Really helpful and explained in a clear and concise manner. I have the A3-41 and it went out of adjustment during a move from one room to another in my shop. This gives me the confidence to try the calibration myself without incurring another expensive service call. Thanks a lot for sharing your experience.
I bought a second hand 2008 model which is slightly different to adjust. No manual to be found even after contacting felder. This video helped immensely despite the differences. Thanks so much!
About your board we know some as spring tentions that make it difficult to get a perfect flat joint 😊 Thank for your video I just changed the cutter for the silence type like you have on your machine so I have to adjust everything. But I try to have the top out feed parallel to the planer one probably not necessary 😊
7 years and over 10,000 board feet, that's a lot of saw dust. Thanks for the video, looks like best jointer planer for hobby work on the market. Leave it to the Australians to make the best machines, aye mate!
Hello there ! Thank you for your video. I just have one thing to say. If you need to adjust jointers table, you can touch the screws you show on video, but it's not advised. Thoses screws are only the screws that hold tables on the frame. There is other screws , on each side of the springs (4, used to move tables from left to right) and below and above (4 too, used to move tables up and down) I hope I have been clear. If not, I can take pictures and send it.
Thank you very much for this detailed explanation. On other Felder video I saw that infeed planer roller should be 0.9 mm lower than cutting blade. But what about outfeed?
Great information! I have this machine as well but I never noticed the hollow on the planer table (so it really seems to be no big deal). What I noticed however is a hollow on the fence (in vertical direction of less than 2 thousands/4 hundreds of a millimeter). As you already mentioned this is probably a lot better than a bow (which is probably why they do it). Regarding the jointer tables being convex: when the machine is delivered from Felder this is already adjusted this way intentionally. As you showed this is no big deal at all. However if someone notices that the resulting cupping of milled boards is too much: try to put pressure only on the side of the outfeed table asap while milling. The orientation of the infeed table will become a lot less important.
I think you’re spot on with the infeed and outfeed being concave. It can cause a little cup, but if you apply more pressure on the outfeed side then it’s not a big deal.
I have the same machine and noticed the same hollow jointer and planer beds. To become the best results one should always feed boards through the center of both jointer and planer. By doing so, the results are very good. I really like how this machine performs.
I have the same until and I bought the extension to the jointer bed. Haven’t found a video on setting it up. I think I did it right, but I’d love to see how you would do it. Thx
Parts of your presentation were very helpful. (I own a A3 41 Hammer) However, I need specifics about how to make certain my helical cutter head and the two rollers are calibrated exactly for best function. Felder, so far, has not been any help. I have two project sitting which are for a charity event. Help give me a clearer understanding of how to adjust and set up these three parts relative to the planar bed.If you know where I can get this information I could really use that! Much appreciated!
Yeah, it was definitely a learning experience for me. I will say that the machine came to me in really good condition though, so I lucked out in that respect.
I have been looking for a video on this and I am thrilled to finally see this. I have already paid over $1000 in calibration fees ($500 to the guy who sold it to me and made a hell of a mess calibrating it and another $500 for a guy to fix his mistakes - yeah it’s a long story). Bottom line, I am extremely grateful for the explanation.
@@prestonhoffman5695 Hey Preston, Here’s my situation - I am testing the calibration of my A3-31 as it is not performing well. I have had it for 2 years, I am a hobby woodworker so it has not seen a lot of action but it worked amazing until my last move. To get my Hammer into my new shop from my last shop, it had to be lifted by the tables (several guys by hand - Nov 2020). Unavoidable unfortunately. This is when my machine started performing poorly so I hired the guy who sold it to me to fix it - He made it far worse - unusable in fact. I finally hired another guy to fix it (again) in late December and it seemed to work fine for a couple months. Now it’s acting up again, so I was researching and found your video (thank you again for that) and in testing the calibration it is in need of some adjustments. So I think I am ready to try and calibrate this myself and before proceed I was hoping to run a couple things past you. Firstly… Testing the outfeed table calibration: I am using a Veritas 48 inch straight edge which is to my knowledge reliable. As per your recommendation in your video, I tested the oufeed table with my straight edge rather than a digital gauge and did it as follows: I set the straight edge on my outfeed table, overhanging the cutter blade, and rotated the blade forward. The blade pushes the straight edge to the right roughly (5mm on the far side, 9mm on the operator side). So after watching your video, I am guessing the outfeed is too low as it is doing more than just making a ticking sound. My first question - Is it critical that the table is level from left to right or just critical in relation to the cutter (front to back)? Infeed: With the infeed table raised all the way up, and the straight edge balanced on the outfeed table I can see the table is NOT co-planer (obviously I’d test this again after fixing the outfeed table). Currently, the infeed table tilts TOWARD the cutter. There is a small space between the straight edge and the table closest to the cutter. On the operator side, the straight edge finally makes contact with the table about 425mm from the cutter head. (using a .02mm feeler gauge) On the far side of the table, the straight edge makes contact at about 450mm. I am assuming that I just need to adjust all 4 points so that it is co-planer with the outfeed, and if anything sloping slightly away from the cutter? After hiring this last guy to calibrate it, the machine worked fine. This was 2 months ago… Now it’s out again. The machine has been used a bit, not lifted by the tables (other than using the handles to switch from jointing to planing mode) and it’s out… Does this seem possible? What has happened?? I know you probably don’t have a crystal ball, I guess I am just frustrated in the inconsistency of this machine and was wondering if you had heard of this machine just slipping out like that. And sorry, one more question… The handles that lock the table down… How tight should they be during operation? Will this affect accuracy? I never used to tighten them too hard but the last guy said if I wanted consistency I should be cranking them down pretty tight. Is this what’s throwing out my calibration? How tight is good? I really appreciate your video and I am very sorry for the long winded message. Any input you might have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jason
Sorry to hear about your calibration issues. The process can be pretty frustrating. I will do my best to answer your questions. 1) The outfeed table needs to be calibrated first, as you already know. The surface of the outfeed table needs to be coplaner with the top of the knives (left to right). If you rest your straight edge on the outfeed table and rotate the cutter block then the straight edge should not lift up from the outfeed table. You should only hear the slightest nick. 2) In addition, you will want to keep the tables relatively level ( “- -“ vs “/ \”) because you will eventually be calibrating them infeed table. This will be impossible if the tables tilt away from each other too much. 3) when you think you have the outfeed table dialed in then tighten your adjustment bolts. I really cranked down on mine to ensure they would not move. Unfortunately, after tightening you may get some tolerance drift. I recall needing to loosen the bolts, making adjustments (accounting for my tightening) and the snugging everything up again. 4) calibrate the outfeed table. It should be similar to the infeed but slightly easier. You are going for coplaner with the outfeed table. 5) To answer your question about the locking knobs, they are tight. The most important function for them is the table should not move when they are tightened. The table should not be able to be lifted or pushed down. I did not cover the locking knobs that well in my video. They are tricky to dial in, but they are critical to get right.
Preston, my a341 seems to have a slight \ on the indeed side of the jointer and I always feel like I'm taking more of the front of the board than the back... how much is acceptable and do you have a video or instructions to make the actual adjustments as opposed to the overview of them in this video? Thanks!
Thank you for the great presentation of where the adjustments can be made. Unfortunately for me, I have the same machine and have not had the same quality results. It's too bad everything worked so well in your demonstration and you didn't have to actually make any adjustments to show how you fix snipe or other issues, I would've liked to see you actually make adjustments. When I first got my machine felder/hammer charged me a considerable sum to have a technician come out for several hours to adjust the machine which they said had to be damaged in shipping or something because they send their machines out fully calibrated - that wasn't my situation. The infeed and outfeed tables were out of coplanner and the technician spent a long time adjusting everything. I have had the machine for a little over 3 years and have had problems with feeding lumber through the planner and it hanging up at times or cocking through the planner. The service techs are helpful over the phone, but it seems something goes out of adjustment every few months with the planner. More recently i have been having snipe issues. I think I have it corrected but time will tell. I think I am doing the adjustments right by talking to the phone techs and the snipe goes away but after awhile it comes back - so never sure if I did the adjustments right. The design of having the infeed and outfeed table controlled separately with different lock down handles seems to make a difference for me on the jointer. How tight one handle is tightened vs. the other appears to impact the coplanner of the infeed and outfeed table. If I tighten to much on one table or the other I get back end snipe on the jointer. I loosen up a little on the outfeed table lockdown handle (I am old and not strong) so it isn't real tight to begin with and the backend snipe goes away - telling me the head raised a little above the cutting head and therefore at the fginish of the board it didn't nipe the back of the board. When the machine works well it is a beast, but in my case it is so finicky. It may be something to do with operator error, but having it for three years and it working much of the time and then me needing to start making adjustments leads me to believe the machine tolerances are not as tight as some would believe from a German made machine. This sounds like a bunch of whining and I don't mean to do that - what I would like to see is someone actually make the adjustments to the machine to fix issues like snipe - not just point where to do things but actually how they approach the adjustments. Thank you again.
Preston, thanks for taking the time to point out where the adjustments are made, but could you actually go through the process of getting a machine out of coplaner and then restoring it to where it should be. That would be a great help for many of us who are struggling with making the machine work as it should Thanks for any help John Jucas
Wow thank you! I do have to do slight adjustment to my outfeed. I have failed in the past but now I know how. I also need to make adjustments to my feed rollers. I get snipe on thicknesser mode, but I dont know what and how I am measuring, besides sending a new piece through and seeing if my changes made a diferance. Could you expound a little on what the approach is to getting the feed rollers just right?
My last shop was more limited in space, which is partly why I love the combo machines. Even now, with my current setup, I prefer the combo. It saves space, outlet requirements and changeovers are pretty quick. You are really going to like the A3-31.
Very handy tips, Preston. I wish you would also show how to adjust the screws on tjhe back side of planer - what Felder calls the "grub screws". I think those are intended to level the outfeed table. Also, I ended up messing with the screws on the hinges and don't know exactly what they are supposed to do. Can you mention those too? Thanks!
Good tutorial. Do the Hammer extension extrusions align themselves to the tables on the basis of their connection to the mounting rails, or do you need to perfect the alignment by adjusting the length of the support leg? Thanks.
@@prestonhoffman5695 FYI, check out US Patent 4817693. Using only a dead-straight beam, support ledge, and telescopic leg, you can extend any jointer to 10' or more with precise automatic alignment, regardless of depth of cut. I patented the method 30 years ago when I worked on job sites with a lightweight Mafell over-under combo machine. Later we founded a startup to manufacture it as part of a modular universal fence system. You can see pics and more discussion at www.1-FENCE.com. I still occasionally sell components, but you can employ the method using materials lying about your shop. Felder owners, going all the way back to the original cast iron extensions, have reported that this method is by design far more precise and reliable than even the factory extensions.
Thanks for this video Preston. Very helpful tips. I got mine A3-31 recently and I noticed that there is a sag in the infeed jointer table of around 0.02" on the outermost edge. Do you think I should reduce it or this much is within the tolerance?
If it’s at the outermost edge you’re probably ok. It’s really up to you and the tolerances that you need. Personally, I would recommend jointing/planing your boards and if they work well for your project than don’t even worry about it. If you had a .02” sag/tilt near the cutter head, than that would be worse and something worth adjusting.
@@prestonhoffman5695 thanks for your reply. I was able to adjust it using the bolts like you suggested. Another issue that I am facing is with the fence. I squared up the fence and it remains square along the travel on the slide mount except when it starts going towards the back edge. At that point the plastic washer/standoff supporting the fence on the table is on the sheet metal cover at the back which is sort of flimsy. When fence is locked with some/all of it resting on that sheet metal it doesn't lock into perfect square. Did you also face this issue?
I sort of have that problem too. What I mean by that, is I can move my jointer fence to about a 1/2 an inch from the back edge with no issues. If I go farther than that then it won’t stay perfectly square. I’m good with it, because I realize that there is just not a lot of support that far out. Make sure your nylon washer is between the flimsy sheet metal and the bent steel. My nylon washers are not touching the adjustment knob.
Trial and error. Make sure you check out m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rznvmCzA2e8.html This video. There are some small adjustments you can make from the hinges. It doesn’t help me as much, but it may work well for your situation.
Great review on the set up When you use the planer do you lock the “thickness wheel”. (Sorry don’t know what it is called, but hopefully you understand my question. Appreciate your response.
Hi thanks for the video. Quick question regarding adjusting the planer beds after you loosen the four nuts at the back of machine. When you raise the allen set screws to lower the table height the table stays where it is. Any tricks to getting the table to lower. I can see a gap between the set screw and the table but can't get the table to move down to the set screw. I can't find any Felder instructions for this table adjustment.
I admittedly had this problem as well at one point. A couple things. First, don’t loosen those back bolts all the way. Loosen them just enough, so they move with the set screw adjustment. Second, it’s easier to raise the table than lowering it. If you can’t get the table to lower it’s because it is getting supported by some other point on the jointer. Sometimes those mounting bolts are preventing movement. Sometimes the table is balancing on the front set screws. It’s hard for me to diagnose from here, but my suggestion is to find where the hang up is. You may need to more or less start over depending on your situation.
@@prestonhoffman5695 Thanks for the Tips. Ya I think starting from the lowest point and working up from there would be the way to go. I just need to figure out what's preventing them from lowering so I can get them down. I can't see anything that would be stopping them. Have to take another look tomorrow. Have you ever removed the bolts completely? I'd be worried it could be hard to get them back in.
felder should have done a video so good. Thank you. I’m getting a wedge thinner in front, with repeated passes, and the end of the board not always contacting. And the board is bowing hollow in the middle. So that means the outfeed is sagging on the exit side, and the infeed is sagging on the entrance side?
Sounds to me like your tables would look similar to a \ /. I could be wrong though. Do you have a long straight edge? I feel like that would be the easiest way to tell.
Great video man. Unfortunately my A341 came with shipping damage and nothing close to calibrated. At least the tables are all very flat. I’m starting on out feed table now. What do I do if the back side of the cutterhead makes no contact with the straight edge on the outfeed table, but the front edge of the cutterhead makes too much contact? Do I need to adjust the front locking handles and if so how? Any help is much appreciated!
That’s tough. I recently helped a friend calibrate his machine. He had a similar problem. We ended up not needing to adjust the handles on the out-feed. Even with my experience it was a challenge. If you are having trouble adjusting “down”, I would recommend lowering the outfeed and bringing the table “up”. It is way harder to adjust the table “down” and I’m not sure why. I have messed with the handles before. It’s sometimes necessary, but it makes it a lot harder. Just take your time and walk away from it if you’re not getting it and come back.
Thanks for the reply! I eventually figured out that both tables are the same as far as adjustments go. Man those little Allen set screws to adjust a big heavy table is pretty tough. I think I finally got the outfeed side set.
Hey Preston! Hope you are well! Wondering if you have ever replaced the planer tables on this machine? Mine were defective and Felder sent me new tables… debating hiring someone or trying it myself!
I have the same machine. Just setting it up. No power cord attached yet. One thing I have not I’ve is the lever for the infeed table adjustment will not move when I press down on it. There is no sign of damage.....is there some secret handshake? I am I missing something?
That’s odd. They may have some bolts on there too tight. I would take the red front cover off (right next to the height adjustment lever) and inspect those bolts/nuts attached to the linkage. Maybe loosen them a tad and see if that allows movement. Just to be sure. We are talking about the height adjustment lever and not the locking lever? The locking lever tightness is adjusted beneath the infeed table. If you are still having problems just message me and I will take a closer look of what I have out in my shop. Best of luck!
This is the same mistake I made. Pull out (e.g. toward your knees away from the machine) on the handle (lot of force) and push down at the same time. It will come out just over 1/2" and catch and stay in the out position. To release just lift straight up, e.g. toward the ceiling, and the handle will move back into the machine just over 1/2". I just figured this out today (DUH) and had been doing it wrong. For me, the A3-31 was not correctly pulling the boards through the planer and I originally thought there was a problem with the machine.
Thanks for the information I have A3 26 the out feed table is too high from cutter head I just couldn’t figure out how to lower down or up any help I would appreciate
@@prestonhoffman5695 thanks for the reply I don’t know which bolt or srew to lose i am new to woodwork I don’t want to mess with bolt & screw until I am hundred percent sure or seek advice
I understand the hesitancy. It is possible the outfeed is above the cutter head if it is tilted up near the cutterhead. You may be able to lift the back end, but it’s hard to say from my perspective.
Great video man, I have a A3-41 and trying to calibrate the infeed table, and as you said I want to bring it down and start fresh from that point but I don't know why I can't bring it down, do you know why is this happening? 3 of 4 are loose and both screws on the backside are loose and they don't even touch the table and still, I can't bring that side down I really appreciate it man if you help me with that.
Do you have the locking knob disengaged? It should bottom out if all the set screws are loosened and locking knob is disengaged. If you do that, you will have a lot of work ahead of you, but I assure you it can be done. Best of luck!
If you want it to lower some you may need to loosen all 4 bolts. It can be difficult doing it this way, but if the one bolt is holding it up, I don’t see how you have much choice.
Hello. It has the same machine like this. I have been using it for two years now and I think you will find out more of its mistakes over time. And that is that you have to adjust it very often. Because the plate carriers are very weak and small and the plates are heavy and that is a big mistake.
Thanks for commenting. I have had the machine for about 7 years now. It really has done really well for me in that time frame. The tolerances have drifted some over time, but I am pretty rough on my machines. You mentioned the “plate carriers”, can you be more specific in regards to the function of those? I am not sure if I understand what that is exactly.
I was going to comment on this as well, so I will here. Have you noticed the round bolt heads (as you know round = point of contact for better or worse) leaving indentations on the cast iron where it meets the table? I’m surprised they didnt have it meet a hardened plate there. I wonder if this causes machines to go out. I was told later that you hav to be pretty careful to not overtighten tables for this reason, but even being gentle I noticed it.
@@huseinstolar2018 I just adjusted today. Seems like every 1/32nd of a screw rotation is 1/1000”. Or about. What did you notice? Do you recall the bolt size you used? Good idea.
Helpful to some extent but not much of a calibration instruction. You only check that your calibration is within spec and pretty much leave to the viewers to figure out what to do if it's not. Better than nothing though ☺
Truth is, the calibration that I summarized takes several hours and sometimes longer. I may have been able to show some of the actual process, but I found it to be more effective to discuss how it’s actually performed vs a multipart calibration series.
Adjustments are exactly same as infeed if that helps. I agree that a video showing me moving through the calibration would add some value, but not as much as you think. It takes hours to calibrate correctly and my execution is not that refined since I have only done it once for myself and another time for a friend. The important detail is the overall methodology. Start at the outfeed and then move to the infeed.
I just got an A3-41 - I'm not really sure how to use the adjustment screws. Loosening all the bolts at once just allows the whole table to fall, not really sure why two adjustment screws are needed (one for front and one for the back). When all the locking screws are loosened where does the table pivot? Tiny adjustments to the set screws are way more than .001" at the leading edge of the table.
When I Ioosen all the bolts - it makes no difference if I adjust the front set screw or back set screw, the end of the table will still fall away if that makes sense. There is no way to lift the end of the table with all the bolts loosened.
It’s very difficult. I have adjusted an A3-41 for a friend and it took me hours. Another option is to not loosen all the bolts at once (keep at least one tight) and this should prevent it from falling. When all 4 locking screws are loosened the bed is balancing on the set screws and it’s own weight, so it can be hard to adjust. You also have to adjust the locking handle. I hope this helps, but I think you’re just going to have to grind through it.
@@prestonhoffman5695 I appreciate the reply, I haven't had much time to work on it but I'm understanding how it all works now and getting close to where I want to be with the calibration. This video is one of the only resources available, it's been very helpful!
I got my A3 41 about a month ago. I used a floor jack on the end of the bed just to the point where it made contact before loosening the nuts. I also turned the bolts a cpl. turns & that helped relax the pressure on the hinge. This way I could still use the floor jack to assist in raising or lowering the end while adjusting the allen screws.
Does a video exist where someone does an actual calibration on a machine that needs to be calibrated? Watching someone talk about calibration is nice, but I'd really like to see someone perform a calibration.
Definitely the hardest I have ever done. It’s dialed in and haven’t touched it since. I really like having a jointer/planer combo. If I wasn’t in the market for a combo I would not recommend this machine. Combo machines just make sense to me. I wish the price was a little lower, but I can’t imagine having a jointing capacity less than 12 inches at this point.
I could make a dedicated video addressing snipe, because there is quite a bit to talk about. The gist is you need to adjust your infeed or outfeed rollers. Maybe both. I would wax you planer bed, make sure your rollers are coplaner with the bed and adjust them up and down as needed.
@@prestonhoffman5695 appreciate the advice. If I am getting snipe do I adjust the rollers up or down? Or is it not that simple? I only get snipe on the trailing end, if that makes any difference. definitely
If you are getting snipe on the trailing end then you need to adjust the outfeed roller down. The trailing end of the board is “lifting up”, because the outfeed roller is not doing its job. Make sure the roller is still maintained coplaner with the planer bed. Also, don’t move it down too far, because that will cause excess pressure. You will need to make small adjustments and check your work as you go.
@@prestonhoffman5695 I for one, would like to see a video on snipe. Also, please include adjusting the pressure roller for the planer. I have an issue where the board often gets stuck and I'm forced to push the board with a lot of force. I'm making light cuts, no more than one full turn on the adjustment handle. I use Johnson Paste on the beds and it feels very slick. I also tried the "SUPERGLEIT" that Felder sent me. I I've made one attempt to adjust the roller pressure and I'm not happy with the results.
Your infeed table is NOT coplanar with the outfeed table, it is PARALLEL to the outfeed table. If it were coplanar, you wouldn't be removing any material from the workpiece.
@@prestonhoffman5695 For clarification, you are showing the tables when they are locked in to position? If so, when do the tables go from being coplanar to "just" parallel? Thanks!
They should be on the same plane (coplaner) when the infeed table is in the full up position. I found it easiest to calibrate the infeed table when it is coplaner with the outfeed table. The “plane”of the infeed and outfeed table are parallel when cutting (if set up correctly). The infeed table is on a lower - but parallel - plane.
