@@Picklezaregood Thanks! I’m actually gonna be making an announcement regarding that 10K thing.. been thinking of giving away one of my earlier Razor builds. Or do you have any suggestions?
I did a similar thing. I own this same outboard except I used my surron battery. Its 67.2 volts full and runs this hangkai outboard motor perfect for over 4 hours. No over heating. I use it in salt water only for the dinghy on the back of my sailboat. (I just rinse after every use) Had it for 4 years now and still works great. Only had to replace prop shaf seal after first year, then I used 90wt oil. Little noise for electric but I love it
My first thought was that a motor that cheap from a Chinese producer is going to corrode rapidly in salt water...interesting to know you've had good results. I guess thorough flushing every time is critical - and long-term storage somewhere as dry as possible.
Did you remember to put gear oil in the lower unit ? All the hankai motors I have bought in the past have came with no gear oil for transport ?. Even though it's electric it still has a geared lower end unlike the little trolling motors you used at the start of the video. Hope this helps.
Picked up the 43.3 inch long shaft version, to try instead of using underpowered trolling motor for getting sailboat in and out of slip with more control. For some reason long shaft version was even cheaper. Taken it out 6 times and so far, blown away with performance. With your background in 48v bikes, you should def follow up with a tear down video. I feel like there would be a lot of interest, “you get what you pay for “ and “if it seems too good to true” will start catching up to owners of these. But replacement parts on the internet also look to be really affordable. But thanks for this one. It nudged me into taking the original plunge
At 6 mph you are pushing hull speed for a 12 foot boat. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hull_speed Slow down a 1/2 mph and you will probably cut the current draw in half! The only way you will go significantly faster is if you get a motor that is big enough to get your boat to plane. With two of you in the boat this would probably require quit a bit more power -- probably an 8 hp (gas) motor.
The "A" setting is supposed to be the regen setting to use on sailboats to recharge the battery. It's hard to know if it's active on this specific model. But you can test it by measuring the terminals that go to the battery while towing the boat in the water.
Sounds like you need to add oil to the lower gear case - from what I have seen they do not ship them with oil in the lower gearbox - it sounds very noisy
Thanks; one thing you didnt get to was if it is really 5 HP - so an actual comparision to a fuel 5 HP would be pretty useful for people deciding on the pros and cons of going electric vs gasoline or diesel in a small boating craft. Obviously range and speed are both of big importantce - and cost.
@@litestuffllc7249 it’s not, I mentioned 1200 watts is less than 2 HP (more like 1.6-1.7.) But it is very efficient considering the power rating and price range. It’s all really about what the main use case would be. I have a cheaper 2-stroke that’s faster m, but way too loud for fishing (which is my main use)
If I had to guess, this is just ebike stuff shoved into an outboard format. Would probably sell direct from China for like $100 or so. Really smart actually. Repurposing already highly available and cheap parts to make something new and useful.
It looked great and pushed that big heavy boat at such a fast speed. For normal use you'd only want to go at about half that speed (2mph) at the most so the battery would last much longer. I suspect that the other position on the ignition switch is for accessories.
Due to the higher efficiency and flat torque curve of an electric outboard the standard calculations do not apply. Toorqedo has a detailed explanation on their website. They assume, that a 2000W electric has the same pushing power as a 5hp gas outboard. So this 1200W would be comparable to a 3-3,5hp gas outboard. Fits with the numbers in the video....
I was thinking in my head that a electric motor could handle a steeper pitched prop because of the torque. It would be a fair bit stronger than the equilivant petrol motor in hp or kw mesurment. Rctestflight recently did a rc boat propeller efficiency test. It shows you can gain heaps from just changing the propeller on a boat.
Nice video, look into the lithium iron phosphate batteries. I have a 48 volt cake battery 20ah 2000 watt on my DIY scooter and get 100 miles on the throttle per charge. great power and range with these new batteries.
I wouldn't worry about horse power... I'd worry about whether it works well enough, for how much it costs, and how long it lasts (as well as how easy it is to get replacement parts/repair). If it works well, is somewhat durable, and you can order parts online, then it could be an option to consider, for some situations. I'm guessing a cheap used gas outboard might be a better long term value (parts availability, longevity, etc). Of course, some places are electric only.
You're lucky you didn't hit that log when in reverse. That's the good thing about small motors not having reverse... one just swings the motor 180° to reverse it. Also, the motor doesn't have a 'kill lanyard', most neccessary on a small hand-operated boat. You should always hold on to the steering arm with the lanyard connected to your wrist. You would be amazed at how quickly the boat could capsize if you let go of the arm even for a second or two. Things in the boat (including occupants) will immediately shift and change the center of gravity. If you do capsize the motor may still be running (no lanyard) although the battery will be now hanging down in the water because you didn't secure it on the seat with a strap or such. And be wary of where you go... the prop may get entangled with weeds (low power) and old fishing line. Is the motor supplied with a spare prop in case the one installed breaks or falls off? Happy boating. And don't forget your life jackets.
At 7 minutes 13 you say you wish the stem was a little tighter, your hand is about 6 inches from the friction knob, on the stem. Careful if it's anything like the little merc if you leave it loose it will vibrate and fall out.
Hi pat!!! Just wanted to clarify: you got approx 3 miles on the 51v 16AH battery? I'm having a hard time finding a battery on my budget. Thanks in advance
I saw another video of one of these hangkai gas motors and buddy read in the instructions to fill the gears with oil behind the prop it was totally dry. not sure if yours is the same but worth a look if you haven't
I"m looking at the batteries for this thing. The motor may be cheap, but the batteries are very high priced. Not sure if it's worth the money to have this set up.
G’day mate, any motor will under-perform with the massive drag from a flat bottom punt. Try someone’s V-nose v-bottom tinnie of the same size. It’ll GO.
It seems pretty loud for an electric motor. But not as much performance as I would have guessed over the 12v troller... I would be curious to see what a 48v trolling motor like the bass boat guys use.
Cool informative video my friends. Looks like good clean fun. But as Americans we should not be buying so much chinesium! I am surprised how loud it is.
It maybe 5hp equivalent, They do say eletric drives are 2-2.5x a diesel or gas power equivalent So 2.5x1.6 could be considered like a 4hp gas "potentially" power wise. I dont know how much i really believed that though, just somthing iv read
Thanks. It certainly performs well. No kill switch? ….yikes. What about the temperature sensor cable to the battery? I suspect there is a lot of plain / painted steel, perhaps not useful for use on the sea, or not being stored dry. One aspect of an electric over gas is that they make high torque at low revs, so the power output is not so much linked to revs. This means if you could fit a big high thrust propeller for better low speed performance with a bigger / heavier boat
Definitely a slimmed down outboard with little safety features, hence the price point. A kill switch would have been nice. No temp sensor, though the battery I’m using now (not on this video) has a smart BMS (battery management system) that cuts off power if the temps or amp draw fall outside the safe range for the battery.
@@HUJUism hmm I actually ran this for a short period with a 72V lithium pack and was able to reach 8 MPH but the controller overheated. I’m looking at controller upgrade and better cooling solutions
I got the same motor for my 18 ft Lund. The shaft is to short for my transom, (most of the prop is above the bottom of the hull), but it still got the boat up to 4 MPH with 48v 100ah LiFePO battery. Got the long shaft version coming to replace the short shaft to see if it does any better. The prop is made of Nylon but you can get Aluminum replacement, same prop but says it's for 3.5 hp electric. How do you put oil in the gear box? Mine has the bump on the housing, but it was never drilled out to drain or fill the gear case.
Seems louder and less powerful than a 2.5-5 4 stroke. I'm guessing some of that is the mic, but I've also been on plenty of gas boats where you kinda forget the motor is even running because they're so quiet. Maybe some lube in the gear case will improve that, but so far this seems like a heavier, louder, and more expensive option to low power outboards.
@@hxhdfjifzirstc894 when I worked at a Ford dealership we had to replace the intakes and exhaust on Cobra mustangs because they didn't achieve the advertised HP cost Ford a ton of money. So I'm guessing advertised HP matters.
I'll have to compare those to my expensive Torqeedo travel 1003. I've never heard of a place that would rent just a motor. I've flown my inflatable boat for free on Southwest airlines as luggage with the full sail rig. A trolling motor would have really helped, but I didn't think they could be rented anywhere. It's usually boats rented, and not motors only. No battery box on the rental?
@@PatOutdoors Won't work on my inflatable. There are no sides. When I used my trolling motor it was strapped at the back of the boat on the wooden motor mount. I use a Torqeedo Travel 1003s now, but I can't take that on an airplane.
I have a pair of the 2200W version (marketed as "8HP" 🙄👌) pushing my 21' pontoon. Can't get up faster than about 5mph but I have a suspicion a lot of that is the shallow-angle props that come with these. I wonder if you have thoughts about how to find more aggressively tuned propellers for these?
Well pontoons naturally have more drag, but I think they mislabel these electric motors. Because 2200 watts is more like 3 HP.. also do you know what amp rating the controllers are on yours? Just gotta make sure your battery is enough to supply enough amps to both motors
Given the size of the boat and the speed and the stern vawe, this seems to equal more than 2 hp, but less than 5. Maybe 3,5? (I know my math teacher wouldn`t agree, but anyway)
Who cares if it's actually 5HP, it got your boat going 6 mph all the way across a big lake. One suggestion - either slow down to 5 mph (50 percent more range?), or bring along an extra "get home" battery about half the size of the one in your vid. Then you could gun it until batt 1 dies, then use batt 2 to limp home at 4 or 5 mph. I'd build a battery box to keep water off that stuff, too.
I don't care honestly. It's just mislabeled is all, overall I'm pretty happy with the performance. Also I just got a 100AH LiP04 Deep Cycle battery for this thing and the range is now insane.. About to post an update actually.
how many amp hours is that battery rated for at the beginning? The only reason I could see the battery lasting only an hour, is that they don't actually recharge them. I use batteries in the range of 90 amp hours to 120 amp hours.. and I could go over 8 hours sith the 90 on a 28lbs thrust motor.... and now I typically get 10 hours of continuous use with my 55lbs thrust minn kota on my 14ft jon boat. There's no way that park is taking vare of those batteries... and they probably pnly throw them on the charger for 20 minutes. So bad!
Uh... 1200 watts / 746 = 1.6 HP. Still, you can do a lot with that amount of power, when you are not bucking a lot of wind or current, and also 1.6 HP worth of electric motor is actually more versatile and flexible than the same horsepower in an internal combustion engine. The power curve is flatter and wider, mainly. You have much more low end torque. And there is an almost bottomless minimum idle speed. No warmup is needed. The role of reduction gearsis not as important. You simply have to have the correct RPM range and prop diameter, blade count, and pitch, to make the prop turn efficiently at the chosen power consumption level, without cavitation. But no matter how you slice it and dice it, or massage the data, this can never give anything close to a sustained 5hp power output to the prop shaft. Ain't gonna happen. The good news is you might not need 5HP. Ratings of electric motors, especially Chinese made traction motors, are misleading, too. A motor might be rated for x watts at y duration. For instance, 5kw for 120 seconds, but if you try to run that same motor at 5kw for 5 or 10 minutes it might either overheat trip to save the motor, or simply have a big-ass meltdown. Cotrollers are rated similarly, especially Chinese made. You are more interested in SUSTAINED power. You don't want to motor your boat for a minute or two minutes and then stop to let it cool for 30 minutes. You want to go from point A to point B nonstop. So always take the ratings of Chinese made motors with a grain of salt. Remember, these ratings were assigned by the sane company making and selling them. Chinese manufacturers are also notorious for using wire that is too small, resulting in lots of line losses as the resistance of the wire causes the high current required by low voltage DC operation, to be converted to heat, reducing available power. Even the wire in the motor makes a difference, and too-small wire wll cause problems. Motor power ratings are rated by input power, naturally. If you have a kw of power going in but are losing 75w through heating of the coils, and more from cheap bearings or poor alighment or in this case a poorly optimized prop, the net effect might be much less than the HP figure found by dividing electrical input watts by 746. Plain and simple. You get what you pay for. You are paying for shoddy materials, "good enough" quality control, and unskilled, underpaid, undereducated, labor. The basic engineering can be sound and the final product still be a POS. If a POS is acceptable and the price of a Torqueedo is not, then the Chinese OB is the obvious choice. But make sure you are able to sail or paddle home. Don't forget your battery makes a difference in your range, as well as your power setting. For about $1200 you could get a 5kw Motenergy BLDC/PMAC motor and a Chinese Kelly controller, and make a fairly nice electric outboard based on the carcass of a dead gasoline outboard in the 6hp to 9.9hp range. Add eight 6v GC-2 size golf cart batteries in series with the requisite cabling, fusies, and meters, and you have a pretty nice propulsion setup that will push a small boat quite nicely.
i have seen these exact same casings used in 5hp gasoline motors from the same company. i bet the y used the same base for the motor but slapped an electric motor on it and didn't bother to remove the stickers. thats how most of chinese stuff is made anyway😅 interesting video.
@@markyygamer2073 me (180), my wife (170), fishing gear (10), motor (15), lithium battery (5), cooler full of beers (20), 14 foot Jon boat (150).. so probably about 550 lbs altogether
Hmm just checked the ignition cylinder and there’s nothing on the back side for a second post. Someone else commented that it’s supposed to just keep your key from falling out
It's not 5HP because it's only 1200W. That's 1.63HP Your title is misleading. You test the against the speed equivalent of a gasoline 5HP engine. Thanks for the test though
Im sure it is much better than than the other electric motor just because its brushless... but 5hp equivalent at 6 miles an hour haha i think not, most gas 5HP will easily double that.
No, its not 5 HP. 1 HP requires about 745 watts of energy, discount losses and so on at best you have 2 HP. Having said that: because a electric motor has continuos torque, it accelerates like a 5 HP gas engine... but it will never reach the 5 HP top speed.
Batteries sold in the United States for things like e-bikes and boats and rvs and home energy storage are ridiculously overpriced. The solar power guys are starting to build their own with lifepo cells and case kits from China. Doing that you can get like $100 per kWh. A 3 kWh battery would run something like this for hours. (That ebike battery is more like 750Wh.)
What? This battery was super tiny.. maybe 4L equivalent. But I got a 100AH battery for later testing. That would be closer to the size you are describing
Prop horsepower is defined by torque times RPM. The formula for HP is simply (Torque x RPM)/5252. If you have an engine that's rated for 5 horsepower but its torque drops off dramatically as the RPM increases it delivers less than 5 horsepower. Is there anything in the paperwork that would tell you the electric motor's torque and RPM?
Cannot get there from here. There is no formula that will convert Horsepower to Thrust. The best they can do is a comparison that an outboard of X number of watts will feel like an outboard of Y horsepower.
