I know nothing of HVAC. I just enjoy watching different trades at work. If I ever hire a professional, I hope he’s as professional as you, Ted. You’re the Bob Ross of HVAC. Greetings from Southern Illinois.
HVAC people who are honest and experienced are needed all over the world , there's good money in it but there's also a bunch of headache's in the field and it can be dangerous in the fact that some compressor units actually Blow up
Hey KC, I know nothing also, but I enjoy watching the videos of the trades. Now I know that I know more than the HVAC tradesman. In my work there was the correct way ONLY. Lol.
My dad and brother are both electricians so I have spent much time with both of them in the field. If I would of done like the guy before you Ted and wrapped a wired around the male spade connector vs. attaching a female connector they would of drowned me in the river. Thank you for your video 😊
Wow I see alot of videos where you guys have to work in crawlspaces or in a attic. Damn I can't imagine the knee pain you techs get. Up north we're lucky to have basements
Enjoy your trouble shooting. I'm an 81 year old recovering mechanical engineer and a non-HVAC guy. I just have a curiosity and time on my hands. You have given me a lot of new understanding. Live in AZ where HVAC is a life essential.
Wish we had a guy like you up here in South Jersey, air stopped working so I call a big box company in who replaced a fuse in the disconnect and said my compressor was bad in a 15 year old Bryant Evolution and needed a new system, quoted $15000 for 70000 btu heater and 3 ton AC!! I had a local guy look at it and found it needed a run cap and cleaning!
Those G24s’ can be fun, the surelight board can make you wonder about the pressure switch sometimes, it’s not a bad idea to clear those ports on the inducer, (rust build up) Yep it’s a ‘95; the third and forth number in the serial will tell you the year of manufacture
Note how the extra read and orange primary taps, probably the 208v & 240v, on the control transformer are just cut and not capped. They are still hot and at 208v and 240v respectively due to autotransformer action. They must be safely capped. EDIT: I do see the extra tap leads are at least capped on the kludged in fan transformer.
I NEVER cared for that Rheem design for their Condensing Units with the louvers over the fins. Damn hard to clean. Couple that with a spaghetti mess for wiring, and a hack job installation, makes for a miserable job.
Rheem makes excellent furnaces and outside condensers, their indoor ac coils are not great , other than the coils I prefer Rheem over trane, that’s just my opinion though.
Well it all depends did you use dry nitrogen and did you have a vacuum pump and a micrometer and next one may or may not apply if you got a gas furnace did you set your gas pressure that is my big question from Kevin Reliable Heating and Cooling of Sedalia Missouri
For the sake of your system and anyone who has to come behind you, I hope you did it right. Because I can get a turd to pass inspection, don’t mean it won’t stink.
This stuff isn’t rocket science as long as you know what you don’t know. A couple dozen RU-vid training videos, some good reading, and a decent set of tools is sufficient to do it correctly. If you’re just doing your own stuff, worst case you cook your own system.
This is probably a silly question, but do AC repair people work on window units/through wall units? I don't know about the smaller ones, but may be the larger ones? I know the smaller ones have sealed refrigeration systems, but may be the larger one might be different. We have this 12,000 BTU, 120 volt window unit that had a motor fail on it. I found the exact motor online for around $100 and replaced it myself. The rubber grommets/feet of the compressor were rotted away, so I filled those areas with silicone which quieted the air conditioner quite a bit. I knew that silicone can handle high temperatures. The only real tricky part about replacing the motor was being careful with the refrigerant lines. After I was done, it worked like a brand new air conditioner. I couldn't afford a brand new 12,000 BTU air conditioner, so I'd say that $100 was a real bargain. I'm thinking that in a lot of cases with window air conditioners, as long as the refrigeration system is in good, working order, the air conditioner might be worth saving. Capacitors are probably the easiest things to replace on them. That 12,000 BTU air conditioner was actually second hand with a couple of smaller, brain dead, digital air conditioners. On the digital ones, I use disconnected the broken electronics and wired the fan and motor to work with an external relay controlled by a central thermostat. The window units come with a circuit diagram on a sheet of paper inside the air conditioner that helps a lot with that. I don't know if they still provide that with new ones. Window units controlled by a central thermostat work great! The motor can cool down in between cycles since it doesn't need to constantly sample the air temperature for the thermostat. I liked it so much that my replacement air conditioner was analog so I could continue using an external thermostat with it. It also prevents freeze-ups because it uses it's own thermostat to monitor the coil temperature. I had issues with that with the brain dead ones I modified. I just got a Chinese thermostat relay and stuck the sensor in the coil to solve that problem. I've even added a delay circuit for power failures. Yeah, our entire central heat and air system is busted, but I do love the zonal control I get now. Saves money on the electric bill.
Wow, that even beats what I see in WV/Ohio service. As usual the outside coil has an afghan sweater on. That common should get the license pulled if they have one. Wow!
Delay was "crawlspace safety" where the fan was evacuating the crawlspace, its supposed to also connect to a pressure sensor. That way if your crawlspace is completely snowed in the furnace can check for airflow. Canada hardware thing.
20 seer installed by a idiot could end up a 12 seer. And you will never be the wiser. Installer must be smarter than a service tech. At least, smart enough to read the instructions!! DIY homeowners will make me rich. Florida market, let me know
Yessiree....lots of filth in them condensing coils and too much plant growth surrounding the unit. I agree on the thermistor sensor, it surely isn't providing any accuracy with that location. You really have to wonder how some HVAC companies operate...those connections on the main board were something a child could do. Wrap the spade terminal with the wire? Where did that procedure get approved? I can't imagine how a main board replacement would have gone had the previous HVAC folks been given the okay to do that unless they "milked" the customer after installing one and nothing changed.
Its because If the refrigerant is inadequate the pressure will become too low. an analogy would be going too a high altitude , low pressure equals lower temperature. you want the pressure to be adequate to transfer the heat properly without freezing and you verify this by checking Subcooling and superheat TXV and Piston/orfice ( respectively)
I think I just learned why they put the furnace in the attic in many of your videos. No basements. Why no basements. Cable management seems to be forgotten in these devices?
minute mark 1:30 shows a humidistat on the return plenum, which one is being used? And no need to disconnect Y at the furnace, just pull the a/c disconnect if you do not want the a/c on while you thaw the coil and when you are ready to check charge put the gauges on and put the disconnect back in! IT IS NOT ROCKET SCIENCE! 330PSI IS NOT EXCESSIVE HEAD PRESSUE, ESPECIALLY AFTER YOU SPENT 30 MINS BLASTING THE EVAPORATOR WITH THE FURNACE! RHEEMS ARE NOTORIOUS FOR THEIR DIRTY COILS AND LIKE THE CARRIER TRASH CAN UNITS, ONCE YOU CLEAN THE CONDENSER COIL THE PRESSURES NOSE DIVE AND YOU FIND IT IS ACTUALLY LOW ON CHARGE!
Some of the boards have a humidifier contact on them and old murcury tstat would fry the heat anticipater when jumping r to w I have used the cover to block air toheat up condenser to dry coil faster
Yup, that's a 95 model furnace. My least favorite lennox furnace ever made. Oh, you wanna access the blower? HA! You have to remove the panel that houses the furnace control to look at the blower/capacitor. Oh, the draft inducer needs replacing?HA! You have to remove the header and then try to get the rusted screws out of the flame side of the header to remove and install it. The door safety switch is also located on the panel itself, which is a pain in the @$$ to remove and replace. Lennox's worst 80%furnace EVER!
I mean technically you can feed power coming out of the second speed fan winding only downfall is it's only going to have power when the fans on and when it's off it'll be useless sings how it's driven from the internal windings of the fan but still not a bright idea unless you just need something that's only triggered when the fans on but also can only be lower amperage
Practically everybody installs ducts like that. It doesn't really work when you measure the airflow and compare it with what the system should have (400cfm/ton).
needs a furnace cause is 25 years old hell mine is a ge furnace from 1976 not efficient but still kicking ass that old furnace will last while longer them old furnaces were made to last not like the new ones
seems like what they did, heat speed to second transformer feeding humidifier, problem is voltage coming back from blower winding's would power that transformer, at probably far higher voltages than rated for. I'd assume it's cooked and worse, maybe killed the board, transformer and humidifier. needed a relay added or board with "humidifier output" terminal (line voltage)
there definitely was no flyback diode on that little mess.. ive sometimes seen people hook it to the heat call from the stat.. I guess with a mister they wanted it only to come on with the heat fan and not during the purge and pre-heat.. looked like in the beginning of the video there was a humidistat also on the return. maybe they installed the first one on the supply, screwed up and put on on the return.. I guess down south maybe they dont need to worry about turning the humidistat down for super cold weather.. up north when it gets down in the low teens / single digits outside you often have to lower your humidistat so it doesnt cause condensation n the windows.. so we put the stats near the temp stat or have humidity incorporated into the main stat (I like to install VenStar).. they are a commercial stat but give the customer a nice color screen and ability to control with an app
old school heat exchanger test, is fine on all units with exhaust gas draft inducer. but on positive pressure incoming be weary (downflow junk in mobile homes anyone?) although the indoor blower pressure would likely overcome it and keep the whole cycle from giving CO gas, the pre-heat before blower stage would be pumping CO gas in
My 5 year old lennox condenser died after replacing a coil and a compressor, I watch your videos quite often and respect your opinion what's a good brand to be looking for? Thank you.
