all you film shooters ... stop scanning and start printing , the goal is the print ... start dark room printing ... you will love it and it will teach your more about photography and your photography than anything else you will do ...
I love the square. Love Rolleiflex TLRs too but Hasselblad 500 was always the one. Worked a bit with the RB67 many many years ago and its a fantastic camera, but for me it is purely a studio camera, whereas the Hasselblad can do both really well.
Agree with almost everything in the video. For me (RB user not RZ), I sold my RB & all the lenses to fund the 503CW I currently have. It was almost entirely down to weight. When I go out taking photos, I look at the camera shelf, wondering what I'll pick. So very often the RB got left at home because it was just too much weight. And I was one of the "weight, pah, just get stronger". Sadly, after 4 years, I was just leaving it at home. I am really enjoying the sq format and whilst I do like 6x7, I can live with 6x6. Ultimately, this video really proves that both cameras are great and the deciding factors really are heavy vs light, cheap vs expensive, and 6x7 vs 6x6. Part of me wonders if, in 12 months, you're looking at that monster thinking... Hmm... maybe I'll take something lighter... :) Good to see quality content as always.
I’ve had my Rz 6 years it is heavy. For me it’s a “project” camera. With the steps you need to do to take a picture it’s very similar to large format. I do walk around with it all day. The 180,65 and 140 normally stay at home and I stick with the 110. I love this camera for its rotating back and using it for multiple exposure. It’s the perfect portrait camera. Results are out of this world
There were three times in my life when I considered buying a Hasselblad. The first was in the late 1960s when I was shopping for a professional quality medium format camera to replace the Yashica TLR supplied to me by the photo studio where I worked. However, since the Hasselblad was way out of my price range, I purchased a Mamiya TLR instead. The second time was a few decades later when I decided to replace my worn-out Mamiya TLR wedding cameras. I considered the Hasselblad but decided on a 6x7cm Fuji rangefinder with a 90mm normal lens and a 6x9cm Fuji rangefinder with a 65mm wide-angle lens. The third time was when I needed a medium format portrait lens. I considered a Hasselblad but decided on the less expensive Mamiya RB67 with 150mm f/4 soft focus portrait lens, 180mm head & shoulder portrait lens, and 250mm lens for tight face shots. I had never used Zeiss Hasselblad lenses; however, I have used Zeiss lenses on 35mm film cameras and APS-C digital cameras. The medium format Mamiya RB67 lenses I own and use have performed as well as my small format Zeiss lenses.
I have the RZ67 and I have to say I absolutely love that camera. I don't mind the weight at all. I take it on all my trips. Road trips, plane rides, all of it. The hasse would most def allow me to pack more stuff in my bag (I have a brevite camera bookbag) but it's really not a big deal. I thought only having 10 photos per roll would bother me, but it really doesn't.
Question? How do you compensate for the shutter since the RZ67 shutter only goes up to 400 shutter speed? I'm trying to figure that out. I practically have a brand new estate purchase Mamiya RZ67 Pro but noticed only up to 400 shutter speed. Thank you.
A very good comparison! I have been using Hasselblad 500 and 2000 for 15 years and would not go down that route again. They might be easy to carry but if you carry the whole system it gets heavy too and in both cases you are wishing for a cart to carry it a longer distance. If you are using just the 80 mm Planar the Hblad is portable and the RZ still isn't but neither camera will give you critically sharp photos this way due to mirror-slap, compared to a TLR-Rolleiflex which I also owned for some time. Also, the Hasselblad needs more maintainance than any other systems I ever owned with regular cleaning and tuning of shutters every few years, complete deadlock in a 500 ELM and uneven spacing in two backs which came back dead as a brick from cla. Before you look for a Hasselblad first find a competent repairer you trust. You can imagine that my trust in that system is rather limited now and my love for the 80 mm F-Planar and 150 mm C-Sonnar cant make up for this. Some of the other lenses, notably the non-fle 4/50 mm and the 5.6/250, aren't really much to write home about btw. The Mamiya is a great camera for working from the trunk or around your house and on a tripod and there it is more flexible due to the available tilt/shift accessories, bellows-focussing and rotating back. The blad is more of an elegantly executed compromise in everything coming from the Rolleiflex 6x6 (55x55 mm actually) heritage.
Jonathan, I own both of those cameras and find each very useful. I totally agree the RZ is a beast to carry compared to my 503CX. I seldom venture far from my vehicle with the RZ and it spends most of its time on a tripod. The Hasselblad is my messenger bag friend and at my side more than any other film camera. I love the square format 90% of the time and curse it the other 10%. I've found over my 45 years of photography experience that I have to reframe my way of seeing things when I change formats. Thanks for the videos, I always enjoy your insights and the way you present.
Having owned a 500CM and owning a couple of RZs I thought your post both informative and fair. I decided to go down the RZ road because of the format in that you can always crop 6x7 to 6x6 if you really want a square image but if you want to shoot rectangular on 6x6 you are losing part of your negative. I found the Hasselblad to function better hand held while the Mamiya works best on a tripod. Just a couple of points on the RZ; If buying backs buy those for the !! or 11D as the earlier backs have foam seals. The AE prism for the !! differs electrically from that of the earlier pro and the AE hood does not work on the !! unless modified. As to screens one has to be aware that different screens vary in brightness and as the AE prisms meter the screen one may have to compensate. I use Beattie Intenscreen and I need to compensate nearly two stops (But the image is really bright). As to lenses the later ULD and Apo lenses although expensive used are magnificent as are the 65, 110 and 140 macro. The good news is that none of the commonly bought lenses are less than good and being available in large numbers tend to be relatively cheap so only buy mint. Batteries are easy to obtain online so I always have a couple in the bag and they do last quite a while with the Seiko shutter never giving trouble which is not uncommon on mechanical shutters at slow speeds and with heavy use.
it's funny because when I started my professional carreer I could not afford a Hassi and the Mamyia was compromise. First thing when I earned money was the purchase of a 503CX. I still own it. I love it. I love the square as well. You can learn to love it!
one plus for the Hasselblad, is you Don't have to carry the bellows around with you all the time, and fixed extension tubes are a compact option, if you go with your 'shoulder bag' carry option; for close focus distance, the Tubes are there as an option, also teleconvertors, and close up lenses, so making the 'kit' as small as possible, with maximum creative options still open to you. ( another boon to the 'blad is that ANY v-series lens WILL fit any camera, the F lenses fit the 500 series, but no shutter (only good for T exposures), the C's fit the 200 series, as they can be converted (switch the shutter speed to C setting), CF's fit all equally, you do each 'switch over' depending on what max speed (or flash sync) is desired, 1/200th or 1/500th).
There seem to be a lot of usability downsides to switching from the Hasselblad 500CM to the RZ67, with the only benefit being the small increase in negative width from 56mm to 68mm. This results in an aspect ratio of roughly 6:5. Is it worth it for the extra inconvenience and the back ache? One might just as well crop the 6cm x 6cm frame down to 6cm x 5cm when editing since the effect on image quality of doing that is fairly slight. To go seriously "unsquare" and yet gain in IQ, maybe the logical step is to go to 6 x 9 (actually 56 x 84mm) and get the genuine 2:3 aspect ratio. That train of thought leads to the Fujica GL690 series of rangefinder cameras, since there are no other practical alternatives for this format. Having recently acquired one of these, along with three lenses, I can vouch for the image quality which is top class. Being a rangefinder camera, close-up work with the GL690 is probably not its forte although the viewfinder does have parallax compensation. However, the portability and ease-of-use are much closer to the 500CM than the RZ67 while the prices are nearer to the RB67 system than to the Hassy. Of course, like with all these old medium format cameras, one has to buy with great care to avoid big repair bills.
I have both systems. I bought the Mamiya for the 6x7 format but found that I can't tell the difference just looking at the negatives. 6x7 is so close to square that you have to measure it to tell which is which. On the other hand you can clearly see the size difference looking at the cameras. I don't shoot the Mamiya anymore... 😎
Good review! I started off with a Mamiya RB, not electronic, but the same form-factor. Fantastic camera, I loved it. Really liked the in-built macro capability, the sharp lenses and the viewfinder. Only problem was the weight, and the ergonomics of carrying it around - with the cocking lever getting caught everywhere, it was a bummer. Moved to Pentax 67, just as heavy, but much more ergonomic.
Jonathan one other quirk with the mamiya RZ's is that to do T (timer exposures ) one has to mechanically switch to a 'mechanical system'-for the 645's and on the RB/Z's (K\L lenses most importantly), do the shot IN SEQUENCE (set T, fire, PRESS 'b' for K\L's to de-cock fully (MUST ONLY do it this way for this series); for the rest start to actuate the winding lever, hear the 'click', then re-cock, OR alternately, Turn the speed ring off T setting, this closes the shutter, then re-cock). for Hasselblad's, all you do is turn a little lever on the shutter button, PRESS the button (NOT a release threaded into it!), then, to close the shutter, take the weight off the button, by holding in, reset the lever, then release the button, a very much simpler solution. one other way, on Hasselblads is to set B, then use a locking cable release.
When in researched hasselblad cameras I watched your original videos . I watched this and my conclusion is that I'm still very glad I am a hasselblad owner rather than RB67 . I love the square image . I use the 645 back with colour films to save money as 16 shots is a 60% saving and still end up cropping back to square fairly often ! Hasselblad A12 = 12 photos A16 = 16 photos , 67 = 10 photos. With the cost of film etc that's a an important consideration I was going to sell my Pentax 67 but I'm glad I didn't as it's a nice casual camera to use
I absolutely understand the cost of film but my way of looking at it is that cutting the edges off the film is the wasteful part, not the extra cost per frame. I guess you could say I'm looking at the 'cost per usable negative area', and my anti-square cropping gave me 12 6x4.5 frames per roll as opposed to the 10 6x7 frames I get now
@@JonathanNotley in which case you would be horrified by me shooting 617 on a 4x5 LF !! (Bnw home dev ) I'm more focused on cost per image . If hassy had a 67 back i would use it !
Don't hang a 6 lb camera/lens around your neck. I carried mine in a back pack because I listed to the youtubers who said it had to go into a back pack. Then got a black rapid and didn't want to use it because no place to hook the safety strap. So lengthened the padded op tech strap fully long and wore it across chest with the camera resting on my R hip. I could either support it slightly with my r hand or press it against my r hip taking some of the weight off my shoulder. Yesterday did a 3 hour walk about with zero problem. I like that it hangs vertically this way better than upside down on the black rapid anyway. If you want to reduce the hassie from 66 to a more rectangle, you might as well carry a mamiya 645 pro tl and it's no bigger than the hassie and can be used with a motor winder at a fraction of the cost. The RB not RZ adjusts aperture and shutter on the lens. RU-vidrs sung the praises of the RZ for years...til they failed and now many are replacing them with RB's that are fully mechanical. And the 2 weigh exactly the same, folks have weighted them side by side. And once old electricals fail and there are no replacement parts, you have an expensive paperweight. With the rb it is mechanical and can be repaired at a reasonable cost. 67 is not meant for fast work. If I need fast for film, I'll set my f6 with fine grained film in matrix metering, hit back button focusing and let the 6 fps winder prepare me for followup shots. It's horses for course. I wouldn't bring a draught horse to the racing circuit. I wondered about the quality between hassie and Mamiya lenses and was interesting they are comparable. But not round bokeh out of hassie lenses for that cost? I just upgraded my rb to kl lenses that are identical to the RZ lenses. So RZ quality, RS reliability and cost. Thanks for the bokeh demo why, i learned something today. I replaced the original screen with a Rick Olsen split prism one. It's super bright and the split prism makes critical focus much more reliable. I always felt I was pulling focus out of my nether regions and had to hope I had it, now I just nail it. I agree on the square format, tried a tlr and am selling it. My suggestion is you dump the RZ, get a rb67 pro sd and use Kl lenses. Thank you for one of the best Mamiya reviews I have seen especially in light of the comparison with Hassie. Was glad to from someone familiar with hassie and mamiya the lenses are comparable.
Just wanted to point out (since Jonathan only mentioned it briefly in the video...) that for anyone who's ok with square format images but is looking for something a little more "modern" I can wholeheartedly recommend having a closer look at the focal plane Hasselblad's, especially the FE´s as well. I'm using a 203FE for a couple years now and it works great. Has all the auto functions (auto-exposure, exposure comp, self-timer) and FE lenses are mostly a stop faster than their leaf shutter equivalents. They are still fully compatible with leaf shutter lenses as well (essentially turning them into a manual CX style Hasselblad's).... and yes, easy mirror lockup as well :)
I have the Mamiya RZ and it's great, but definitely a project camera and so unfortunately it spends most of the time at home. As much as I love 6x7 format, I think the weight and size of the Hasselblad is worth a change.
I love square format and the Hasselblads! But despite being from Sweden, they're not entirely cold proof😄 The shutter on mine gets a bit sticky around -10C and below.
I love everything about the RZ besides the weight.. find myself not wanting to shoot on location solely because its so heavy, I have a prism finder on it which makes it even worse
Both are fantastic! I went from a RZ Pro II to a 503CXi. Loved the RZ! It is wonderful to shoot and the better portrait camera IMO. I also think 6x7 is just about the perfect format for me. But in the end, the Mamiya was too big and I don't like that it requires a battery. Before the Mamiya I had a Rolleiflex 2.8 and loved the mechanical build, size, and square format but missed interchangeable lenses. The Hasselblad scratches all my itches and is a great compromise.
The thing about these cameras is the negative size. As we know the bigger the negatives the better. That said, if you’re going to end up scanning the negatives there really isn’t an advantage of one or the other. If you’re printing them optically, however, there will be a difference because the 6x7 negative won’t need to be cropped for an 8x10 print. A Hasselblad 6x6 negative will be reduced down to a 6x4.5. It’s a small difference but a difference nonetheless less. Again, you’ll only notice that if you print it with a print enlarger and a lens (the old ways).
Ahh this was a lovely video. I own a Hasselblad and it’s rare in this day and age to feel contented which just the one thing. Perhaps you might get comments from disgruntled users of Hasselblad. The square format isn’t easy to frame with. I take great joy in handling the camera and process of using it along with the sounds of the shutter. I hope the Mamiya serves you well and the lenses are formidable and sharp. As usual your video has good production quality and seems so well put together and your opinions are grounded. I throughly enjoyed this and appreciate my Hasselblad all the more. That it’s mechanical. I’d love to see you do a review of the 35mm or 50mm Summilux with film or digital. But only if you can. Thank you.
I own both the RZ and a Hasselblad 503cx, and even though I find the 6x7 format easier to work with and the RZ a lot easier to focus with, I still largely favour the Hasselblad over the RZ in most use cases. Mostly due to weight and size.
I'm a big fan of my RB67 P-SD because it is all mechanical (which is why I got it over the RZ) so the shutter speed is on the lens like hasselblad. Therefore, most of the criticisms you seem to have for the Mamiya go away, except the weight of course. I also don't use the bellows lock, but maybe that's because I don't tend to store of carry/transport the camera in a way that the lens would pull the bellows away from the body. All in all, I would prefer a hassie for the sake of a lighter camera on hikes
Jonathan there is one correction, the Hasselblads DO posess half stops, just on the APATURE, not the shutter speed, it is only when you 'feel' the iris ring you realize this, as even the EV scale doesn't account for this 1/2 stop capacity, but the clicks are still there!
comparing with a an rb67 might be more accurate. It's mechanical, the shutter and aperture are on the lens and not separated like the rz67. New to the channel, have enjoyed the videos so far
I made a living on these cameras for 15 before digital. I started with the mamya 330 and RB for studio work. Later at another studio moved over to Hasselblad. Shooting square is faster. You crop in your head. Not that hard. In an RB you have to spin the back. Very time consuming and too big for weddings. The 6x7 format has a look though. Not sure why besides just a depth a field thing. Just looks like what a portrait should look like when money is involved.
The RZ is the same weight as my digital setup, a Nikon D850 with grip, the D5 battery and a 24-70mm f2.8 (non vr). But it's not really the weight it's the ergonomics will make it seem heavier and more awkward.
how are you intending to start a course of high dosage steroids and hit the gym 7 days a week when you move to the RZ ? :D its like a swapping a portable tv for a cabinet tv in the 70s ... rz is fine if you never take it any where , it is not the best field camera ... an intrepid 4*5's with a 6*9 back will be lighter ...
I literally shot my first roll on a hassy yesterday. I’m trying to love it, but even after a CLA I’ve noticed uneven frame spacing and also the mirror lockup fires the shutter and rear curtain both. Do I want a camera that won’t forgive me if I forget to forward the roll after every shot…? That said, I wouldn’t pick up an RZ on account of its size. So back to the repair shop for me.
that a probably the back and not the camera , try another back and see what happens ..might not be the biggest problem in the end.. hassies live forever ....
Mamiya too heavy for me! Hasselblood needs constant services, that are pricey! I use a '50's Rolleiflex Automat. Lens hood, filter and close up lens! A system that you can hold in one hand!
Long time Mamiya RB67 studio shooter that made the switch to Hasselblad 503 about 6 years ago. I don't shoot in the studio anymore and Definitely prefer the Hassy but I just lost my camera a couple weeks ago in a boating accident. So I am saving up for another and have noticed prices went way up since I bought mine last. Ouch !
I dont't get why the mirror up function on the Mamiya seems quirky to you. It's a two step process on the Hasselblad as well. The only difference is that the Hasselblad has a dedicated mirror up button. On the Mamiya the shutter button becomes the mirror up button once the cable is screwn into the lens. But it's exactly the same process. You screw the cable into the lens, you press a button on the camera, you realease the shutter with the shutter cable. Exactly the same.
quite funny how the japanese made a un japanese camera.. japan is all about zen and simplicity and minimalist ... looks like swed's nail that and the japanese forget there own teachings ..
Hasselblad make format masks as well , you could have shoot 4*5 or panoramic images .. makes no difference when you are printing ... you can still make bigger prints than what you need with 6*45 or 4*5 or panoramic formats .. the print is the goal .... forget the horrible and social media junk... if you are not dark room printing ,. you are not completing the circle , you are doing yourselves a disservice and ,missing out on a vital part of film photography and the analog process ..
