Hall Effect Joystick Replacement for the PS5 DualSense 

Thank you very much.

Hello, which one is better?

@syn80 which one is better

@@annoyedgamer1 I've only personally used the orange/yellow joysticks that have a red circuit board that say "L-8K" and I'm not having any issues with them.

​@syn80 do 9lonly fit thw hall effect stick or a driver board as well?

how this went?

Did you get it done? How are they?

@@kingdeedee i did install them and the sticks work, but i must have a soldering glitch because the right stick button press is acting weird. Once ive had a chance to work on it, ill report back.

@@OnlyWayOutIsThroughdid smth happen?

@@OnlyWayOutIsThrough update?

Glad it was helpful!

@@metalplasticelectronics354hey i have been researching these and im wondering fo these have sny latency and what version are tgey

Thanks

I don't have an Xbox controller. I guess I should get one, take it apart, and do a video.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 If you're in the US damaged ones can be had on ebay for relatively cheap. Shoot for a series s/x one. They have USB C. I'm only using this older xbox one controller since a friend gave it to me. 1708 model Dunno if the newer ones have a daughterboard or not. I think so though.

I did put some of my force testing in the video. The force to move the Hall sensor joystick and the Favor Union are about the same. I think the Hall sensor joystick force to move is a bit more even over it’s entire range of movement. I want to say it feels smoother, but I’m not sure that’s the best way to describe it. But I do find myself reaching for the controller I put the Hall sensor in first. I guess that does say something about it.

@@metalplasticelectronics354jinful g unit sticks have less slop that traditional alps, so maybe that’s what you’re feeling.

would you say those blue ones are better than the orange ones?

Glad it helped

Thanks

Have you tried them yet?

Updates?

Brooo any fucking updates?

I sure don't. I just saw these when I was looking for another part. They were so cheap, I thought I've got to see how those work.

I don’t know for sure. There was a comment that these are a later version of the hall sensor and they filter out the jitter but I’m not sure. Guess I should see if can figure out a test setup to see what kind of response they do have. They do have a different feel than the regular joystick. And I want to say they just feel a little smoother, but not in a mechanical sort of way, if that makes any sense.

It must not be standard software that runs on a PC, or it probably would have leaked out by now.

The ones I just got from Amazon have that stamped on them, I would say they are later versions.

I know that the PS4 and PS5 controllers run at different voltages. That may require a different hall module. So they may not be the same.

Cleaning them is only a temporary fix. It's the potentiometer element flaking off or just wearing out causing the drift.

This is a version 1 controller. It has kept up with as fast as I can spin it.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 no you got me wrong I meant the orange hall effect sticks themselves they had 3 releases the last one called V3 which claimed to be jitterless it was the only module that can get wrong fast circular movements readouts Look at the gamepad tester at 5:42 when you started moving it in fast circular movements you can see how inaccurate it was

I see, it does seem to have a slower response than the regular joystick. That may be where the different feel is coming from.

​​@@user-en5gu3dd9j Looks like they just threw a 1uF capacitor on it or something for this batch. Yikes

@@holopenginissue is fixed in later batches, can confirm first hand.

Not really. It almost sounds like there is a mechanical problem with the joystick. I think I would try and use it as much as possible and see if it gets any better with use. Maybe the plastic centering parts will get a bit smoother.

It’s an old Hakko 470 so it doesn’t have a temperature readout. I run it at about 90%. I would expect it runs 750 to 800 degrees F.

I have my hakko Fr-301 set to 250 degrees Celsius. I would recommend a lower temp if working on Xbox one s controllers. The joystick pads are much less heat resistant than Sony or later generation Xbox controller boards in my experience.

Hola, yo compré en aliexpres también, y al instalar el mando me dejó de funcionar, se vuelve todo loco, que puede ser? Gracias😢

@@akagicac Cuando el sensor de efecto Hall se reemplaza con soldadura, es posible que sea necesario ajustarlo, pero si no funciona por sí mismo, la soldadura suele ser mala. Parece que hay que volver a instalarlo después de retirarlo.

@@hyunwookim6628 gracias por contestar, lo que me pasa es q el mando dejó de funcionar por completo, se mueven todos los botones, es como que al instalar el joystic se volvio todo el mando loco

No, I've never used any.

No, they are not interchangeable.

Have fun, it's great getting something working that was broken.

No, it want fit. While the sensor will snap on a Favor Union joystick frame. The magnetic part requires a different shaft.

​@@metalplasticelectronics354ok thanks

It maxes out before it touches the case stop. But just by a small amount.

You might try a different browser. If your using Windows there might be an updated driver that needs to be installed. I’m using linux so not sure about the Windows driver.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 thank you for your answers

No shouldn't need anything extra. is the stick position reading all the way up and left, center, or down and right? The number on the Hall sensor I used is 93L35. What is the number on yours? I wonder if they sent you the wrong ones.

Technically you could by these and retrofit them to the elite but you probably never get center set right

@@RNG_AnarchistI was thinking about that but it’s probably just worth it to let someone make a set or just the sensor part

@@RNG_AnarchistI’ve also got a 3d printer and I heard that the little magnet has a different shaft so I could make something for that

No I sure don't.

Just to the left or upper left? I think upper left is 0 volts output from both pots, but I'm not positive. The fact that two controllers did it is very strange. I've only install the one hall joystick, but it's still working fine. If it's just to the left and up and down work fine, then it's either 0 volts or 1.8 volts on the center tap of the bottom hall sensor. Would need a volt meter to check and see.

just perfectly left, after changing hall to another same problem, reset controller blocked too@@metalplasticelectronics354

Exactly the same thing happened to me on 2 controls with the right joystick, it seems that the board was decalibrated, did you fix it by returning to the classic joystick?

replaced it with a new hall-effect, worked for 2 hours, then it happened again...@@gustavom3587

same thing just happened with mine, worked fine for a while... i turned it off and back on, then right stick all the way left no matter what.

It's probably not messed up; it might just be loose. It all just presses together. See at about the 1:20 mark in the video. You might unclip the sensor part and try to push the center bushing back into the magnet piece.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thx man! I'll try to open and realign the magnet.

If that's the one with the special threaded shaft, then sorry, I don't know. KasynParts.com does have the Hall Effect joystick for the regular Xboxone controller.

NVM! Turns out I am terrible at soldering! (No surprise, first time). Anyways, i got the new stick in, used that new calibration website from your other video and everything works great! Thanks for all the help!!

Glad it helped.

There are later versions of this joystick. See this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3AVXbBMNcqA.htmlsi=FAKPK013vck4Novp

I've never worked on an Xbox controller. So I don't know what the voltage would be. If it is all the way down and to the right, I would suspect a bad ground or voltage supply to the joystick potentiometers. If it’s just a little bit off, is there a way to calibrate the Xbox controller? The replacement joystick will almost certainly have a different center value.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thanks for ther reply. they are clearly slightly off center which can be adjusted but i think it is a bad ground as you say as it is showing up as if someone is pulling hard down and to the right continuously

I don't know. I just got two kits from Amazon, but I haven't had time to test them yet. I hope to get to them next week.

Still haven't had time to test the new kits from Amazon but both kits have the orange sensors and have red PC board with black writing. So I'm pretty sure the black writing is a later revision.

I don't think those will work with the Hall effect joysticks.

Take a look at this for the calibration: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0fK1sapv0YI.htmlsi=Rslcgqs7QcLpviv2

@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thank you!

Well, it is a possibility that the original potentiometer was very far off center. Will the magnet piece not adjust enough to center it?

@@metalplasticelectronics354 its not a centering problem, the range is restricted to the left half of the circle only, and won't even touch anything past the center line regardless of magnet position. It's bizarre. Im wondering if its a manufacturing defect of some kind, or if it's possible for a crossed wire to cause it.

Oh, that is strange. If the center tap goes from 0 to 1.8 volts, then I think the hall sensor is okay. Have you tried resetting the controller? If I remember correctly, 0 volts should be all the way left, and 1.8 volts should be all the way right. Double check the center pin of the hall sensor and make sure it is soldered well. A high-resistance joint might cause it.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 resetting the controller seems to have helped. Only issue left was that moving one stick up or down made the other one move left to right in the test app, but as far as i can tell, that doesn't translate to a problem in game.

Yea, that's probably a bug in the web browser. Glad you got working.

The circularity is more than full. These Hall sensors seem to max out before the thumb knob hits the case stop. I think that might be part of the different feel they have.

Any ideas how to make the thumb stick max out close to the case?

@@NeoDrenI think you have to buy a third party calibration board for the Dualsense. There is a software tool for calibrating the DualShock 4 but not the dualsense unfortunately.

Could possibly unclip the hall sensor part from the joystick frame and bend it away a bit. Putting a bit more distance between the sensor and the magnet. Centering might be a bit more challenging. But it’s really not bad the way it is.

hardwaretester.com/gamepad

@@metalplasticelectronics354 thank you so much

Even though I don't have an Xbox, I guess I'm going to have to get an Xbox controller to take apart. See what voltage it runs the joysticks at.

No, it should be fine.

Double check and make sure don’t have any solder shorting out anything. If you have a volt meter check and see what the voltage is on the center terminal of the hall sensor. It’s probably going to be 0 volts if I remember upper left correctly. So something may be shorting out the 1.8 volts to the joystick module.

Ok, I'll check it. Thanks!@@metalplasticelectronics354

@@metalplasticelectronics354 I checked it and cleaned up again and still the same. I unsolded hall effect joystick and solded new ALPS joystick to see if something changed and nothing happens. No idea why this problem is happening 😪 I've already tried everything

Would need a meter to check and see if getting voltage to the joystick. That is the only think I can think of to try.

When I put alps joysticks on a ps4 controller the first set I put on I moved the analog stick before it cooled down and I think it being heated up and moved caused the plastic to cool in a slightly different position than the factory position. I put another 2 new analog sticks on and didn’t hold the soldering gun to the pins as long and also let it cool down before touching the analog stick. Then I rotated the old one I messed up, and the new one, and the old one was way stiffer like I fused plastic parts together by applying heat for too long. The new ones have no stick drift but the circulatory was 20 percent rather than less than 10 percent like my new controllers. So to conclude I believe it was my installation error by applying too much heat for too long on the first ones. Then the circulatory issue of 20 percent was the same for both so I think I just bought cheap analog sticks is the problem with that.

It was my first time soldering /desoldering something and wanted to give it a go. Took me 3 hours to do it but in the end I succeeded (mostly due to lack of a desoldering pump). I actually used replacement joysticks with potentiometers(blue ones). Overall very rewarding experience to fix something that is broken.

I think it was around 18%.

Didn't see any listed. I don't have one to check and see what voltage they operate at. May be the same ones that go in the DualSense.

You would have to use the entire joystick module, as the sensor will not fit on either the Alps or Favor Union joysticks.

Yea the entire module i dont wanna keep the old housing or such, if its same size i will go full conversion. if it works im down to spend some money for it@@metalplasticelectronics354

Yeah i'd fully convert them to it, i aint leaving anything from the old ones behind. ifthat works then yeah, i'd spend the money @@metalplasticelectronics354

If they mechanically fit, the next thing would be to find out what voltage the oculus uses for the potentiometers. The DualSense supplies 1.8 volts to the joysticks. The DualShock is 3.3 volts, if I remember right. I'm not sure what the XBox controller uses. But Kasynparts has four versions, and it wouldn't surprise me if the only difference is the voltage they operate at.

Okay- i'll have a looksie what the voltage is and the size if i find, if all id gonna im gonna try it. Thanks for the info!@@metalplasticelectronics354

It's a web site hardwaretester.com/gamepad seems to work well.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 You should add it to the description tbh

I guess I should, don't think RU-vid would have a problem with that.

The one I’m using is a very old Hakko 470 desoldering station. It’s been discontinued for years. There are some knock offs on Amazon. Will see them listed as a vacuum desoldering station or desoldering gun. I don’t know how well the ones on Amazon work but it’s just a vacuum pump and a heater with a hollow tube in the center for the solder to get sucked through.

Hey, if you were able to do a pros and cons video about your gun, would be awesome. Thanks for the reply.

You will need a temperature controlled soldering iron, doesn’t have to be an expensive one. But get one that is at least 60 watts. I use the Hakko FX-951 but it’s expensive. Any good tin/lead electrical solder will work. I’ve always like the Kester #44 63/37. Get some solder wick. Take a look at this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zxc6VIb8Ox0.html. Most of the time I use a vacuum desoldering gun to remove the joysticks. I don’t know how well the cheap ones on Amazon work. But take a look at this video for removing the joystick without a vacuum desoldering gun ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-slxgHcYHnm8.html. The PC board holder comes from Amazon. Just search for PC board holder, it’s sold under a few different brands, should be less than 20 dollars.

Thank you!!

Ok, I got everything on the list and watched the videos. I cant seem to get the holes cleared with the wick. Any tips? Thank you!

Fresh solder in the holes and maybe a bit of extra flux. You can even put some extra flux on the solder wick; that sometimes helps. As a last resort, you can use a stainless steel sewing needle. Make sure the needle is not gold-plated; solder will stick to gold-plated needles. Heat the pad very well, and then push the solder out of it with the needle. But you might want to take a look at this before you try the needle: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-slxgHcYHnm8.htmlsi=yVOJ88DuWAiCK4k8 Good luck.

Thanks again!

Still working fine.

There are versions for the dualshock controller. I don't really know if there is any difference.

I don't think you can. Not without some added circuity.

Oh, I'm saving up.

You might take a look at this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cWUnZ7KjUIQ.html . You will need a multimeter.

thanks for the next video checked the voltage on both sticks on each 1.8 volts when I connect the battery it appears for 3 seconds then it disappears

I can't understand what it means when the diode blinks three times, it happens when you connect a type C ,battery or put it in a docking station

Look very carefully over the PC board and make sure a solder splash hasn't shorted something out. It kind of sounds like the power supply is shutting down. Maybe too much current is being pulled. I don't know about the blinking. What color LED blinks?

flashes orange three times

Yep, that would solve all the problems and would be so easy. That really is a knock on Sony that they haven't added that.

It doesn't seem to be lag as much as the Hall sensor high-to-low slew rate. Take a look at this video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_6DDGpdiuLU.html

There is not really any calibration. You have to mechanically position the magnet piece to set the center position.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 ty for response! There are videos that showing the modes that you can calibrate to that site "gamepad tester " ...I recently changed my joysticks to hall effect joysticks! The mechanic that put them to my controller calibrate them ..but I wanted a 100% calibration to do my self and see how it is done..

I'm not sure what you mean by "modes you can calibrate." Can you give me the title of a video I can look at and see?

You should look at the Ginfull V5. It's my favorite so far.

It shouldn't. The controller has a voltage regulator that will supply 1.8 volts.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 good 👌👌

Are they regular joystick modules or hall effect sensor joystick modules? The PS5 hall sensor ones are made to run off of 1.8 volts, I don’t know about the others.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 si, son de efecto hall

Then I would suspect they are not the correct ones for the PS5. If it list them for use in both the PS4 and PS5 that is probably a cause for concern.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 ok, muchas gracias por tu tiempo. Muy agradecido ☺️ PD. Mañana desmontare el joystick, espero que vuelva a funcionar el mando 🙏

​@@akagicaclo resolviste? Yo instale los hall en 2 controles y paso lo mismo se quedan con drift a los dias

Still the same as when I installed it.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 amazing!

I don't know, It seems to be a kinda DIY thing.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 damn I'm not competent enough to do this you'd think with all the tech wizards who could jailbreak a ps3 or sell custom controllers with backpaddles there'd be a market for installing a mod for controllers with technology that was invented in the 90s so we don't get stick drift Better yet you'd think the big companies like Sony and Microsoft would just switch from analog to hall effect and stop being cheap and greedy capitalism wins again ig

Kasynparts lists models for PS4, PS5, Switch-Pro, and Xbox One. I think it would depend on what voltage the series X/S controllers run at. The DualSense runs at 1.8 volts. The DualShock runs at 3.3 volts. I don't know about the others.

I don't know. Is that a RU-vid channel?

It brought a smile to my face. Thanks for the comment.

I have a working, but trashed xbox X|S PCB, I will purchase these hall effect and have a go with a solder-sucker and a cheapo iron. I need to bodge job a USB C port with hopefully only broken anchor points, any vids?@@metalplasticelectronics354

No xbox so haven't had to repair anything from one, sorry.

Cap. I use mine perfectly fine. These are more precise than regular sticks