Its certainly is great when you have ability to grow them in ground. One thing you should consider though when you cover them with straw and tarp, is mice. You can put around tree bark some moth balls to keep mice away. An experienced fig grower shared it with me.
Good call, they also hate other strong smells such as peppermint oil, chili pepper oil, etc. so you can soak cotton balls, rags etc. in those and spread them around for protection.
There are a few reasons why individuals grow in pots. Renters, poor soil, backfill from construction, toxin's in the ground, live in extreme cold zone. I grow my potted espalier figs in pots to get a earlier start and harvest.
kinda shocked. We had some seriously COLD days last winter. Our fig was in a plastic pot in the pollytunnel. No insulation on the pot or around it. Its doing very well, I didnt know that i should have protected it. This year, i WILL. Thanks
If I was in a super-cold climate what I would do is the straw, a black tarp to absorb heat, then some sort of hoop house / greenhouse (I like cattle panels) over them with some greenhouse film good at retaining heat, that setup would probably give you +2-3 zone temps.
My winters have been getting record cold. 12 below zero fahreheit in 2021 and I am zone 7 a. I never get breba unless I protect in pots. The oldest in ground fig I know of 40 miles south froze to ground first time ever. Probably a 75 year old fig tree. I will keep some in pots for sure.
Ross you change your mind to often first it was always in pots now only inground, when i first found your channel 3-4-years ago i remember telling you my grandfather use to dig a big whole one one side of the tree and cut the roots on the other side and push the tree over in the whole and bury it it always worked great and we got many figs each year.
Try out burlap coffee bean sacks, these work well and can be picked up at your local coffee roasters sometimes. Check it out and ask them next time you get a cup of coffee at a local roaster.
Will be interesting to see, if you produce figs. I live in Ohio, if I do not wrap them up and they die back. The fig trees will grow to a height of 8 + but will not produce any figs that can ripen. Even if you pinch them. The variety I have is VDB and Brown turkey/Texas ever bearing. It seems they put all of there energy into growing versus fruiting. I have had these varieties in the ground since 2006. I would love to hear your thoughts.
Your right if one doesn’t have land then ?We’re living on ground floor then all of them were in grounds then moved another rented house then up rooted in earthen pots as got upper floor,it’s a big house with large roof &balconies .With help of Labourer carried them on roof &balconies along with m y black grape (crimson/dark) also in 10-8 inches pot all are doing fine .like the very much as a hobby.Since am retired keep myself busy .
I'll go with that. Here in the UK my in ground figs are so much more productive than the potted variety and a lot less work. Watering is never a problem and I cut them back every winter and I don't have to protect them against the cold like the potted variety which take over the greenhouse until April...
I am also in the UK and there is no need to give potted figs any winter protection where I am. They are happier in the ground, for sure but definitely hardy enough to get through the winter in a pot. Maybe you're in a colder zone than me!
Are there other varieties beyond Smith that don't do well with pruning, or would you say it's more a matter of varieties like Smith having high light requirements? Perhaps worth a column on the Special Characteristics tab? Either way, your videos and spreadsheet are invaluable; thanks so much for sharing so much good info!!!
2ft spacing for high density... As long as you cut and cover, can this spacing be maintained for many years without overcrowding? Are there many varieties that don’t fruit if they’re pruned back that far?
I know you've tried different in-ground densities. What is the best highest density you've used? With as short as the trees are kept, I'd think 4-6' would be fine.
Ross can you help me out? I just watched your video where you said cutting back in the fall would switch hormones to growth instead of fruiting. What’s the best time to prune for best harvest and also for shaping?
Thanks for bringing this idea to us. Two questions: 1. Under this method, since we don't allow the tree to persist year after year and grow out, what should be the recommended spacing to not waste space? 2. What do you cut your trees with? I'd like to make a clean cut. Are electric saws ok?
Ross - It’s very discouraging to watch this video, to hear you change course on growing fig trees in containers. Obsolete? You inspired people like myself, who don’t live in a great climate (6b) or have much space, to start a new hobby growing fig trees in containers. Hope you don’t lose viewers who need fig container info. Thanks for sharing your outstanding knowledge on growing container fig trees. You’re the best!
@@RossRaddi At the beginningof this year, I started several cuttings from my mother-in-laws fig tree who lives in SW Philly. The trees grew, but I started the planting process to late to produce any fruit. I'm going to buy more cuttings this winter and hope to have about a dozen fig trees in containers next spring. You gave me a vision for growing fig trees in containers. Just a little discouraged when all of a sudden I hear that this method is obsolete. Thanks for your response, I get the point you're trying to make. Looking forward to 2021 fig season!
Nov. 6 I picked my last two ripe figs, my trees are shedding their leaves. I have potted and in-ground trees. When is the best time to move the trees planted in containers to the cellar? Temperatures are still above 32 F freezing temperature. How would you go about banana plants?
Ross, first, your yellow jacket is the bee's wax- props. Second, I have a whole bunch of first year figs in 7 gallon grow bags (Violet Sepor, RDB, Smith, Improved C., Florea etc) and I think your overwintering system has inspired me to put them inground - I have about 50 feet that I use for 20 gallon pots now. I'm hesitant to plant the figs in the fall because the roots won't have a chance to get established; if you get a chance, do you agree? Either you cracked the code, or the warm winter last year was the reason, but I don't care...I'm going to go for it.... I'm not dragging those pots back and forth, or standing there watering those things for the rest of my life. P.S. What is your spacing?
You can plant them in the fall. Assuming your winter protection works. I prefer that personally because you when you set up the tunnels in the spring, you don't have to plant all your trees in March.
@@RossRaddi thanks Ross, I haven't been paying attention this Covid season; I was building a few of Joe's structures for my existing inground trees with insulated 55 gallon drums..a project I had from last year. I'm catching up on your forum posts because I'm going to try this method. I'm actually in Hamden, CT where the ag station is, and I saw what Mario was referring to on your post. Ok..6 foot raised bed, 2 rows of figs spaced 3 feet, cut 6 to 12 inches, mulched with straw, tarp cover. Then, low tunnels in spring..got it.
How far are the roots likely to grow outward using the in-ground method with 2 feet spacing? Should I avoid planting next to a sidewalk or close to my neighbor’s yard? Thanks, love this new method!
So true. My potted figs are disappointing, my ground figs are no maintenance and high production. I had the most amazing cherimoya at the supermarket. It was life changing.
Hi Ross. Like the idea of in ground. Don't know how they will do in freeze/thaw conditions but worth a try, like wide swings in temps, rain, then freeze, snow then high winds etc. BTW what are you doing with the pomegranates? staying in pots? I have one in ground protected thru the winter and going to try persimmon. u have persimmons? Show us your citrus sometime:) thanks
I thought growing figs in pots was preferred to keep the roots contained and vigour under control. Are you saying they can be planted and just pruned back to a stump each year? You plant very closely - what diameter trunk could be expected on a mature fig? I have a narrow border between path and fence and looking for something to fruitful plant.
The only reason to grow them in pots was to keep them away from cold and to get an earlier harvest. Now the only reason is if you don't have land, if you're experimenting with a large amount of varieties or if specific varieties will not perform well in ground.
About to try your method here in the Australian spring. Is watering important while they’re rooting? We’re on heavy clay & 10 year old beauty is about to turn up its toes so plan to save offspring
Thats northern new york and i used to pit bales of hay around my raised beds and frost cover over the top I was picking vegetables while the ground around my system was frozen.
Hey Ross just curious where in Italy does your family hail from ? Big thanks fot the tip to cut down 6 to 12 inches ! I will put on east side of house as the west winds are very harsh ! Also, you cut the main trunk of the fig tree to 6 inches and then the following year you just cut the four branches you let grow out correct ? Saluti tutti ! Caio.
Heard you mention a few in the video, but what other varieties will you be planting/have planted in the ground so far? I live in 5b and given your experience curious to know which varieties made the cut. Thanks
It’s early Nov in N Texas and my 2 trees are still fruiting. It’s been 70’s during the days. Should I remove the little figlets? One is in ground for over a year the other is in a large pot (Turkey Fig) that was purchased in late spring. Both had very small figs in July but started fruiting again in September. Love your channel!
The high density planting is not ideal for the south, the humidity and rain causes fig rust that will transfer over to all trees. I have them 7ft apart here in Florida. And still have to battle rust.
You're going to get rust no matter what your spacing is in FL. In this system each tree is limited to 4 fruiting branches. Each fruiting branch is given 1 sq ft. Plenty of room for good air flow.
@@RossRaddi my spacing is each tree is 7ft apart, and 3-4 branches with an open center, a 3 feet diameter, so plenty of air flow, but florida rains are abundant. I am in miami, seems like it rains every other day😱
