Nice setup. I like that you can back your trailer under the Deck. That would come in handy. I putting a set up like this in my shed. I can no longer just lift the cast iron Kohler engines out of my Cubs like I use to.
Bud, run a steel 3/16" cable between the floor joists. Turnbuckle on the far end to get it nice and tight. Before you hang the cable cut 15 links of chain from 30 links of chain ( need individual links). Run the cable thru the chain links. Now loop your extension cord and zip tie the top of each loop to a chain link similar to a shower curtain. Your cord will slide back and forth with the winch whilst staying out of the way and out of the dirt. Works like a champ for me.
I have this hoist sitting on my work bench unopened. I have a truss roof system in my shop and was going to go all the way to the top where the rafters touch to get the most strength. Attaching 3/4" plywood strips about 10" x 8' catching the rafters in two places and two of the angled 2 xs below them. I am thinking of doing this on 2 trusses and running an 1 1/2" or 2" whatever the brackets on the motor will take and spanning two trusses. I didn't really want to crawl around up in there but I know it will burn up the motor before the trusses fail set up like that. After seeing what you did I like having it on a track and at my 10' flat ceiling height. That metal rack screwed in like that and then maybe a few pieces of 1" strap welded to it and catching the trusses all the way to the top should distrubute the weight and be strong enough. I just don't want to get killed and I was taught to never count on fasteners in wood to hold a load and always use a post under a joist to transfer the weight down! I had a friend that didnt believe me so I supported a 4x4 across a half inch bolt and hit it with a sledge hammer and it split like a log!
Hey Mr. Handy, thanks for the great idea. Actually I'm steeling your engerering and have purchased the track and screws from home depot today. However, before installing I placed the trolly in the track including the deck screw and noticed some friction with the head of the screw. Actually not only did it rub the center, it seems to be rubbing between the wheels of the trolly. Did you encounter this issue? Or even better do you remember the maker of the screw. I know I can modify screw , but if I can find a more proper screw would save me A LOT OF TIME since I'm planning on 20 feet. One more question about how many did you put for the total of 10 feet?
Excellent! I don't remember the manufacturer of the screw, but it did touch also. I just filed a little bit off and good to go. I put a screw in about every 8 inches, which is probably overkill but it works.
Good idea. I use my tractor to lift my mowers that don’t have jack points on them but once I get my shop built I definitely want a large hoist in it. I’d love to build a crane way in it but that will be some coin and a car hoist is a higher priority. If only everything didn’t cost a boat load of cash…lol
Thanks for the video. I would like to the same setup. I didn't buy anything yet. I am concerned about the "L" brackets. What are the measurements? I know you made yours but I don't have that capability.
Put a removable stop at each end to prevent the "trolley" from rolling off. Also, add cross bracing to the joists. This will improve the deck performance and limit twisting of the hoist used with the winch. Keep a maintenance schedule for those trolley bearings. I have seen them fail. A better track mounting method would be to use brackets with bolts that pass through joists.
Thanks for the idea of using #14 x 3" Inch CTX Construction Lag Star Drive Screws. Jake Sales is reporting the shear strength is +2800 lbs and average pull-out strength is 897 lbs on Yellow Pine Wood. My hoist is rated for 880 lbs so below the limits of lag screws.
@@HandyGuy2016 I attached the strut channel for the hoist to a 6x8" hemlock beam using track hangers. KUMGROT make really cool Channel Trolley Track Hangers for Strut Channels. I used the construction lag screws to hold the hangers in place.
is this secure on one joist? Would it be stronger if the beam was perpendicular across several joists? The winch can pull 880lbs but can the joist hold that much weight?
I am having a terrible time getting the rollers to clear the torque screws t30 torture screws the rollers fit so close in the unistrute they hit the screw heads the unistrute is a-1200-hs any help would be appreciated
Also the unistrute has such big slots in it you really need to run a washer on them or do what I did and drill a hole in between the slots in the unistrute can you buy deeper unistrute
@@HandyGuy2016 I'm looking at their 1300 lb hoist. I've got 24 ft long 2x12s, and it's quite a big span. I'm thinking about making a steel frame that sits on top of the 2x12s, spanning across two of them, maybe as many as four. Then putting some bracing in between the two by 12 so that they don't flex.
I would of went and got a 4x6x 16' from a Mill and 2 6x6x8' made a beam for lifting . that 2x12 is only hung by nails l no load ratting . lifting 200 pounds could be deadly .
I cut the 6x6 to fit a 4x6 into the top it runs to rafter and I can use 4 screws to keep it from twisting or falling over the legs 2x4 brace set on the ground I pull engines 400 pounds . i can remove it as needed . or change the setting .
I just bought one of these and the cable inside of it just is very loose and keeps getting stuck. I've tried unwinding it completely enrolling it back up with the remote but it doesn't work I can't get it tight enough and it keeps stopping how can I fix this
