Handling and cutting sheet goods on sliding tablesaw 

Thanks Doug. You are correct. Steve

Thanks Ron.

Cool! You need to make a video and post it. Steve

Hi David. I was thinking about that. Steve

Great idea I am going to do this when I build my clamping system.

Hi Parafinn. Agreed the general purpose blades leave a lot to be desired. For sheet goods and laminates, my favorite is the Felder Silent Power 250mm 60 tooth blade. For ripping, my go to blades are the 300 or 315mm diameter Felder or Leuco 28 tooth. For fine crosscutting, the 350/356mm diameter Leuco, Tenyru, or Felder 80-100 tooth blades are what I usually pick up. I haven't used them all but I haven't found any stinkers in any of these makes. I now avoid the high angle grind blades as these tend to dull relatively quickly. Steve

Hi Pat. Yes, I used the scoring on every cut. The video shows the start of the main motor followed by the scoring motor. When the scoring motor starts, the blade pops up automatically via an air actuator. The scoring cut is set to 0.1 mm wider and is centered on the main blade kerf. This is a one time adjustment until the scoring blade is sharpened which obviously changes dimensions slightly. Steve

I find that to be generally the case and I usually pull the rip fence back for smaller pieces especially crosscutting hardwoods. In this case, I did not do so as the piece was so large that it could not twist between the blade and the fence causing binding (especially with rip fence toe out).

Hi Chris. The blade I was using was a Felder Silent Power item 03.1.040. It is a 250mm diameter 60 tooth blade. Checking the Felder site, it looks like they have changed and the closest to what I have is this: www.felder-group.com/en-us/shop/hollow-roof-tooth-saw-blades-sc91867/hw-roof-hollow-tooth-saw-blade-silent-power-silver-sp91872 Steve

Hi Carlo. I wouldn't be doing this if the blade guard was not in place and IMO, the action was safe for me with my body parts well protected. I have found for long reference surfaces, the toe out on the rip fence can be problematic and result in slightly tapered workpieces when using the fence as a stop. That is why I made those cuts in that manner. Later in the video, I did pull the fence back as a stop for the narrower shelf pieces. Steve

@@extremewoodworker Suggestion: retract the rip fence extrusion when using it as a bump stop such that it doesn’t overlap with the saw blade. That way the off-cut it is not trapped between the blade and fence, eliminating the possibility of a nasty kickback or the need to reach-around to push the off-cut through.

I’ve been curious about the best practice for this for years. I’ve spent many hours making cabinets with a slider, and for me the most accurate way to rip the sheet- when I’m cutting cabinet sides for example, is to use the rip fence exactly like I would a standard tablesaw (such as a sawstop). I just have the added benefit of letting the sheet ride along with the wagon of the slider. I don’t use the rip fence and crosscut fence at the same time, it’s one or the other. If I have more material on the right side of the blade then on the wagon I will support it with an indeed roller. I pull the fence back behind the blade only to crosscuts the parts, after they are all ripped to width. Relying on the crosscut fence/slider to make accurate rips seems impossible. And if you’ve ever had to break down plywood on a cabinet saw it really doesn’t feel that foreign or dangerous.

@@David_Best This is how it should be done! I learned this right away with mine, I ended up with corn in my shorts

Yes - two points of contact are the only option on my cross cut fence. Steve

@@extremewoodworker interesting, okay. Thank You Steve. I’m just now setting up my new Felder K 700 S. Hopefully take it for test run this weekend. Appreciate all the videos you’ve made, helps a ton.

Hi Matthew. Both the tables and the parallel fence are Martin. If SCM doesn't offer options, you may want to check out Lamb Tool Works: lambtoolworks.com/parallel-fences Steve

I'm curious what people use for supports on sliding table saws if the supports aren't readily available for a person's slider.

Hi MGF. I have taken a few measurements on my saw. There are several protusions that extend beyond the edge of the table on the right (the fence guide and the overhead arm). The limiting item is the fence guide which extends 10" beyond the edge of the table. This will only give partial door opening for access to the saw cabinet for speed changes but, it is sufficient for adequate access. To get full door opening, I suggest an additional 4" be added. These measurements were taken on a 2007 model T60C so verify with Martin that these still apply. Hope this helps. Steve

These were purchased from Martin USA. Steve

Hi Marc, I just look at the digital display for fence position while turning the handwheel. The digital display resolution is 0.1 mm.

A definite truism that is worse than a paper cut. When the driver delivered the material, I was noticing red smears on the melamine. Even though he had a pair of gloves in the truck, they were not worn because he couldn't get a grip on the material. I gave him a pair of coated gloves. Steve

Beautiful saw love those Martin's unfortunley i dont have one of those, I Noticed you added another guide when yopu are cutting narrow long pcs parallel what was that ? this is where i have issue's

@@extremewoodworker Steve, you and the driver need to get a couple of Grabbo’s. Look up Grabbo on Izzy Swan’s channel… Ron

@@ronh9384 Hi Ron. I learn something everyday. I haven't heard of the Grabbo. Now if they only made an anti-gravity version - lol. Steve