In all the years my chain adjustments have gone wrong and needed repeated efforts to get right and it’s as simple as you’ve shown. Massive thanks 🙏 Liked and subbed👌
If you own a 2015 Yamaha FZ-07, I had the same problem with that bike!! The weird chain adjustment plates drove me nuts because I could never get it right, and here you are with the same symptoms as I had. Thank you for the helpful insight in the rough measurements of before and after.
Thank you for taking your time for this video. It's been a long time for me and I needed a quick to the point refresher crash course. And your video was quick and precise I just got a 2007 gsxr with only 3k miles.
Good stuff....the GSXS's do the same thing....I set my adjustment to 1 1/4 inch of play when loose and then when I tighten the axle nut down it's back in spec at 1 inch.
04 GSX R 750 owner since 06. Always find the tight spot in the chain and mark it if necessary. That tight spot is what needs to be in spec. Then tighten each side quarter turn at a time and torque axle to 78 lb ft. And recheck. Quarter turn is usually all it takes and keeps you from overdoing it right off the bat.
Thanks for doing this, I appreciate it. I am riding a GSXR750. Can this be done with the bike just on it's side stand as I dont have the rear paddock stand?
Great info. Also remember to set the slack at the tightest point. As you spin the rear tire slowly checking every few links you will find the the chain is loser and tighter at different points.
The shoulder/chamfer of the Axel has pressed into the Axel block from over tightening the Axel nut. Get a new Axel block and use a torque wrench with specs from manual and this problem will not exist.
False. The axle is designed with a shoulder. If you didn't pull the axle in, then that block would be lose. The adjuster has a hole the size of the axle, not the threads
@MotoRich i have the 2011 gsxr 1000, and when i torque Axel nut to spec there is only a couple of threads visible of the axle protruding through past the nut . My Axel blocks do not have an impression on the inside surface from the Axel on the back the edges of the hole. Mine are flat and square. I was just going by visual that on your bike the nut looked to have been over tightened as many threads are visable and using an impact gun. If it's your bike try a new Axel block and the centering issue should be solved. Suzuki actually had a recall on Axel blocks back in around 2012 as the aluminium used was too soft and could cause alignment issues. I got the replacement Axel blocks free from suzuki under the global recall.
@Marcus Barnes I made another video because you are not the first to suggest that it's from over torquing the axle. It's not, I just see it physically move because my impact tightens it so quickly. The sloping on those blocks (not my bike) were from the chain being too tight. The sprocket was previously destroyed by the chain being over Tightened and the block was being pulled way too tight. I actually had to used a rubber mallet to get the axle out originally from it being so tight, which is what inspired me to make the video
@@motorich my l5 gsxr 1000 does not pull into the block like that, that is from over tightnening.use a torque wrench, i can provide pictures if needed, you should also be using a screwdriver or peice of wood jammed in the rear sprocket while tightening so you dont end up with the extra slack. these bikes are fast. maintain it proper
Yea, same as not using an impact on anything if you are going to use that logic. I have torque tested my impacts. They vary slightly depending on battery life and size but typically don't over torque.
@@motorich I investigated the cause for loose and tight spots and found 2 culprits. First culprit is the rare sprocket plate which is bend but its teeth haven't scratched and so I kept the rare sprocket plate on the floor and bashed it gently with hammer to flatten it perfectly and the 2nd culprit is the chain itself where I found the loose slack is there on 9 pair of blocks that is interconnected to the chain. So previously the difference between loose and tight spots was around 1 inch but now the difference between tight and loose spots is only 5 mm. So if I buy a new chain then it will be 0 mm. My Pulsar bike's user manual shows the slack should be between 25mm and 30mm. Many years ago I found bend swing arm as another culprit and I straightened it with a rod. What I noticed in the past many years ago that using WD-40 on chain is dangerous as I found that WD-40 decreased the metallic thickness of my chain and hence there was a slack of 5mm.
@@prostreetgsxr at some point you will notice without even checking it ^^ . Learned it the hard way... I didn't know how to maintain my bike properly back then.
From 0:01 I new you'd make the same mistake as everyone else. The manual clearly specifies 'Place the motorcycle on the side stand'. The slack specification is for the bike on the side stand and often on a paddock stand it gets set wrong. Don't argue, check it first.
I know what the manual says. But I hate to say that the side stand and a rear stand share little relevance on the slack of the chain. I can go further into depth on why it does it if you would like. But it has zero to do with the side stand or kick stand.
You can adjust the chain with the bike on the side stand. The end result just needs to be the proper slack in the chain. This allows the free movement of the swingarm
its same on yamaha mt10 2020. I adjusted it to spec 20-30mm and when tighten the axlebolt it tension it to 10mm wtf so i need to adjust it to 30mm and then tighten the bolt and it goes to 20mm
Half way through the vid I realised why my gsxr doesn't have this problem, because I put my nut on the exhaust side. I think I did that because the bike was always lifting when I tried to undo the nut.
Just take the slack out of the chain. You shouldn't be trying to break the chain or anything. But the bike in neutral and pull up to get the slack out as much as you can.
The bike is on a paddock stand so it is loaded. If the bike was suspended via the swingarm pivot the suspension wouldn't be loaded... Another little trick. I always adjust the chain with the bike on the ground but before I tighten the axle nut I place an extension bar (socket set) between the rear sprocket and chain. Roll the bike forward a little to make the chain tight (take up the slack) then tighten the nut.
what does the manual say? having it on stands like in the beginning of the video (I paused at 2 minutes now), or on the sidestand? It affects the play of the chain like half an inch easily
For those who say the bike needs to be on the sidestand... This guy has the bike on a paddock stand so the rear suspension is loaded just like it would be on the sidestand. Common sense really
Hahahaha.. aluminum dust from what? Please explain. Because it is definitely a steel washer and a steel nut. Nothing spinning is contacting aluminum. Maybe you shouldn't try and belittle people and start paying attention to evidence first
Well.. you adjust your chain ever 400-500 miles. You have to loosen and tighten that nut reguardless of who does it. So... I can tell that somebody needs to work on their maintenance intervals. And I am not worried about stripping a bolt. I use the correct tools.
DO NOT USE A IMPACT TO PUT NUT BACK ON. YOU CAN SEE SHARDS OF ALUMINUM FLYING OFF AT 4:53 OR EVERY TIME HE RETIGHTENS SHARDS OF ALUMINUM GO FLYING. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT. EVERYTHING ELSE HE SAID IS CORRECT.
It's not aluminum. There is nothing back there other than the swingarm that is aluminum. The axle is steel. The nut is steel and so is the washer. It is not aluminum or steel flakes.my tool sit together and my grinder does spit debre everywhere. I will do another video to prove the point if needed
I think it should be required that people have a license to do RU-vid tutorials. Especially when it comes to vehicles that can kill you if it's done improperly. You never even touched on the long screw. What is that long screw there. Is it of any significance. It looks like it may be some type of an adjuster. But gee you never mentioned it. So I wouldn't know. I wasn't the one that decided to do a video tutorial on a GSXR chain adjustment.
I think it should be a requirement that people have educations to make RU-vid comments. Especially when they have zero clue what they are trying to say. I never did touch the screw.. because this was NOT a chain adjustment tutorial. It was an awareness video for those that already know how to adjust their chain but may not realize that the GSXR adjustment changes when you tighten the axle. Maybe you shouldn't be so judgemental. I never 1 time stated that I would be showing anybody how to adjust a chain. Thanks for watching though.
