31 years ago I helped develop that panel with the gentleman who built the roll forming machine in Salem Oregon, 31 years ago. There are drawbacks with this panel though, which is the raw edge which snaps onto the preceding panel which through normal roof movement will allow that raw edge to dig into that preceding panel causing a wear spot that then will rust. For customers of this type of roofing; Know what type of steel is being used to make those panels because if it has too much carbon, it will crack if the "break" squeezes the metal back on itself. If I remember correctly a "D" grade is better because it has less carbon and is more malleable, thus allows the "Break" to squeeze the fold overs tight for a cleaner looking edge. "D" grade also allows the roll forming machine to produce panels which do not have any cracks or misalignment problems thus causing the snap edge to be malformed not engaging sufficiently to make the lock down effective. This is because the locking edge is only about 3/16" so it is critical that the material goes through the roll former perfectly straight. It becomes a toss up as to the balance of what type of sheet steel is used verses its workability to a finished product with no cracks. Also, those panels cost more to bundle and ship because they cannot be stacked like the old corrugated type steel roofing.
I noticed the wear points also, plus if the screws aren't put in perfectly vertical in the valley, they will cause a wear point. Thanks for the info and I agree with you. Builder with 57 years of experience.
I love the way you trim the valley panel under the drip edge solid and great educational video also love these panels that snap on with the screws hidden
@@matt7iron You can put it directly over shingles, but better to put it over roofing felt that is on top of the shingles. It creates a pad. Just make sure to use fasteners that make up the difference in thickness and reach the decking.
Appears to be a good product. Being in video production and marketing, your company made a wise decision to take the time to produce a decent how-to video. So many companies release products with poor installation instructions. That has to hurt sales especially when products fail when installed improperly.
good presentation and product watched pure living for life{ you tube stars} struggle because of no notches and length of roof you showed it was possible
Nahh , after slamming a few miles of pans ...it's all down hill lol 😆 . As w/ any system ( or any career for that matter ) the devil is in the details. You can train a monkey to do about anything but, if the monkey doesn't care about what they're doing...well you're just throwing away banana's. Between commercial / industrial roofing for years then heavy equipment as an operating engineer being the two paths traveled in the private sector , I'm sure most of us would possibly view your job as extensively detailed till properly educated/trained to correctly and productively complete your (seemingly) mondaine (to you) task . Besides the view is awesome on the right sites ( campus / business district ) LoL
It does take a bit of pressure to snap ribs, and unless you have hands of steel, don't expect to be able to beat ribs in. Just walk ribs into place with your feet. Otherwise GREAT PRODUCT. Just make sure you talk with a rep from the manufacturer to get correct trim pieces.
No pointers on triming bottom gable or (rake) trim like installation guide mentions. Most of the measurements do not go with printout installation guide. 1 foot for dripedge. Trims only come in 10'2"? No pointers on trim laps. Though good demonstration, its enough info to get somebody in trouble not knowing the finer details of a good looking metal roof. Longer panels won't slide up after snapping down. Rather only bend drip latch about 90 deg on bottom of panel. Lock, screw, then bend bottom rest of the way around drip and rib closer while you are there.
Hello there, how do the boys flash two 45 degree sheets on the ridge, keeping the standing seam or ridge profile or prickle along the top of the ridge please? I'm looking for a 12 inch ridge cap but must have no welding folded to 45 degrees for architectural appearance, rather than basic flat ridge cap. Thankyou.
The way he bent bottom of wall flashing to lock on drip is very incorrect water needs to have a place to spill out and now he has blocked off leading it to run behind z bar also if this was a place that gets ice build up it’s a for sure leak
How can you get cleaner, sharper lines where you have to notch and brake the panels at the eaves? The system looks great but there are a few details that I have questions about. Do you have an FAQ on your website? May I have the link, please. Thanks.
I'm not sure if you knew this was available to you, but Swenson Shear has a tool to increase production on panel installations. The SnapTable PRO will consistently notch, cut and hem standing seam panels at your eaves, hips and valleys. Check out Swenson Shear's SnapTable PRO here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gJHuSx-3CIE.html
Amigo se ve que son foofers de single no de metal , ay tijeras especiales para ese tipo de metal, roja para derecha i verde para izquierda, hacen la lucha pero les falta un poco de experiencia
@ 1:49 the valley has a reversed j-hook (open hem) on the top edge, both sides. A better install is making reversed 1 1/2" x 3" cleats, with a 1/2" open hem, then hook those into the 'j' , now screw through the cleat just past the valley, then fold the remainder of the cleat back over the screw and tap flat.
This person installed the drip edge so it is touching the fascia board. No, No, No! There needs to be a space, or gap, between the fascia board and the bottom of the drip edge. The purpose of the dip edge is to keep water from dripping onto the fascia. People who install the guttering need a gap, so they can slip the back of the gutter behind the drip edge easily. If it is touching the fascia board the gutter installer will go along with a pry-bar and bent the drip edge away from the fascia. This causes the drip edge to be deformed. Why can't roofers learn to install the drip edges correctly? (3/8 to 1/2 inch is the correct spacing.) That keeps the rain water from dripping onto the fascia and allows the guttering to be easily slipped up in place.
I don’t not agree with leaving a space. The gutter is to be installed behind the drip edge. If you leave a space the gutter screws will crush the drip edge if you leave a 1/2 gap. All you need is a gap just big enough to slip the gutter behind
That depends on how well your roof is insulated. There is a similar roofing system on my house and I don't think it is much, if any louder than rain on an asphalt shingle roof. But, there is insulation both between the roof joists AND in the floor of the attic so . . .
@@juniordiaz892 E;l chingo existente está pintado con membrana liquida Zika, tres manos y no tiene goteras ni roturas, queria saber si la chapa que tiene solo dos nervios para ensamblar con la siguiente y es lisa en su cuerpo, podria directamente se asentada sobre el chingo enzikado y o debemos ahislar con algo, madera u otro producto, en fin, el asunto de la condenzación, voy a intentar de mandar fotos de como es y lo que se pretende para poder saber mas'. Gracoias por contestar. Un saludo grande ber-fer
I see a lot of potential problems: messing around with 3 different pieces of trim for the ends to finish off the barge rafters, requiring at least a 3:12 pitch (this illiminates about 30% of all jobs), and the additional costs of trim pieces. Why not climb up on at 12/12 pitch and give us a real demo!!!!?? It's always easy standing on tera firma and teaching "how to"
You crimp the inside hems 8" down from the top of the first pan on the top side. Then you crimp the hems 8" up from the bottom of the next piece from the underside. Then with a little manipulation they kinda just slide together. Looks real clean in the end. No screws or holes showing. Definitely still caulk the seams before you slide them together tho.
I don't want to see any screws in my roof SAYS NOBODY EVER! Struggled mightely on that 2' piece of rake, what about a 20' because noway anyone would accept 2 10s. What a disaster! Shingle it or screw it!
Don’t buy anything from 5second Inc. that was the advertisement on most of RU-vid right now. You will not receive anything or what you get will be junk.
Dude is way to simple minded, certain things he’s doing like the cutting and under bending and no seal on the riveting etc. need to be explained! The system looked good half way through along with some of the other Installation segments but the how and why just didn’t really add up.
