Guitar Push-Pull Wirings explained! (coil split, out of phase, series/parallel...) 

You're welcome my friend! Glad you got home safe! I'm really happy if this video helps to understand what's going on with these wirings. Cheers, Martin

Thanks a lot! I tried my very best. I'm not fully satisfied the way I described the series-parallel for 2 pickups though. I explained it a bit laboriously. Maybe I need to make a follow-up of just that one with better drawings. I still hope it helps many people! Cheers, Martin

You're welcome! Thanks a lot for the kind words. Glad you find it useful. Cheers, Martin

Thanks a lot! Glad it helped! Cheers, Martin

Hey Kevin, thanks a lot! Glad to hear it helped you. Cheers, Martin

Thanks a lot, glad you found it helpful! Cheers, Martin

Thanks a lot, glad you liked it! Cheers, Martin

Thanks a lot! Really happy when such videos help! Cheers, Martin

You're welcome! Glad you liked it! Cheers, Martin

Thanks a lot for the great feedback. Glad to hear it helped you reach your goals. Always happy to hear, when we were able to help someone with our videos. Cheers, Martin

Thanks a lot! Glad you found it helpful! Cheers, Martin

Thanks a lot, really glad it helped! Greetings to Malaysia from Austria! Cheers, Martin

You're welcome! What do you mean with your tone push-pull has only the legs? The green dots I made are connections to the housing. If you buy new mini toggles, even SPST with just two pins would do. If the housing of the mini toggle isn't metal where you can solder the ground on, you also go to a pot housing. And you don't necessarily get quieter with out of phase polarity. Frequencies cancel each other out, which makes the sound thinner and more nasal. It depends on the pickup and what Frequencies it shares with the other pickups how much of a volume drop it will be. The current wiring you have suggests, that you have exactly that out of phase polarity. As long as both single coils use the same color code for their wires. I wish I could be at NAMM. I was last year, but it isn't cheap flying across half of the world and staying there for about a week... If you happen to run into our buddy @@MusicTherapyLaz, please do me a favor and say hi! :) Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner Will gladly look for his booth tomorrow Thanks will let you when the guitar is Ready!!!

@TributeHurrikane He's not having a booth really, he's a youtuber as well. He has his wallhangers that also act as acoustic treatment at the Valiant Guitar booth, but he'll be walking around NAMM. No need to look for him, just if you happen to run into him. ;) Cheers, Martin

You're welcome! I'm glad it was of help! Absolutely, they are also DPDT switches and work essentially the same. Cheers, Martin

You're welcome, glad you found it helpful. Cheers, Martin

Thanks, glad you liked it! Cheers, Martin

Thanks a lot for the kind words! I really love many of Phil's videos, so I take this as a huuuge compliment! Thanks so much! Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner me too Martin! Thanks so much. While I have your attention, I have another question I’m installing a Dimarzio super distortion bucker with a Dimarzio push pull pot , should I install it as the volume or the tone pot ?

That's a tough question where I can't give you a definitive answer. I really like the Dimarzio Push-Pull pots and use them as volume pot as well as tone pot. They have a great taper and work very well for me in either position. I think you can't really go wrong either way. I hope this is still a satisfying answer. I would use it where you find it more natural to expect a switch. I like to have out of phase on tone controls, and coil split is more logical to me on the volume. But that's just me. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. We try to help whenever we can. Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner thanks Martin. That’s what I was thinking of putting it on the volume since I’m doing a coil split. Have a great day.

Thanks, have a great day as well! Cheers, Martin

Thanks a lot! I'm not familiar with the PUs used with the J Mascis Tele. Does one of them have 3 wires or 2 wires and a shielding? What you'd have to do is simply switch the south wire that's going to the housing of a pot with the north wire of the same PU that's going to the blade switch. That only has to be done for one pickup. If you don't have a separate ground and south of the PU, you would have to mod the PU to have this, otherwise that switching of polarity will cause the housing of the PU to be hot and it will become a lot more noisy. If you happen to touch it, it would sound the same as touching an open cable connected to an amp. From what I could find googling, those PUs have just two wires, so you would either have to get another PU, usually they sell neck PUs as 3-wire, or dare to mod yours yourself. But you see, without owning these PUs, it doesn't really make sense to do a video for your particular case, and if your PU meets the requirements, it's a 10-second video. I hope I was still able to help you. Cheers, Martin

You're welcome! I'm always happy to hear when we were able to help people with one of our videos! Thanks for taking the time to comment and brightening my day with it! Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner BRO YOUR WORK HAS AN AMAZING VALUE. THANK YOU SO MUCH AND HAVE AN AMAZING DAY

Thanks man, this means really a lot to me. Have an amazing day as well! Cheers, Martin

Thanks a lot. I guess you want the pickups to be in parallel when multiple are activated, just like on most standard wirings? Your wiring idea is really easy, actually. You wouldn't even need 6 pin on-on switches for that. 3 pin are enough. It is hard to explain though, so please contact us via mail or IG so I can send you the schematics. You may consider the on-off-on switches for your single coils if they have the ground separated from the south of the pickup. Then you can use them to invert the phase in one of the on positions. Makes the wiring a little bit more complicated, but may be cool. For the second push-pull, I would consider putting both single coils in series to form pretty much a humbucker to be a useful option. Again, if the pickups allow for that with a separated south and ground. But if that is an option, I personally would go with that over the switchable treble bleed. Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner cool ty. How do I get your email?

You're welcome. You can find it on our channel page. Cheers, Martin

Thanks a lot! Do you mean series parallel for the hotrails themselves or the in-between settings? Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner Using a volume push/pull , that i already have , down in series / up in parallel . Was thinking only bridge and neck being changed , but is it possible to switch all three using only one switch . Thank you for your input . new pu b-14.7 m-7.5 n-7.2 Note : What is your thought on turning all pick ups at the same time ?

​@@kmackissJust to make sure, do you want to have neck going into the middle and then going into the bridge in series, or do you want to have the coils of each pickup changed from series to parallel? Both is not doable with just one regular push-pull, you're lacking the switches for that. The first option, having all 3 pickups as one huge 6-coil humbucker can be done with the Fender S-1 switch, but I would advise against it with your pickups. Those would create a humbucker with 29.4k losing a lot of highs. You would also lose at least 2 positions on your 5-way switch that would get completely muted when activating that wiring. The others would be bypassed with this setting. A freeway switch would make much more sense, as you would get additional position I can see being useful. The second option takes already all the pins on your push pull for one pickup only. You could switch two together on a Fender S-1 switch, as that one is a 4PDT, but not all 3. That would require a 6PDT switch and I don't know any on pots. You would need to install a separate toggle switch for that. Cheers, Martin

Thanks a lot! Yeah, that's also a possibility. I try to preserve the original look whenever I can. But I know where you're coming from. Personally, I prefer push-pull over push-push also due to the visibility of the setting. Cheers, Martin

Hello, id like to know how to connect my neck humbucker as a single coil to my bridge pickup

@@rakistastuffs7094 some of my best wiring ideas come from the “Guns ‘n’ guitars utube channel. Once you have identified the 4wires of your pup you can use a three way DPDT switch or a push/pull pot for your full or (split) single coil sound. Best case scenario would be separate vol. pots for neck and bridge pups. The bridge pup can overpower a single coil when run together. By backing off the bridge pup vol. slightly you get a better blended tone with the neck pup when both are on.

@rakistastuffs7094 In what way on which guitar? Do you want to add it in parallel, like using just the regular LP wiring in middle position, or in series, and essentially add the 3rd coil to your humbucker? For the first one, you just need to use your regular coil split and go into the middle position, for the second, you will probably first need a way to put both pickups in series, like with a 4-way switch on an HH Tele, or a Series/Parallel switch/push-pull for the middle position. I was just thinking about another way, where you can convert the neck position into the north coil in series with the bridge with one dpdt push/pull. This will deactivate the bridge position on a 3-way toggle when active. Not sure if this is what you're thinking about. You won't have the option to use the neck split on its own with that method. It's a bit hard to describe though, so if you want that one, best would be to mail us or send a message on IG. Then I could send you schematic for that there. Cheers, Martin

@daveylee4677 I agree, but I love the middle position on Gibson style wirings in general due to the ability to fine-tune the blend of both pickups. But I think it also depends on the pickups used. The Gibson Classic 57 split is still more than capable enough to take it up with the Classic 57+ in the bridge as humbucker, for example. Cheers, Martin

The way you just described it is a little confusing to me. What you described with hot and ground inversion would be out of phase, not series/parallel. If you want series/parallel, we're talking about the wiring at 13:43. This is also possible with single coil pickups. I've mentioned the Telecaster as an example as well, that's also where I have it. However, you need at least one 3-wire pickup with separated shielding, otherwise you might get noise issues. Shielding wires always stay on a housing of the pot and need to have direct connection to the output jack GND. In this wiring, it's always PU1 that needs to be a 3-wire. If we consider the neck PU to be PU1 and the bridge PU2, you put the south wire from the neck PU to "GND PU1" on the push-pull pot. The neck pickup would need to have a separate shielding wire from the baseplate. As mentioned that one goes to the pot housing. The pin marked as "GND" goes to the housing of the pot as well. The housing is connected to the GND of the output jack. The north (hot) of the bridge pickup goes to "Hot PU2" on that schematic in the video. "PU2 hot out" would now be connected to the pin of the volume pot of the bridge PU. In series, you only have the bridge volume working now as it considers both single coil pickups togather as one pickup. If the Bridge PU is the one with a separate shielding wire, you can also use that one as PU1 and the neck as PU2. In this case it's the neck volume then that's handling both PU in series mode. And obviously everything I've explained for neck applies to bridge and vice versa. I hope this helps. If you still have questions, just let me know. Cheers, Martin

Thank you for your reply and sorry about the confusion. Both my jazz pickups each only have 2 wires. And at the time you've indicated you were showing an example with pickups that had more than 2 wires. Essentially this is what I'm going for but my push/pull volume knob is the same design as yours. sixstringsupplies.co.uk/pages/jazz-bass-wiring-series-parallel I'm not familiar with the design of this push/pull design knob. Also I'm not certain how the final wires are connected to the output jack. Would all grounds and ground wire to bridge be the same as a standard jazz bass wiring? Thank you again for your time.

The wiring you've linked is essentially the same and does exactly the same as mine. In that case Neck PU is PU1, just like I've described. You can just wire it like in my diagram and how I've described it in my comment. It will work 100% like in your link. You can do it with 2 wire pickups as well, but it's not ideal. Anything you touch that has connection to any metal part of that "PU1" will insert currents from your body into your guitar signal and cause noise. For example the mounting screws for the PU on the pickguard might have connection to ground as well as the PU magnets. I'm not too familiar with the Jazz Bass and the construction of its PUs, but if this is the case, you would have to avoid touching them in series mode. If they have no connection to your PU south, that's no issue. and you can get away with using a 2-wire PU without issues. And yes, everything else is just like with the standard Jazz Bass wiring. Regarding the grounds: If you take a look at the schematics in your link, all the black wires are grounds (or PU south, which go to ground in basic wirings). You see one black wire coming from the output jack to the housing of the tone pot. Actually it can be the housing of any pot, but usually the closest one is being used. All the pot housings are also connected together. With the Jazz Bass or the Telecaster, usually it's the metal control plate which connects them. In some cases, the plate might have some kind of finish on them, insulating them. Then you need a wire connecting all the pot housings. Like this, all the pot housings are then connected to ground via the output jack. That push pull pot is just something that reroutes your PU1 South (GND) and your PU2 North (hot) together on activation. Everything else of the wiring stays the same. You wire "PU2 hot out" where the hot of your PU2 (in your case bridge PU) is going right now in your current wiring. That should be the middle pin of the bridge volume pot. "GND" just goes to a housing that's connected to ground, which should be the case for any pot housing, as mentioned. You can wire it directly to the housing of the push/pull pot itself. Then you just place the north wire (mostly called hot) of PU2 (bridge in your case) on "Hot PU2" and the south wire (often also called ground wire) from PU1 (neck PU) on "GND PU1". Then you just need that small connection on the push/pull between the pins, drawn in blue, and you're done. Also please let me correct myself on my last comment, it's the PU1 volume that's actually controlling the volume in series mode. Don't know why I mixed them up. Probably was thinking already too far ahead while commenting. ;) If you still have questions, just go ahead and ask. Cheers, Martin

Actually, yes, you can do this with a DPDT on-on-on switch. But push-pulls are just on-on. That's why I haven't covered it in this video. Cheers, Martin

Hey J D, that heavily depends on the preamp you're using. Most preamps I know, that are used together with passive pickups, have a blend function, which is essentially a separate volume for the piezo. The passive pickup also goes into the preamp in that case. Lawrence from LPD Pedals designed one for me, that essentially acts like a buffer. With that one, I can use the out of that preamp essentially like the north wire of a passive pickup. I can't switch phase on that one or put it in series though, but it worked in the sense, that I could use it together with my magnetic pickups. However, the tone control was not as nice when using it with the piezo. The sweep was perfect for the passive ones, but didn't work to well on the out of the preamp. I need to find the time to continue with my kit builds, because I want to place that circuit in my SG Kit build. Cheers, Martin

That's a really cool plan. I really like out of phase when playing with multiple guitar players. You can thin out the sound and can still be audible without having to rely on volume and leave space for the others. So my vote would almost always go to out of phase. Cheers, Martin

I've had a Telecaster with a 4-way p'up switch for "series" configuration & now have an SG Jr with a push/pull pot for Humbucker coil split & a LesPaul Special with P90s & a push/pull pot for series. They definitely add another level to the equation.

@bradgriffith4231 Series makes your sound beefier, and out of phase does pretty much the opposite. Both are great things to have in your arsenal, depending on the guitar and your application. Cheers, Martin

Hi, I'm not surprised you found nothing. A regular push-pull is a DPDT. That's just 2 switches that are activated together, for 3 pickups you need 3. I'm not aware of any 3pdt switches. The only option I know is the S1 switch from Fender. That one has 4 internal switches activated together. With that one you can do it. You have essentially the same wiring. Cheers, Martin

Hi Philip, sorry for the late reply, I've been on vacation this weekend and just returned. With your components, this is absolutely impossible. Your main problem is the 3 way toggle switch. That one, is only capable to ABY your signal wire. So you can only ABY what is coming from your two inputs, and you will have to do pickup characteristic changes before they get to it. This means, you can't have your bridge PU as Humbucker when on its own, but split in the middle position, let alone get them to work in series. A 5 way blade switch offers a lot more flexibility in these regards as it operates two electrical switches at the same time, and you have more inputs. With the 5 way super switch, even 5 separate inputs, where you can rewire things to them. But even then, series is a rather complicated one to fit in, as it essentially combines two pickups to act like one, tackling the south of one pickup and the north of both, one going to the output, and the other to the previously mentioned south. But there is an option that might be OK for you. It wouldn't be exactly the way you described it, but it would at least offer all your desired tone options and is still fairly simple (imho). Take a look at the Freeway switches. With the 3x3-05 it looks doable. (For info, link immediately downloads the PDF for me, the first wiring is the one you want.) www.freewayswitch.com/app/download/7524785115/3X3-05+2PU+2Pot+PP+B.pdf?t=1499335068 As mentioned, it would not be the handling you described, but you can at least get all of the tones you've described without the need of multiple push-pulls and combinations of them. Cheers, Martin

Wow! Thank you so much for the lightning fast reply! This is awesome. Funny enough when I did the shopping I stumbled over the Freeway switch and was very intrigued! It seemed like a little too steep a learning curve at the time and actually was sold out when I finally made my decisions but now I'll go with it and learn what I can along the way! What I like is that it actually makes switching even less of a hustle, having just to flick the switch instead of activating the push/pull as well. I always enthuse about things being highly applicable to live settings and I think with a bit of practice one can dial in the different positions accurately. I'll keep the push/pull for another project then - or maybe expand on the original ideas :) I learned a lot about the internal workings from your comment; thanks for explaining things so well! And also for the wiring scheme! Much appreciated!!

I would still need the push/pull for coil splitting if I'm not mistaken?

@@philipwacker4629 Hi Philip, you're welcome! Always glad to hear if I was able to help and educate. After rereading your comment, I'm not so sure anymore if I understood your requirements correctly. My understanding was that you wanted the following options: Set1: Neck split Neck + Bridge in series, both split Bridge split Set2: Neck Humbucker Neck + Bridge parallel (normal) but split Bridge Humbucker But after rereading I understand it as following: Set1: Neck Humbucker Neck + Bridge in series, both split Bridge Humbucker Set2: Neck Coils in Parallel Neck + Bridge parallel (normal) but split Bridge Coils in Parallel The first one would be covered by the wiring mentioned in my initial answer, and yes, that would require a push-pull to get the split positions. I think it would be fairly straight forward to use as well. You might also consider a push-push to have it easier to switch between coil split mode and humbucker mode. It might be possible with one of the other switches too, but they don't have a diagram that would fit right away and I would have to tinker quite a bit to find a solution. But I don't think that would be worth the time, as I imagine handling it with just that coil split mode on an extra switch (push-pull or push-push) would make handling really easy on that one, and everything else I would come up with would be more inconvenient and confusing. However, the second option, as I understood it now, would be covered by the 3x3-05 switch: www.freewayswitch.com/app/download/7524784615/3X3-05+2PU+2Pot+A.pdf?t=1499335068 It's the 3rd wiring from the top. Set 1 would be handled with the positions 1-3 and set 2 with the positions 4-6. Funny enough, they would be just in the order you requested them and also no push-pull required on that one. Given I understood you correctly on this. You can also have a look at the other diagrams of them: www.freewayswitch.com/schematics-toggle/ Maybe you find an option you like even more. :) Cheers, Martin

Yes exactly, I was thinking of the second option! Really happy it's right there as an option! - and even with just the need of the switch. Might continue to ponder over it but I really like the idea to have loudness levels similar across the 3 position of the switch and gradually blend from one pickup to the other - or from coils at the end of the strings further down the middle as it would be in parallel mode. I usually never use both humbuckers simultaneously but would like some strat-y tones out of a LP. Think it might be extremely versatile this way. Once again, thank you wholeheartedly! :)

It is absolutely doable, however, I'm not sure why you want this very specific configuration. The regular middle position you will find on pretty much any two pickup guitar is parallel. In series you will always lose the position where PU1 isn't in use, as PU2 does not have a connection anymore to the normal circuit. It will always have to go through PU1 to get to the output when you're in series mode and that's obviously not possible if you have a position where that one is not connected to the output. I would expect the "regular" settings, where everything works "normal" to be with the push pulls pressed. But that's your choice. If you want the function of pushed/pulled inverted you just need to mirror the wiring upside down or turn it by 180°. Both work equally fine. As for the coil split in combination with series-parallel, you will want to use V2 of the coil split that I've mentioned. The "New GND" of your PU1 will then be connected to "GND PU1" of your tone push-pull. Keep in mind, you can decide which pickup is PU1 and which one is PU2. You'll just have to stick with it. Cheers, Martin

Just noticed, if you're talking about series parallel of the coils in the PU itself (Series/Prallel on Pickup), then unfortunately not. That one requires both switches of the push pull to control one PU, so you can't switch both PU with only one push-pull. An S1-Switch from Fender would be capable of something like that, as it's 4 switches activated at the same time instead of the 2 of regular push-pull switches. Obviously, you also wouldn't be able to coil split and put the PU themselves in parallel at the same time. Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner This was what I had in mind. Thanks a lot for replying. Much appreciated..

@@Kevin-nr9lj You're welcome! If you have any other questions, feel free to ask again or even request a video. I enjoy creating this kind of content the most, as I think it offers the most use to the community. Much more so than a review of something of which there probably already exist a couple already. Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner Yes, this type of content is very useful for ppl who want to get into guitar electronics. Thanks for the service..

You're welcome. I'm glad it helped. Thanks for commenting! Cheers, Martin

Depends on the Humbuckers you have. You need one with at least 3 wires (or 2 wires + shielding) where the south is separated from the ground that is connected to the pickup frame. Then, you need to do just the wiring, as explained in our video. You only need that on one pickup. You connect that one to the push-pull that has the wiring as explained and go from the outs of that push-pull further on, just like these would be the wires of the pickup. With out of phase, you just switch north and south of a pickup. It's really simple and a luthier not figuring that out would make me suspicious of his capabilities tbh. You can also take a look at the master volume wiring tutorial, I'm also using a push-pull there for out of phase. I think that one visualizes very well how an insertion of an out of phase switch into a wiring works and how it has pretty much no impact on the rest of the wiring. Cheers, Martin

D'Marzio has a wiring diagram for a push/pull volume pot for series phasing 2 Humbuckers. You can't change "phasing" of a single Humbucker but you can coil split it with a push/pull pot. Phasing is for changing 2 p'ups from parallel to series, essentially creating a Humbucker from 2 single coils.

Before I give you a suggestion, I would like to know if your single coil PU is 3-wire and you have a separated ground and south wire. Depending on this I would make different suggestions. Cheers, Martin

Call Stew-Mac. They know the answer & will draw you a custom wiring diagram for a fee.

HI George, Thanks for commenting. It depends on what you want to do. You can split both humbuckers together with just one push-pull, or you can get a little more flexible with separate push-pulls to split each humbucker separately. If you want to do the latter, I would suggest going right for the Jimmy Page wiring. We have a tutorial for that one on our channel. It would also include a series/parallel push-pull and Series + Out of Phase + split neck is one of my absolute favorite sounds on my 335 with just that wiring. When splitting the coil, you usually keep the north coil. Otherwise, you would need to invert the phase of that pickup first before splitting. That'd make the controls rather complicated. You can wire your out of phase before the coil split of one pickup and use the V1 coil split wiring. This will allow you to have the north coil when split in phase and the south coil when split out of phase. If you've still got more questions, feel free to ask. I would like to avoid doing a whole diagram, as the purpose of this video was to teach you how each of these functions works and how you would stack them and make the diagrams yourselves from this. However, feel free to send me a mail with the diagram for me to check it. I think that'd be more beneficial for you to understand what's going on.

@@LMGuitarCorner Thank you very much for the quick reply! I will send you an email soon as soon as I decide what exactly I want, to sort out everything I saw in your video. Subscribed!

You're welcome. Yeah, just take your time and contact me when you're ready. As mentioned, there is a whole step by step tutorial for one of the ways to do the Jimmy Page wiring on our channel. It's not as short and concise as my later ones for the Telecaster wirings, but I'm still proud of my work there and confident, anyone should be able to do it with the help of that video. Thanks a lot for the subscription, really appreciate it! Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner Hi Martin! Oh yeah, I saw the Jimmy Page wiring video yesterday and I really liked it. I think I can build it by faithfully following the diagram corrected by you, but I still don't understand how you make it with so few wires, it's unbelievable! I already ordered 4 push-pull pots, I have some capacitors, cables and everything else needed. As you already understood, my English is poor and I don't exactly understand the description in the JP wiring video, but if you help me it will be easier for me. Thanks again, Cheers, George

@georgeg4136 I think your English is fine, but I'm no native speaker either. If you go through it, step by step, I'm sure you'll manage. I've got pictures there from each connection and all color coded. Cheers, Martin

I'm having trouble following exactly how you want that wiring to be. Am I assuming right that you want the following with the push-pull pressed: Neck: Humbucker Middle: Inner coils of both humbucker parallel Bridge: Humbucker And with the push-pull pulled: Neck: Humbucker parallel Middle: Inner coils of both humbucker parallel Bridge: Humbucker Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner Pulled: Neck = Humbucker Neck Parallel Middle = Both Inner Coils Bridge = Bridge Inner Coil Pushed: Neck = Neck Humbucker Series Middle = Both Humbucker Series Bridge = Bridge Humbucker Series Basically wanted to achieve this without a 5 way and with an inner coil bridge option: www.ibanez.com/common/product_artist_file/file/puswitch_3.png

Unfortunately I don't see this being possible with just one push-pull. The series-parallel push pull would already take up all the pins of the DPDT switch, so you have no option to add a coil split. You can put two coil split on one push pull which would give you the closest to what you want. I also don't see how you could get just one coil of a parallel wired humbucker. If you ground one coil, you ground both. With push pulls, you just switch the wiring of that humbucker and then go into the rest of the wiring as if it was now that other kind of pickup. It's a different thing, if you're doing that on a 5 way switch, because on each position you can go for a different configuration. To sum it up, the closest thing you can get is the following: Pulled: Neck = Neck Inner Coil Middle = Both Inner Coils Bridge = Bridge Inner Coil Pushed: Neck = Neck Humbucker Middle = Both Humbucker Bridge = Bridge Humbucker That would be splitting both humbucker together on one push-pull. Left switch bridge, right one neck or vice versa. Whatever works better. I have this on my PRS Style Kit build. Cheers, Martin

Anything is possible IF you can find the wiring diagram. Stew-Mac will draw you a custom diagram for a fee. D'Marzio gave me a diagram, that was originally for Humbuckers, for a push/pull volume pot for series with my LP Special with P90 single coils.

@bradgriffith4231 Sorry, that's nonsense. Some things are simply not doable because you're lacking the amount of switches you would need. For example, someone asked today if it's possible to coil split 3 humbuckers with one push-pull. It's not possible with your normal push-pull as you need a 3pdt switch. However, you can do it with Fenders S1 Switch, which is a 4pdt. But you would have to work with another component. OP specifically asked for a 3-way switch, but that one is the limiting factor in this. Cheers, Martin

What kind of push pull wiring would you like to use? But in general, no, none of the wirings will cause phase problems as long as you wire them up correctly. If you insert that one, it's just like you'd modify that pickup when pulled, and then you consider the output wires of the push-pull as new pickup wires. Only the phase switch will cause a phase inversion when activated, but then it's intentional. The series wiring will cause one position to not work and override the other two. Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner basically it’s a tele bridge (normal 2 wire) with a mini switch dpdt, standard pots, and 4 conductor neck pickup. Both Seymour duncans. Just wanting the neck pu to be series/parallel. To be able to use the guitar as single/ humbucker and then switched to single/single… sort of. But not tap coil because I like the hum cancel of parallel

@RicketyKrickett Sorry for the late reply, just came home from vacation. As mentioned in my first reply, I see no issues with what you're planning. If you're not making a mistake during the wiring, then there should not be an issue at all with that. Just make sure to check SD's color code for the wires to place the right ones in the right place. This is the part where most issues happen. Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner the wiring came out fine, but I think I have a bad pot. All my grounds tested fine for conductivity. From the bridge to the switch to the output. But there’s a nasty static pop when I touch metal. I tried touching up cold solder joints and it’s still there. So changing out pots now

That doesn't sound like a bad pot to me. Is it such a popping noise, like when you touch the tip of your cable? When you say bridge, are you talking about the pickup, or actually the bridge? Can you measure the resistance between the affected metal parts and the output? Does it differ for Strings, Control plate, pickup covers? Cheers, Martin

You're welcome. I didn't find a schematic, but I had a look at the Wiki page of it and what the function of these is. The way I understand it, is, that each of the toggle switches is used to activate or deactivate one of the pickups which would make the wiring really easy. The pickups will be directly connected to the toggle switches. With the DPDTs, there are two ways you can do this. One is to completely take the pickup out of the circuit, or still have it grounded. There shouldn't really be much of a difference. If you keep it grounded, just connect all grounds and south wires with the output ground. Otherwise also connect them to one switch of one of the DPDT toggleswitches. Then the output in the "on" position of all toggle switches will be wired to the master volume-master tone circuit in parallel. This means, all "hot" of the toggle switches go together to the master volume pot, just like you would have with a 1 pickup, 1 volume, 1 tone setup. The push-push coil split is just like the push-pull coil split explained in my video. That one goes in between the humbucker and the toggle switch that's assigned to it, just like described in the video. I hope this helps, otherwise you can still contact me via mail or IG (both is on our channel page) and I can make you a diagram based on your preferred way of wiring it. What I don't know is, if they used 50s or modern wiring with maybe a treble bleed. Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner Thank you very much for the time you took to search for it, I will definitely send you and email with pictures of the switches and the tone- push on, and yes a wiring diagram will be really helpful, Thanks you, do you have any fees for the diagram?

@@TributeHurrikane You're welcome! No, not at all. I just hope to be helpful to the community. Cheers, Martin

Hi Martin tried to reply an email with some parts and pictures information but is said can't be delivered email address doesn't exist do you have another email I can send the information, for the wiring diagram you can help me with, Thanks

@TributeHurrikane I just tested it myself copied from the channel information, and it worked without issues. I'm fairly sure you must have had a typo in the mail address. It's a long one and not really ideal, we know. Please check again. Cheers, Martin

So it's just a grounding issue. Another quick question, are both pickup wires of each pickup going to the toggle switches or just the red one of each? With that information I can pinpoint the exact wiring and I'll be drawing it up for you, upload it on the cloud and then answere here with the link. I might be able to do that this weekend. Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner Hi Martin the way they are connected now is the middle pick up has 3 wires , bare and red are connected to the bottom of the switch ground, and the white to one of top switches which is bridged, the neck has also 3 wires but this one the bare and white are connected to bottom of switch ground and the red is connected to the top of the switch leg which is also bridged, the Dimarzio I plan to install they only have two wires Black and red they don't have bare wire.

@@TributeHurrikane This means that the neck and the middle are out of phase with each other. With just two wires and no separated shielding, I would not advise to do that. So in these regards, I would suggest to switch the wiring a little bit and not put these out of phase. You can mod the pickups to have the ground separated from the south, but you could ruin the pickup doing that, so I don't recommend doing it, if you're not 100% certain that you can manage that. I will now draw you the wiring diagram without "out of phase" of these pickups. Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner so is better if I get single pick ups with 3 wires one for the ground?

If you want that out of phase sound, yes, if you don't care for that, then no. I don't know if the wiring you described is original on that part. If someone else made it, it could very well be that the wiring I'm drawing just at this moment is actually the original one, and they simply made a mistake. Or the pickups were not RWRP, and someone wanted to have this position noise canceling and didn't care for the change in sound due to the pickup being out of phase. You can listen to the out of phase effect in this video. It would be very similar. Cheers, Martin

So you have just one volume, no other controls, and you want to select the pickup with the push-pull. Did I guess this right?

@@LMGuitarCorner hey yeah it's only one volume push pull knob with an old 3 wire red white ground humbucker and single coil with treble bleed it came soldered to this Hondo chiquita and I'd like to set it up so the one volume knob would split between pickups instead and where I should maybe put the treble bleed. Thanks for the reply eh! 🤟🏻

@daneandrews6218 Then you will just need the pickup switching wiring, then you can either select the neck or the bridge with the push-pull. The treble bleed is just your regular treble bleed circuit, completely aside from the push-pull. There are several treble bleed circuits, just a cap, cap and resistor parallel and also cap and resistor series. I don't know which one you prefer. Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner I believe the treble bleed I have would be called a Duncan. I'm just waiting for a new push pull knob and going to try and put it all back together

@daneandrews6218 I haven't heard of a "Duncan", do you mean Kinman? www.seymourduncan.com/blog/latest-updates/3-popular-treble-bleed-mods-what-you-need-to-know Cheers, Martin

Very good question! Thanks for asking as this could be another video we can make. There are two options. The first one is to achieve this with the out of phase in addition, but that would also change the middle position, obviously. The second one requires you to switch, the output between "south finish" and "north start" and also combine the two "finish" in the pressed state while removing their connection in the pulled state. The wiring would then look like this: drive.google.com/file/d/1GJZp4wNiZvGucHeCasVqC2vM35QdNRhJ/view The north coil would then not be connected at all to the rest of the wiring, not even to any ground. Cheers, Martin

Just noticed that I've mirrored the push pull as I've looked on it the wrong way when making the wiring. In the way I did draw it, it would be split in the pressed state and as humbucker when pulled. To change this, the connections on the bottom would need to be on the top pins and vice versa. I will make an updated version when I get to it. Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner why does it look very different from this: cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-fxdzp2uudp/images/stencil/500x659/products/2341/5520/WD1H10_02_WB__96161.1487883965.jpg?c=2 - are both effective methods? Will the diagram I linked work if I also use a 3 way toggle switch and a single coil in the neck position? (I’m working on a jazzmaster)

You can do both methods, however, I expect the one you've linked to be not "as clean". My method takes the complete north coil out of the circuit. It's not connected to anything when you pull the push-pull. In the one you've linked, you essentially shortcut the north coil, but not to ground, to the "hot" of the south coil. This means, in theory, it can still leak something into your signal, even though it's extremely low compared to the actual signal. Both methods work, however, I consider mine superior. The other one on the other hand allows you to put two coil splits on one push-pull. Sorry for the late reply, YT blocked your message due to it containing a link and I just noticed it now. Cheers, Martin

As promised, the corrected wiring of mine where the pushed state is the humbucker mode and the pulled is the south coil. Sorry for the delay, I honestly forgot about it: drive.google.com/file/d/1DhJXSXjQ2ddygi1HvK-7G0jzgfEH-o06/view?usp=sharing Cheers, Martin

Hi, depends on what you want to do with the push pull. Coil Split, Coil Parallel or Treble Bleed On/Off are the possibilities that immediately come to my mind with a single Humbucker guitar. Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner coil split sir

@Rizky No need to call me sir. If you don't plan to add any other push-pulls or switches, the easiest and most common way is the one shown at about 2:28. You can just make the wiring you want, and in the end, place the middle wires of the pickup you want to split on the middle pin of a push pull switch and ground the pin closer to the pot like shown in the schematics. We also have a short on our channel explaining coil split on an actual pot. If this helps you, we'd appreciate a sub, if you haven't already. Cheers, Martin

@L&M Guitar Corner okaayy thank you so much

Glad I could be of help! Thanks for the sub! If you need anything else, feel free to ask. Cheers, Martin

@Wolfamancer97 Yes, it's a simple DPDT on-on switch. Instead of a push-pull, you can place these wirings also on a small toggle switch of this type. Cheers, Martin

@@LMGuitarCorner thanks

@@Wolfamancer97 You're welcome! Cheers, Martin

Sorry for the confusing labeling. I meant middle position with humbuckers out of phase. Out of phase is only possible with two coils interacting with each other, so some kind of middle position. On a strat that would be Pos 2 and 4 for example. Cheers, Martin

Why not simply ask for that picture? I can have a look at home if I still have it and upload it to our drive. I didn't think of that because my intention was not to provide wiring diagrams. It was to educate people how and why they work the way they do so they can figure them out themselves with knowing what a coil split does, for example. Cheers, Martin