The pads are really great and can easily deliver the same or even better performance then the best compounds available atm. BUT they really need a gigantic mounting pressure and I really mean the more the better. I got better results with those pads on my PC using a Noctua NHD15 than with any compound I tried. I noticed how much of a difference the scurefirm mounting system was as I tried the pads on my gaming consoles, laptop and my retro gaming pc. They all lack sufficient mounting pressure and overheated pretty quickly. So only use thermal pads if you got big srews and a beefy backplate to hold them in place. regards
Man, you are fast. And Im glad you did this. Ive been searching forever around to see if anyone did this. I was really hoping on doing this but found out the pad isn't very thick to make good contact with the heatsink and IHS. Maybe under the IHS they should work great. We'll see. Im looking for ideas to cool the console down though. Nickel copper plating the heatsinks or getting a custom made heatsink made with copper of the same size of the original but Im not aware of anyplace to do this. Any info? Right now with the thermal grizzly kryoanut Im getting temps under 60s for the CPU and under 50s for the GPU on a CECHA00 model PS3. It should be even lower using liquid metal under the IHS, but just imagine if it had a copper heatsink to use on the top too!
Thank you very much. Better don't use liquid metal, you can use liquid metal under the IHS, the IHS is cooper, just lap the nickel a bit and you will see it's cooper, but i have tested it a long time ago, liquid metal gets very hard with the time and then it loses contact to the cooler. I have a video where you can see what happens to liquid medial after 1 1/2 year :/ Those thermal pads are for me very good, because you don't need to open it again one day, thermal pad's can hold for ever we can say. And your PS3 temps are very good, you can let it like that, but one day you will need to remove the IHS otherwise your ps3 will run hot and you will risk a YLOD. I recommend you to use the grizzly thermal pads inside the IHS and grizzly thermal compound on the IHS. If you don't like to open your PS3 again and again, then use grizzly thermal pad inside the IHS and IC Graphite thermal pad over the IHS.
Hey NSC, have you seen the new yellow light repair method? You replace the NEC Tokins on top of the GPU and it fixes most YLOD, I have done it myself, it works very well.
Was geht nsc❤️ geile video! Ja ned schlecht! Meine ps macht cpu: 48/53-RSX: 50/55 mit Fan: 23% is ned schlecht.. seit 2013 modding usw und sie funkt immernoch😌 "Abraço mano"
@@NSC-Modz Just delidded my CECHL04 and damn the TIM was dry as sand. Now getting bit lower temperatures. Considering graphite pads just to keep it running for my brother to enjoy it in future
Ich habe die Slim und habe mal was ausgetestet. Ich habe eine stink normale 10€ Wärmeleitpaste von Saturn gekauft, habe sie aufgetragen und mit 69 Warnung und 35% Fan Geschwindigkeit und ich bekomme beim zocken nur 56- 57 Grad auf CPU und RSX ist das nicht klasse was so eine 10 Wärmeleitpaste leisten kann :) Und dein Video ist mal wieder Super geworden :)
Ja geht super natürlich aber nur für eine bestimmte Zeit, irgendwann aber wirst du gezwungen sein die IHS zu Köpfen ob du willst oder nicht! Also nicht vergessen :)
From new information that has come forth, those NEC capacitors have mainly been the reason why YLOD happens as these capacitors begin to go bad and cannot supply adequate power to the gpu and or cpu. It is recommended to change them out with new ones which also from what I hear do exist. This is new information and it’s information for the situations now with how old these PS3 fats especially with the launch models. Back then it was for overheating, now with the knowledge we do have it’s the capacitors that are beginning to go bad. Sucks because I have a 69gb for PS2 games and I don’t want this to happen to it as I wouldn’t know where I could take it to replace those capacitors. 😞
heat degrades capacitors MUCH faster! look up a few datasheets, 10C difference can easily mean halving the lifetime of the component. Edit: for the OE128s used on Cell VCC, datasheet says "Capacitance Change: Within ±20% of initial specification at 105°C, Applied Rating Voltage Duration is 1000Hr" That is a MASSIVE swing in capacitance. The component is rated at 1200uF (128=12*10⁸), but can be anywhere from 900 to 2400uF. Being that they most likely just drift towards the lower end of that spectrum over time (faster if running hot!), I'd speculate adding a single 330uF tantalum cap in parallel with each NEC Tokin should fix the issue without destroying the original caps. Will have to try that as soon as I have some spare time.
@@The1NamelessMonster Yea, we now know that it was the RSX all along like qe originally did. The misinformation of the NEC Tokins just derailed us from the actual problem. The NEC Tokins in the PS3 are very reliable. They don't really need replacing.
ah yes! the infamous DIA-002 motherboard! Great in principle with 65nm DIEs, but sadly came with a downgraded cooler. These are some of the last boards before slim introduction, after installing multiman, they emulate PS2 quite well, compatibility is far superior than my slim, never understood why, as they should both be software-only.
Thank you for videos I just subscribed! I am going to try first delid soon. Wondering if I should try this instead of thermal paste. There is so much info out there on PS3 and everyone does it a little different.
@@NSC-Modz I just bought a beautiful A01 seal never broken that I would like to preserve. If I dared use it I'm sure it would overheat. I follow your guides and preserve it instead! Are you worried about the heat with the scotch tape you used? I love the idea of the thermal pad instead of paste but that tape surely cannot take the heat? Thank you for all your videos! I feel confident I can delid no problem thanks to your many guides.
Thank you to, you can use the tape without problem, in this place it gets not that hot and even years later the tape is just in place and very ok without it gets melt. BUT PLEASE, i recommend you to practice the IHS removal on some Brocken PS3 boards befor you do it on your wonderful A01, it looks very easy on my videos, but i have really a lot skills and practice, so please please please go get you some Brocken PS3's and practice it first, you will also need a thin tool for the CELL CPU. But one thing is great on the A01, the A-B models are very easy to remove the IHS :)
NSC, couple of queries : 1. the plastic tape you used to stick the thermal pads onto them cpu and gpu, will they not melt from nearby heat from the cpu and gpu? 2. I have a backward compatible one which has the RLOD and I'm thinking of reflow and then using your approach of using graphite thermal pads, new thermal paste and clean to ensure it stays kool. Do you think that will cure it?
Awesome video! If my fat 60gb CECHA01 is artifacting immediately soon after booting even on start screen are my chips dead damaged forever? or do I just take off the IHS, reflow the balls with flux and heat gun and apply new thermal compound everywhere? Is there still hope?! :'(
I kinda wonder why you use the graphite pads. You mounted the heatspreaders on the cooling blocks using pressure and Arctic Silver MX-4 which definitely has a lot less heat transfer than the graphite pad. And then you added the graphite pads on the dies. So essentially you can only transfer as much heat from the die to the cooling blocks as the Arctic Silver allows you to. That's still better than the gunk that was left on the dies but the graphite pads are unnecessary unless you would use them at every step. I suggest using the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut which has the best heat transfer among thermal paste. And then using that in every step.
Hello ;) Yes, sure, it was more a kinda test, and it still works very good 👍😀 But thermal paste is always better. The graphite pad just never needs to be changed again if you understand what i mean ;) But like i told, for better temps thermal paste is always the best choice. 👌
@@NSC-Modz Recently Thermal Grizzly released the Kryonaut Extreme with higher heat transfer. It's not a bigh difference from the older Kryonaut, but an upgrade nevertheless.
In my PS3 Slim after delidding 2 weeks ago, which I also did myself, I set the fan at flat 40%. Maximum temperature I have reached was 78°c after 4 hours of GTA V. Used AG Silver 3.8W m K
I did this to my PS4 Pro since 01/19 and it is running great. But I used a dot of thermal paste to hold the Graphite pad in place, not tape. Try it it’s the best of both worlds.
I cleaned and installed custom firmware on my PS3, now it is overheating and sounding like a vaccum. But one thing that stayed on my mind is that I lost the thermal pads on the metal part during the cleaning process. I bought new thermal pads and it arrive next week. I am 100% sure it is overheating because of the missing thermal pads on some components because i applied fresh and good thermal paste, specially because the CPU and the RSX is reaching 70-77 degrees only .
How important are those other two small thermal pads that are adjacent to the CPU on the board? One of mine crumbled into pieces and the other came unstuck
These things are not nearly as good as reputable thermal paste and the reason for that is the thickness that's the biggest downside to thermal pad regardless if it's 10 microns thick or a 1 foot square block it still has the same thermal conductivity and a 1 foot cube of it sitting between the silicone die and cooler will result in a poor outcome. This is why thermal paste with a lower conductivity can out preform pads once you mount the coolers it's pushed out to every side only leaving a 1-2 micron thick layer being virtually film and since it's tho thin it preforms better. Even the best thermal paste on the market can't compare to the thermal conductivity of raw metal but unless you are creative and solder the silicon die to the cooler (like AMD solders their silicon dies to their IHS) than the gap even as small as it is preforms worse bare than with thermal paste. Anything you put between a heatsink and IHS will preform worse than if they where both directly fused but since folks can't realistically do that you have to use something. The fat model PS3's actually have waterblocks made custom for them and while total overkill for what it is have a lot to offer I just wish someone made a aftermarket cooler that could make direct contact with the die on the CPU and have a small ram grove cut in them for the ... RSX would be a cool option but at this point it's just modding for modding's sake tho if you go thru all the trouble to delid one use liquid metal (between the silicon die and IHS) it will drop the temps by 15c alone :)
Hi, nice video, i have a question about the ps2 slim 70000 model, do they need to be delided like the ps3 or is it fine just cleaning the fan and fins, it never overheated but it is 15 years old now and if it has thermal paste it must have dried out by now. Is it possible to delid a ps2 slim? Do i need to do it?
@@NSC-Modz Carbonaut offer 62.5 W/mK while the LM offer 73 W/mk what is brand & most importanly offer in W/mk of the thermal paste you put in the PS5 ?
Most important is in first place the contact to the Heatsink, when your Heatsink is bent like shit, so here you better use LM or take a Heatsink that is not bent like he'll. When the APU and Heatsink sits 100% prefect, you don't need LM because you got full contact, not only 40-60% like it was on my PS5 My new (not bent) Heatsink has now 100% contact to the APU, so here the heat gonna be transferred just prefect, even with shity thermal paste, because the APU has contact every where to the Heatsink and not only about 40% The rest are just numbers. -> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6MeQMd_U_ns.html
I have an original fat 60gig PS3. I just got the red light of death and I went ahead took it apart, heated the board, and replaced the thermal compound. But after all that I had no success. Any other recommendations?
Hi NSC.. Are you selling that liquid cooler i saw on on your other video? My PS3 just keeps powering off.. I cleaned it. Changed the thermal paste but after I put ir back together it just have garbage display and freezes.. Please help.. Thank you NSC..
@@haveyoumetred4129 Yhank you very much ;) just take care when you removing the IHS, i recommend you to practice it first on a broken PS3 before you do it on yours ;)
I finally got my rsx running cool in ceceh P01 n my cell was getting at 72 n go up higher n now I took back apart n look at cell heat steader n notice half the corner of cell heatsteader didn't have the thamal paste on it so cover it back up n put all together n try it n the cell is 61 n rsx is 59.
Will you still need to replace the compound on top of the caps eventually still? Can you use pads on those as well so that there is no paste and it won't need paste service again?
Nevermind! I found your answer to someone else to: If you don't like open your ps3 again use Grizzly thermal pad inside IHS and use IC Graphite thermal pad on top of the IHS. Thank you so much for sharing all this
@@anderxale1 Hi Yeah, you can do it like that, or just use for all Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, because this thermal paste gets never hard ;) Sorry my late reply, but i have a lot to do some times.
Allgemeine Frage: Weist du ob alle PS3 Fat Netzteile untereinander kompatibel sind ? Kann ich z.B. ein 80 GB Netzteil (Plastikgehäuse) in eine 60Gb PS3 einbauen?
Hey NSC. I was wondering if you could make a video replacing the 4 Nec/Tokin 0E128 capacitors on a YLOD PS3 on the top side of the motherboard (opposite of cpu and gpu) and replace with 4 330uF 2.5V. If anyone can get it done right it’s you.
I concur I would love to watch your PS3 surgeon style replace a set of the caps too. I just bought 16 new caps though I am hesitant to remove the old ones till I know for sure what to do.
@@craigslaunwhite579 yeah but i really need to say one thing, i never had problems with those NEC's, and i had really tausends of playstations... This happens maybe to people's that has done a bad Reflow, those NEC chips don't like to get overheated.
@@NSC-Modz Nah man, they absolutely DO die. Hook up serial syscon to a few YLOD PS3 and you are going to find a number of them spew out Cell/RSX power issues. Replacing the caps, or just adding a few tantalum ones around the NECs will then clear the YLOD.
What are the normal temperature for rsx n cpu before overheating? N how do I get the temperature screen up like what's on ur screen mine is on Dex n 4.84 cobra 8.1. Thanks
I got miltiman on ps3 can I still run Webman mod also n wat do u recommend on Webman mod? I also gonna try remover the rsx n cell on cach h01 due to overheating issue showing yellow light of death n if it works then gonna try on my other ps3 cech A01 try it on it also. Thanks ill keep u updated on progress on both. I've watch lot of ur videos on remover on rsx n cell .. keep up great work my friend
In meinen PS3's ist thermal grizzly wärmeleitpaste mit geköpftem IHS auf RSX und CPU. Bei 23°C Raum temperatur und 29% Fan speed erreichen beide chips nie mehr als 63°C :)
To be fair thermal paste will still make better contact and heat transfer, it might be a good idea at first use a thermal pad but I wouldnt recommend it.
@@InsaniaTHEGREATONE really not risky, you can control the temperatures all the time with WebMan Mod :) If you see it gets to hot, you can replace it all the time again with thermal paste ;)
@@NSC-Modz Well yeah, webman mod is really useful for temperature controls, I think thermal pad would still make console to be loud as fuck, as I said interesting video to try it, I enjoyed it actually, but a good pricey thermal paste is a way to go for more silent approach.
But is it ok if I scratched or expose the copper lines on the outer brown part of the cpu? Will it give me a ylod on startup? I only exposed the copper lines a little on the corner but it's not a trace I have damaged
Denkst du, dass 49/49°C bei 36% Lüftergeschwindigkeit im XMB schon sehr gut ist bzw 52/55°C 36% im Spiel Skate? Modell: CECH-3004A 2B (Wärmeleitpaste wurde nicht gewechselt und die CPU wurde nicht geköpft)
@@LNCRFT Stimmt dank den Dotz, aber sehr gut aufpassen, weißte ja meine J04 is 12 jahre und ich hab sie nach 10 jahren aufgmacht idle so 69-70 und beim zocke vielleicht 75 beim sonyfanspeed, net schlecht für nen nonköpfte aber auch net für ewig, irgendwann gehen se alle kaputt >(
@@NSC-Modz Have you tried putting thermal pad graphite on a ps3 60gb retro compatible with ps2 I would like to see a video of its temperatures with that thermal pad
This i have to try in my ps4. Because repasting only lasts maybe 1 month or so then there is PUMP OUT. When i open no paste left on the die. 🙄 I think i will try this. 👍
I'd suggest IC Diamond. It's made of 92% diamond particles and 8% oil, making it extremely thick/viscous and resistant to pump-out. Most thermal pastes are around 40-50% silicone or oil, which works fine on heat spreaders, but no good on bare dies.
Hi NSC, What could be the problem if i have backed up my original bin file from my ps3(phat) with my E3 flasher, patched it successfully (all green + no alert of non downgradable) and after flashing the patched file my ps3 is bricked. i tried to unbrick it with flashing the patched bin file while SBE soldered to gnd, but no success, after flashing the original bin file i had success. I started over again to make a back up now that my original bin file was flashed. The back up was success, i patched it and it was all green again and validated. After flashing it for the 2nd attempt i still remain bricked. (ps3 shuts off + 3beeps). My phat ps3 is a CECHK03 and is downgradable. (normally all phat ps3's are).. I used ps3 flash tool 4.50 ,, Could a higher version solve it? also i have not had hdd inside ps3 when doing this proces. I looked at the log file and all is OK There is no other expert on this matter then you NSC so i hope you will respond. My E3 flasher is the limited version. **UPDATE** I got it sorted out. PS3 is fine now
@@NSC-Modz No problem. I had DEX and that's why i could not update with no dex. Now my ps3 is jailbreaked with rebug 4.84 but because of overheating cpu 80 rsx 43 i tried to change to ferrox 4.84 and changed to cex. cpu is 75° and rsx 43° so i decided to delid the IHS. I have succesfully delid it without any scratches or so. But now my ps3 is not powering on after i press the sensor. It only has the power led light on but after pressing sensor to put ps3 on it does not respond. I started a thread on psx place forum. This video can maybe show you more of my ps3 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4Yf43stk3b0.html
Ganz erliche Frage: hat sich dieser Aufwand jetzt gelohnt? Kann auch sein das ich so ein silent jigollo bin weil ich so an der Pc Lautstärke verwöhnt bin.
@@NSC-Modz lol its not on water cooler or on 100% fan speed ive got a separate power supply for my ps3 internal fan and ive got 2 more fans on the ps3 case your videos have inspired me to keep my ps3 cool as possible so i thank you
@@NorthsideChamps16 not wondering, i needs more than 120C° to melt. I open those PS3's over and over again for my tests, tape was always looking fine. No panic 😆
