I am planning to mod my Hangkai to improve it's life time, performance, and make it a quiet motor.. One thing i noticed that you MUST do every time you have been out on the water. Every time you come back from sail trip check the gear oil. If it looks white means you got oil mixed with water.. Clean the gear, and put new oil in it.. Another thing why this thing chokes is because it have open air filter.. sometimes it will choke in air sometimes in fuel.. It does not mean much, but installing a big air filter will make this engine 80% quieter and it will make it perform better.. Salt water can be thick and it can have a problem with exhausting and water cooling.. make sure your exhaust hole is clean, and make sure your impeller turns around.. This will solve our problem 100% and for ever! For every new buyer.. First thing you do after unboxing this engine; you open the gear box and check if there is oil in it.. if there is, replace with high quality SAE-90 gear oil. Then you start your engine in a barrel full of cold water and run it for at least an hour on idle, no propeller spin at all.. One hour is the minimum.. Then you take your engine on the lake, river, sea whatever, and you run for 5-6 hours at low trolling speeds.. Make sure you have something or someone to entertain you. Next day run the engine at various speeds for 6 hours.. Sometimes full speed but most of the time half power.. Just play with the engine for 6 hours.. Your break'in process is finished. Congratulations. You have yourself an engine for life!
There are a couple different types of these motors, if they have a water impeller, yes they need the water and idle mode may not run the water and yeah the motor could overheat. But i do believe when you take care and properly break these motors in and properly maintain them and store them with no fuel, i believe they will last a long time.
on a small motor you realy need to set the carb for the air you are in ,ie it's from a different country so mix is wrong ,plus running in as motor when new is tight ,and you have it on the max size boat for it so full throttle right away will be a struggle (load is high )
Mine did the same during the initial 2-3 hours of running. I didn’t break in the motor. The hiccup is caused by an air bubble in your fuel line. It will do that from time to time as the fuel lines that came equipped are garbage. Change the fuel lines and run the motor for at least 10 h in 1 hr increments and your motor will run like a ninja.
We have one of these motors, had the same issue with over heating. I solved it by putting the trim all the way up. If it tilts more than a certain point it stops pumping water. Mine would run in the tank and then crap out on the water when I took my boot out. I have a 9ft baltic inflatable. Good luck to anyone that decides to try one out. Be sure to change out the fuel lines with some 1/8 inch lines from your local auto store. Change out the water line connected to the head also, the have probably rotted from heat, check you impeller and change the oil also. Adjust your air fuel ratio, turn it out until you get it to really open up, while at full throttle. I garaged mine for 5 years and then figured it out after having all the same problems with my 1980 clinton 7.5HP
Hi There, I have a question for you. Is the motor too heavy for the back of your inflatable boat? Will the front of your boat tilt up when the engine is running? I am thinking to get one of this motor 3.5HP for my mariner 3, but I am not sure if it will be too heavy for my boat. And sorry I don't have solutions to suggest for your motor. Thanks !
It sounds like ignition cut out. Try replacing the plug with something like an NGK. Never use Champs or Autolites in these. Not sure why but they never worked on 2 stroke motors for me. NGK were the only plugs that worked.
The only issue is that every now and then your inflatable boat gives and pushes back rebounding giving the engine a little less load for a second and then reloading it
Hello, Great video! I getting this same engine on the same boat. I have few questions. What kind of oil do you use? Can this motor push the boat for trolling with 4 adult in the boat?
The gas cap on mine need to breath a little better so I took it apart and cut the rubber a bit and now no suction on the gas cap and I open it. That means breathing properly now. And you have to break these motors in exactly right just like the gentleman that gave the information on how to do it that’s exactly how you’re supposed to do it.
Sounds like the fuel mixture is too lean, had a Gamefisher outboard, similar engine, and it was set for some kind of emmissions compliance, I removed the little plug and screwed the mixture screw out half a turn, improved starting, mid and wide-open throttle performance greatly. Good luck
I'd initially eliminate sparks and wiring being the issue because the jolt is too intermittent. Incorrect fuel would also probably cause a more frequent issue or series of jolts and seeming though so many people have this issue with this brand motor, I'm saying its not the fuel. So your left with shortage of Air supply and/or Fuel line. That sounds like its chewing fuel more than it can supply itself so it chokes to catch up, this is why it only happens near full throttle. I would install bigger internal fuel lines/filter to the carb.
You hit the high throttle at once and i see your problem.. Lack of patience.. Every new engine you have to work up slowly, like any new engine on a brand new scooter.. You need to push a new engine slow, and that will smooth out the working of your engine,lubricate it and smooth the sides of your cylinder, rings and the housing. I had the same choking effect on my first run, and even more then you had.. the second time i run my engine it choked only one time.. Now it never ever chokes and it got more HP power, and the engine is much faster then the first time ot first two times i tried it, and makes only half of the noise compare to my first run.... First start of your engine; run it for an hour in a bucket of water, idle throttle not giving it any gas at all, so it runs slow at all time. It may go out a couple of times before catching the fuel to run fully operational.. Then run it on slow RPM on the big water for like 10-15 hours.. When you buy any new engine, and run for the first time for it's first 15 hours of life, run slowly adding throttle before you open the full throttle.. If you don't do it you risk destroying the engine completely, and don't matter what brand engine you buy.. You can buy Yamaha, Tohatsu, Evinrude.. if they are brand new and you don't work them properly up, you will crush the engine and there is a whole 20% chance of that happening if you do it wrong. If you don't work the engine properly it will break very fast even when you smoot it because some parts will simply change shape not to fit. So have that 15 hour patience. Same to a new car.. You want it to last longer make it work out for it self in the beginning without pushing it too far.. Good video, thanks for sharing, i hope my tips will help you and the future generations. And if you broke your engine already, then i hope my tips will help working out the new one you will buy.. NEVER give up! NEVER get bored :D have fun friend cheers for your video..
Jack Fisher well said and thanks for sharing the info, I came upon the same problem and now I know what to do. Just had my Hangkai serviced on my own and wil have it on the water soon, I forgotten how long I had run this outboard but I guessed I will redo the whole procedure you share above and hopefully the issue will be gone forever. By the way, what is your opinion about the quality of the gear oil? I see people using top graded marine gear oil which will cause a hole in my pocket, I am using some cheap brand motorcycle gear oil, is it alright?
+Fishing Adventures of NorthernHardcoreFisherman | FishingAdvNHF I just change the gear oil to whatever.. motorcycles, motorbikes.. I don't care about the most expensive stuff.. My engine was lying 1 year in a place where the air is very wet, and i see some aluminium corrosion .. but i doub this will affect the engine itself.. ATM I spend allot of money on my son's hobby's not on my own so the boating and fishing got pushed to the side.. but i better start taking care of my engine more .. It is my own fault.. Lubricate the engine and don't be stupid like I was and if you store your engine open the box every 3 months and clean it's surface with WD40 or whatever you have to stop it from cording.. If you don't use it at the sea like I did you may be even more lucky, and the engine will work for ever.. I started my engine yesterday and it work fine.. It started after the second time i pulled, that is a good sign, but forget about beauty of my engine because it need to be repainted ;P My own fault!
New two-stroke engines are very lean set from factory.Try check your sparkplug airintake and highspeedscrew.Sounds like the engine runs to lean.Correct fuelmix is 50:1.Or try clean your carburator.Are you sure your fuel is clean?But its not a "qualityengine" either.
I just got my hangkai today. I got it to fire up after a few thugs. it ran good! i stopped it just to see if it fire up with one pull. one thug and the pull start didn't retract it self.i got strangle my self in the middle of the lake with 30mph wind. work my ass off to paddle my boat to shorr
Just bought one. I had the same problem. The gas vapor locks in the tank like any outboard with an internal tank. Vent the gas cap. I bet you'll hear pressure being released. Helped with mine. Just crack the gas cap open when engine is running. Hope that helps.
I have same motor and it cuts out on me after a few minutes of use... don't see water coming out the back hole, so I wonder if the impeller is broken?? The motor gets really hot and needs to cool down before I can successfully start it up again... Ideas???
Check the intake hole where water comes in thru the bottom and see if anything is clogging it. Water should be shooting out of the black rectangular box below the motor on the shaft. Remove that and ensure nothing is clogging that too. Also inside the engine housing is the water jacket with copper pipe. You can tell easily where it's at since only 1 thing is copper colored. If you feel comfortable with small engines, tear it apart and inspect it for and blockages.
+ Ryan Young - Old subject but a word of advise, anyway might serve others. When an engine stops due to overheating it's seizing in place so please NEVER attempt to run it before fixing the problem. Depending on the severity of the seizing it can lightly scratch piston/cylinder, etc or simply blown it to pieces. Either case years of engine life can be reduced to minutes... Be well.
That momentary misfire is a result of heat saturation causes by the gasoline in the pulse diaphragm carburetor going from a liquid state to a vapor in quick increments . If the ambient temperature is high like, a particularly hot summer day, the heat generated by the motor combined with ambient temperature allows the gas in the tiny reservoir of the carburetor to vaporize for a split second causing a sputter, you will notice that it won't happen in the fall or when temps are lower.... This is a flaw in this design, I had the first generation of this outboard motor, that had a 100% sealed top cover with no air openings the motor would run for about 3mins from cold and die, once the carburetor cooled and the gas returned to a liquid it ran again for another 3 to 4 mins... Eventually I removed the cover altogether! and built a bracket to hold the fuel tank, and a deflector plate to guide the flywheel air to the fins on the water/air cooled head of the engine. Once the carberator was was in the open it never heat soaked again and this stopped the problem permanently, even in the hottest ambient weather. The motor ran for years flawlessly I did have to change the centrifugal clutch each season, as they wear over time, but they are pretty cheap and easy to change. This is why most garden equipment small motors have a well ventilated cover over the carburetor or a completely exposed carb to the outside of the engine. Vapor locking is a typical problem with engine heat soak. using a higher octane gas will help a bit too.
Dude, you are a genius. Someone said the choke was on. A flaw in the design which has it showing off . Yet your explanation is scientifically postulated, diagnosed and solved.
a lot of you guys know of outboard motors ... can someone help .. I just bought the same engine but when I turn it on in a bucket of water just to try it out I notice that the engine Turns of after 15 minutes .. it's practically new, what would be the issue ?
+Jesse Gonzalez - Old comment but here it goes. ;-) These engines don't circulate water properly when in idle so in that condition they tend to overheat. check when throttle is applied and rev's go up if the water circulate. Avoid idling the engine too long. ;-)
The problem is you have probabely not takin the propeller off and put grease inside of it. The pistons are overheating and if u continue to use it without grease the motor will overheat and go boom
I know this video is old but for anyone who has this engine and is trying to figure out why it’s doing that, rip the plastic cover off and run it without the cover hasn’t done it to me since. Im assuming because it’s half water cooled half air cooled it’s not getting enough air cooling, I just have mine without the cover runs perfectly
I bought a 3.5 and the first time I started it I pulled so many times the rewind broke the second rewind got it started but after about 3o seconds it acted like it run out of gas and after many pulls and another broken rewind it still hasn't started. It did kick back about 20 times. now I have to wait about 40 days to get another rewind. and I have to pay for it. Need I state what I think of this product. nice toy for man cave. but expensive just to hang on the wall
i bought one for my canoe. I got it on Ebay for $250. Free Shipping. I've heard good, I've heard bad. I think if you know a little about motors, you're better off. Mine came in two pieces. No real instructions. I read the best reviews and looked at all the youtube clips. Why? Because I can't afford $1200 for a 3hp Mercury.
@@unipalooza. you are way better off with that 1966 Evinrude than one of these junk Motors brand new. As long as the Evinrude has been maintained even a little bit it should have many more Decades of use left in it. It should also be much, much, much quieter. I picked one of those 6 horsepower Evinrude Zep for free with another motor I bought from a fellow. I think it may have been a 1966 or 67 model. It hasn't been used in so long the lubrication on the throttle and Spark advance had turned into glue. After removing cleaning and regreasing all of those parts it operated just fine and started on the very first poll. It was such a smooth and quiet motor you could hardly tell it was running at idle. I didn't keep the motor as I had no use for it but I have other Motors from that era made by Evinrude Johnson and Gale. They are very simple and well-engineered Motors and easy to work on them even for someone who is not a mechanic. Just make sure after using it to disconnect the fuel line and let the engine run at fast idle until the carburetor runs out of fuel. Due to ethanol in the gasoline these days you would be well-advised to mix some fuel with some stabilizer and run it through the engine and then disconnect the fuel line and let the engine run until it stalls. That motor I believe uses a 24 to 1 gasoline and oil mix. Later on they went to Roller bearings so you could get away with a 50 to 1 mix. You want to make sure you're giving it enough oil
HI I have the same setup excursion with hankai 3.5 but when I accelerate full my hangkai looks like its gonna go underwater. it goes down too much. did you have this problem too?
Yes I had the same problem. I had to ditch the mount that came with it because it didn't offer enough stability and used a previous mount I had from a setup I had in the past and then had to custom make a couple long poled from that previous setup.
+Covio Acere The motor has more thrust. The boat has soft construction even you use the motor mount on the back it will push the body of the boat.(soft) If the motor push at full throttle it shorten the body of the boat and it tend to dive under the water. This is normal for this kind of inflatable boat. You can use motor guide instead. It will not go fast but it will not dive.(at max torque)
Hi recently bought the Hangkai 3.5 - took it out for the first time today and everything seems fine, but I can't get the propeller to engage. We were floating in the water but the twist grip throttle just didn't seem to get the propeller going - any advice? I'm not an especially mechanical guy, this is my first outboard motor too...
You shouldn't buy this brand cause it's not rust proof and cheap material my friend's motor is full of rust in the drive shaft it could not move the props
It's probably because your friend has no clue on how to maintain an outboard motor that is open to the open air like this one. There are LOTS of people with this motor who has been running it for years. It's not a new motor and has been around for a little bit. If you maintain it by cleaning off any salts and other junk, it should last you a good long while. I just got mine, tore it down, did a full inspection, changed the gear oil and after less than 10 pull starts, it was up and going. Working great so far!
had one of these and i kno what ur referring too its the fact that the carb isnt set correctly from the factory its not geting what it should at higher rpms i dont kno what the tool to fix it is but im perty sure it dosnt use conventional tools
It is not an ignition problem, its not the spark plug, coil , or CDI module....It's a condition called vapour locking, these engines are air and water cooled... On idle, the engine relies on air cooling only, but once throttled up the centrifugal clutch activates and it turns the propeller and waterpump simultaneously. The problem is that the flywheel fan continues to throw hot air all around during normal running, it has no built in shroud, to allow the air exclusively over the cooling fins then out into the atmosphere vents and the disorganized air flow, heat soaks the pulse diaphragm carburetor, causing the gasoline to turn from a liquid to a gas (like propane), the carberator which also has a built in fuel pump cannot pump the fuel in vapour form, and the engine begins to starve for fuel, hence why your enriched high speed adjustment bought you a little more time. I had this same exact outboard engine, it's a stupid design, but I got mine to work by removing the covers altogether, and building a bracket to hold my fuel tank, ect. It never vapour locked again, and ran without flaws for many years.... the only draw back is the centrifugal clutch does not last long, is wears out every season and is miserable to change, but are cheap and readily available on ebay
Every time you unboxing a new engine or new vehicle , what you need to do was let the engine run in idle speed for 6 ~ 10 hours , then don't use 2T oil , replaced it with NASA oil and change Another brand spark plug NGK are recommended , don't care how bad their manufacturer product , I'm sure there always have a better solution to make it not over heating , piston ring or liner problem . I heard people say chock sticker are upside down ? Maybe you not release engine chock , then engine carburetor will supply to much fuel caused engine over heating and spark plug wet . I planning to buy one soon 😊
Sounds like a skip maybe the motor has a rev limiter im a small engine tech and string trimmers sound like that at peek rpm the skip keeps the motor from over revving
Assuming that the motor is broken in, I would guess that you're running a prop with too much pitch for your boat. It's also possible that it's going lean at the top end. Either condition will wipe out any outboard. My only experience with really small outboards was the air-cooled "Cruise-N-Carry" that came with my 14-foor sailboat, and I couldn't get rid of that piece of crap soon enough. I hope your experience with the Hangkai will be better. Regarding prop selection, I also have a 40-horse Mk 55 Merc from 1956, that I have on my homebuilt runabout. We spent a lot of time switching props until we found one that would allow us to reach proper RPM.
ALL OF YOU HANGKAI GUYS-----You need to make the plastic tubes fit better onto the carburetor----they eventually leak air bubbles. You must take a strip of paper towel 1/4" x1/3" (approx.) and smear JB Weld onto both sides to build up the thickness on both metal tubes on the carburetor. A couple of wraps are needed to give you a SNUG FIT--- doing this requires a couple of minutes and a "surgical approach".....You need to do this on a bench and allow a day for the JB Weld to cure..........Marty the Designer
There is nothing wrong with your engine. Engine probably seating to high from the water causing air pockets at high speed (cavitation). Lower the engine if you can. I wouldn't play around with the oil gas mixture. You'll burn your motor. I'd leave it alone. For the price, you got what you paid for so enjoy it.
The problem with these motors is buying one in the first place, much better to spend your money on a lightly used brand name motor. It sounds like the motor is perhaps "nipping" up from time to time as in a partial seizure or the spark plug/ignition is acting up causing it to misfire . I still don't understand how these motors can be sold in the USA where they don't meet current emissions standards for new outboard motors.
the fuel lines is binding due to the springs that they have them , take the spring off don't need them .can change the cheap gas out can fine some good at lawn now shop it the as weed Wacker
@@blakelira7098 so you love those Motors but you sold your previous one after only having it for a year? Your comment makes absolutely no sense. I'm thinking you got rid of it before it had a catastrophic failure and you had to throw it in the garbage. Nobody sells an outboard motor they love after only having it for a year.
A mate of mine cruised the Caribbean. His dinghy motor which was a decent Tohatsu kept breaking down. It was always the spark plugs going open circuit (they have a built-in resistor to suppress radio interference) The plugs which were probably fakes would only work for a few hours, four minimum, eight maximum. Fakes that don't work like the real thing are a huge problem and they tend to get off-loaded in places that don't have enough manpower in the Customs Department. (If the customs are busy looking for Coke the duff spark plugs will probably get through!) Saudi Arabia is exceedingly vigilant over fakes and entire container-loads are regularly confiscated. Unfortunately its just too far to go all that way to avoid fakes!
