HDZero Goggles - Analog vs HDZero Video 

I'm glad you think so! I feel like a lot of the people who talk about the HDZero breakup are too used to Analog or DJI, and don't take the time to get used to it.

@KamiHobbies I agree. Once you get used to it it's kinda like a screen door effect and you sort of see past it. Like you said, every 1/60th of a second the break up patter is different per frame so essentially in the course on average of 3 to 5 frames you're seeing most of the image unless the breakup is at the very limits where you're about to completely rainbow out. On dji, by this point I would be getting latency spikes and frame stutter.

Thank you so much! I really appreciate it.

Thanks! Yeah the little 1S toothpicks are amazingly fun, especially considering how small and light they are. They're also nice if you want to fly at a park because they're super quiet and so small that everyone will just assume they're a toy, rather than some spy drone or something.

You learn something new everyday. We were all newbs once.😏

Thank you so much! I'll keep it up!

Same!

I've never actually tried a 2S or 3S Toothpick, so I am definitely making assumptions here, but I think I'd prefer 1S. There are a couple reasons for that - first is that the batteries are extremely cheap, and super easy to deal with. For 1S, there are a bunch of chargers on the market that can charge 6 1S packs at a time, so you can basically fly constantly if you want, and you don't really need to plan out charging. 1S toothpicks are also so light that I'm not even really worried about running to a window or car, and it's nice to have that peace of mind. The 1S toothpicks are also awesome on my property - I live on basically 1/4 acre, and it's just the right size for a 1S Toothpick. Anything faster can be difficult to fly in such a tight area, and anything slower would likely be a lot less fun. And finally, because of the light weight and low motor torque, the props rarely get damaged (I've flown the same set of props for several months, literally over 200 flights, and at least 80 crashes - it's crazy), and the frames are super hard to damage too. I use the standard FPVCycle babytooth frame (I think 2mm?) and it's basically a tank. I've only had minor delamination on one arm of one frame (I have 3 currently flyable and one unbuilt), and about 30 seconds with some super glue fixed it right up and has had it flying like new for about 3 months now. TL;DR: the light weight means they very rarely break frames, even in big crashes. The low motor torque means that props last a very long time. Anything on 2S or 3S would be much more likely to break because it's heavier and the motors are more powerful. 1S batteries are super cheap, and the 6 port 1S chargers mean you can fly constantly even without charging all your batteries the night before so they're awesome for flying any time the mood hits you.

I've got a 3" 1s I really like as well. Recently I tried some 2.5" tri-blades on it with a 2s and its such a little beast with that config. The 1s is floaty which I love for cruising, and the 2s just rips. Definitely more freestyle capable if you're into that sort of flying. (Same PIDs btw)

HDZero definitely does break up in the same places as analog - that's fair. I'd say I'm quite comfortable flying at the edge of range with HDZero - the main reason I'm staying in the front of my property (which is closer to me) is that I think the front is more fun to fly around. Additionally, for whatever reason if I fly around the back yard, my dog freaks out because he wants to go chase the quad, but he's nowhere near as bothered if I fly in the front. HDZero seems to get slightly better range on a watt for watt basis than analog, it's just that you can get a much more powerful analog video transmitter in any given size/weight than you can HDZero right now.

I prefer 4:3 as well. Really the only reason this is in 16:9 is that I was messing around with aspect ratio a little while ago and forgot to change it back!

@@KamiHobbies - honestly interested in this subject. Can you elaborate as to why so many people love 4:3 over 16:9 when it comes to FPV camera feed? Is it easier to fly that way? I'm thinking there should be more information squeezed into 4:3 (full sensor coverage), but what's bugging me, is those black bars on the sides. EDIT: you've just earned subscriber #7, me :)

@@Seii-FPV 16x9 has more field of view to the left and right at the expense of top to bottom. 4x3 is more square giving similar side and up/down field of view. Since we fly in 3D space, fov in both directions is generally preferred.

@@Seii-FPV awesome, thank you so much! I think the preference for 4:3 vs 16:9 is main affected by camera choice. On a 4:3 camera, if you have a 16:9 image in the goggles you are losing quite a bit of the top and bottom of the image. On a 16:9 camera with 4:3 in the goggles all you're doing is losing some of the sides of the image, which isn't great either. So ideally, you'll use the same aspect ratio in the goggles as whatever is on the camera. I think the reason a lot of people prefer to fly 4:3 (outside of trying to match the camera sensor) is that when flying FPV, the sides of the image generally are much less important than the top and bottom. Because the speed of a quad is determined entirely by how far from level it is, the more vertical space you have in your image, the wider your speed envelope can be while still being able to see where you're going. Additionally, because what's ahead of you is generally more important than what's to the side, a 4:3 image can be less distracting since you can't really look to the sides in the first place. Those are the main reasons I can think of anyway - maybe it would be worth a video?

@@KamiHobbies - thank you for your thorough explanation! Yes, it totally makes sense. The only distracting thing are those vertical black bars on the sides, only because most of the screens are 16:9 now. There is simply no workaround for that. One solution would be to have goggles dynamically stretch (non-linear) as GoPro does with that SuperWide resolution does... But then just like you said, movements and the speed of the movements would not be proportional to what's really happening when we fly. Could also make us even little more dizzy. It would look like in the movies when they simulate drunk people vision kind-off. I've asked this question because I love 16:9, but for some reason when I was flying my old BetaFPV85x HD I felt million times more comfortable flying 4:3. And was not able to figure out the reasoning behind it. This explains a lot. Thank you so much, greatly appreciated!

Analog is an interesting subject in this regard. It's definitely flyable - people have been flying analog for years at this point, and I wouldn't say that DJI/Walksnail have allowed people to do anything new other than flying through branches more confidently. The distortion of analog definitely takes some getting used to, but it's not uncomfortable by any means once you've been flying it for a while. DJI/Walksnail are the easiest to get used to out of the 4 main video systems used today. I just couldn't get used to the latency personally. The interference definitely doesn't help with flying, but it doesn't really make it harder either - once you get used to it. And the RapidFire/Fusion modules made a huge difference in the quality of analog video feeds. So ultimately, it's really just a matter of getting used to it.

look up some of MR steeles DRV flights. the man can fly through a blizzard of fuzz and still rip lol

@KamiHobbies I guess it's like going sight seeing with a bag over your head. As long as you can make out most of the shapes, you can guess the rest.

Then you probably will miss out. It's completely worth the price. I switched to DJI 03 and it's much better quality and less breakup hdzero

That's certainly a fair assessment. I would say that in person, it's more than a 10-20% quality increase, but that's subjective and therefore not that useful. The HDZero video transmitters are bigger, more expensive and unless consideration is given to how they're mounted, more delicate. That's very true. To me, the quality and super low latency make it worth it, but it is definitely not the system for everyone. Yes - the only reason we haven't seen a glut of HDZero products is because they have a small user base compared to analog or DJI or Walksnail. I'm not sure what you mean by expensive licenses though? As far as I'm aware, if you're a 3rd party company that wants to make an HDZero compatible product, you just need to buy the actual Divimath chips. At least the VTx hardware is all open source, aside from the secret sauce in the Divimath chips (Analog is the same way - it's just that the chip that does the analog encoding is super cheap because it's old and extremely easy to produce at this point). The other thing that makes me inclined to spend more on HDZero is the fact that Carl and his team care extremely deeply about the community and about open sourcing as much as they can in order to make the community better as a whole. To me, that's worth a lot.

@@KamiHobbies Yes that's correct, the HDZero Team and Carl are really pushing it. Don't understand me wrong, I like the HDZero, but at the moment, it's not worth for me to change. I'll change when the VTX gets smaller und a little bit cheaper, but the system looks really good at this moment. I don't know, I heard something about expensive licenses - but I can be wrong. But the point is - what you have said - the user group is small and that's a problem, because we need more company's who build HDZero components for improving and getting better and smaller!

That just kind of sounds like fpv isn't the hobby for you. Soldering isn't difficult, and is generally a useful skill to have. If you already have a pile of RC gear that you haven't done anything with, why did you spend another $200+ on a receiver that you knew wouldn't get used? That doesn't make much sense to me. I definitely don't agree that the rc hobby is in a bad state. Soldering and assembling is an integral part of the hobby and always has been. If you wanted to fly rc in the 80s, you would buy plans - literally sheets of printed paper - and overlay them on sheets of balsa, and do your best to cut them out precisely. After cutting out the wood, you would glue it together and sand/shape it, then add a layer of plastic film to the wood skeleton and iron it on. We are a long shot from that these days. The reason connectors are not preferred is that with all of the crashing and vibration that exists with quads, connectors will inevitably become loose/disconnect, which would cause your quad to fall out of the sky. There are bind and fly models out there though, which will let you just fly out of the box, but this hobby is not really embodied by the philosophy that you seem to have.

@@KamiHobbies I'm a boss at soldering, just not while blind. Use a TS-100 with Kester solder / silver cleaning paste flux cleaning sponge and SOS pad etc. This hobby is total garbage. You have to solder everything. No standard connectors for anything but the battery... and not even that.

@@choppergirl you're entitled to your own opinion. Your excuse for not wanting/being able to solder is that you're blind. If you're *actually* blind - as in, glasses won't help blind - then how exactly are you planning to fly? If you mean that you're blind in the sense that you need glasses, why not just get some glasses? I enjoy soldering, personally so I'm not bothered by it being part of the hobby. There are in fact plenty of products out these days that try to connectorize as much as possible (Rush FPV and Axis Flying stacks come to mind) in which case the only thing that needs soldering is the motors (and you could buy motors from Five33 that use MR30 connectors so you only need to solder the wires once, and you can replace the motors from then on). Just because you bought a bunch of gear for soldering doesn't mean you know how to use it. If you think soldering is such a pain in the rear, I'm having trouble believing that you're a "boss" at soldering. It seems like you're just complaining for the sake of complaining.

@@KamiHobbies I tell you what, take some binoculars, turn them way out of focus, and then try soldering looking through them. That's how I see. I actually did solder up somethign recently using my Hayear 5mp inspection microscope plugged into my 42" TV... the HakeMakeMod RU-vid Subscribers Clock designed by Chat Kapper (aka FlightTest / RotorRiot founder). There were only 10 connections, and I made them but it was by imagining what was going on, because I couldn't see the solder flowing on the pad, and I had to diagnose it because I bridged one connection. Once I got it running, I was b1tching back and forth at Chat Kapper in email about his slack programming ahha. The problem with getting a box of parts (quads) and soldering them all together... is.. it's ultimately bvllsh1t when you have to do ti for everything all the time. Imagine if you went to the store to buy a microwave, and when you got it home, instead of a working microwave you could plug in and toast up your bagel with, you got a box of phvcking parts and a PC board and a photocopied couple of sheets where all the components were suppose to go. Basically, how a Heathkit or Altair computer kit came to you in the 1970's. The industry matured. Now if you build a computer, connectors are snadardized. Mouse, Keyboard, USB, SATA, front panel, EIDE, power, Molex, PCI-E slot, whatever. you just plug them in and go like they were legos. Can you imagine having to solder all those connectors together instead. All the connectors for a SATA cable from the harddrive to the motherboard From the power supply to the motherboard? From the wall socket to the computer? H377 no. Because you have standaridzed connectors. This hobby... has none. or very few... it's 10 years old now... and it's still... a bad joke. You solder everything on the tiny little FC pads or ELRS pads or crossfire pads and even connections between cameras and VTX's and VTXs and FCs aren't standardized. It's a total mess. I can't even swap different FOV lenses between different cameras.

@@KamiHobbies I mean, just imagine, if every time you wanted to plug in an appliance into your house wiring, you had to solder on 2 or 3 wires. and when you wanted to disconnect it and move it somewhere else, you had to desolder 2 or 3 wires. The reason you don't have to do this soldering bvllsh1t every time and a blind person can plug a TV in and out of their house wiring, is because in the early 1900's a man by the name of Harvey Hubbell came up with a standirzed wall to connect appliances to your house wiring... the electrical socket. You can argue I'm b1tching all you want. I don't strive to be liked, I strive to be right. And having to solder every G.D. connection on a quadcopter or RC model and hunt around for the right labeled pads to connect to and hope you don't get them backwards... is the wrong way to go about things. Boys are 1D10T5. Drops mike.