I really enjoyed the amount of detail you went into on this one. Keep it up! I'm not sure if you use Facebook, but there is a great "Guillows flying models" group with over 5k members that would drool over your projects. They even host build and fly competitions every once in awhile.
LD: If there is any chance you could post this Pilatus video to the Facebook Guillows group, I would be most grateful. Things a but busy here at the moment! 😃 Tim
Very informative and awesome skills, beautiful build and upgrade. To me it seemed to be a little fast, of course it could be just the speed you like.but I think it would slow down with less throttle and may be a touch of head wind. Very nice Turbo porter. Thanks
I built this kit and the only problem I had is the windshield and I see you did the same thing I did , Remove senter wind shield brace, the actual windshield is molded acetate is flat ,using the shield brace is a nightmare. I also made the cowl out of balsa , that plastic cowl is likely to deform with a heat iron. I built it for display . All and all a decent kit to build
Airplanes with long noses tend to be pitchy among other things, particularly when changing power settings. That may be one reason that the shorter-nosed Aeronca is a better, more stable flyer. Those high aspect-ratio wings are good for gliding efficiency but not so much for powered flight and, like full-sized wings of similar design tend to more easily warp under load unless specifically braced against such warpage. The Aeronca's lower aspect ratio wings are less likely to warp and are intrinsically more stable under power. I agree with you about those wing tips. Also, motor/propellor offsets will be more sensitive on such a long forward moment-arm. It's possible that the rudder/fin and rear fuselage side area behind the C.G. is inadequate to offset the enormous forward nose side area. Accordingly, yaw stability is likely to suffer. C.G. placement will also be critical with a low-aspect-ratio wing as the C.L. (center of lift) and C.G. are necessarily so close with that kind of wing plan. At this model's reduced size, even 1/16" can be critical. You might experiment with more decalage (positive angle of incidence between the stabilizer and the wing). This would surely smooth out pitch stability to some degree. Looking at the Pilatus I would have guessed that it would not be a very stable flyer, especially at this size, where any imbalance of aerodynamic forces tends to be overemphasized and there is little to no aerodynamic damping in any axis. That's one reason of many why larger models fly so much better. Double the size of his model and you'd have an entirely differently flying airplane although it would still not be as stable as a similar-sized Aeronca for all of the above reasons and more. You did such an excellent job building this model and flying it well as it could be flown, I suppose. I fear that because of the above it will never be a really good flier, but it does look very nice. Thank you so much for an excellent vid.
Great video Tim! I live and breath the micro balsa rc world. I seemed to have to reengineer a lot of the kit to make them rc so I just started designing my own kits. If you want to mess around with some micro 1s brushless systems for these let me know.
Adam Salt micro 1s is my passion, me and my wife are going to start a minimum rc l-19 tomorrow. Any suggestions or can do you have any dealings with Min. Rc
Great video again! Thanx for the very informative story! What I hook on to is the registration you put on to it. It is a Dutch glider registration and not for a Swiss plane. Was this in the kit? The registration is of a ASK 21 from our neighbouring club at Axel in the Southwest of the Netherlands.
I've been kicking around a simple 2 beam hardwood longeron design to your "Yard Ace" plan. Similar to the old "Swizzle Stick" design. Also thinking about scaling it up somewhat. Something more like a 40" wingspan. I'll keep in touch about it, if you like?
Wdb: Negative, install the elevator and rudder control rods after the brick is in place inside the fuselage. Key item is to connect the control rods *before* adding all the outside 1/16" balsa stringers so you can have access. With the control rods, I think the best approach is to use two pieces of music wire, and have them overlap an inch or so near the brick. Put a section of heat shrink tubing over the overlap, adjust for neutral controls, and shrink in place. Add a touch of epoxy, an easy way get the controls hooked up. Tim
That model benefits from 1/32 sheet radius corners for the fus. Form around an arrow shaft and cut into 90 degree sections. Makes the fus look much better without the starved sagging between formers. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mmWvgy-ZI48.html
The brick is really not anything new.Back in the 1970s kraft had the brick.It was two linier servos and I think,the receiver.It was quite impressive in the 70s.Another one was the du bro V tail mixer.
Steven: Yup, I recall the old Kraft brick arrangement. Never seemed to really takeoff with the modelers, although not a bad approach. Probably just too big. Tim
