Hand Tools. Solid Wood. EPIC Table 

Thank you very much!!

Thanks brotha!

Thanks brother man! A couple tight spots, u can see one of my long rails needed a love squeeze from a strap clamp to seat the joints before drilling for pegs

Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed it!

Thank you!!

Would be very happy to do that, currently taking some time off RU-vid videos but I'll be back to it before too long

@@FranksWorkbench Hell yeah! Hope time off is well, thanks for sharing so much!

Thanks Todd!

Thanks!!

It's almost all I use on it now, I must be doing it wrong 🤣. But to be honest when the block dulls and I switch to #5 the extra mass feels really great and more controlled.

Thank man I appreciate it!

Thank you!

Thanks man and hahaha me too!!

Thanks Jesse!

Thanks!

Right on!

thanks!!

Thanks man, yep I went heavy on the machines for this build

Thank you!

Thanks buddy!

:) thanks man!

:D thanks!

Awesome man thanks! The reason for paring the long rails is because holding it vertical in the vise it would have been too high up in the air to saw. The short apron could have been pared too but it's just not my preference for cherry bc it splits and breaks off kind of "squiggly". Nope there was no spring joint, but that is a good idea especially since I was already using a plane, would have been no big deal to take an extra pass of two from the middle

Thanks Vincent! Yes this worked well because the boards were all machined to the same thickness...when I glue up panels that we're not machined I put the parts on the clamp bars so that one side will be flush and the other side I plane flush/flat after the glue up.

@@FranksWorkbench Thank you for the guidance.

thanks brother! Just decided not to, i didnt think it would add a whole lot for a table M&T. I kinda feel like the main utility of drawboring is for pulling joints closed like in a spring joint breadboard end, timber frame, or to put tension through a joint that will be stressed/racked . nothin against using one here though!

Ive got a vid showing my sharpening technique, it's nothin fancy but it works. Medium India stone, translucent Arkansas stone and a strop

thank you! its just plain old paraffin wax!

I've never tried one! I know they are super popular though and seem to work very well!

Thanks man, not missing anything I just pegged it rather than drawbore

Thanks!! Tried and true varnish oil amzn.to/3g56D2n

yes sir TX and same here, Paul Sellers book Working Wood 1&2 was a game changer

Thank you Damon! -At 3:50 I'm looking to match the grain. Usually two of the leg faces will have flat grain with a cathedral look to the grain, the other two faces will have long lines of grain. (So would want matched grain on the short table side and the opposite on the long side of table, but would not want to for example look at the table from the end (short side) and have one leg with many straight grain lines and the other leg on the same side with the cathedral look) -the mortise is not centered based on both strength and design. Tenons can be longer when closer to the outer face. If closer to the inner face they must be shorter as they will run into one another sooner. I don't go further to the outer face because it looks better (IMO) to have a small offset step between the leg and the apron/rail. - long apron are pared bc if I held it in the vice it would be way up in the air, unable to saw the cheek. - that is liquid hide glue I have in a plastic spice jar. I have a link to some in the video description. I like the glue a lot, makes tight joints very "slippery" and easier to assemble. Also doesn't "seize" when like can happen on casework when the pva glue seizes or grabs and it becomes almost impossible to seat the dovetails and you literally have to either bang the hell out of it with a mallet or clamp it to death to make the dovetails fully seat. oh and it took me a week to make.

@@FranksWorkbench what are you using to heat the glue - I use hide glue (titebond). I have some hide glue granules, but haven't quite found a heating pot.

I'm using a "hold-heet" glue pot but they seem to have either gone out of business or been discontinued. I've heard baby bottle warmers will work and not over cook the glue, too

@@FranksWorkbench thanks - I found one at lee valley that isn't terribly expensive - think I will order that while it is in stock

It was just pegged, but drawboring is definitely great too! Haha yes I sure did, a sweet machine for sure!

yup here in the hot garage of Texas! :D

Varnish oil. 2 coats. Rub completely dry with clean cotton rag about an hour after applying. Surface prep is very important with it- if the surface is hand planed, burnish with shavings or sand with 320 grit. Otherwise any spots where grain changes direction will soak more oil and will end up with that raised grain rough feel to it. Good surface prep and its so nice and smooth after curing, even end grain

I like the original a lot too. But if I could only pick one....

@@FranksWorkbench Thanks! I’ve been using their varnish oil. I’ll stick with it. Has it been durable enough on the table?

I'm not sure but I wouldn't say it's a terribly durable finish, more so a finish that will age well with the inevitable dents, dings and other signs of life that are bound to happen. I have the cherry bookcase finished with the same product and it's done well, but then again it only gets keys and a Kindle dropped on top of it lol. I've been getting a lot of feedback for arm r seal though which I'm told has some of the qualities I like in this yet more durability. Have yet to try it but I will at some point.

I always had to sharpen up immediately after shooting end grain and would rather keep the bigger planes sharp for planing faces and edges without the little "runs" that happen from a micro-chipped blade that happens from planing a lot of end grain. The block plane with those little edge fractures from end grain work still works OK for trimming up protruding bits or chamfering edges. I do miss the mass though and maybe one day will get a better plane for it

@@FranksWorkbench sounds like a good excuse to get a LA jack plane 👍

Thanks! It's paraffin wax, you gotta try it!

@@FranksWorkbench I will. Rob Cosman uses wax. Paul Sellers uses oil rag in a can which I currently use. I'm going to try it. Thanks.

Ah ok, well as long as your using something you know it makes a big difference. I've used the oil rag too. It actually works even better than wax, but I feel like it doesn't stay silky smooth for very long.

@@FranksWorkbench that's exactly how I feel. Like the oil in a can but it doesn't seem to last long.

I think Narex chisels are the best balance of quality and price. Panel saws you can't go wrong with any of the basics like pax, lynx, spear &Jackson etc but they will need to be filed to sharpen and to take down a bit of the set. For backsaws I like Lie-nielsen dovetail saw, veritas is ok, the budget ones all suck except for the crown gents dovetail saw I have linked in the description. I have a blog post that may interest you so check it out if you'd like!

Wow that was extremely generous, thank you!

That black thing is just an aluminum straight edge, I tapered starting 1" below the mortise down to a 1" square at the bottom. Check out my tapered leg video it will show that layout a bit more clearly

It's on the plan for this year, good clean design, simple angles, very strong! It's still a ways off though

🤣🤣. That's actually a great idea. I use most of mine to start fire for my grill, smoker, and chiminea. Shavings make the best firestarter I've ever found.

Haha had em a little while now, really flexed some power tool muscle on this project getting that top milled up!

Thanks!