just allow them to dry before kids or pets are allowed back on the lawn. Check out this blog post: golfcourselawn.store/blogs/diy-lawn-care/pet-safe-lawn-care-products
@@RonHenry Thanks for the reply. Just installed some Bandera Bermuda and want to keep it nice and green. Going to follow your videos to maintain it nicely.
Good info Ron! As a lawn care newbie, and a cheapskate as well, I’m slowly working liquids into my program. Even so, my burmuda looks better than it ever has. Thanks for all your help. You are greatly appreciated
I have a Tall Fescue and I had sod installed over 3 years ago, I went all organic and I just wasn't get any real growth, lucky to get a 1/4 bag in a plastic deck Honda lawnmower. I went with the Country Course Blend 16-0-8, I did the spoon feed program as seen on Ron's video, I have tremendous growth, I just mowed my lawn, it filled the grass catcher. Late March 800 sq fit yard.
Great info as always Ron. I do like to incorporate a bit of both depending on the time of the year and the lawn needs at any given time. Especially with most liquid ferts , at least ones i use have more of the micros / iron and stuff like kelp etc that my granular options i often use like Humic Max don't really have. To me both types compliment each other when used properly, especially at lower rates. With the top growth explosion us cool-season people get the next month or two ; which happens even without fertilizer. I especially like liquid ferts this time of year to better control and shorten the time of that crazy top growth which imo is much easier to do with liquid ferts this part of the season compared to granular. Even as a multiple mow per week person not easy to stay on top of it the next two months. But both types of fert have their role and i do use a combination of both.
@@RonHenry i do use PGR end of May through the summer months. I always tended to let the lawn wake up fully and thrive a bit out of dormancy before using it each season. But i could try moving it up a few weeks earlier than i normally do ; because May is an absolute nightmare. Even 3 mows a week hard to stay on top of it in May. so maybe i could try starting PGR in early May this season to try and get ahead of the growth surge.
Thank you Ron got the soil test results back. Instead of 15 sec then % by 128 oz. Easier just to add one gal of water and start the timer until empty same results? I got 1.53 sec per 1 gal or maybe that's wrong?
The pump tends to have trouble picking up fluid as levels get very low. There's many ways of doing it. The reason why I do it by timing 15 second intervals is it's easier to repeat.
Great videos👍🏻I have the cool season grass what do you recommend. Wish I knew how to post some pictures. I really enjoy the yard and grass. Just getting anxious
Hi Mark. To know the best fit for your lawn, getting a soil test is a great idea. You'll see in the product list under this video. The Complete 14-7-14 is a great fertilizer since it has a bit of everything. The Stress 12-0-24 is a good option for summer months when temperatures are higher and you're not wanting to push a lot of growth in your cool season grass. You can see them under this video or here: golfcourselawn.store/thegoodstuff Hope this helps.
@@RonHenry thank you for the quick response can’t wait for the new video. Keep up the great work! Our weather here outside Chicago has not been cooperating. But I will start with tenacity and some good fertilizer to take care of some bare spots. Thanks again.
Depends on your soil test results. Generally speaking, Humic Max and the carbon kit. You can select the products you need using this tool: golfcourselawn.store/pages/lawn-fertilization-program-calculator
That and more answered in the Q&A section for the 901C here: golfcourselawn.store/collections/lawn-fertilizers/products/release-901c%E2%84%A2-free-shipping :-)
@@RonHenry that makes sense, thanks. Love your content, although I'm not really a fan of short turf lawns I'm working towards a lush kbg lawn up here in Chicagoland
I have another question. Ok so i wanted to seed bare spots. Saw other videos and read on what to do. So my steps are i added soil that had fertilizer, then seed then topped with peat moss. But its been about 3 weeks now and i still have nothing sprouted. What did i miss or do wrong?
Depends on the type of product. Other than GreensPlus, the liquid fertilizers here don’t need to be watered in. golfcourselawn.store/collections/lawn-fertilizers
What starter fertilizer should I put down to a fresh seeded lawn? My soil test reads low nitrogen, high phosphorus and medium potassium. Just fyi I’m not seeded until May. And going to spread some potash for the high phosphorus
Been holding off alittle to apply my first app of granular. In Atlanta also, do you think I should apply or wait for more green up. 30-40ish% green right now
It's going to green up quickly from here on out Ptro. We have warm weather in the forecast so the lawn will wake up. I wouldn't wait to get started. Late March / early April is a good month to start feeding your lawn with granular fertilizer if you're in the southeast.
Just purchased 9-0-1C, NutriSolve and NutriKelp. If I apply 3oz per 1k of 9-0-1C twice a month will that be enough nitrogen for the month? I am using a 18-0-4 granular at .5lb per 1k
Hi Ron Got humic max, nutri solve and release 901c. What rate should I apply these if I wanted to spoon feed all on the same day on a 2500sq ft area? Humic max 1 per month and liquids twice per month.
3 lbs per 1000 for Humic Max once per month 3 oz per 1000 for 901C 1st and 15th 3 oz per 1000 for Nutri-Solve 1st and 15th Primo Maxx at half rate for your grass type on 1st and 15th golfcourselawn.store/collections/lawn-fertilizers Hope this helps.
What is your view on the below fertilizer solutions from a effectivness perspective and delivery mechanism perspective? - Sunday Lawn Care - Gnome Lawn Care - Simple Lawn Care Solutions Reson I ask is because ive typically done granular fertilizer, but now have a backpack sprayer for herbicide, but the delivery mechanism with the above companies seems pretty beneficial, so curious if their whole offerings are better then going the DIY tank mixing route for fertilizers.
Their offerings are not better than professional liquid fertilizer options. They're designed for ease of use with most being applied using a hose-end sprayer. For what you pay they're typically more expensive per application than professional products. You're largely paying for water.
@@RonHenry that's what I was afraid of, very similar concept as the herbicide side of things. So then follow up question of the application with backpack sprayer, is it really needed to have 2 separate tanks, 1 for herbicide and 1 for fertilizer? When I apply herbicide, I typically do a pretty decent rinse/flush of the wand line with straight water, but don't go all out and soap it up and rinse a lot. Any concerns with going back and forth, with a rinse in-between, of herbicides then fertilizers?
@@realitychecktime101 Nope. Not necessary to have 2 different sprayers. Like you, I rinse the sprayer between uses and run clean water through the pump and wand for 30 seconds before storing it. That way it's always ready to go.
I have not had good results lately with my Drive XLR8 and MSO surfactant. My guess is that I am diluting the solution too much... I heard you say that the product label gives the fl/oz dilution in 1 gal of water for 1000sqft. The problem for me is I would run out of water if I only had 1 gal of water for 1000sqft, that's incredibly fast... How do I combat this?
Sounds like you need to calibrate your sprayer. You're likely either walking too slow or spraying at too high a rate. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hg9wKPsi2pY.html
@RonHenry refer to my original comment...for broadcast applications, it only gives you fl/oz per 1000sqft....How much water am I supposed to use......? 1gal per 1000sqft??? For spot applications the label shows how much fl/oz of product per gal, so I'm confused on why broadcast applications they change the units
Last year, I used granular for everything. I think I applied too many products in a short timespan because, well, I ended up with bald spots and clumps of stuff that looks like clumped up granules
Bioavailability is increased with foliar applications. But prolonged feeding is not there. Granular needs soil/temp (depends on the 'type', ie SCU needs soil bacteria to help break it down). Also, granular applications might cause N/P/K runoff, depending on soil chemistry - so that is money down the drain. - Ph.D Biochemistry
Heya Monk. What you stated is part of the reason why I recommend granular apps once per month and foliar apps twice per month. Btw, granular fertilizers don’t “cause” runoff; They’re subject to it depending on soil type, rainfall, prill size and other factors. Appreciate you chiming in.
@@RonHenry I do recall a study showing that granular applications increase fungus problems in C3 grasses, but it was a very underpowered study. Depending on your soil chemistry, if you core punch (Core Areate) a lawn down to 3 inches, soil microbiology alters to favor the breakdown of granular ferts more than compacted lawns. Hence, why, I always suggest using a soil penetrometer to measure compatication. (Core Aeration is the best thing anyone can do, IMO)
Milorganite is still a good product when used in conjunction with a comprehensive program. You shouldn't use it as your only fertilizer. The main issue with Milorganite is how expensive it's gotten in recent years, to the point where there are competing options that are more attractive.
It's definitely been a while LuisF. I haven't used Milo for years. Milo is still a great product. It's just expensive for what it is. Last I checked it's going for $25 per bag locally for 2500 square feet over coverage. If you're looking for an organic granular fertilizer, I'd opt for this instead: golfcourselawn.store/products/mirimichi-4-4-4-premium-organic-fertilizer Higher quality product with greater coverage. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching the content.
Not necessarily, it all depends. Some liquids work best when they are watered into the soil (e.g., humic acid). It's probably best to wait until the grass wakes up before applying, but putting it down a bit early won't harm anything.
When mixing primo with your liquid fertilizers, do you ever water them in? Primo needs to stay on the grass blade so I guess not but then how do the liquid fertilizers get into the soil quickly?
Liquid if you have a small lawn but large lawns you need a granular in my opinion unless you have fancy driving liquid spreaders. I have about 25ksqft of lawn and liquids suuuuuuccccckkkkk trying to put down
