Michael, I have great news: The tracking feature that you want is already on the camera, you just have to know how to use it. 1) Make sure your Focus Mode is CONTINUOUS; 2) Set the AF Mode to WIDE/TRACKING; 3) Set Eye/Auto to ON. Once these are set you will see a small green box appear. Unlike with Zone and Single Point modes this box cannot be changed in dimensions; you just get the one fairly small size. But that's ok, you want it tight because you're going to place it over the face that you want to track, then activate autofocus. You can activate autofocus with the AF On button or using a half press of the shutter release, depending on which you have set for focusing your camera. Once you made the press to focus the system will lock onto the eyes within the box. It will only look for eyes within the small green box, even if there are multiple faces in the scene outside of that box. That's why the small box is a blessing in disguise. You MUST keep the button pressed (if you focus with the AF ON) or half pressed (if you're using the shutter release to focus). If you do that the system stays on that person like a bulldog with its teeth sunk into them! They can even turn away so that you don't see their eyes anymore, and it will stay on their head. You can also recompose so that someone else is in the middle of the scene and it will stay on the person that you're locked in on. There are only two ways that it will let go: if you let up on the button, or if they completely leave the scene. Try it, you'll love it. This is much better than using Zone or Single point with EYE AF on when you are in a crowd. With those two modes having EYE AF on will cause the eye control to take over, and if there are several faces in the scene the system will jump all over from one set of eyes to another. Having WIDE/TRACKING switched on eliminates that problem and puts you in control of which eyes are selected. Practice this with two people standing next to each other (or two mannequins if you have them) until you get the hang of it. I hope that this helps. Let me know if you have issues or any questions about this. Thanks for posting another great video!
Hi! Many thanks for sharing this suggestion. I'll give it a try. Like most folks, I think I go with what I know, which works 90+ percent of the time, and then just get frustrated when the thing I don't know doesn't work the other 10% of the time ;) Cheers!
Thanks Michael. I decided to trade my Canon R6 II for a X-H2S. I do have an X-T5 and love having lighter lens then full frame. I also have a Canon R7 as my bird camera. My RF 100-400mm and RF 600mm f/11 are very light and low cost and there isn’t anything similar for X mount. My favorite X mount lens is my Sigma 18-50 f/2.8. It almost never leaves the X-T5. I do have others X mount lens 10-24, 27, 70-300, Sigma 56mm. With the X-T5 I normally shoot manual but auto ISO and use the exposure comp to adjust. That’s not going to work so well with the H2S with just two dials and two of my 5 lens not having an aperture ring. If only the command dials clicked like the XT line. I might be stuck going fully manual and using the ISO button to adjust, or running shutter or aperture priority with those two lens. Too bad there is no FV mode like Canon were one dial moves between which exposure setting you want to control with the front dial. I totally agree with the 3 firmware suggestions you made. I wish my X-T5 had an auto mode for type of subject detection. Heck if the X-S20 can do it the faster processor on the H2S should have no issue.
Hi Jeff, and welcome to the Fujifilm family! I hope you enjoy your X-H2S and have a smooth transition from Canon. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and I encourage you to be patient in the learning of all the slightly different way Fujifilm does things than Canon in operating your camera. There's no perfect camera, for you or anyone, and I find that I have to remind myself of that whenever I get frustrated ;) Here's to lots of great photo adventures ahead!
Great overview of this camera, Michael. It'll be hard to sell the X-H2s, especially because I know Fuji's going to continue to put some work into this amazing machine! You rocked this video!
Thanks Michael for this Happy B'Day X-H2s review! It's nice to be able to compare it with my experiences with the X-H2. Quickly, the 40mp difference can get expensive and slightly time-consuming; from file transfer to programs loading for editing. For 'stick-to-one-object' in firmware, great suggestion! It would be nice to touch the screen or half-press the shutter button with the AF on desired subject. I also need this when shooting animals when I only want one of them to be tracked. Since I use film recipes, it would also be nice to simply replace some of the native ones with user-defined ones without having to 'burn up' a custom position. That way we could use the recipe in any given situation and shooting mode. (Of course a RESET would restore the original ones). Coming from the X-S10, I'm looking forward to the X-S20. I like the X-H2 but it still is just a bit larger and heavier. The X-S10 fits in big pockets and small camera 'pouches'. Not so with the X-H2. I'm amazed at what firmware updates did for AF on the X-H2(s) but, like you, many are hoping that the AF for the X-S20 comes to the other new cameras. Again, thanks for your very good long-term review:)
Hi! Thanks for watching and sharing these insightful thoughts. Every camera (regardless of budget!) has some compromises of size, performance, weight, etc... so, defining how you want to use the camera is so important. But, it's also great to have so many different options for different types of uses. The fun thing is, they all make creating photos easier than ever, and it's wonderful to be "spoiled" this way. Cheers!
Hi Michael. Thx for sharing as i'm just asking myself if i'll breack the bank to buy the xh2s. One features you don't mention is the electronic shutter with 1/160s rolling shutter. that is great to shoot in concert/show where you need to be silent, plus, no stress with banding happening with some artificial lightings.
Hello! Many thanks for watching and sharing your comment. Thanks for the thoughts on electronic shutter at concerts/shows! If I ever find myself in that situation, I now know what to do :)
Good to see you Michael. Excellent long term “actual user” review. Here’s my long term review of my X-T4, it’s great😂, the one thing that’s very frustrating is auto focus accuracy, as an example, this morning I was trying to focus on a dragonfly (on a stick with nothing in the background) and it just wouldn't do it, I have to first focus on something larger at about the same distance and then it will pick up on my “intended” target, if the dragonfly is on the ground, the focusing is very fast and accurate, it’s a good thing that I’m doing this for fun, if I was doing it professionally I would probably go for a different brand, I don’t want to buy an X-T5 (or an X-H something) just to find out that it has the same issue and have to return it. Be well and stay safe.
Hi Enrique! I've experienced similar focus issues as you describe. For me, it seems to happen most often with 70-300mm at the more telephoto end and when fairly close (5-6 feet) from subject. It still happens with X-H2S, but seems a bit better than on X-T3. In my experience, while it's frustrating for sure, it's also something I've learned to live with. Autofocus performance, or lack thereof at times, has been the weakest link in the Fuji X-System. Having said that, I know I am spoiled by getting used to fast and mostly accurate autofocus, that the times it acts unpredictably, I feel terribly burdened ;) Here's to fast and accurate autofocus in your future photo adventures!
@@MSladekPhoto After reading your reply I immediately went outside and did a similar shot with the XF16-80 and got a much better (faster and accurate) focusing experience, I guess it’s the nature of the beast on the XF70-300 (I still like the lens and will put up with its "stubbornness"). Thank you.
@@Enrique-the-photographer Ahhhh! Nicely done experimenting for a reality check and diagnosis. My experience of the 70-300 is it can struggle in getting initial focus with thin subjects - tree branches, dragonflies, etc.
Reliable tracking of a face, when there are others around: a really important feature. Very annoying, that this doesn't work, no matter what AF C option selected. Good video! I am having a lot of overheating problems in the summer with direct sunlight, even if the camera isn't used at all for quite a time. Only shooting stills.
Hi, thanks for watching and sharing your comment. I agree about designating a specific face to track being a great feature to add. I’ve not had overheating with photos this summer on 4+ hour walks in sun, but it has not gotten above 90 Fahrenheit, yet… Here’s to cooler days and camera!
Hi, very good comment and thoughts…I fully agree on everything. I actually have got a question for you: as a second body… which you would consider ? H2….? XT-5 ? or the latest X-20 ? which of the three could be consider the best companion for the H2-S ? thx
Hi! Many thanks for watching and sharing your kind words. If I was to choose a second body, my first choice would be X-H2 due to the body and controls being exactly the same as X-H2S. Second choice would be X-S20 (note: I have not used either one personally!), for grip and similar control layout. I've had the traditional control dial layout with X-T1, 2, 3, 4 and find that I am much quicker to change exposure with the mode dial layout of X-H2/S and X-S20. Cheers!
@@MSladekPhoto I actually could think to "buy" your considerations, because is not the first time I got the same opinion from other colleagues. I love the XT-3 retrò style ( I own two) but I think is time to look at with a different perspective, being a little bit... Less romantic and more practical.... I think the ones you mention is the perfect pipeline, I almost convinced to follow your suggestion. Thx a lot. Greetings from Italy.
Hi! Thanks for watching. I had it in my notes to mention that. Sorry! I had an issue with overheating one time. It was a very hot day (90+ degrees F), wedding, inside a church with no air conditioning. I got a heat warning on the camera after about an hour. Turned off camera for about 30 seconds, and was good to go for the remainder (about 20 minutes) of the photos after the ceremony. Since then, no issues! Hope that helps. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
