I would love to see a comparison between pure evo and mohs evo. It seems like picking between the two choices has also been a bit of a mix up. Some actual testing and data would be very valuable for the world to see.
I've tried the Avalon coating last year. All the right prep and correction done. In the end, it lasted about a year in the dutch weather as a daily. Quiet disappointing. Easy to apply tho...
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have to admit the new Gyeon coatings look very impressive. Avalon did exactly what I thought it would do when the person was not being paid to present it.
Sandro you are the king of coatings. Yes true reviews are very hard to do and there is no perfect method to show the results. I would say your method it one of the best as you dont sugar coat it its a very honset review based on what your own experience and what you see. Plus the evidence is there for all of use to see. So you let us make up our own minds up. With all your reviews i think you cover ever base and answer every question again letting us make up our own minds up Again they do take time and you put alot of work into it we all can see that It works really well WE must learn to throw away the negativity and believe in what we do LIFE is to short to let them win IN Sandro we TRUST keep them coming
I started with Avalon through their influencers and then ended up polishing my car again and doing it with a coating of carpro ck 3.0 and man the level of gloss is a world of difference in person. Avalon king is the ceramic coating equivalent to chemical guys for detailing products. Good marketing, decent products, but have better alternatives for the same price.
@@timathypotato8034 The sheeting shown above is pretty poor, and almost looks like an old worn-down coating right after being applied. Now a great sheeting product would be Artdeshine or the slightly different one from Apex Detail.
Hi Sandro. Good video. One thing about Pure Evo is the hydrophobic gets better after curing for almost 30 days. Gyeon did a great job improving their coatings.
i almost boughbt armour shield ix based on the paid reviews most youtubers have made. Thank god I saw through it and waited to get more educated. Now I know that its just a marketing product with no real durability to back it up.
Hey Sandro, I am not using any of these and not planning, but I appreciate this test a lot and as I said many times - you are saving so much time for all of us by testing the products we want, we plan, we are looking at, we want to know, etc and etc, and you are doing this simply great! I will continue to say this again and again - how much money you have saved for us?!!! And I love new testing place with such a nice and warm colours of the bricks (maybe not the one you want to have during hot days)))) ). Great video as usual, thanks for sharing and I have really enjoyed it in all aspects - video quality, audio quality, background, you nice explanation and the content itself!!! Cheers from Sweden, the spring is almost here)
Glad I watched this video as so many detailers swear the Avalon king is the best and can last 2-3 years and I was going to buy it but I did see some bad comments about it, I think I’ll get the new gyeon evo mohs as that is meant to be super slick
@David Gotelli I applied it last week, no wash yet. I applied it to my BMW X7, they tell you to apply it thick so you will go through some more product that most other coatings. I least I went through a lot. I bought the 50ml & 30ml being I wanted to try it on my rims. I used every ounce of both bottles, I did apply 2 coats to the paint and 2 coats on each rim. It was real easy to work with, I like you have used several other coatings and really liked this one.
Thanks for a great comparison Sandro. I have just purchased Mohs Evo and was very interested in how Pure stacked up. I think for me I am quite pleased to have chosen the slicker product from the Gyeon range. Looking forward to applying it the next few days. Keep up the great work.
Hi Sandro, surprise surprise, I'm not two years behind the game. Fantastic timing, only yesterday I applied Gyeon Pure Evo to the orange NSX, a very special car being so few that colour in the UK & it belongs to my nephew.. My first thought, WOW seriously impressed with what its done with the colour, I am now genuinely considering what the hell Im going to do with all the other ceramic coatings I have on the shelf !! Ease of use, yes absolutely after working out that 3 & a half minutes was too long allowing it to cure before levelling off, one minute 45 was perfect as prior my microfibers were folding under my hands the coating was that grabby. BUT what its done to the colour is something very special & something Ive never experienced before. Yes its not slick but in a week I will topit with CanCoat as the sacrificial layer which will aid durability & slickness (even though she will only see British summer time, normally two days in July) Why did I go with Gyeon Pure given Ive never used a Gyeon coating previously? I watched Todd @ Esoteric do a back to back Pure Evo Vs MOHS Evo where & why, sent him a quick line as I thought the Orange would have been MOHS but he came back with Pure Evo if I was looking for that dripping wet, colour rich carnauba look. Without word or a lie : Impressed is an absolute understatement, I cant stop grinning when I look at her. With a 99% paint correction & pure its just NOT the same car that arrived. Take care fella, wishing you health & happiness. p.s. ASix indeed, Ive used it once & thought Id done something wrong but youve put my mind at rest, the remaining bottles I have will now only be used for door/boot & bonnet shuts.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Hi Sandro, yes indeed, its been a wonderful 'labour of love' of which I wouldnt change a thing, even wheel arches have been stripped & coated but every minute has been a true pleasure & the result really is something very, very special & my nephew is over the moon with its transformation (he was here while she was being coated with an ear to ear grin on his face & now cant wait to get the wheels back on, take her out & show her off to his colleagues, he's an RAF Pilot) its just a shame the number plates have got to go back on destroying those beautiful lines of her front end. Next in line, a 2011 very low mileage V8 M3 with a factory custom blue paint job (fingers crossed stone chips wont be too much of an issue) Take care my friend, will catch up with you again soon, wishing you success, health & happiness. Mike S
At 70$ for 30ml, Avalon King definetly not worth the money. For this price you can get 50ml of Cquartz UK 3.0 which is way more hydrophobic and chemically resistant!!!
While the two on the left does allow the water to bead and sheet away quicker, AS is almost completely dry. Which to me is one of the points of putting on a ceramic coating in the first place. Not advocating for AS just something I noticed.
Armor shield don't last long. Used it in early 2021 and it's almost completely gone from my SUV. I won't use it again even though I have 1/3 bottle remaining. Also note, it was super easy to apply, no grippy effects when applying. I did however try Nova Evo and it's awesome!!!!!!!!!! The Nova Evo was much harder to apply as compared but the end results are truly amazing. Thanks to Car Craft Auto I was able to discover the Nova products. Jet, Lustre and Evo. Gyeon Q2 Pure Evo looks great as well. May give it a try. Thanks for a great video, much appreciated
Great videos as always Sandro🙃 Yes I'm also waiting on your test of Mohs Evo as I've used it my black Commodore and it's my 1st true ceramic coating. Very impressed with the whole process and results with the exception of slickness. I tried a test spot on a guard with a bit of old NV Lustre and man now that's slickness so so smooth on top of Mohs Evo and more like I was expecting to get ..
You telling us that Mohs Evo isnt that slick? Omg. Its near slickest as INFINITE Type 1 which is one of the certified coatings from GYEON. And being a normal consumer coating has really impressed me compared to the previous Mohs version.
Hi Sandro! Like I read in the other comments on this video, to me you are indeed the standard when it comes to honest reviews and actually helpful advice. I wish this review was released a year earlier as I chose AS IX as my very first coating. Not that impressed. OK, I didn't do my maintenance washes every 2 weeks... but I'm not sure it would have mattered. After viewing this video, I would have certainly chosen Gyeon Pure or Pure Evo. Keep the excellent advice coming!!! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I did my car with Mohs EVO just over a month ago. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NJttKf1qNLY.html Not a review as such but I'm loving it so far. I have a bottle of Armor Shield IX here for my wife's car....Wondering if I should use it on the shower screens and try CQuartz UK or something else instead
Another great video 👌 I haven't used any Gyeon coatings (I mainly use Carpro and Nv coatings) but based on this video they are definitely worth checking out. Thanks Sandro
Great test as always. I’d love to see a comparison between Pure Evo and SiC. Or even Pure Evo + CanCoat Evo vs UK 3.0 + SiC. Especially how do they deal with waterspots.
Hmm. I've seen ads in videos for AK's coating for a while, and I've come close to buying it, but never pulled the trigger with any ceramic coating yet. Tbh I'm quite surprised, in a disappointed way, about AK's water behavior. For something so slick, I honestly would've expected it to just throw water off the second it touches, so it's a bit shocking that it sheeted so much. I think of any detailing product I've researched and looked at, ceramic coatings are by far the category I'm most on the fence about, in terms of what coating to buy, for my own personal use, as well as other people's cars. But this is part of why I love your channel and your work so much, you do the science, show us how it is and let us decide what we feel is right for us. That being said, I don't think the money difference between AK and Gyeon justifies it's performance. I think, personally, shelling the extra money for a better all-round coating is a much better route. Thanks for your continued, amazing work with testing and reviews, and everything else. Your videos have been such a huge help and influence for me on what products to buy and what I have bought.
Cheers Sandro. Based on your previous videos and this one, I think carpro lite will be a obvious winner for cheap beginner(or consumer grade) ceramic coating league. Carpro cquartz uk is still one of the best, but there are many different ceramic coating within similar price range that can perform very similarly. However, I don't think I saw any other coating that is as cheap as Carpro cquartz lite and perform as good as it does.
I might have applied my avalon king wrong as every video I've seen says when the avalon king flashes and turns rainbow wipe it off. So I wiped it off almost immediately
That interesting... i watch alot of avalon king review video and the hydrophobic behavior is so much different from your. I gotten a bottle a couple a month ago.. anyway will just apply and see how it behaves
Amour instead of Armor, “kill one bird with two stones”. I think you need a break Sandro 😂 you’re working too hard bro. On a more serious note tho, I definitely agree, all 3 coatings look nearly identical in the black panel in terms of cosmetic improvement, and Pure Evo seems to be ever so slightly more hydrophobic than the original. As for the Armor… I wouldn’t even call that passable. Heck, even Meguiar’s Xpress Spray Wax is more hydrophobic and durable than that and it’s 30 bucks a gallon (which rocks for cleaning windows btw). CarPro’s CQUK 3.0 is only $80 for the 50ml package (used to be $75 pre-kobe) and that coating’s 110* without breaking a sweat and more than 3 years later, it’s still alive and well on 2 of my cars (1 which sleeps outside and a garage queen, with the garage queen still beading on some of the plastic/rubber trims pretty much like day 1, it’s insane). That coating set the standard so if your performance is much lower, then it better be much cheaper, which is not the case with Armor, it’s actually much more expensive!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing yeah, I'm thinking that that would not be more aggressive than a car wash that customers will take their vehicles through as I want the coaing to last for them after many many washes.
I've used ASIX on different cars, and wheels and i can te tell you DEFINITELY that it doesn't behave as shown. It behaves just like the Gyeons , if applied correctly. Don't believe everything you see online...
Love your test videos! Discovered by accident, Bilt Hamber Auto Foam 3% plus contact agitation is a quick method to kill a ceramic coating, even on Gyeon Pure Evo 😢 perhaps you could test this out too
Sandro, you mean that they may not do the bottle slide test at gyeon? How uncivilised. That should be the standard. Hehe Demand to talk to the manager immediately.
I've been doing a bunch of research into Gyeons new line up and it's looking really easy for the install even for mobile installs. I curious to see the actually different between both the Pure Evo and Mohs Evo but I'm actually more curious of the new Skin Evo in there Syncro Evo line up. The standard coating I see for the higher end where I'm at is 2 layers of UK3.0 and a top coat of Gliss but they hold the vehicles for 2 to 3 days. But from what I see Syncro it really only needs one layer but can be layer an hours afterwards same with the Skin Evo top coat and only would need to be held for a day. From this video it makes me curious how different is Pure it doesn't look much better. Thanks again for time and effort for this content!
I can see the difference and I’m gonna tell you just by looking at it through this video I would pick the one on the right side of the panel. However The hydrophobic behavior of the one on the right is not to my liking
Armour Shield water displacement looked better to me after the water sheeted off and less water was on the surface. Yes, the other two might have beaded off the water better but there where more left on the surface vs. the ASIX. Rewatch the video, the EVO left more water drops when rinsing off the surface, Armour Shied had very little left.
@@monstershayneThe more water drops left on the surface, the more water spotting. AS’s sheeting with little water left behind would result in fewer water spots.
Great video as always Sandro. Thank you. One thing I liked about the Armour Shield in this test is its hydrophilic behaviour. Sure, you're not getting the tight water beading of the hydrophobic coatings, but in a predominantly wet climate, such as here in the UK, maybe a hydrophilic coating is actually a better option? Anyone worth their salt will, presumably, be topping their coating after each wash with some sort of ceramic spray sealant or spray and rinse top coating anyway, right? Just my thoughts there.
I don’t think it’s completely clear cut, but although trying to minimise water spots is certainly desirable, hydrophilic paint protection products present issues. How do even know when the product is still performing when you can’t visually assess it as it behaves just like bare paint? - slickness fades long before the product is gone so how do you judge a product that has baste paint hydrophilic behaviour? Hydrophilic products also tend to pool and retain larger amounts of water on horizontal panels keeping them wet for far longer and encouraging corrosion, unlike the vertical panels in this test that sheet more effectively. They are also more time consuming to main and especially dry. If you intend on topping it with a more hydrophobic product then why would you want a hydrophilic base layer in the first place? Wether we admit it or not visual pleasure in how these products look and behave with water is also very important, tight water beads are beautiful things to watch and enjoy. It just seems to me that there’s a huge amount of benefits in having an extremely hydrophobic coating and only one disadvantage which is water spots. I’d be more interested in keeping all those pleasurable benefits are working a little harder to solve the water spot issue. In saying that I’m not everyone, so if you feel that a hydrophilic coating is best for you, use it and enjoy it mate that’s the most important thing.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing that is a very comprehensive and excellent answer there Sandro, and you do have a VERY good point. I'd say that probably 95% of people are interested in ceramic coatings purely for the look it provides, with the protection aspect being quite a distant second. I think those aspects only begin to balance out more if you are quite heavily interested in detailing and truly understand the real-world benefits a coating has in terms of paint protection. I guess it's the age old quandary really - can anything truly be everything to every man all at the same time? Or do we have to make some compromises along the way.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Hey Sandro...in your opinion, what is the most durable, glossy, and easy to apply ceramic coating you have ever tested? Would it be from Gyeon? I want to put a ceramic coating on brothers brand new Nissan Patrol, but I have minimal experience with ceramic coatings having only done a few panels on my own car as a test.
@Dexio I think CQUK3.0 is still at the top of the list as far as user friendliness goes, it’s also practically fail safe and a great guest coating to use.
Another great informative video. Just wondering if the surface of Gyeon became slicker after the chemical attacks and if you noticed any difference in the surface friction while washing it? Keep up the great work.
So cool. Have u tried the adams graphine coating already? It suppose to have 12 years durability. Would be interestiing to see if its any better then ceramic coatings.
If you’re new to coatings CQUARTZ UK is a fantastic performing coating that’s also very easy to apply and get right, so that’s what I’d tend to recommend. The newer CQ SiC coating does perform a little better overall but it’s application is a touch more tricky to get perfect, but if you have a bit of experience with coatings that could also be a great one.
Sandro, I thoroughly enjoy your videos, it is abundantly clear you really care about whatever you display. Your music, video editing, sound quality etc., is the best around.I have a 2018 Pearl White Genesis G80 3.3T. The paint and clear coat are in excellent condition but I find what I'm using Jescar Power Lock Plus, just doesn't give me the pop that I'd like. Would you please recommend a coating for this Korean White paint so I have a wonderful glossy, almost wet look. Keep up the fantastic work, you are the best.
Odd, just coated my wife’s car with Pure Evo - and the bottle absolutely did slide off even on the gentle slope of the hood. I ended giving it 1 x Pure Evo and 2 x Exo V4 top layers -and it is super slick
the sheeting is by far superior to heading as there was almost no water on the armor shield coated part of the panel. and that's what you want ... all the water to dissappear off the paint. nit just bead and stay there. again sheeting is something not many coating do well so for a 70 dollar diy coating it wins hands down
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing - I agree. I had my gf bring her Jeep to work so we could have Xpel ppf installed. I put two layers of Carpro Skin on it, and it's been doing great!
Generally if it’s a longer lasting coating it will also last longer on metal compared to a less durable sealant, so it you want a little more long term I’d use a good ceramic coating or just apply a sealant or wax a little more often. In general all protection products won’t last as long on metal as they will on paint so you just need to reply them more often.
@@barrybij8079 @UCspkJO7A0AZ_cDR7L9E051w by my knowledge of GYEON's coating, all their SiO2 based formula are not that slick compared to their Polysilazane formula present in Mohs. I'm really impressed by Mohs EVO atm - super slick, like Skin but in a single coat.
Nice comparison, but I frankly don’t see much value in the ‘chemical resistance’ test - who would repeatedly rinse their vehicle with strong chemicals ?? - Preferably would be leaving the panel outside for 3-6 months, do a light wash and re-test. But - that kind of takes time…
Thanks, and chemical testing of sorts is how almost all brands predict durability, it’s unrealistic to test a coating with years of predicted durability for years in the real world. It’s almost important to note that environments, can use and maintain are hugely varied and completely subjective to the individual. Chemical tests are very uniform and I’m almost every case products that can resist chemical applications always seem to last longer, so although not perfect it’s a great source of information.
Man, I'm still perplexed by coatings and what makes a good coating...Armour Shield might have had worse contact angles, but if you go to 9:13 of the video, which coating looks like it'd do better with water spotting? The Avalon King section is almost completely dry, whereas there's a ton of beads on both Gyeon panels
@@derek723 but it wouldn't as it's going to bead up due to the droplets of water. It won't sheet any better than either of the Gyeon coatings in the rain so totally irrelevant that it shows sheeting in this test. Rain doesn't come out as a 'stream' of water & that's the only reason the panel is sheeting here.
I waited a long time to try Avalon King. One coat went on our '99 Odyssey last weekend. ASIX got it's ass kicked in this test! Gyeon ws a Ferrari...ASIX was a Honda,lol! Sandro,thanks for another great video.
I have used AS IX several times and for my use case (cars parked outside) durability hasn’t been good, but application is simple! By way of comparison CQuartz has been fantastic in terms of durability and application wasn’t bad at all.
@@ekarabardak I can't say I' m not surprised....our van sat in the garage for a week to help the asix "cure". Well,since then,it had been rained on three times. I used gsf to foam it yesterday,and reset to wash it. Lol, the water behavior(the lack of) was like wax that was on it's last leg. Sad,really. I had a brand new box in the garage...now it's at the dump. Lesson learned. A lot of this stuff is trial&error. Not sure what I'll try on the van next...maybe csl and be done with it.
I'm sorry to disagree but the Avalon Shield was much better at water sheeting and left the panel almost dry each time. Just freeze your video and look at the panels with each test. The Gyeon panels had numerous water beads left behind which if left untouched would dry on the paint. I do agree the Gyeon coatings were much FASTER at pushing the water off but they left behind water beads.
Have a look at the video below at the 11:40 mark if you have time. I think you’ve commented on a couple of videos with the same point. The thing to understand is that water from a hose isn’t like rain water, in fact it’s not even close, rain water simply wouldn’t have enough volume to allow any coating to sheet cleanly that way, it would level droplets regardless of whether it’s hydrophobic or not. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5m1NSJt8QRU.html
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing I took a look and yes, I agree on the hose and chemical tests are not realistic scenarios. People who care about their car’s paint don’t do these things to their cars. Things that are realistic are not washing their car often, not drying their car after being in the rain, road salt build up especially in the northeastern USA, washing their cars with a dishwashing soap like Dawn or Palmolive, and taking their car to a machine car wash. Find me a coating that does best in these scenarios and still leaves the panel dry or resists swirls, scratches and micro marring
I’ve applied hundreds of coatings professionally in my business and not once have I told a customer they can neglect and abuse the paint and the coating will hold up - I tell them the opposite, they will get out of a coating what they are willing to put in. I think a lot of people have been mislead about what ceramic coatings really are and do, your wants are completely unrealistic and any honest detailer would tell you that and any honest coating brand would do the same. I acutely cover a lot of these points in many of my detailing volgs, I hate all the BS certain brands and coating applicators like car dealerships push, it’s harmful to the reputation of honest coating brands and honest car detailers.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing You make good points but you should also consider how the average consumer neglects or doesn't want to do much to maintain their car's paint compared to getting it machine or hand washed or professionally coated. I think given where the coatings industry is today and what keeps getting developed, it feels like we are regressing and conducting unrealistic tests on panels, like chemical resistance tests, LOL. Neglect or simply not washing your car for 6 weeks is a very realistic scenario and something a consumer should consider before buying a certain type of coating. Not wiping down your car and leaving it outside in the rain is a very realistic scenario as is not cleaning up the bird poop for two weeks or not cleaning the sap from a tree for a few weeks. When you consider the cost of a ceramic coating and the detailer's labor, you start to realize it's more cost effective to get the car hand washed once a month for $20 depending on how long you will keep or use the vehicle. Coatings should be developed for what really happens in the real world. I respect your experience but am simply telling you what I would like to see in a product which is a coating that repels water, sheeting > beading, requires less maintenance, leaves minimal water spots, and resists scratches, swirls, or marring.
Chemical resistance tests are how all coatings are tested by good manufacturers, they are industry standard are provide fair and consistent information ie. how resistant a coating is to breaking down. I have many videos on my channel showing coatings on actual cars many years, on have a look - so that’s another way to test and evaluate, both are important and you’ll find that the chemical tests support the real world tests and results. You can laugh at these tests or belittle them, but lots of hard work goes into making them - try it and you’ll understand - and lots of people appreciate and benefit from them as well.
N each of your tests, the AS was a sheeter where the Gyeon was a beader. The AS comes out ahead for sheeting in that you will have substantially less issue with water spots! Hands down the winner!
Hey Sandro another great vid. Got a question mate. I just ordered a bottle of NV lustre. Just rethinking this and wondering if u can give me your opinion as to why/when something like lustre would be used in place of a ceramic coating like carpro cquartz UK for example? Thanks mate
I think you’d use Lustre if you don’t want a semi permanent coating and want the flexibility to polish the paint without the hassle of having to remove a coating. You’d also use Lustre over the coating to give it increased, gloss, saturation and slickness. It’s really the question of if you want a sealant or coating or if you want a sealant over the coating as well.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thx for the reply Sandro. Would people worry about polishing if they had a ceramic coating? If i detailed my family members car (ie my sister's car) and said I can put lustre on the car which might give u 6 months protection vs a coating like carpro cquartz that would cost about $80 more in product, but give much more longevity, wouldn't u go the longer protection? I assume the lustre is a quicker application but it looks like it wouldnt take much longer to apply these DIY types of ceramic coating. Regards
Well a small bottle Lustre would give up to a dozen applications whereas a bottle of coating is 2 layers at most so the cost difference is much greater. You wouldn’t polish a coating as long as it and abs paint is performing and looking well. The issue is that removing a coating is a time consuming process whereas removing sealant is far easier. There really no right or wrong way to go and I use both sealants and coatings.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing ok thanks again Sandro. So have u used lustre over the carpro ceramic products? I've seen comments about water spots with these ceramic coatings. Would lustre help alleviate this? That's my final question, I promise :)
