Thanks Georgios, it's gonna take me a minute because I have yet to acquire the regulator, terminals, or even the wiring. I am going to follow Daniel Martin's video as close as I can, but some things he just didn't describe. All it should be is extending the signal from the new regulator to the new stator, but we will see.
An 8 pole half wave can be modifyed to run on full wave. All you need to buy is a full wave rectifier, 10 bucks, and a soldering iron. Putting an 11 or 12 pole stator will charge better. I'm only saying this so that people know it can be done cheaper and it works well. Not trying to belittle your video. It's good.
That's okay Charles, I gave the credit in my next video for the genius that recorded that process on RU-vid. I just don't have the skills to pull it off, but I do shared what I can.
Hey brother I have a question for you. Do all three yellow wires from the stator have to run all the way to the rectifier? Because I combined the three yellow wires to the one yellow wire from my stock harness.
Puffs, bro real talk...I don't know enough about wiring to tell you. As you can see in the next video, I duplicated Daniel Martin's work, and had to seek help just to understand what I was wiring beyond what he showed. I replaced my rectifier because to pull off the 11-pole upgrade, this was probably the easy way to go about it. Sorry bro.
Yeah this isn't going to immediate, I have to order the new regulator, wiring, and terminals...then learn what the hell I'm doing. This could go either way bro. Normally the DC CDI is huge, are you sure?
@@kachiskid yeah brother that dame quantum is different because of the LED, their Dc racing CDI on Amazon on $25 to 30, I'm most likely going to wait until she blow LOL !
Kachi's Kid uhm I believe if the new one is DC then the regulator just cleans or conditions the electrical signal, see with a DC stator it’s constantly picking up a solid electrical signal, that is sent to the DC CDI and the pickup coil then tells the DC CDI when to collapse the circuit on the primary ignition coil, AC stators use a rectifier I believe?? To convert the signal to DC. Either way an 11 pole DC Stator is a wise idea, not only will it generate more consistent current, but it will also increase amps that can be used for accessories and charging the battery. I might do this upgrade to my Pegasus 150 road scooter
@@phildoethedildoe See, I was thinking that the regulator and rectifier were the same thing. I must be wrong then, I thought the signal was DC from the stator and that is sent to the rectifier and changed to AC to send the signal to the AC CDI. Got more home work to do...yeah 11 pole is the way to go, just wish I had the right wiring harness to accept it. This is ridiculous...lol.
Lol. Yeah I didn't know either, well actually Daniel Martins video was one of the 1st ones I watched when I wanted to change to the 11-pole. When I saw The Ruck Shop's video I assumed it didn't have to be changed out. I think it will be worth the trouble in the end. I want to make it as clear as possible, and show the work.
The best bet is change the whole harness and rectifier ect.if you dont and then have any problems no one will be able to help you diagnose future problems
Can you explain why 10 poles have the copper wiring and one does not? I found that interesting, same thing with the 8-pole stator, only 7 are wired. Just curious. Great beat! And who doesn't love Stewie's sarcasm? :)
So if you don't mind ! What's the newer stator going to due for the scoot bro . Because I be a copy cat & cheat off your vid lol Then you can give me pointers changing that beast on that 2019 harness that I can't even run CDI upgrades nor remote start lol . This will crack you up had litte bred left over so I order a 4valve big bore head kit crazy so much to be know! But anyways bear of luck & Godspeed ( I Have faith in ya 💯😎
Thanks bro, the new stator will give me more power (no rpm's) across the board. Hold off on copying this one, until I prove that it works. Wait, you ordered a 4 valve big bore head? Where did you get that from?
@@kachiskid thanks brothah, this is literally the last thing to replace if it still doesn’t turn over. I don’t know what to do anymore because it might be the engine is seized but it only has 5 miles. But on the other hand the uni filter you suggested is boss it looks so good on Alice.
@@kachiskid “no spark” is that the spark plug or is it the ignition coil? I just ordered new ignition coils as well as the stator . So hopefully it’s just the coil.
I ordered a replacement 8 pole stator but it has the larger connector rathe then the smaller one as was on my current 8 pole..!? Same color wires however in different spots on the connector. Can I chop off old connector and rewire? These shoes were made for walkin but G’damn! Help!
Kachi's Kid Thanks so much! Mission Accomplished. Turns out I did way too much work by assuming it was my stator. After the new one was in still had no spark.. on a whim I bridged the terminals of the solenoid with a screwdriver and bam! 🤦♂️ Just to confirm, I do need a new solenoid, correct? Just clicks when I try to start unless I bridge with a screwdriver. Thanks for helping out the little folk.
@@Roland-Henry No problem but you are hardly little folk...you have been down for a long time. Now the "no spark" is a small problem. Normally that issue is the spark plug itself, stator, CDI, or coil. When you bridged the solenoid did the bike actually start up or just attempted to? How long have you had this problem? From what you described you have a "no spark" problem from spark plug, and a solenoid clicking issue, is that right?
Kachi's Kid Adjusted the valves as was long overdue. Didn’t disconnect the negative battery terminal but after removing the cover which so happens to have the main ground attached, realized I prolly should have. I’m by far an electrician. Put it all back together and it started right up, I killed it, and attempted to start again 3 to 5 times each with less oomph till the battery died I’m guessing at which point I smelled burning rubber which turned out to be one my solenoid rubber covers. I had a new spare solenoid, installed it and only got clicks which is why I assumed I f’d my stator.
But the new solenoid may be bad. Always a possibility. It did not start right up. I had a friend hold the break lever, I put the key in and had to bridge it quite a few times before it actually turned over. But turn over it did and I revvved the crap outta it with excitement lol. But after bridging it it took quite a few tries to even hear the faint sound of a spark and it gradually increased....
No mention of what type of bike it is, but for my bike I would look at these. partskit.com/product/103521 Lowest price I could find, Ebay wants $58 + $15 shipping for the same rim.
