Man to be honest, as an Australian, it's really nice to see high quality localised content. My wife pays me out every time she hears "Welcome back to Hoochos!" hahah
I moved to Brisbane and learning to grow in this climate has been a massive challenge! Shade cloth is a must in summer. So great to follow a top quality grower in the same area.
I love your greenhouse/ shadehouse!!! It is so friggin unique. The poles, the beams ... just the squareness of it! The gravel and all that SPAAAAAAACE!
Awesome build 👍 I live in SE QLD and work away. This is exactly what i've been looking for.. of course with a few mods to suit my situation. Love your vids and you've given me some great ideas to make my hydro shadehouse work.
With rapid set concrete you don't normally mix it. Wet the hole and pour the concrete in dry then add the amount of water as in the instructions. It has a chemical that draws the water through the mix. You will be weakening the concrete by mixing it and it is a very fast setting product. It also saves your back a lot by putting it in dry.
@Hoocho Hate to be that guy...but your probably going to end up with roof sag, make sure you don't get a build up of leaves and avoid walking on the roof. In future make sure your beams are sat with the shorter 2' width facing up and down because if you lye them flat you loose any strength. For a light building I'd also consider using 6"x2" as a minimum. Since you have taught me so much about hydraponics I'll return the favour with a short lesson in mechanics. When you stand in the middle of a beam supported on each end, your weight will cause that beam to sag in the middle. Ok so much you already know, but if I was looking at you standing on the beam from the side and drew a line along the centre of the length. The top of the beam above the centre line will be in compression, whilst the lower part of the beam will be in tension. This is how you get the strength, a thin beam of 2" will sag more than a thicker beam of 6" inch because less material is available to resist the deflection of the beam caused by you standing on it. Now if you really want to increase the strength, stick a piece flat on the top and flat on the bottom and you get an I beam. This seriously increases the area of material resisting the deflection and works because the maximum physical compressive force occurs right on the top face of the beam and the maximum tensile force will be on the bottom face of the beam. The middle (or neutral) line that I drew down the centre will experience the least force/movement. But the general rule is, the further your top and bottom faces are from the centre line, the stronger your beam is. Other than that, great job and thanks for what you do. I've just started growing veg hydraponicly this year and your videos have been really helpful. Just made my first pucks today!! If you havn't already, I would love a video on what happens to different plants when things go wrong, like PH, EC, Temp problems...although that last one might not be an issue in oz but all in the vein of reading your plants when things arn't right. I know you talk about whats gone wrong with some of your plants as you go, but a dedicated video would be awsum!!!!!!! Take care and thanks again.
I used those same greenhouse roofs. It is item 77000 at Lowes, that's how much I know about them, lol. You MUST not build like that as mine caved in (with even more wood support) with a heavy rain storm. The middle of one will pinch and buckle from the weight of water. You must fix that asap, lol. This happened last year at 42*N, way up in Michigan not even in a tropical area, ha. Believe me man.
I warned my grow partner as he built it the same way. I warned him and lets just say I got to laugh inside and say "told you so" as he repaired the damages. Oh and we lost a really nice plant almost so, it wasn't all peaches and cream.
Oh, I think theyre good but it just needs to be tilted so the water doesn't set and gain weight on the weakest point. I know those things are pricey and they diffuse light, giving you more light, so they are very good for greenhouses... edit, oh you can tilt 15 degrees to one end, and put a gutter with a window screen mesh to filter out leaves from the tree, giving you perfect rain water for crops.
Unless your roof looks like its holding water I wouldn't worry but If you can flip the roof bearers onto their edge they will support more weight and it might help with some of your bowing. (carpentry qualification: have built 3 roof's many years ago :) ) If you want to get really excited you can look up span tables to see what size timber you need for each gap, But if you aren't sleeping under it and it aint broke then why fix it!
Dude nice good work 👍 To counter the bowing effect of roof members, just consider raising them a little in the middle and flitching them with a steal flat through n through securing the flat with screws and an adhesive to prevent dry joining, so that they behave together, that's where the tension prevails. This should address your sagging/bowing problem. Please come back with results 🙏
This is exactly what I had in mind to build! Have been searching RU-vid for ideas and nothing else fits my requirements. Your hybrid version is great. I have two dongas in an L shape and want to have the space shaded for my greenery nudge nudge wink wink :)
Worth mentioning for some viewers with gardens, do you require bees for pollination of the plants you grow? This is also a consideration for conventional greenhouses.
Oh dear, ready mix concrete now days you pour in, add water and let it set, no mixing required. either that or you bought the wrong bags LOL. love the build 👍👍
Brilliant show mate, so good I watched it twice. At minute 12:15 did I hear a remark about light spectrum outdoors and shade cloth ??? 😁 I’d like to know more and see what “outdoor” light spectrums could be achieved via cloth/plastics/magic .. BTW, ya mate should’ve helped wheelbarrow 4 cubes of crusha dust - dude 👍 respect for doing that by ya self
I have a similar structure on a balcony. around 2012 we had a party and some plexi was BBQ'd. lol yea.... Had it repaired. 2018 half the roof came off in the wind. =wuh??? SOOOO after looking carefully, I noticed that the original builder put a goop on EVERY screw & new guy didn't. The structure is 40 years old. The wood is now gone around many of the screws(repair job). Mind you that it hardly rains in California. btw >> Awesome shade house man !!
Great job, good tips, looking to upgrade my first shade house build here in Geraldton and will go the modular route using pine posts and 3m treated pine, certainly saves time. I have Mr Stacky system and built my own recirculating system but will move away from those to the Krakty method its much simpler, nutrient uptake as required so no needless loss in unnecessary flows. Built my first Kratky system yesterday out of a storage tub and net cups, onwards and upwards. Thanks again for your great content and the beer looks like a tasty drop too. cheers
I want to do this but also lay pond lining over the whole floor and making the whole floor a sump and put everything on blocks, making a pathway or even fish pens with netting to separate. Using every bit of sunlight and it wouldnt matter so much if anything springs a leak because it would all drip into the sump
Exactly what I was looking for, for next year's outdoor cannabis, man moths and caterpillars absolutely butchered my plants this season and i am done! I was stuck between something like this or a greenhouse?.. but I can handle aphids n all but the caterpillars are done with.
Love your shade house design. I already have a small open shade house coming off my back Paddio. However, I only keep potted plants in it. I’m now thinking about building a specialized Hydroponics Shade House, similar to yours in the future. 😊 From what I understand, one of the main advantages of a closed in Shade House, is its ability to keep out pests and vermin. However, especially with fruiting plants, wouldn’t this lack of insects affect pollination? If so, how could we work around this issue? I was just thinking, could you relocate a small Bee’s Nest into the Shade House (in your situation, maybe you could use something like Australian stingless Native Bees) to assist with pollination? If this is an option, would you need to contain all of the Bees withing the Shade House, or would they also need access to the outside as well, to survive? This might make an interesting topic for a video you could make in the future.
I don't understand what you did with the wire. Did the nails not attach the mesh? How did the wire attach it? Did you just run it behind the wire and that's it?
Very nice work. It's funny, I was thinking these days about making a greenhouse, and I was wondering about the plastic that stops the UV for the plants ;-). Just a small remark, for the wooden poles, even if they received a copper treatment (autoclave), personally I would have fixed them on concrete blocks of 20x20c20 cm so that they are raised and not in contact with the ground or with the weeds which will grow around and risk to rot the wood. I once used wooden posts that I planted in the ground with cement, and although they were treated with autoclave class 4 (the highest level of wood treatment) they ended up rotting after a few years. I have a question about "shade cloth", I am in a country where it is hot all year round, and I was thinking of using only "shade cloth" for my greenhouse. Do you think that the ventilation is enough, because you need a very good ventilation in greenhouses, especially when the height is low, because the heat will stagnate. The professional greenhouses have a height of more than 6 m for good ventilation and efficient heat removal. last point: in case of a storm, do you think the shade cloth will be strong enough. Thanks
My mates greenhouse is 2.4m high with 70% shadecloth top and sides. He lives in the central highlands of Queensland where it gets bloody hot. He has no problems growing all year around
@@Hoocho Thank you soo much! You're actually the man! I'm in Sydney btw if you're ever down here hmu..I recently got land in Mudgee and your vids are super helpful
For me i would use polythene on the side to trap moisture inside and shade net up the top so rain could pass u side and to block excessive heat. I would use 50 percent or more on top to control the heat coming down, if heat are already control i would like to trap much moisture inside by using the polythene on the walls as much closed up as possible.
Is it just me that has only just realised that the symbol beside "hoochos" is a plant in a puk? And it's about time that the pucks be called something like "hooch plugs" 🤣
