Eight simple and extremely effective chisel methods to avoid making mistakes during waste removal when making dovetails. The clear explanations and demonstrations coupled with close up camera work were so helpful and certainly will improve our approach and accuracy when using sharp chisels. Many thanks to TEAM Cosman for sharing and providing such inspirational YT content. It makes such a difference and is of great educational and enjoyable content.
Just have to say I’m still fairly new to woodworking and after watching one of the moxon vice build videos, I ordered the kit from the website. I may be new-ish to woodworking, but I’ve been in the business of customer service for a long time. All of that being said, I was blown away that after ordering, I got a voicemail from Rob thanking me for the order and letting me know when it will ship. Not a call from an employee or some contractor/automated service, a call from Rob. I only wish I had been free to take the call and say thank you for such great customer service. You made a subscriber, student, and return customer with a simple phone call! Thanks again!
Wow...very nice advises...the tip about 17 degrees at chisel bevel is so useful...I will soon make a pair for me...thanks for sharing Congratulations from Brazil
Really enjoyed this video and your tips. You have spoke about sharp marking gauges before. Any chance you doing even a short video on sharpening marking gauges. Thank you.
Outstanding instructional as always! I once had a boss who pointed out to everyone under him: “ If you cannot receive instructions then YOU are of no use”!
Thanks fellas. Rob I've told you before but I feel it's worth repeating, it really males my day when I get that notifcation of a new Rob Cosman video. They're always full of really useful information. The camera work is outstanding as well so we can see with great detail exactly what you're talking about. I appreciate what you do immensely. You've got a fantastic team. Keep up the excellent work.
Great video! I would have never thought I would be geeking out over chisel work on dovetails, but here I am. I enjoy how deep you dive into technique and tool prep. It has elevated my work greatly!
You aren’t alone in “geeking out” over Rob’s videos. My daughters have observed me obsessing over Rob’s content and then scurrying out to my shop to test it, and a year or two ago started to refer to my woodworking activities as “wood-dorking”…
When chopping the waste at the baseline, you noted that you "prefer starting on the inside". This may be the same as what I do, but I teach to 'start on the non-show side and finish on the show side'. This ensures that there will be no inadvertent chisel chops sliding through and damaging the show side. With drawers, the show side is inside the drawer; with boxes or cases, it is the outside. Regards from Perth, Derek Cohen
I learned something more this time. Mistake #5 is mine. I always get in troubles when chiseling my dovetails, that's the point where I mess up... Thanks for the tips! 🙏🏻🌞
Oh my, that last one, I learned it the hard way, just like you. I only have the 1/4" in low angle, but I will low grind a 1/2" too. It makes a huge difference in soft woods such as pine or basswood.
Rob, I love your style of teaching and have enjoyed your content for years. Tbis is another great one. I hope you keep it going for many years to come.
Learning something new and I think important for helping me turn out some better woodwork projects every video. Thank you for that. Rob could you explain the advantages of the wooden mallet you use during your chiselling over, lets say a standard 1LB ballpein hammer. I can imagine the greater surface area aimed at the smaller head of the chisel is one, you dont need to keep an eye on where the 1inch head of the hammer is hitting. I would tend to use the broad side of the hammer as it is flat on both sides and creates a bigger surface. With my hammer anyway. My uncle who had emigrated to Australia got me interested in woodwork. He was a carpenter and a saw doctor. He made violins when he retired. He had a bit of trouble finding suitable timber over there as he said the timber just didn't have the tone required. He made his own planes, some the size of his thumb. To have 1% of his skill would make me happy. Keep up the good work.
I like to use what is referred to as a carver mallet , the round head you see me use. the round head is more forgiving as to striking the chisel. with a flat head you can strike with an off angle but not with a round head
Thanks for the tips, Rob! I especially appreciate the shallow bevel angle for use on softwoods. For a while I couldn’t figure out why my freshly sharpened chisels left hideous cuts on pine and fir, then I saw another video you made about that. I don’t have special chisels set aside for that purpose yet, but I plan on it at some point in the future.
i am currently making a few halfblind dovetail/wood hinge gift boxes with the full cosman set of tools for the first time (with all of them) thanks to my brother getting me a shawnshim for xmas to fill out my set up. as always, great info and great timing.
Excellent stuff, Rob! Tip #7 was right on for me today… I’m building a shelf for my shop to store heavy tools such as my arbor press, etc (20-30 lb weight) and the end supports are joined using dovetails (because, why not?). I decided to mill some southern yellow pine construction lumber for this, since it’s just shop furniture; final thickness is a strong 1-1/8”. Well, as I was chiseling out my tails, I kept blowing chunks out of the middle just like you demonstrated. It’s not the first time this has happened, either, despite having my chisels honed scary sharp down to Shapton 16,000. Since I use southern yellow pine a lot, I clearly need a couple of 17-degree chisels for dovetails in this wood. Now I know!
thanks, I enjoy your videos, and I have a question about just how sharp my chisels have to be for the type of woodworking that I do.. I build displayers for a retail garden store chain, its get em done fast and get them out on the floor.. so i use my chisels to take off the occasional burr and to scrape off glue squeeze out. i dont do it often so Im not good at sharpening them so i bought an MPower sharpening device, which sat in the box for quite some time.. when i finally got it out and used it, flattening the back of my chisel then going at the face of it, I used the 250grit stone and touched the edge and it was sharp.. it seems to be pretty sharp, especially for what i do .. is that sharp enough? do i really have to go through all the grits?
Hi Rob. I’m taking the opportunity of your latest video to ask you a question that you can hopefully have the time to read and respond. I am planing to build a relatively small shelving unit (78 inches high x 25 inches wide) with various doors that I plan to paint white. I am wondering what would be the best wood to use for this project. Would aspen be appropriate in this case or is poplar a better choice? Perhaps you have a better suggestion? Thank you in advance for taking the time to read and respond to my question.
What size cutter (diameter) are you using with your marking gauge? Does it matter? The 17 deg bevel looks good, it would have been nice to compare that cut with a 25 deg bevel to see the difference.
Funny thing about these videos is, if you know 80% of it already that 20% is gold that to people like rob it's not even important but for novices like me I never would have thought of.
EXACTLY ! What I was taught had no rhyme or reason to what you've described, and I messed up "every time" I finally gave up after using dull chisels, a poor marking gauge and a 6:1 ratio. I left, annoyed and frustrated.
Just clamp an accurately square piece of wood on top where the gauge line is and keep the back of the chisel pressed flat to that piece of wood. The Japanese do it a lot. Have a look for Japanese dovetail joinery etc on RU-vid
