I need to add an update. I am not bashing anyone but this cable failed as well, in the same place. Very disappointed that the cable started leaking within 3K miles. This is the second Motion-Pro cable that has done this, in less than 7K miles total. Definitely a manufacturing or design problem. Hill Country was not willing to do anything for me except EXCHANGE the cable. Fool me once ... Anyway, I went with a new cable from American Classic Motors, 68 11/16" Braided Stainless +6 Extended Length Clutch Cable Harley Touring 08-16, SKU 06521493. I have about 2K miles on this cable and no leaking at all. I like the design of this cable better than the Hill Country / Motion-Pro and as a bonus it cost about $20 less.
Enjoyed watching and learning , Thanks for sharing . I’m debating tackling this job myself, I’ll have to loosen my exhaust in order to get to my clutch cover & my luck, my exhaust will leak and I will have to take it to a service facility. Lol! Thanks!
A few comments: 1. Good tip on popping the cover by pulling the clutch lever! 2. I don't remove the cover from the cable on the bike. I just pull the whole assembly for the final disassembly/reassembly on the bench. Easier to use the snap ring pliers there too. Magnetic parts trays do wonders for the ball bearings and small parts/screws 3. The reverse is done for the install. The cable will be tightened into the cover on the workbench then feed the free end up to the clutch lever. This eliminates cross threading and having to adjust the position or "twist" of the cable 4. On the cable adjuster, run the threaded sleeve all the way into the cable. Open the derby cover and readjust the clutch pushrod. Loosen the locknut and turn in the pushrod adjuster finger tight until you cannot turn it anymore with your fingers. Tighten the locknut. This will give you full adjustment capability on the cable adjuster. (The manual says to back off the adjuster 1/2 to 3/4 turn, but this means increasing the length of the cable adjuster) In the video, your clutch adjustment was a leftover setpoint from the cable you were replacing. 5. Anodized aluminum frame clamps for cables are cheap on eBay and won't allow the cable to touch the frame or fender. They won't break apart from age and ultraviolet rays. Aircraft style clamps work as well.
Thanks for the video. I noticed your cable was on the outside of the crash bar, is that how it was mounted before? I've been reading forms for my 2012 street glide and they seem to say run in on the inside of it. Replacing my cable this weekend.
Hi, sorry I was out of town. Mine was outside of the crash bar. If you are replacing yours with the same length, I'd follow where it was when you started.
I went with a new cable from American Classic Motors, 68 11/16" Braided Stainless +6 Extended Length Clutch Cable Harley Touring 08-16, SKU 06521493. I have 12.5" mini apes and I believe this cable would also work for 14" bars as there is plenty of slack. Or you could check out their website and see if they have 70-72 inch cable. I'd rather deal with routing a little extra cable than to have one that is too tight.
