I'm currently doing the primary belt change out along with the front and rear motor mounts. Hope to lose that high-speed "dyna walk" with the new mounts. Good video bro. Thx.
Julian, this video was a huge help. I'll be doing some work on my 2003 Softail soon and, although not the same bike as yours, I'm confident I can do the work after watching your vid and cross referencing the Clymer Repair Manual.
Thanks, btw if your swinging arm bearings or bush is worn I strongly suggest you sort it out while the primary chain case is off. Sometimes the spindle can stick. it’s not ‘get at able’ at the nut end ‘cos the primary chain case blocks your access to knocking it out.
@@juliansinclair2122 thatks for the reply am taking on a very tierd soft tail , i suspect the belt is the least of its worries going by the noises coming out of the motor ... have just discovered that the tappet oil screen was completely blocked... great
at the end we are all the same maschine and technix addicted guys around the world. dosn't matter witch brand it is,its just important what power comes out of it. best regards
They make a very afforfable nylon step block to lock up the primary when.loosening and tightening the compensator nut. It just goes on between the chain and sprocket to loosen and goes between clutch sprocket and chain to tighten. No crushing wood into sprocket or jamming rags in there. With block in place you can just use a breaker bar and break compensator nut loose easily. No needing an impact or beating with a hammer. Saves the stress of beating on your crank.and stressing the Alternator.
Since the video I have put a Fat boy front end on with solid wheels front and back. Didn't video it though.... Apart from having to adjust the turning stops on the headstock, the front end goes on perfectly, the rear solid wheel directly replaced the spoked wire wheel, all spacer fitted. It looks a lot like a Fat Boy, but it has that soft suspension Dyna feel which I like for distance work. Also with the original Dyna pipes (Slash Cuts) they run lower than the Fatboy pipes so I can use bigger throw over panniers.
Mate, you ought to try a pneumatic impact driver, if you've the space for the air compressor. It's a bit handier than a boot and a mallet for removing snug bolts. :D
No room for the compressor, bought a Clarke electrical impact driver when I realised that it was going to need a front sprocket/pulley replacement, rather than just replacing to back pulley...
The wonder of "Silicon".... for 25 years i have spayed a fine film of silicon on rear drive belt and spun the rear wheel wipe off any drops or excess silicon,,,,,,,this keeps the belt fresh n supple ,,,resulting in a Much longer life span ,,,,,,,you can use silicon spray on most rubber & plastic ....Care taken not to get silicon on brake discs & pads, Silicon spray can also be used on tyre walls to prevent cracking and sun light heat damage ,,,,,,and on snow board bindings to prevent compact snow from clogging ,,,,Car door rubber seals etc fan belts on top side as to much could cause fan belt slip.,,,,.prolongs the life span,, ,,,but i wouldn't breath it in when spraying silicon.....
A while since I did this, but you remove the front and rear toothed assemblies (including the clutch basket) together with the chain attached, once nuts etc removed.... they pull off as a whole unit. I assume you have a Clymer Manual....it may have detailed differences to my 1340, but should be similar...
I remember chains in the early 80's. Using Chain Grease like Linklife and drowning the chain in melting grease. Chains have come a long way since then. My belt snapped at 23k miles as it did on my earlier sportster. For me chains just age and get sloppy. It just needs a piece of road chipping to get on the rear belt pulley which is wide enough to hold it. and... Chain sprockets too narrow for that in my view. I understand why they went to belts initially when bike chains were poorly made, but chains last a good while with all that X and O ring rubber stuff...., providing they are greased that is... BTW do you guys use any belt grease, or do you let the belts run dry.... Thanks for the video comments. cheers!
and what do you do when your swing arm bearings fail? I got 60K on my belt- when the time comes, the belt and bearings get replaced at the same time. It's called a winter project- great way to get away from the wife. Heat the garage, chill the beer. Ride safe.
my 1999 evo 1340 is getting oil on my belt ,could it be my shift shaft seal?i noticed my primary oil was low and added some oil and started noticing leak on belt
+adam moscatello Don't comment if you don't know what in the hell you're talking about. The clutch hub is left hand thread, and the Harley Davidson FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL calls for red on the hub bolt and compensator bolt threads. Buzz off.
ton san Not easier to maintain as chains don't last nearly as long as belts, and if you want that front chain sprocket off you get to do the same job more often. GOOD chain and sprockets aren't cheap, and if a cheap chain fails it can do some impressive damage. When a chain gets slack it makes a nice "bandsaw". It's common to find starter drive housings munched by chains which were not kept properly adjusted.It's routine to get sixty thousand miles out of a belt and I have. That was an old 1988 belt and belt tech has improved since. I have chain and belt drive Harleys and unless I build a high-output engine and decide to do hard launches I'll keep my belts. Modern chain lubed with chain wax works nicely but I'll avoid chains where I have a choice. Good video by the way. I STRONGLY suggest every Harley owner buy the FACTORY service manual and parts book which is worth it for the exploded drawings, not to mention ordering replacement parts is an easy part number internet or Ebay search away. Clymer and Chilton are fine for absorbing spilt oil where Harley is concerned.
