H160 HHO high temperature oxy hydrogen water torch from Banggood 

Hi Alan, I thought you would be pretty interested. I only stumbled across this by accident while looking for something else (oxygen concentrator) on BG. I have a better torch with built in flash back arrestor on the way for the next review. Even though the bubbler stops any major explosion occuring, I will be happier with an in line pre unit arrestor as well ( You can actually make them easily). Plus the additional torch tip sizes will make the unit more useful. Cheers Rob

@@Xynudu Hi Rob, looking forward to the follow up video then 🙂👍 Cheers, Alan.

Get the Smith little torch, it is rated for hydrogen or LP or acetylene. Tips from a #1 with synthetic sapphire orifice up to small rose buds and other wide pattern flames can be bought, the cheaper knock off units work ok but the adjustment controls suck... Very abrupt and not at all smooth or linear in control. Also the gtt yellow jacket is extremely stable

If you add beer... will it seperate the alcohol from the rest?

That has no chance of happening in my workshop. Beer is only added to my stomach in this region of the world ;)

Codyslab tried that, but noting bad ever happened.

Acid isn't going to cause a thermal reaction either way. This is a totally different scenario. Cheers Rob

@@Xynudu What applies for alkalis also applies to acids...... If you pour water in concentrated acids, be ready to run... Roy's right since he wasn't sleeping during that chemistry lesson, slowly pour acid in water...

Hi Pierre, the consensus of viewers is that I'm wrong on this The internet also agrees with you. So I stand corrected. Do as the user diagram shows and add the chemical to the water slowly. Cheers Rob

Hi Roy, it is agreed by all that you are correct. I stand corrected. Cheers Rob

No worries Rob. I just like to see things done safely

Hi there, came across this video on my suggested feed; I have been building a HHO torch for the past couple of months. As you're saying the most frustrating aspect is how small of a heating area it can actually produce as it is much too focused for glass work, this is because of the chemistry of HHO flames. Whereas a typical flame from a hydrocarbon is an expanding flame (the atoms combine and force themselves away from each other allowing for a larger heating area) a HHO torch is (typically) a collapsing flame because the atom are effectively being stretched like an elastic band and collapsing into themselves with a lot of force producing water. The most simple way I have found to do this is to use Potassium Acetate as the electrolyte (made from Potassium Carbonate and Acetic Acid) Potassium Carbonate allows for almost pure Hydrogen and Oxygen (most likely to flashback, invisible/blue flame), where as Sodium Bicarb has significant CO2 and a little CO being produced which reduced the flashback chance and adds a slight yellow colour to the flame (Making it more visible). I managed to increase the heating potential and area by using different electrolytes: adding white vinegar (acetic acid 5%) as the electrolysis of acetic acid produces ethane increasing the heating area of the flame and colouring the flame yellow(whilst slightly decreasing the upper temperature of the flame).

Had one like this. If you put methyl alcohol with boric acid in the bubbler, you get a green flame with flux already in it. This also spreads the BTU of the flame more evenly.

I saw a video where a guy tries to make a larger diameter HHO flame pattern by making the torch tip slightly concave. What do you think of that idea ? It seemed to have some effect, but I'm not sure what it did to the temperature. Cheers Rob

Was the vinegar the sole electrolyte or was that in addition to the hydroxide ? Cheers Rob

@@Xynudu if I remember correctly, the torch I had was a three-chamber torch the first was the electrolyte chamber, the second was packed with synthetic fiber to prevent the electrolyte from entering the torch, and the third was the flux chamber.

I have a better torch with multiple tip sizes on the way. Cheers Rob

Can you tell me do you think it would work for me to do silver and copper jewellery making with - solder rings together? thanks, Mandy

Hi Kelly the non OEM torch I now use has a flash back arrestor built in. You definitely need one with water in the bubbler, but the metho/acetone mix I use has never flashed back. It also is non oxidising. Cheers Rob

Hi Luke. The product does what it says and performs at the level shown in the video. It does however have an issue when standing over time with electrolyte and bubbler fluids. There is a one way valve in the bubbler which sticks on mine and this can cause bubbler fluid to suck back into the electrolyte container and vica versa. The only way to prevent this happening is to release the electrolyte filler cap after use to eliminate any potential vacuum or pressure. Cheers Rob

Hi Shawn, I was actually browsing Banggood for an oxygen accumulator (similar to yours) when I saw this. They do have an oxygen accumulator as well. So as I don't have an oxy/lpg set at the moment, I thought what the hell, lets check this gadget out and see what it can do. I thought it was pretty interesting. Some people even sniff this gas as it's supposed to have magical health benefits (LOL). Cheers Rob

@@Xynudu yea , I bet it just blows there mind..LOL..

Works well, is very hot, BUT is only suitable for small mass work as the BTHUs are low. Cheers Rob

@@Xynudu I've bought one, set it up today. I love it, the precise focussed heat is perfect for jewellery making. So far I've flame-cut some thin gauge copper sheet, and brazed small .8mm copper wire rings together to make a filigree pattern. I'd considered a Smith's Little Torch, but this is cheaper, and safer in operation. I really appreciate your video, thank you!

Good move. Just be sure to depressurise the system , including loosening the electrolyte filler cap, after use. The bubbler has a one way valve in it that can stick and cause it to syphon the electrolyte into the bubbler and vica versa. Just be warned that this can happen !!! Other than that it's a great unit. I'm using 75% denatured alcohol (methylated spirits) with 25% acetone and a teaspoon of Borax per litre of volume) in the bubbler. This was a receipe given to me by a retired jeweller. No flashback. Enjoy. Cheers Rob

@@Xynudu Useful tips, thank you!

It's only capable of very small work, but is useful. It is safe to use, but can blow back with only water in the bubbler. So use a metho and acetone mix in it. Also make sure to release pressure in the electrolite tank after use or it may syphon between it and the bubbler (due to a sticky valve) as things cool down. Overall I like it and use it for soldering and releasing Loctited bolts/nuts that a large torch couldn't hope to do. For the type of work you intend, I suggest look into Oxy/LPG. Cheers Rob

​@@Xynudu thanks for the extra tips

Hi Matty, I've put in a request for the super duper torch, so we will see what happens. Drilling out the jet didn't end well as I think I went too big (0.95 mm) using the smallest jet drill I have. The jet shape could also be wrong. It will be interesting to see what flame Bthu's I can get out of it. Fun toy anyway and potentially useful for freeing up small bolts etc. Cheers Rob

Hi Chris, I've asked for the optional up market torch BG have for this with various/larger jet sizes. The main use for this unit is jewelry, but I can see other options if the flame size can be increased. It made short work of that tin can bottom - damn hot flame. Sort of satisfying to see it burn through steel. Cheers Rob

Hi Colum, it's amazing how it burns through a steel can in an instant, but brass and copper with much higher heat conductivity/loss fair much better. I've spent all morning playing around with it to see what it can do. Should be good for fiddly soldering where an iron can't be used - eg sweating small objects/pipes together. So it has some model work capability. Extra tip sizes will be a plus. Cheers Rob

Glad you enjoy it! Cheers Rob

he already checked for the line to case bond and it showed the case earthed.

He He. What could possibly go wrong Peter :) So far so good and it handles serious flash back no problem. Some other versions of the H160 I've seen have a pressure gauge where the blow off valve is, looks pretty but goodness knows what happens when it flashes back - probably blows the bubbler bowl off. LOL Cheers Rob

This is very wrong. The rate at which oxyhydrogen burns is supersonic. Youd be hard pressed producing a high enough flow rate to overcome the flashback speed. It's actually prevented by the thermo conductivity of the torch nozzle and the use of a mesh material within the torch handle

Hi Alan, no such antics with this one. It will however flashback on shutdown if you use water in the bubbler, dead set certainty, but with the acetone and metho mix it has never happened. Cheers Rob

It's an implosion, not an explosion.

Hi Merv, you will need to get some calcium hydroxide. Google for that in your state. It's about $20 for 500 grams, which will last you for ages. You can also use sodium hydroxide (caustic soda), but that is not as effective and will cause buildup and sludge in the unit, so avoid that. You can buy calcium hydroxide off of Ebay. Cheers Rob

It should be OK. It's made for jewellery and similar units are widely used in the industry. The flame length and size can be adjusted. It is NOT a fluffy flame pattern, so it's pin point heating. You will have to keep the flame moving. For workshop brazing a softer flame is better. I can't comment on what you require for jewellery as that's not something I do. Cheers Rob

They do make larger commercial sized units, but of course that would be a lot more expensive. Cheers Rob

The torch tip can be rotated in relation to the torch body.

Hydroxy Chow Mein. No naked flames near the toilet bowl when it passes through you

If you don’t mind me asking.... What did you use the machine primarily for?

@@SWhite-hp5xq Firstly for sealing very small pyrex capillaries 5mm high by 2.5mm outside diameter. the bottom 3mm was held at liquid nitrogen temperature. Later for making specialised thermocouple sets by welding. In between general silver soldering and welding. A very versatile tool to be honest. Oh and the glass blowers borrowed it now and again to make gold contacts and pass throughs. The biggest things I've done were silver solder the buffer bodies to the back plates for a 5"G steam loco, in steel. no problem using the largest jet.

I only use it to heat metal. I've never tried to weld steel with it, but I have managed to bronze braze very small steel with it. Regarding the bubbler liquid getting into the HHO generator and visaversa, this can happen if the valve in the bubbler gets gummy/sticks. It only happens when the unit cools down after use. I ALWAYS release the pressur of the HHO tank slowly with the filler cap (it's very low pressure) after use to prevent this happening. Make sure to have no naked flame if you do this.

I don't know what the plates are made of. I suspect it would be SS the same as the cylinder. I don't see why the manufacturer would use plain steel as there is no point/gain in doing that. I flushed the cylinder out once as there was some discoloration occuring. Cheers Rob

Hi Anthony, I'm sure you could scale it up quite easily. The gas generator is very simple. All you would need to do is multiply the pairs of electrodes (cathode/anode) and the power supply amperage. A single unit is 300 watt. You could also use multiple units in parallel with a single universal gas outlet. Cheers Rob

I leave the electrolyte mix/liquid in the tank all the time. When it gets very discoloured I change it with a new mix of the correct ratio. I always release the filler cap after use to avoid any syphon/pressure differential effect between the main tank and the bubbler (which can contaminate either). This occurs because the valve in the bubbler gets sticky and dosen't work as it should.

Glad you enjoyed it

Hi David, Did you wear any sort of eye filter/UV protection with it ? Also did tip/jet nose profile have any effect on flame pattern (eg concave versus the regular flat end) ? Cheers Rob

@@Xynudu i only used uv protection with platinum, so if you're welding steel, steel rules would apply. for brass, silver, gold i only used safety glasses, or my opti-visor. i only used the flat ended tips so i couldn't tell you if concave would make a difference. i do know that if the unit works properly you will enjoy it and find lots of use for it. iw ill repeat that there is a learning curve, particularly if you're used to oxy- fuel torches. post some updates when you can. i looked at the price of that machine and i was astounded!!! they were VERY expensive when i first started using them. enjoy. dave.

Thanks for the info Dave.

@@Xynudu you're welcome.

Apparently the tank needs a clean/flush out after long term use. I'm not sure what that involves. Cheers Rob

@@Xynudu Guess we'll find out, like you shown this produces a clean tiny hot flame for micro works. A while ago I got myself a 10 liters per minute oxygen concentrator, this does great even with quite bigger torches, cost is way higher than this cute little unit, though...

Hi Pierre, I was actually looking at oxygen concentrators when I spotted this on BG. They do have a 5 lpm concentrator that looks interesting, but is in the $400 AU dollar range.. I have been considering buying an oxy/lpg brazing kit for a long time as it is now reasonably cost effective given you don't have to rent the cylinders any more in Oz. The Bullfinch LPG torch is great but sometimes I want to do larger jobs and it struggles or is too much for it. I will probably eventually buy a set and then investigate using a concentrator. Very interesting subject. Brazing is a mostly neglected skill these days. Bit sad. Always learning ;) Cheers Rob

@@pierresgarage2687 long time no see how r u & O2 concentrator video perhaps?

It's a worry.

@@Xynudu Seems it worked thou

I have no idea of the warranty period.

@@Xynudu i will get in touch with banggood Rob its not really worth it if it only lasts a few months i have a few projects to be doing so i need something that's going to be reliable

It's a worry ;)

@xynudu Sir, how much is the welding machine price?

Kolin Evans Use the yellow bottles of MAP gas, not the blue if you need more heat.

Hi Tim, the consensus of viewers is that I'm wrong on this The internet also agrees with you. So I stand corrected. Do as the user diagram shows and add the chemical to the water slowly. Cheers Rob

It's 240 volt 50 hz in Oz. There is no mention anywhere of the voltage frequency (on box, machine, handbook, etc). It just says 200 - 240 volt AC. I would expect it to run at either frequency, but that's not a definite given. Cheers Rob

I only use Calcium Hydroxide (CaOH) as it works well and stays reasonably clean. It's what the manufacturer supplies. Sodium Hydroxide will go a dark colour same as Potassium Hydroxide. None of these chemicals are very expensive. The conductivity factor is similar and depends mainly upon the % used.

@@Xynudu Wow that is great to know! How would you clean this, if you were using KOH or NaOH?

Rinse it out with clean water.

No.

Banggood sold out and have apparently decided not to re-stock. Maybe sales weren't high enough or the price became too high. The site continually changes items it has for sale. Cheers Rob

What format of welding are you talking about ?

Try Harbor Freight Alumiweld.

Not necessarily. It depends upon the type of fuel and the torch burner used. Eg a standard LPG torch burns hottest at the tip, but a Bullfinch LPG torch is hottest well back from the tip. Using Oxy /hydrogen as shown in the video is generally hottest well back from the flame tip. You can see this as the jet/tip moves in closer to the metal - eg. melting the tin can clearly shows this. Cheers Rob

Search Ebay and Amazon for H160.

Turn down the hand torch gas flow for a smaller flame and reduce output pressure. I ise denatured alcohol, acetone and Borax in the bubbler. Works best and won't blow back.

@@Xynudu I had it where it barely lit and it still acts like a leaf blower with the solder chips on the pad.

I don't use it for that type of work, so I can't help you on this.

@@Xynudu I am a jeweler, and you did help me, with the denat alcohol, acetone, borax in the bottle tip, it also got me to look closer at the machine somehow I over filled it. I will fix that today.

多謝。. 方便小焊接和钎焊. 干杯罗伯

Agreed. You can easily make one using stainless steel wool. Very low tech. Cheers Rob

@@Xynudu how would steel wool actually stop a flash back when the feed gases are already premixed from the machine? Short of a bubbler or other sort of gaped arrestor browns gas doesn't very well stop when it flashed back into the torch body or hose

Hi Josh, from what I've read, the heat transfer/loss into the steel wool (or granules) lowers the flame temperature to a point where it goes out, even though it has it's own oxygen supply. Sounds logical to me. Cheers Rob

@@Xynudu fair enough, I just couldn't wrap my head around how it would work but with that bit of logic, I can see how it might be possible for that to arrest the flashback. Thanks for the response

Bet you could but it wud run hot hot hot🔥 probably end up welding engine, fuel system wud need modification

Was thinking the same... You tried it?

Good question Shaun. I have never tried burning out carbon build up, but I expect it would, on small jobs. The flame temperature is extremely high (oxy/acet levels). So it may do the job on small two stroke ports and such. Carbon acts as an insulator and it remains to be seen how effective it would be, given the size of the flame. Cheers Rob

Cook a sausage very slowly ;)

I can't give an exact figure as it uses such a small amount of electrolyte and electricity. Extremely cheap to run.

Banggood

It might do 1/4" but I think that would be it.

xynudu ok thanks for feedback

Good point.

John O those Chinese plugs are a buggar you need to flip the switch on before plugging into the socket

Only small diameter wire. You can't melt and cast with it.

It definitely should, provided you have added an electrolyte to the distilled water. It won't rise or make gas without the correct electrolyte.

No.

Hi Lez, yes you will need something much more powerful for cycle frames - oxy/LPG should do it well. Cheers Rob

No. The heat loss would be too great. Even though flame temperature is very high, the number of Bthu is very low. I tried it on aluminium and it didn't even melt it. Cheers Rob

@@Xynudu Ok cheers.

Depends on the type of metal.

You shouldn't weld iron or steel because of the hydrogen embrittlement problem.

It brings out the destructive element in us. What could be better than burning holes in metal tin can bottoms just because you can ? Cheers Rob

Did you see any explosion when I lit a match ? Of course not.

@@Xynudu I was only expressing concern for your safety. But geez what a stupid thing to say. I can just imagine you playing Russian Roulette.. "I've pulled the trigger 5 times so it must be perfectly safe" (pulls trigger a 6th time....and...BANG!)

To clarify the issue - the gas flow from the torch is so low and is diluted so much by the atmosphere that any chance of an explosion is extremely unlikely. Same situation as using oxy/ acet where you also vent the torch before lighting to prevent flashback. All clear now ?

Australia Post doesn't get up to the antics I've seen in videos from other countries (USA) where they treat parcels like basket balls. LOL. And you wonder why they get dented ? Cheers Rob

@@Xynudu i beg to differ mate..im in gladstone qld..3 machines purchased with insurance paid and all 3 arrived damaged with no avenue of replacement unless i covered freight to china..not a happy tig or plasms camper i can tell you..

OK now I'm with you. I can rarely tell where viewers are from in comments. I assumed it was the USA drop kick delivery service at work ;) That's bad luck or maybe your delivery guy is a bit rough. I get a lot of parcels from BG (obviously) and nothing has ever arrived with damage. The box may be a bit beat up at times, but the items are always intact. I was expecting this unit to possibly arrive damaged as I have seen another video where it arrived dented, and it is a large easily damaged item, but as shown in the video, I was genuinely surprised it made it here OK. Luck of the draw. Cheers Rob

Ha Ha. There you go. Dents included from the factory at no extra charge. Bargain ;)

Yes and yes. They also go boom when lit ;)

Your flame temperature is totally wrong. The amount of heat energy released is independent of the mode of combustion, but the temperature of the flame varies. The maximum temperature is about 2,800 °C (5,100 °F). The H160 unit can easily achieve this.

xynudu Ive seen it demonstrated. Its kind of a known fact among researchers who do experiments with this technology.

xynudu Its not the heat that vaporises the tungsten. Its the electrons. The electron clusters. The EVOs.

It burns at over 2000 C. I don't know where you got 130 C from. LOL

xynudu Have you measured it yourself or are you just getting the temperature from a book?

Makes for a nice explosion when you light it ;) Of course I would never do anything like that.

That's why the bubbler is there. No boom ;)

Hi Keith, the consensus of viewers is that I'm wrong on this The internet also agrees with you. So I stand corrected. Do as the user diagram shows and add the chemical to the water slowly. Cheers Rob