Thanks for the review, friend. I’ve had the Iwata Revolution for 10 years - just broke it out tonight, after a four year hiatus. I love its control, but have the EXACT SAME kind of hand weirdness as you. With my meat hooks, it feels like the thing will go squirting out of my grip every time i use it! Looks like the TRN1 will be a more natural feel. I’m an N scale model railroader, and I was worried about creating a wider pattern then the Revolution. You answered that on your envelope. Thanks again!
As usual a very good video, learnt a few interesting things about my new Airbrush, thanks Mr Foxx! Just started to use mine, after getting it for Christmas and finally setting up my spray booth. Just trying to learn paint consistency and technique, had a few problems so far this morning but I’ll get there. I much prefer the trigger compared to the usual top control; a lot more ergonomic.
Regarding your other Iwata airbrush that does not have the adjustable tail piece limit adjuster: All Iwata airbrushes use the same thread and rear geometry. You can order an adjustable end from the Super Micron series and install it on a lower model such as a Revolution, that is delivered with a plain tail piece. I use siphon bottle fed HP-BCS with a tail piece from a Super Micron. It gives me the control I need along with the supply from bottles.
Very nice video! Cant believe its 8 years old haha. Is this still one of the better trigger airbrushes out there? I want to get one myself as i am struggling with a normal type of airbrush.
@@gurufoxx Very tempted to pick one up! I saw some good ones from Gaahleri as well but I've always been told that Iwata's quality is just a whole other level than these chinese new brands haha. Thank you for the quick reply!
Mr Guru, I have pain in my joints in my hand and I know the trigger model will help immensely. It's been 4 years since this video, how has this piece held up? Were you able to get finer lines with some practice? And were you able to kajiger an airbrush holder to work? Would love to hear back from you!
Indeed you may find a trigger brush much more feasible and tolerable. I still use my Neo as my go-top default brush and I still massively recommend it. You can get fine work with it but only as far as fine goes for a .35 brush OBVS :) I could no doubt make some sort of holder from wire for it, but I am far too lazy and I just dangle if off of my regular holder any way I can :)
@@gurufoxx Thank you so much, Mr Guru! I will be picking this up soon! I currently work with the Neo Eclipse, so I'm familiar with the brand and the basics. Looking forward to shooting paint more comfortably soon!
@@JoesGunpla Yay! I think you will enjoy it :) If I may be sold bold as to humbly recommend my Amazon store where it is available, that would be a big help for my channel ^_^
Good video just brought a trn1 cost £140 but looking forward to getting it and trying it out. It will be my first attempt at spraying so looking forward to it. Like you I have bad hands due to rheumatoid arthritis so this might be just right. Great video learnt from it
I don't see why not, you can use it for anything when you need spraying, Although it's a .35mm nozzle which is small but maybe not small enough for any really tiny super-fine work, you might need to go for a brush with a smaller nozzle if you'll be doing lots of tiny stuff.
Nice airbrush. I'm like you, top triggers are harder for me also. I have a trigger grip airbrush (Grex) and I love the trigger type. Lot easier to control.
I got one of these after watching this great airbrush. works well for my hands which are bad. Do you clean it in ultrasonic cleaner if you do what do you use for cleaning thanks
it is great for awkward hands :) I do not use ultrasonic cleaners as they are not really that good and can over time damage the airbrush - and they are not recommended for this kind of brush anyway where you cannot easily strip the trigger assembly apart. Just make sure to clean it properly and regularly with airbrush cleaners or thinners and airbrush cleaning tools and brushes after every spraying session, get into that habit, and there will be no need for ultrasonic nonsense ^_^
it's only ptfe you can buy liquid ptfe to reseal your nozzle cap if it breaks down only need a drip and capillary action will reseal it. so don't worry about that red seal if it degrades. ptfe liquid can get anywhere
+Modelmaking Guru liquid ptfe isn't expensive bt yes roll and slice job done use it for work I found the red stuff on the neo will degrade after every clean so worth getting g some
@@RowanTownModelRailway Yep, it is still my go-to airbrush, I use it for pretty much everything that can go thorough a .35 nozzle and I much prefer it to regular button airbrushes ^_^
Necrobump time ... It's nice when they include the various sizes of paint cups ... but personally, I'll always go with the largest available. Yes, I may only be spraying a drop or two, but the larger cup lets me move it around more without worry about(#voiceofexperienceincoming) spilling black stynlyrez primer on my good blue jeans.
As a master of forgetting to put the damn lid on airbrush cups, I have 100% understanding of such trouser situation. And yes, I never use the smaller cups, I am far too lazy to start farting about with smaller cups, just slap paint in whatever cup is on the brush and get painting!
Absolutely! I still own the exact same brush and it is STILL my daily driver :) I've never even had to do any maintenance on it aside from replacing the occasional bent needle ^_^ As I cannot use regular button brushes and am limited to trigger brushes, this is the best one I have ever used.
If I have a iwata .5 needle and a old .5 nozzle from a different brush can I use that nozzle for my new .5 needle? Sorry if that's a confusing question
It's highly likely that parts not specifically designed for your make and model of airbrush would be incompatible. The nozzle will not be tooled to thread perfectly into the body of your Iwata airbrush and with them being very delicate any attempt to attach it or get it to fit it may shear the thread off leaving half the nozzle screwed into your head unit (meaning you would have to buy a new one head unit AND a nozzle). Best to stick to one manufacturer, or parts deigned specifically for that make and model of airbrush, for replacing parts.
I haven't, Testor's is not a brand that is readily available over here in the UK. But I assume they will either be water based or alcohol based, making them similar to Vallejo (water) or Tamiya (alcohol) paints.
I do so regularly, normal thinners (UMP, X20A etc) for acrylic paints should be fine and not do any harm. Just avoid using lacquers, lacquer thinners, enamels and any thinners for enamels/oils (i.e.IPA, lighter fluid, mineral spirits, odourless thinners or turps).
Could elaborate on this, Mr Guru? I've always been told to stick to Tamiya thinners with their paints, and not to use UMP, as as good as it is (did I say "as" enough?), it won't work with Tamiya chemistry. On the flip side, a lot of modellers (including Will Pattison) recommend using MLT or Tamiya Lacquer thinner with Tamiya acrylics. Is there something in lacquers that won't play well with seals etc in this airbrush? Thanks!!
Nice AirBrush. I want a trigger instead of the button. I use a sheeper under bottle feed Air Brush for large cover part with no detail, And Used to use a *Evolution* Air Brush for most part (real nice Air Brush, have that for 6-7yr never any problem). But i sold that. :/ Now im back again but with a *Iwata* *HP-B.* haven't tried it yet, Need to find a compressor. With button, the Air Brush move slightly up in the front when push button back. Not much just Millimeter, I dont like the tiny movement. And my hand hurt after 2-3hr and 10-15cm up in the arm. I paint Graffiti on Hoodies and shirts for most part, with textile paint and run the iron on it.
Nice videos! I'm also working on a 1/60th scale kit, one question though: What kind of primer do I have to use when I want to spray lacquer paint from, for instance, Gaia Color? I have Vallejo acrylic white and a grey primer btw, but heard lacquer eats through acrylic like a drop of dish soap in a greased pan.
Hmm, not too sure as I have never used lacquer paints, but I can't imagine the paints will be too friendly to acrylic primers like those. I would say in this case stick with a primer from that brand as it will be designed to work with those paints. Make sure to be very careful with lacquer paints, if you don't have a spray booth in a very well ventilated room, AND a proper respirator mask (NOT a dust mask) I wouldn't recommend them for the sake of your health.
No worries! I know lots of pelple prefer lacquers for their finish, but personally if I have to use lots of special things to stop a paint dissolving my model, I'll use something less destructive instead :) The one exception would be Alclad paints for metallics, of course, but in my build area lacquer paints are not an option ^_^
The TRN is a low-pressure brush so will work happily with most compys, to be honest, no need to spend a fortune. I do recommend at the bare minimum a compy with a moisture trap and an air reservoir tank though, I you can afford it. If you are in the US, I have a number of options in my Amazon store; see which fits your budget best ^_^ www.amazon.com/shop/modelmakingguru?listId=3N1Z5R9SP26DU
what type of compressor did you use? and i live on the Uk and im starting my business and your stating facts that with the trigger is better control do you have any compressor recommendations in UK shops or amazon
I am using a generic AS-189 style compressor, they are usually available under a billion different brand names as they are the cheap and cheerful Chinese knock-off type compressor. Not the best but also not too expensive. As compressors go it is the one place where you can get away with cheap and cheerful :) Really, as long as you get something with a tank, moisture trap and variable pressure (if it is an on-demand compressor then a tank is not as urgent) then you are good to go. I would say get the best you can afford. I have a selection in my Amazon store: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/modelmakingguru?listId=3H1GRZM85WKA0
Honestly, I have no idea as when I filmed this I was using a compressor that had a fixed (unknown) pressure that was not adjustable. Now though. typically I stick to around 20psi for most paints, 15psi for thinner paints like metallics and enamels, and around 12psi for Pledge gloss varnish. For primers and very thick metallic paints, I can go up to 25psi. It depends on the thickness of the paint you are trying to push through the brush, and is never the same for different airbrushes and compressors so you would need to treat those as guidelines only and experiment to see what works best for your equipment.
Well, this video is almost 6 years old and AFAIK Master brushes were not around available to the UK at that time and so I had never even heard of them ^_^
A cheap shiity teeny tiny Sparmax with no pressure control or moisture trap or air tank - you can basically turn it on or off...I need to get a proper, decent big-boy grown up compressor at some point, but the one i have still works okay, so I won't spend that money just yet ^_^
I'm using my Normal neo just now it's got a sticky trigger cant get it working atoll! Getting abit annoyed with it now haha! It's just letti air to continue and slowly slides up bit take ages! It's a fairly new o ring and its clean throughout maybe need get a better lub lol
@@Emtbtoday Most likely it just needs a good clean out. If any paint or stuff gets in the trigger mechanism it can get sticky - just strip it down and give it a good going over (the whole brush, the the trigger can also get stuck on other things like the needle for example). The lube that comes with it should be fine and you only need the tiniest of drops on the trigger mechanism.
@@gurufoxx I thought that to the AB is spotless and the seal I'm using another one what a di but need to try a new o ring it's like its clicking and locking when pressed, sure the o ring looks swollen to the others its really thick its only ha since left an enamel thinner in to soften the crap up and its destroyed the seal I think! But its definitely thicker like its swollen up maybe the thinners eating away at the rubber I'll try a new o ring and see
@@Emtbtoday It might well be that, but ideally there shouldn't be any residue or need for cleaning around that area. paint and thinners shouldn't be getting there in the first place. Good luck with the fix :)
It just seals the gap so you you don;t get bubbles coming out of the side - it can be easily fixed, just pop you your local hardware or plumbing store and grab some plumber's PTFE tape - wrapping a little bit of that around the thread should seal it nicely (it's what plumbers put around threads on pipes and taps ^_^)
hey could u recommend paints and air brushes for me because i'm thinking of buying them and i don't know anything about those things it would be very helpful for me
That's a simple question with a VERY long answer. Airbrushing requires a certain amount of learning, and although it is not hard, it does take a little getting used to, so I would recommend starting off with a good starter airbrush first before you spend lots of money on a professional one, to give you something to practice on. I would avoid the cheap Chinese knock-offs you can find on eBay as they will fall apart after a week. You might like to look at some of the cheaper brushes from Iwata or Badger to start out - the Iwata Neo (not the trigger one in this video but the version with a traditional button trigger) is fairly cheap and a great little brush to start with, easy to use and super simple to clean. Just make sure that the brush is gravity-feed (i.e. the paint cup is on the top, NOT on the side (side-feed) or a jar underneath (suction-feed) as both those types are a pain in the ass to clean up and you'll be put off easily) and dual-action (i.e. push down for air, pull back for paint). For air supply, you can use air cans designmed for such a purpose but they can work out expensive in the long run and as the can empties the pressure drops, so if you start with air cans I would think about investing in a compressor as soon as you can, and for simplicity stick to a compressor from the same brand as the airbrush (Although the little cheap Sparmax compressors are okay to start out with). As for paints, by far the easiest to use are the Tamiya acrylics, although I would also recommend the Ammo by Mig acrylics (although they are a little fussier to use, you have to build up in misty layers or risk getting an orange peel paint surface) or Vallejo Air acrylics. Whichever are easier for you to get in your country.
thanks and if wanted to do some dry brushing and panel lines what kind of paints do you recommend tamiya acrylics or enamel paints and gunk wash looks good do you have any recommendation? sorry about all these questions your awesome
You can dry brush with any paint, but for gunk washing only oil paint will work ^_^. Panel lines are usually easiest with thinned enamels done as a pin wash because they take a while to dry so you can clean up any areas paint leaves the panel line. Oils also work for panel lines, but I find oils to give a more grainy texture. Just make sure when doing panel lines as a pin wash like this, you apply a gloss varnish to the model first to help the thinned paint flow properly.
Dunno, to be honest. My brother is the same. Which meant it was a few violin lessons before I realised vibrato was not an option ^_^ I tried looking it up but I can't find out anything about it, other than sometimes after fractures or laceration the distal phalanx does not move, but I have never had such injuries, with me it is by design. I just have to remember that it's best not to punch anyone, I'd just break all my fingers ^_^
That basically suggests one of three things: either your paint is too thick (50/50 paint/thinner for tamiya paints is a good ratio - remember the neo is only a .35mm nozzle so unthinned Tamiya paint (or other acrylics) may just be too thick) or your pressure is too low (around 20psi, if you can set the pressure, maybe 25psi at the very most), or the brush is clogged up and it needs a DAMN good clean out. Get yourself some little airbrush cleaning brushes to really get inside the tube in the main body, and let the nozzle soak in some thinner or airbrush cleaner for a while, If it is REALLY clogged with old paint, as a last resort see if you can get some Carson Paint KIller and flush a small amount through it). Also make sure you have a moisture trap on the compressor or an in;-line on attached to the airbrush as getting moisture in the air from, the compressor is common and will give you splatty paint and water coming out with the paint.
+Modelmaking Guru plus this was from new out the box I've given it a good clean I'll try more tests my compressor can go up to 60 psi lol but OK I'll try some playing around thanks bud
