are you sure about the orientation of grease seal...? my stock bearings had it installed other way around..., double lines towards inside of bearings(facing away from the diff)...?
i would also say that correct is the other way around. at least i have then put in like that... the double lines towars inside (it then sits evenly on the bearing)
Good video! I'll be doing this exact front diff overhaul in a few weeks minus the wheel bearings are they were done recently. What prompted you to do this? My CV's are making a cracking/clicking sound when in 4wd and turning. 380k and probably the original ones so they did well Cheers
well, I was told the car had an auto locking front diff when i bought it. Then the first time i had it off road i didn't recognize the scary ratcheting sound so assumed my CV's were toast.
Great video, I am from Argentina, and own a Y60, same hub, I need to replace the four little bearings, those you changed in the first part of your video, i was wondering if you have the specs or serial number of those bearings, I don´t dare extracting them before knowing there are available in my country. Thanks!!
its not paint, its molykote dry film lubricant. it effectively acts like wd40 in that it stops corrosion but unlike wd40 it "dries" of the surface and creates a barrier layer. yes they will be greased so you don't have to but it makes the assembly that much more satisfying.
I didn't bother cus i stuffed mine removing them which you probably dont even need to do. I just used gasket goo on all the entries into the cv chamber so hopefully no water gets in
@@ep1911 nah got the rd28 in mine. Just about to get it running with a mechanical GQ pump swap which will be easier to tune than the stupid electronic system
You need a dial gauge, spring scale, lever bar small, brass punch, impact screwdriver, vice or bearing press, socket set, gear puller for the steering arms, grind down an old shitty gear puller for the kingpins like he does, torque wrench up to 200nm, bags of rags, degreaser, brake cleaner, brass hammer if you wanna be fancy same with seal puller, seal driver kit im your sockets aren't big enough, some vice grips to repress the caliper cylinders (take brake fluid levels to min first) Gasket goo. change the shims with new ones. I hope your happy, I just had to write all this to go over my actions to make sure i did it right. Freaked me out!
Bought the cv joints new they were packed with grease. Couldnt be fucked replacing the caps under the kingpins so i installed the shims with a layer of gasket goo to keep water out. Bit rough but it works
Nice work, thx for sharing. You have reminded me why the last time I did this in 2009 I said I wouldn’t do it again. Sigh. I’m a but surprised you didn’t lather the CVS in grease as per the other comment. Is there any workshop book guidance on this? I have no doubt that by the time I do mine again soon - I will refer to this brilliant resource you have made!
@@ibsn87 yea i probably should have wacked grease down the cvs. They were brand new from a shop over here and had grease packed down in them already. Il check my wheel bearings for play this weekend since i didnt have the proper tool i set them. Should be right though bearings are pretty straight foawrd.
ebay enthusiast42 oh well, the grease would only fly outward under centripetal forces, so maybe it would make no difference? I’ve done wheel bearings about 5 times between GQ and my GU. The way I was taught to pack the bearings was to cup a handful of grease and systematically cut into the edge of it with the bearing until grease eventually works all the way through to the other side each roller bearing within the bearing cage. Takes ages but works well. This ensures the entire bearing is packed full. And then for setting the tension on them, you do it up nice and tight and then back off, rotate the whole assembly, up nice and tight again - to make sure everything is seated - not crazy tight, back off and then the spec is a really small amount of tension. Even with the correct tool, it’s basically impossible to set as most torque wrenches don’t go that low... Just enough to stop play in the whole assembly but not enough to preload the bearings. I know someone who did them up firm, the bearings didn’t last very long. Again though, thanks for sharing! There’s lots of little tricks I had forgotten how painful they were. Like removing the kingpin bearings for example!! I also recall being totally frustrated and confused by a number of the swivel hub seals and trying to figure out their orientation as they were different to my OEM seals. Ohh the joys. I can’t wait for my cyber truck. I’m done maintaining cars haha
@@ibsn87 yea i read all over about the correct procedure for aetting heel bearings. In the end of the day your pretty mich just making the bearing race sit in the cup not too lose not too tight so i just did it by feel. Got a 3 hour drive on friday so lets hope i did it right ahahaha
