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Being an avid cyclist (a roadie) I immediately took an interest in that book! That was a pleasant surprise, finding this topic on a channel about woodworking!
You missed the opportunity to say: "...they braced themselves to see my arms be shredded down to *Stumpy Nubs*..." Other than that, I follow your videos with great enthousiasm and have learned SO much. Thanks, from a European who has moved to the U.S.
I'm UK Scottish. I just welded an extension on to the arbour to take dado's and that works fine. I just have to dig the dado's out of the ceiling every now and then.
Here in the UK we also have the dado set's angle-grinder cousin: the wall chaser. I own one, it's the best tool to use if you absolutely positively want grit and dust to appear in all sorts of places around your house that you thought were completely sealed off from the room you're working in.
I had to google "the wall chaser" to see what it was. Oh yeah, that's SOOOO much safer than a table saw with dado blades.😏 (Yes, that was thick with sarcasm.) I am curious though, what would you use such a tool for? I mean, it's obviously not for sawing a piece of wood in half. While it's a pretty cool looking looking saw, for me I can't imagine ever finding a use for such a tool. Yes, I know I'm like a year late with this response, but I didn't want to go two years. Oh, and pretty cool screen name, my friend.
@@pumpkinheadghoul Yeah, rather than having walls made from wooden battens and plasterboard (what you call drywall) like you do. Over here we decided it was better to have internal walls made of solid brick, so we have to demolish the house with those wall chasers if we want to install new cables/pipes etc. And donkmeister wasn't kidding about the dust. It took us two years to get rid of it all when we had the house rewired!
You’re videos are hands down the best for educational value. You’re dry witty humor is just a bonus. You seem to effortlessly throw in some humor in every video and have fun doing it.
I worked for a company that made high quality bookcases, audio-visual cabinets, etc. We had dado sets in radial arm saws to cut dados for permanent shelves. I spent over 20 hours a week cutting dados for two years and never had an inkling of the setup being dangerous.
@@aprildegele1510, 🙂once you've got used to the self-propelling nature of the blade making the cut a RAS is in fact a very satisfying tool to use. It is just as dangerous or safe as any other power tool with pointy bits moving at speed and it's not as if the blade could suddenly come off the arm and jump out and into your chest. 😏😉 In cross-cut operations the wood is firmly pressed against the fence and you're moving the blade, which is MOUNTED on its carriage, towards you. Note, towards you, not right up to your body. Compare that with a table saw, where your hands are used to control a piece of wood around the blade. The blade might not even come close to your hands, but the wood can do all kinds of things if something does go wrong... I'm not saying it's more dangerous than a RAS, but there's a different kind of potential risk that you have to look out for. I don't have a need for a dado set yet, because I have a router in a table and I'm not routing anything much anyway, but I'm so getting one for my RAS as soon as the need arises.
@@stadleroux I completely agree with this assessment of the radial arm saw. Especially for crosscuts, I feel that they're actually quite a bit safer than a table saw: as long as you brace correctly against the self-feeding action, the wood is safely held against the fence, and kickback isn't an issue. Even if the saw does get away from you, it will just self-feed a little bit until the deep cut stalls the motor. I don't use dado stacks on the RAS, because it's just too hard to control the feed rate. On the other hand, I'm completely comfortable ripping on the RAS; the presser foot on the blade guard keeps the wood firmly on the table, and if a kickback should occur (which it hasn't in over 40 years of using this tool), I always make sure the anti-kickback pawls are adjusted correctly to catch the wood. There are some cuts that just don't make sense on the RAS (like a big dado crosscut - ripping one is actually OK), but for me the biggest reason to pick the table saw is accuracy. Despite having a top-notch saw (the original DeWalt, before it got Black-and-Decker-ized), and the tools necessary to set it up with machine-shop accuracy, the relationship between the blade and the guides (table, fence) can never be as stable and rigid as a table saw. But operating safely and within its limits, I personally find the RAS to be at least as safe, and to me safer, than a table saw.
One main reason I opted for the Milwaukee M18 FUEL 8 1/4” Table Saw, as opposed to the DeWalt 20v 8 1/4” Table Saw, was that the Milwaukee ACCEPTS a Dado blade set! I procured my set of dado blades from Amazon about 6 months ago! Hallelujah! I’m all set! Thanks for your great videos, brother!
What’s your opinion then on the short stop time the Milwaukee has? Could this possible loosen the abour nut ? I just purchased my first set of dados for the Milwaukee. Surely Milwaukee know of this potential issue?
8 1/4 Table Saw??? I just "downgraded" from a Jet 10 Contractor Table Saw to a Dewalt 10" Jobsite Table Saw. They have a couple of different models. One model will not accept a Dado Stack, all the others do. The Dewalt has more power than the Jet contractor saw. I'm trying to make my life more simple. Trading the 350 pound Jet for the portable Dewalt. Then going to a Festool or Makita cordless track saw to cut down 4 x 8 panels. Cutting 100 pound 3/4" MDF on the Jet was getting crazy.
@@WallyFuller Progrip sells straight edge clamp for using a circ saw to break down large boards although in practice I just have the seller cut plywood sheets down for me.
I watch in the background as I work at my desk and your voice is like a calm wind telling me to break free and build something, Thanks man for the real info and down-to-earth commentary that makes a difference.
Hi Stumpy. In the UK we no longer have to have auto-stop blades. I bought a trade saw five years ago without an auto-stop system. Thanks for all your hard work keeping us up to date with woodworking tools and ideas.
That was one tough hombre! cross country, direct drive pedals, and on a wooden seat! Plus, back then they only had Preparation G, (hadn't gotten to "H" yet).
Back in the day, we used to use wobble saw washers so we could cut wide rebates with a single blade. I just looked them up out of curiosity and they are still available in the UK.
Be advised: Long text following! Non native speaker writing! Well, at least in Germany Dado sets are not straight out forbidden by law, just by the national work regulations for >>commercial use>in work placesabsolute nobody else
@@uglybobhere Well, in Germany any employer is mandated to make sure his/her workers have safe and appropriate tools and machinery to work with. And a safe work environment as well. Furthermore they have to make sure these things stay that way over time. In case you didn't know: Here the employer supply's the tools for the job. The employer even needs to supply the safety equipment (PSA), like gloves, safety footwear, helmets, safety goggles, etc. If you change jobs, you need to give back the tools, but your PSA is of no use to them, because of sweat and what not. If you loose a tool or it gets damaged during use, the employer needs to replace it. But don't let that fool you: If that happens too often or there is a pattern, you need to justify every replacement and explain, why tools break regularly. That can be indicative of wrong use or the wrong tool for the job. If on the other hand you fail to justify properly, there can be reprimands for that. But that's up to the employer on a case to case basis. So, it is in the best interest of the employer, that you use quality tools and that you use them appropriately. If a tool has a manufacturing defect and it hurts you as a worker, then the manufacturer has to pay, because they sold something unsafe. If the tool is damaged while in use and you don't stop using it and because of that you get injured, your employer's business insurance is on the expensive hook. The very same applies to when you as a worker modify any tool or machinery in a unsafe way and something happens, the employer's insurance has to pay for your ignorance and dumbness. But your employer's insurance fees will likely rise and he/she could be paying huge fines. So it is in the best business interest of your employer as well, that every tool or machinery you use is safe and inspected regularly. With something like "bring your own tools" like is custom in the US (at least that is the last I heard), that is not possible. Yes, safety slows down many things, but better that, than some heavy, life long injury.
@@madman6648 Felder does build what the customer wants, more or less. If a customer wants the machine to accept dado stacks, they make it so. But not everyone is able to put a Felder in their workshop.
you are the sneakiest salesman i have ever seen. i didn't know i was watching a commercial in the last three videos, until i knew i had just watched a commercial. fnckin' epic. GJ!
If the more concerning issue was the potential of the blades coming off the arbor I'd say something like a retractable arm that can be placed at the end of the arbor, kinda like the tail stock on a lathe could be made to ensure blades could never just fly off.
@@calstatelaalproductions2358 Was kinda my first thought but I assume someone figured it would be an extra peice or small part that people could easily lose, forget or whatever and wouldn't ensure safety. Of course I'm only guessing at the logic but I figure something like I'm thinking of could be integrated with an interlock of the power switch and be a permanent fixture that would not be a very expensive add to the overall cost and perhaps could have a secondary function of being able to jam or force into the arbor as an added breaking system.
An important note. The rules of blade guard and stop-time is only applicable in commercial environments as part of work-safety rules. As a private person you are free to remove the whole table and use the saw for free hand sculpting if you want to. We even include the free ambulance ride you are going to need :). So we are sort of free here as well, but not free to exploit workers :)
I use to work in a furniture factory. One of the guys did a plunge cut with a dado blade and started to far forward. So he pulled it back about 1/4" and the piece shot back wards and his fingers went into the blades. Since then I am alot more cautious about them.
Imagine this solution to the European dado problem: an arbor that is 1/2 inch longer than standard. It is threaded in the normal way, but the 1/2" on the end is a of slightly lesser diameter than the rest of the arbor and it is threaded in the opposite direction. Then, when you install a dado set, you secure it with the normal nut, but in addition to that, you lock it with an oppositely threaded nut on the narrower last 1/2. The lock nut can have a wide flange that applies friction to the regular nut. It wouldn't be needed at all with a single blade. Then, it wouldn't matter how quickly the blades stopped and you wouldn't need a special guard. The two-diameter arbor and its locking nut could be standardized so as not to require special or additional purchases.
In general, I find dado cuts to be safer than standard cuts. The blade is rarely more than a half inch above the table, and it is completely covered by the work piece so it is easier to apply firm pressure down and into the fence.
Nice discussion. I recently updated my Delta Unisaw I ordered new 20 years ago. I replaced the stock guard/splitter with the Shark Guard manual riving knife/splitter dust collection guard. I also inherited a Delta 1.5hp dust collector and followed your upgrade recommendations for the Wyn pleated filter and using a 5gal bucket with small clamps to channel the dust into an easy to dispose of trashbag. After sealing up the Unisaw cabinet some to force the air from the cabinet dust port to pass by the blade and having another 4 inch port connected to the Shark Guard, this saw area now stays fairly clean for such a low power dust collector. The old saws don’t support the auto riving knives, so this Shark Guard option is a nice upgrade and much easier to deal with than the stock guard.
I have been lucky, when my father upgraded he gave me his 35 year old moa Shan TSC table saw with a nice long arbour, originally supplied with a wobble blade (now that's a scary piece) I got a diablo set from the US because that blades "can't be sold in Ireland" and 3 days after my set arrived, my local tool store had one but it wasn't on the shelf, it sits between the machines on the showroom floor. I love mine it was scary at first but in my opinion now it's no more scary than a 12" rip blade
I have 2 sets of calibrated wobble washers, that are, at least, 25 years old. My DaDo set is about the same age. Have cut a lot of Teak with them, boatbuilding.
I was working in my shop with my nephew, helping him with a project. When I set up table saw with my dado blades, his eyes lit up so much, you'd have thought he just saw a centerfold for the first time.
I got a new Harvey table saw from Woodford Tooling a few years ago here in the UK and was surprised to be given the option of a longer arbor to take a dado stack, as i thought they were illegal here. Apparently not!
@@toadamine I bought the lumberjack 10” table saw. It’s the uk version of a rigid hybrid. Cast iron top and it takes a 5/8” bore dado stack. It’s a good machine,I haven’t bought a dado stack yet. I will buy one soon.
Half the time I watch your videos I just thing man, he seems like a really chill and mentally stable guy 🤣. Seems to be a trait of woodworkers, I’m in being honest. There’s something very zen about it all.
@@patrickd9551 Yeah, it seems that the only countries that continue to cling to the "customary units" are the countries that have visited the moon. It's a lonely place to be.
@@MyGrowthRings ah yes.... because of the space race that was started by metric loving russia ;) throw enough dollars and you win a race that you didn't start nor invent. Also didn't you guys blow up a 125 million dollar mars orbiter due to customary habits? Just having the ability to throw imaginary money units at a problem does it justify customary units. But how are you liking those 2L coke bottles or those 5.8L hemi motors? Or the fact that Ford switched to metric because it saved a (metric) ton of space and money. Shall we continue jabbing? ;)
I sure as heck enjoyed this vlog. As a Viet Nam veteran I applaud your effort to achieve world peace. I am addicted to wood working in spite of all the disabilities that stupid war left me with. Keep this up Stumpy and I will call off all those biting flies in the upper peninsula.
I'm British, living in China and watching your channel. Anyone who has a problem with what you post and how you speak is just narrow-minded. Many thanks for such great and informative content!
Personally I use a router to cut rebates in boards. As you will well know it can be done freehand with a router and the jig that comes with even the cheapest routers or better with a router mounted in a table using the fence. I simply don't cut enough Dado's or rebates to justify using a dado stack. You could also use an old school; rebate plane, or routing plane. You can keep your spinning stacks of death. ;-)
Only took him 72 days on that silly bike. You didn't mention that 1/2 that time was spent just trying to get up on the damn thing. My current Table Saw is a dynamite little Dewalt. It's small, but packs a pretty good punch, AND I can dial the fence, which I love.....but yeah, the arbor is too short for any Dado. I spend much more time either making lots of passes (Did I mention the dial a fence option it has?) or my router depending on what's going on. Thanks as always sir. Amazing insight once again.
@@jamessimon7292 Interesting. I don't think that model was available when I bought mine. That was the only thing holding me back from buying the DW735.....I bought it anyways. ;-)
@@jamessimon7292 Well hell. Just went and looked through the differences between your saw and mine. Now I wish I had waited a year or two....guess it's something to put on my XMAS list.... Pretty much the same EXACT same saw, except you can Dado and slightly faster blade speed.
Here in Canada, there’s no issue getting saws with a long arbor and dado sets. I originally had a wobble blade, but after using a proper dado set, I’d never go back to one of those wobble blades. Before then, I used my router with a fence, but I feel much safer using a dado set than using the router to do it.
Subscribed! Your videos are super educational. I'm a woodworking instructor myself and I find it really useful to watch videos like this, so that I know how to explain certain woodworking concepts better without having to demonstrate it due to safety reason in the workshop. Thank you!
The short fence does eliminate some problems. I've added auxiliary short fences to my table saw fence when ripping long boards. It stops the issues of the blade trying to grab the board at the end of the cut. I may have explained it poorly but the safety aspect was readily apparent when I was ripping the tongues and grooves off of some lumber. I was doing that because I used the same lumber for the ceiling and walls of a very casual room. I wanted the T&G look on the ceiling but a shiplap look on the walls.
I found that the short fence never gave me the confidence that there was no risk of the wood pivoting at it's far end. Also, when ripping long lengths I never liked the fact that I either had to sacrifice the start of the fence placed at the edge of the table, thus allowing a nice long run-in into the saw blade or have little fence beyond the blade supporting the length of wood. I've had a life working with machinery, but could never see how the short fence affords greater safety when ripping. It was explained at the school that the fence should placed so the end extends no further than the centre of the saw blade. It creeped me out to be completely honest. I avoided using the table saw and preferred using the band, until I kitted out my own shop. I've just got a shop built mdf full length fence attached to the extruded alu fence and it has yet to do me wrong. I accept that if the user doesn't check for fence-blade-mitre slot alignment then it could cause pinch, but I feel you can nit pick those types of potentials with any machine or power tool and their myriad set ups.
I'm now 66 and started woodworking at 15 we never had dado sets in our machine shop we always used a wobble saw! had gradient markings on the collars in 16ths cut grooves and rebates just fine! Ive use a wobble saw in my workshop even now, I also love cycling and am out on my bike at any time i can get! I've just retired so hopfully will get out more now! In 1990 i left the UK and cycled to Australia 2 years, 26 countries, and 17000 kilometres later i arrived in Sydney, as fit as a fiddle!! ha! ha! crazy days!!!
Thanks for that. We Europeans actually appreciate dado stacks and use them in private workshops.A lot of criticism comes from professional woodworkers who can't use them for insurance reasons. In fact I prefer the 5/8" arbor as I can use all kinds of American tools like the mitre fold dado blade. Enjoy the vacation !
I'm European and I never thought about that "stop time"... That's a good point. I will still go on with the router table. But it's a shame that CMT that is a premium Italian company builds dado sets and we can't use them!
Stop time is a thing I really appreciate too if I'm being honest. 10 seconds is a reasonable number, but how long does a free spinning blade take to halt? That must take at least half a minute. I wouldn't want that to be honest. At least some good things come from Brussels _sigh_ And I don't mind the router table that much either if you have good quality carbide bits.
@@patrickd9551 Ten seconds seems absurdly long. My DeWalt table saw has an electric brake that stops in about 1/2 a second. However, my Makita circular saw is faster yet, but jumps uncomfortably as the brake engages.
I live and Scotland and wanted a dado table saw so i went old, 50 years old. Then ordered a dado set from the US. And it works perfect. Only needed a new set of motor bearings a bit of time to get it running perfect.
In the UK they aren't actually banned. Axminster tools sell a table saw and dado set for it. The guard doesn't need to be removed as its an overhead one. I don't have a table saw currently but I am envious of your American saws with dado stacks
Yeah, the stack is available in the UK, but you have to look around to find a saw that will accommodate one and stack blades are not easily available. And as noted here, get ready to empty your wallet.
There is a small, family owned shop that makes a product called "Sharkguard". You should check it out. Blade guard with riving knife included as a part of the assembly. Ronnie is always open to suggestions on improvements. A quick internet search will pop up the website.
I think some people in the UK think we can’t get dado sets here. Just so people know, the Axminster AT254lts and AT254ts both take dado stacks and they also sell dado stacks.
I’m in the Uk and solved the problem of short arbors by purchasing a really old Wadkin table saw which was made in 1960. It’s built like a tank and easily manages the dado set I ordered from USA. Enjoyed your video, thanks.
Same here, in Russia. Not sure they're banned here, though. I think there are some models from China on the market that accepts dados disks. The major brands don't.
Don't know where you're from but you can get dados in the UK, there's just not many table saws that actually take them. I can fit them on my table saw but choose not to
I agree with the floating blade guard. My blade guard is more dangerous than not using one at all. Hopefully I won’t regret that someday. And thanks for the humor!!!
Honestly, just build a floating guard, and make the nut on the shaft a locking one by one of many different means. I suggest a set of washers and a locking pin. Easy and lazy.
I am from Europe. My solution: I am using "groove blade" Pilana SK 92 180x6,0/3,5x30 16z FZ. Width 6mm, diameter 180mm (smaller than original 250mm blades for my Bosch saw). Perfect for 6mm box joint, still usable for wider cuts with multiple passes.
Issues with the metric system? All you need to remember is that there are only 10 types of people in the world. Those who understand the binary system, and those who don’t.
At the time he made his ride, my grandfather was told to leave northeast Minnesota for his safety as the Sioux and Chippewa were in conflict. He returned to Michigan until 1902.
I wonder if the Euro's view us like we view those videos from SE Asia where the guys are using tools with NO guards all day long with sawdust/chips flying everywhere, no protective equipment and fingers agonizingly close to spinning metal. Those make me cringe even if the results are often beautiful. Danger close...Thanks again for an entertaining and educational vid.
I saw Buddhist monks in Laos, on string tied bamboo scaffolding, welding… PPE? … hard hat, well a straw hat! … steel toe caps? Well flip flops!… eye protection?… knock off ray bans! Respirator? A cigarette! But the did have Buddha looking after them!
I have a 6" Systematic set. Very apprehensive when I first used it, being worried about the 2 tooth blades. Once I used it, I realised that wasn't an issue. Absolutely love it.
I live in Greece now, I bought an antique INCA tablesaw, with all sorts of equipment.. boxes of it. in original boxes.. among which some 70's/80's Dado stacks, but also "routing-blades" (no idea what they are called, but they look frikking scary, with gouges sticking out and all.. )never used it, but they cut decorative edges on wood. Im planning on using the dado-stack once.. but i never used it before.. and always managed fine.
Thanks for sharing with us James, enjoyed your video and information. Also the building in the background was great. Keep up the good work and videos. Fred.
From Denmark. I recently acquired a Dewalt 7294 SQ jobsite saw. It has an arbor that will hold a dado set. I can buy a dado set from several Danish companies. However, they are ridiculously expensive but available. So, I don’t think it is illegal, unless your saw can’t stop in 10 sec. I can’t speak for other European countries but it is possible for Danes to hurt themselves on dado blades, if they really want to. I am going to Michigan in September and I think I will bring back a DeWalt dado set, I am such a rebel. 😊
The other day I saw someone commenting about those eggs, saying it's illegal to have something inedible inside something edible. I wonder what that guy thinks of cherry pits?
@@StumpyNubs shut up ..... If those numbnuts in Brussels hear about pits inside fruits I'm sure they will find a way to ban those to save children or something. But lets face it. Every country has it's fair share of ruling idiots and equally stupid laws. (I could poke at the states, but it's not fair to verbally abuse the elderly. I was raised better)
Hi Stumpy. As you also say in your video, dado’s are not banned in Europe. Felder fx. has solved the problem with braking the heavy blades to a full stop in seconds. There are just pre-drilled some holes in all their blades including their dado stack and pins from the arbor that fits the holes. The holes also helps aligning the dadostack, so the tooths are properly positioned to each other. Axminster also have dadoblades for some of their saws. However many europeans seems to prefer routers etc
I had not realized what a “privilege” it was that I’ve had for the past 50 years: my Delta Rockwell table saw has a Bieasemeyer rip fence and a standard American arbor that accepts my dado set. And I still have all my body parts-except my appendix-which was removed without using my table saw!
I was using an unguarded dado set on a saw with no brake in 1980 and my shop teacher had a foolproof way to ensure safe operation. If you did anything unsafe he would vigorously apply a large wooden paddle to tender areas until the message that safety was important became clear.
I was told by one of my university professor "if you want to get really rich, just invent a table saw guard that doesn't suck" one of those 'it's a joke, but it's true' kind of statements
Hi from the grim UK. I know this video is 8 months old but , as a metal machinist who wants to learn more about working with wood (I'm renovating my 17th century cottage) these videos are really interesting and useful. Oh, and it's pronounced AL U MIN IUM 🤣😂🤣
I'm European; I like the imperial system, especially fractions. Much easier to use to design things with than metric, which is an arbitrary piece of nonsense, quite literally. The metre was supposed to be something like 1/1000th of one second of arc at the equator, only the French got the calculation wrong and it isn't even that. It's a nuisance size, whereas feet are conveniently human-sized, and fractions are extremely useful too.
12 inches in a foot, 3 feet in a yard, 22 feet in a chain, who knows how many in a furlong, 1760 yards in a mile, 4400 square yards in an acre. It is all so logical. I was raised on imperial and then the country went metric. Good move. Join the rest of the world and see the advantages.
@@martinpammenter9668 I am unlikely to make anything that is a chain, furlong or mile long at my workbench. For woodwork, and day to day life, feet and inches and fractions are simply better.
If they had a longer arbor on the Euro saws, they could jam nut the dado stack. They could also add a selector that puts the saw into a dado mode that doesn't as aggressively brake the motor, or changes the braking system to ramp up braking force over time, instead of all at once, on power down. If they're still worried, combine the alternate braking with the dado stack being secured with the arbor nut and a jam nut. Another option is a keyed washer design that would prevent the dado stack from loosening the arbor nut, and you could always add a jam nut.
For many years I had a dado stack on my model 77 worm drive with a modified guard and table for cutting seat cuts in rafters. I also had a 32" blade on an old all metal Skill Saw that originally had a 10" blade on it with modified table and guard for cutting head cuts on rafters and cutting beams. They where both stolen along with all the rest of my tools back in the 90's never to be seen again. Both saws where very dangerous in the wrong hands and I hope the person that stole them from me found that out the hard way.
@@StumpyNubs I just ordered a Harvey, the 2HP 36” model. In the video, the Harvey was behind the SawStop, and it was working great as an outfeed. I was just picking.
I do love the braking on the saw. It cuts way back on the amount of time I have to wait for the saw to spin down. I have a Felder saw with grooving blades. It's not the same as our dado stack, though. It uses shims and is closer to shaper tooling in implementation. Same idea, different implementation. The brake has no problem spinning it down despite the weight. They also use two pins to keep blades from spinning off the arbor. Edit: I also use a floating blade guard. It's much more convenient vs the one it came with.
As I come from Scotland. UK. Our machines only come with a single blade. But by taking my time and having patients I get there.I also use my router but take of a little bit at a time just like you told us and showed us.keep up the good work all the best to you and your team.
Great vlog, dude! 😊 I don't think dado sets are an issue here in Brazil, but they're definitely not common... Some table saws accept them, some don't... But it's hard to find them and they can be as expensive as a table saw itself here. 😬 But anyway, I'm doing woodworking for fun, so... No issues there. 😊 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Very informative video, thank you. A really good Stumpy Nubs video would be " How to avoid Kickback with Dado Blades. I have never found one addressing the subject. I had kickback (three separate times in one project) from the dado blade when cutting 3/4" wide x 3/8 deep dados in a 3/4 thick Birch Plywood panel 18" X 22". The dado cut caused the board to rattle, up and down, and eventually a tooth caught it and sent it reeling across the top of the blade stack, back towards me. I used a top pressure feather board, same thing happened. You can see in Video at 4:58 the extreme downward pressure being applied by the left hand while feeding the piece. The third run, (and third piece of plywood - the others had run across the top of the blade, back at me, and were ruined) the rattling board ripped past the top pressure feather board, over the top of the dado and back at me. The root cause was likely left hand pressure toward the fence was inadequate as was the pressure on the top of the board as it was being feed into the Dado monster. Using your hands to put that much force against a board to keep it from rattling up on the blade presents a whole other set of potential hazards (think; using a dull knife for carving). Look again at the Video at 4:58 and see the white knuckled pressure required while pushing that panel through.. Dado was of mid-tier cost/ quality, was sharp and had very little use (and was pitch free). I use a router and dado guide now unless its a tenon. Dado kickbacks were not a rare occurrence in my shop; today the use of a dado is.
The last piece to the puzzle on ur solution for the dado debate is make something like the jessem hold down rollers a standard feature on all saw fences. Fixes kick back risk and helps hold parts truer on the fence
Before I saw this video, I'd always assumed that Dado saws were the same as what I call "wobble saws. I'm in the UK and wasn't at all surprised that there seemed to be some kind of ban on them. However, thanks to this video, I now know the difference. A quick check shows me that neither is actually banned in the UK. I used to be a woodturner, but lack of space means I've never owned a table saw. Wobble saws just remind me of the guys with missing fingers from the boatyards near where I used to live, even though their losses were just due to conventional table saws.
Years ago I was using a dado blade on a table saw to make wine glass holders out of 1 x 4 pine boards about 30" long, (following all safety procedures). Everything was going swell for the first half a dozen pieces and then the dado blade caught on a knot and shot the board about 25 feet across the room and into a concrete block wall. Upon striking the wall the board shattered. Ever since then I use a router rather than a dado blade.
A dado set was involved in the only memorable table saw incident I’ve had. I was cutting too deeply, and the blade grabbed the wood and chucked it about 20 feet through a wall. I learned more respect for woodworking/spearchucking/bodymangling tools that day.
Thank god, no one here in Canada has suggested getting rid of dado sets. I never knew anyone would have an objection to them. Thanks for the enlightenment.
I'm in Europe. I bought a table saw with a long enough arbor from Germany and a dado set from Italy (OrangeTools). No problem. So there's the other solution to using a dado set: buy a Felder table saw. They're made to work with a dado set and have all the regulatory safety systems built-in. 😉
I know I am going to get flamed for saying this, but I keep my dado blades on my Radial Arm Saw. I've been doing this since the 70's. So far, so good. I still have all my digits and I am 73. I keep them plenty sharp and change them out when they start dulling out.
@@pinkerbot Nope...while not using a dado head, I had an accident cutting a finger and thumb on a table saw that required two surgeries and a skin graft. Accidents happen to professionals as well...
@@pinkerbot we all have accidents but carelessness and stupidity up the odds. Speaking for myself looking back most accidents I have had were due to me doing something Stupid🙃 cutting corners reaching too far or getting into a hurry. One thing about accidents you won't forget the lesson they teach but it's a hard lesson.
Safety is priority. This vid makes you think. I think of the dado sets I've used over the years and wonder how I got through without a single injury. I used a product called a "wobble blade" and think of the multiple mishaps that could have happened.
Please send me a dado stack 🙏🙏🙏...but why do you complicate work with fractions 🤔🤔....we also have rabbits in the old country 🐰🐇👍🤣🤣keep up the good work from across 2 ponds 👍😊
why do you still use 360 degrees in a circle and not 10. why do we all use seconds, minutes, and hours? seems so old fashioned. obviously we should be using the speed of a red laser light in a vacuum. lets be precise.
I’ve had boards kicked back at me in two occasions, both were cutting a dato. Not saying cutting a dato is too dangerous, inexperience had a lot to do with it as well. But im not sure kickback happens less with non though cuts
I've had kickbacks happen several times, but only with through-cuts. I've not made as many dado cuts, but the kickbacks happened when the wood I was through-cutting pinched the blade, or less commonly, when the blade was dull, and the piece near the fence was small, and wedged against the blade.
@@FLPhotoCatcher Right, that's the way it's usually described. But if you cut a dado and accidentally twist the board I can see how it could still get pinched in the rear. Cove cutting makes me really nervous.
We have a stacked dado set in our SawStop at the high school wood shop in Canada. It sure feels safer than our router table, especially since the exposed blade on the router has no failsafe to stop the blade on skin contact like our table saw does. A side note - during orientation I often ask the students if the saws know the difference between a finger and a board, but only when discussing our band saw or compound mitre saw. I don't want them to think all saws have the ability to stop themselves quicker than you can lose a finger.
