In the early 90s, I worked in a stamping factory in Detroit that used 6x8 end-cut blocks for flooring. They were indestructible, holding 150 ton molds. Probably 80 years old then. We had the floor cleaned and sealed - ended up being the most beautiful floor I've ever seen.
Жаль труд, через пол года будет напрастным, дерево расширяется и сужается зимой и летом на каждые 100мм 1мм дыхания, следовательно на 3000мм это будет 30мм, все порвёт и треснет, потом встанет дыбом, это я как опытный столяр заявляю.
@@pudovkin_mebel ну, во-первых, скорее всего, использовались сухие бруски, а не естественной влажности, а во-вторых, они ведь всё это склеили клеем с опилками, так что теперь это, считай, монолит, главное по краям оставить зазоры на расширение.
It was used for high traffic areas like workshops and such for over a century. It's usually much thicker, so it takes quite some time to deteriorate even if it's not taken good care of. It's warmer than concrete or stone floor and things don't break that easily when they drop down on it. It doesn't get as slippery as woodflooring that's layed lengthwise bc the softer part of the rings wears down quicker and gives kind of a rippled texture. There were horse stables with this kind of flooring!
@@nagel133 when your foundation shifts, everything will crack eventually (except for carpet, which is going to look shitty in a workshop or stable for other reasons 🤷🏼♀️
Yes in my living room, it's actually intended for wood workshops, where you can drive with heavy carts on it. In Germany we call it Stirnholz Parkett, and it's very resistant
@@MrJimme2003 In the ones Ive seen, concrete but they use endgrain lengths of wood that are like 12 inches deep. Great for machine shops because you can drop something expensive and it wont break. when the floor gets damaged just rip the section out and replace
@@BloopTube what about machine oils and coolant? Id imagine this would soften up the wood very quickly, but obviously if it works I am missing something. Also I assume the larger machines would need large metal foot pads so that they don't sink into the wood over time and warp the bed of the machine.
Yes. My grandfather was a carpenter. His workshop flor was made from 10 x 10 x 20 cm wood blogs. Even in winter time the floor was well insulated. And it was looking stunning.
Endgrain is remarkably strong, because the entire length of the fibers are taking the compression, rather than just one spot along the side--wood has better compression strength when approached from the endgrain than it does from along the grain. Additionally, experiments with wooden cutting boards have shown that wood can actually absorb and--after about half an hour--terminate bacteria, etc...but that endgrain cutting surfaces do it better than along the grain. Butchers throughout time knew that endgrain chopping blocks kept their meat cleaving efforts healthier and fresher for a very long time, but up until the late 1990s or early 2000s when the studies were done, nobody knew why. So while technically that plastic cutting board is more sterile if you clean it right away...if you don't *really* clean into the gouges left by all that cleaning, any bacteria trapped in there with food particles can fester and grow...but the grain of wood is a death trap. When you clean a cutting board right away, the uppermost surfaces that get swabbed to try to detect bacterial presence may show bacteria on a wooden surface and none on a plastic surface...but it's not swabbing into the cuts and scratches. Plastic cuts do not reseal, so they remain exposed and can harbor colonies. But funny enough, both side grain and end grain does close back up...and both destroy the bacteria after half an hour or so (faster for end grain). This seeming disparity *right after* a board is used is why people think plastic is 'better" for a cutting surface. It's good, but it's not *perfect.* Same with wood: it is *also* still good good, even if it isn't perfect. Now, for a commercial kitchen requiring a cutting surface to be constantly in use, yeah, go with plastic or whatever. The main advantage is that you can wash it with a sterilizing agent (weak solution of bleach, etc), and then wipe it off X number of seconds later to rinse away any lingering residues. But if you're cooking at home, with time (and washings) between uses? Don't be afraid of wood! (Or bamboo, which is technically a grass, but still holds the same properties.)
Thank you for all these details ! I am interested because I was searching information about food spoon in wood, to cook . I was wondering it is really a good idea, because I see that the wood has cracks, and it seems to be good places for bacteria to grow! (Sorry, english is not my first language)
Yes, this kind of floor is easy to find in Argentina. We call it "parquet" As I read the comments, some say it is common in Europe, too... So that's probably where we inherit it from (architecture in my country is mainly of French, Italian and Spanish styles)
US parquet looks nothing like that. This is gorgeous and so is our style of parquet. Matter of taste to pattern but this is stunning. The only negative is the raised floor. Unless basement, we do everything at level
I worked at Ford Twin Cities Assembly in the late '70's and we had end grain flooring throughout the plant. That plant was opened in 1925 and operated until 2011.
@dazenguile4215 like chick's truck, sometimes they put a sticker of the plant of manufacture (newer Expeditions and Navigators will have a Kentucky Truck Plant sticker), but all cars have the assembly location on the original MSRP sticker, my Fusion was made in Hermosillo, Mexico
It didn't used to get that humid in Germany. Might change with climate change. Our neighbor has this in their house (kitchen) and it keeps cracking. They have filled the cracks a couple of times already.
We used oak board ends for the clubhouse of apartments we built. Installed similar to this, underlayment, ends of oak pieces, sanding, cork dust for grout, three days of staining and sealing and it is tough as nails.
Yes, the Denver Art Museum. I was involved in the construction of that building in the early 2000s and had to take special consideration, installing sliding door tracks to accommodate the thickness of the floor
I sold the Worthwood end grain flooring for the Denver Art Museum. Look up Oregon Lumber Co. Worthwood solid end grain flooring if anyone is interested in this flooring.
It's actually common in machine shops. They are usually about 3.5 inches thick. Machine shops use this because if you drop a die section or a cutting tool on a concrete floor. It will be damaged. Also the wood will absorb oils and not be slippery like concrete.
WWII era buildings now warehouses that could have been for anything in the day, had 6"X6"X6" end grain red oak floors. Had to have been 80,000 square feet.
I have seen many floors in my time. This appears to be yet another floor that I have now seen. Truly one of the all-time floors. You know, I wanted to be a marine biologist when I was a kid. Funny how time slips away from you.
Sure are thirsty, especially underneath where he didn't seal. It might even swell enough to buckle the floor plates and warp the wall. Cracks in the plaster ? Mabye. Who cares, looks like shit.
The process is utterly brutal on the back. You can only do this for about ten years, twenty for the real beasts. Any longer and the second half of your life really sucks, especially if you’re still doing this in your 40’s. This is strictly a young man’s job unless longevity ain’t your jam.
My grandpa owned a machine shop... He took railroad ties on end and placed them into the ground, on end... If one gets damaged you pull it out and slide in a new one... Problem is he built in 1930's and those boards were available then😅. But it looked kinda similar... Only super dark from the creosote of the timbers.... But i will always remember the smell of that old shop... Diesel, dirt, and machine oil... Man i miss that ol man...
Similar feelings dude. Grandpa was a man's man and was so capable. Hands like huge rouge gloves and wrinkles deeper than I have seen on most but I remember hugging him and I miss it.
I love this. Dont care what anyone says ,I'd have this in every room. With dogs, grandkids, and their friends and people that are messy. Oh yeah, perfect and beautiful
My apartment in Germany had a floor like that - brand new construction. While beautiful, it was porous and easily scratched. Thankfully I kept my security deposit but it was a challenge! 😅
Depends on a wood. Mine is harder and looks very good. At my parents house, we had a floor that got scratched and deformed by dalmatians nails... Maybe we should have use some glass like rockhard finish on it. It looks terrible to this day :D
Unless you hardcore seal the surface with a few layers of epoxy, the vertical cut of this wood will suck stains like nobody's business. This is due to the intact sclerenchyma structure of the wood, which is the trees natural transport system for water and nutrients.
I've seen this in a few yoga studios and in shops. The shops i understood were because of dropping tooling and the ease of replacement of damaged sections. As well as the surface being porous, soaks up the oils and prevents slips. Seemed to work pretty good compared to all these epoxy or rubber toppers that rot or crumble.
Когда мой отец работал в столярке он заказывал обрезки на дрова. Собственно показанное в видео это обрезки склеек щитов мебельных. Я тоже подобный пол делал. В общем со временем они расклеятся и начнут вываливаться по одному кубику. У паркета не просто так же шип-паз есть.
Такой пол в торец делают в расчёт на сильный износ и проходимость в помещении. Думаю если доска сухая и есть люфт с припуском на расширение будет очень долго служить
@@caym4nz109 В том то и дело что думать можно всякое. А вот знать может не каждый, вернее знать может не только лишь каждый , мало кто вообще может это знать. :)) Нет там никакого расчета на износ. Обычная паркетина дубовая веками лежит, наверняка вообще есть паркет который износился или изнасиловался. И вообще там дело не в зазорах расширении или клеях. Вся суть в том что это по сути кубики 40х40х20 склеенные, пусть даже и на микрошип. Они начнут расклеиваться между собой и вываливаться. У меня например лежал больший кубик 80х80х30. Они сыпятся в геометрической прогрессии. И только потом и заботы что ходить и пяткой вбивать их назад.
Decoupling membrane, wood tiles, sealer. The only issue I see is did you really leave space for expansion? It should expand a lot with those thick pieces. Looks damn good
@@rachelspear938it looks like you could make them easily if you have a chopsaw/mitersaw/tablesaw. Cut framing framing lumber pieces in equal increments and join them together with wood glue and cut joints or use dowels… I’m sure there’s a video or two out there you could learn from. Otherwise call a flooring company and ask them how if they know where to get end grain flooring material
Yes, an end grain floor. They've been around for hundreds of years. In London we used to do the streets with wood end grain. Really common in old workshops.
In the USA it’s 99% plank wood flooring and so little parquet and I’ve never seen an end grain floor since I’ve been in the trades since the 90’s. Nice to see this work being done in other areas.
It's called parquetry flooring and has been around for centuries. It's not used much anymore as it is very labour intensive but can be found in old building...and new one like this.
Where I'm from parquet is common as long as home is bit more expensive, as it's overall more long lasting flooring. And it just look good. Though mostly it's bought in easy to assemble and already finished blocks that you put together like lego. Just all the other floor types.
...really-really nice work done here, folks. That's a lot of work that went into this beautiful floor. Respect to you and your entire crew on this project. This was some absolutely beautiful work done here in this video. Thank you for sharing this fine work with RU-vid. Please be well. 🤔
Yup in a machine shop that was inside an automotive R&D building in Michigan. But somewhere before I worked there there was a coat of black paint overtop of it. I’d like to know why they painted over it.
