#heatpump #airsourceheatpump #heatgeek In this video, I take you through a full installation of an air source heat pump from Vaillant (Arotherm Plus 7kW) into a typical 1980-built UK house. Visit my website here: www.urbanplumbers.co.uk/
I really like watching your videos as a homeowner, not because I intend to install my own system but because it means that I can ask the professional I hire the right questions. Thank you so much for helping to educate us all.
Love your work. I can tell your a professional and you really care about doing a good job for your clients. England needs a lot more people with your energy and expertise to dispel all the negative comments people make about heat pumps.😊
Where do you live? I live in a cold climate and they keep up just fine in the colder months. You’d have to be the arctic circle for a higher efficiency units not to work.
They work fine. Even at -15. We need better education for heating engineers as average in the Uk is very poor. Experience doesn’t matter if you have been doing it wrong all this time
In many ways an 80s house is an easier proposition than something built thirty years later because the heating is likely to have been designed around single panel rads and a separate DHW cylinder so it’s got an easier upgrade path than a combi feeding rads that are already K2s, via 10mm plastic under a chipboard floor that’s glued to the joists.
I am always pleased when you post a new video. I am a mechanical and electrical engineer, I work for a local authority, taking care of complex systems in , swimming pools, various commercial office building with communal heating systems and a full district heating system. I like your work and ethic. You are clearly passionate and work to a very high standard. The one thing I would say to you though with this video, that, is in no way a typical uk house. Much of the uk housing stock is on a small footprint or is of some type of terrace/town house structure. For all who wish to immediately defend air source heat pumps as the holly grail, they definitely have their place, but, are not all things to all men and there does need to be an alternative. It always pleases me to see the standard of your installations, my local authority has suffered some shockingly bad installations from uncaring contractors, which have cost thousands to put right. As well as costing the tenant thousands to heat their homes. A knowledgeable and caring contractor has taken over, rectified the faults and proved the worth of air source heat pumps when correctly specified and installed correctly
I think it’s increasingly proven that heat pumps can work in both new build and older houses. But it seems you really need good quality kit and an installer who has high skill and attention to detail. Finding a really good installer seems like a key success factor- even more so than for a gas heating system.
@@UrbanPlumbers unfortunately there are non in Scotland :( -- I don't think the UK gov is going to its target unless it really ramps up the training, as I don't trust random installers to be even a fraction as good as you & some of the other knowledgeable folks on RU-vid
@@zlmdragon. Hard? It is next to impossible for me to find people that I can work with. I have very high expectations from others and can be rather harsh if they do not perform. On average 1 in 20 will stay with me for longer than a few months. I got used to it now.
@@UrbanPlumbers Yup, there's a lot to be said for doing a good job and enjoying your work. I think a lot of people end up in management because they think, "well, that's what we're meant to do, right?" and some of them hate it, but keep doing it because of pressure/expectations.
I really enjoy the level of detail you provide in your videos. Thank you. If the outside Vaillant unit was mounted a foot higher, you could put the trash bins underneath it! You could use a small mobile hydraulic scissor lift table (about 400lb capacity) to raise the unit instead of four people. These tables typically raise up to 5 feet and cost about 300 pounds. Just some thoughts.
Im a plumber of 27 year and love to watch your videos. You take pride in your work and it shows. I found your page from the start and watch it grow, keep up the great work. You have me wanting to pump in a valinte heat pump in my own home
I’m just so addicted to this channel. I cannot wait to get to your level of knowledge with heat pumps. I’m following the path you said to take right now. As always thank you for your videos. 🙏🏼
this is exactly what i wanted to see - about to get my vaillant heat pump installed on my wall backing onto the upstairs landing, so not too far away from the bedrooms. was getting a bit worried about transmitted vibration and noise but this puts me more at ease!
Excellent videos keeping the quality of work super high. As a plumber this is encouraging me to go into this market I have enrolled on the heatgeek awakening. Just hope the demand for this type of work will increase
Some of the best, if not the best content for the industry for all the naysayer and doubters. proving its possible and not rubbishing the renewable era. i'm interested to see what the data gathered from this one over the next 12 month will show
Great work, very impressive. Watching from Canada…I have an air source cold climate heat pump forced warm air using a matching air handler that works great. Love the idea of a “soak away”, I think you called it. However, I’d need to install a long French drain below the frost line to handle the defrost water. It’s on the side of my house out of the way, but typically has a minor iceberg underneath most of the winter.
Fascinating to watch as always and to find out about the ways you’re applying your learning as you go. Interesting to see the elevated wall mount, the tips on the application of lagging and the rule of thumb on radiator sizing. Top job…
Looks great, similar to my install in a 1974 large detached house, operating SCOP 3.89. I was able to route the condensate to an existing rainwater gulley - you can see the amount of water produced when it’s humid is like a tap just flowing, soak away might be overwhelmed.
Thanks for the positive video. We are at a stage where it is down to the designer/installer to get the system right as the technology is ready. Good luck to Heat Geeks and others teaching the "light touch" approach to heat pump installation. On the subject of Y strainers versus ball filters, I had Brendon Uys over inspecting a heat pump the other day; he recommended the Impel FBVM 486-32 mag-filter and strainer (Kv value of 21.1 according to their datasheet). £70 each, so not cheap!
Looks like a really neat installation. Interesting what you’re saying about the heating circuit pipe sizing, whilst remodelling my house over the last few years I’ve increased the heating pipe size to the same as this install. Looks like I was thinking along the right lines.
A very informative video, enjoyable to watch. I have a 1950's house in Essex with little to no insulation. I'm planning a redevelopment of my home in approximately a year's time, and I'm considering a heatpump instalation. There are several horror stories buzzing around social media regarding heatpumps and their functionality. I'm hoping to first get a heatpump specialist to provide a survey / feasibility study of my property, to determine what's possible. What I'm picking-up from all the videos on this subject I've seen, is that installing / commissioning of any hearpump system is vital. Finding an installer that is aware of all the pitfalls of heatpump instalations is also key. Currently heatpumps are being promoted by the government, and RU-vidrs like you & Heatgeek are very enthusiastic on the subject.Your professionalism I'm sure gives customers confidence, but what's lacking is a guild of excellence, something that potential customers can contact, ensuring that cowboy fitters are avoided. I'm sure that will be the main reason why many will avoid heatpumps. Regards Robert
Afterwatching your videos I'm now looking forward to our system getting fitted in the next month or two. We have an old oil boiler that costs us roughly £1200 of oil and service a year to run, I'm hoping that will be the same for electric or even cheaper as we're getting solar roof panels at the same time.... Great videos... Keep em going 👍
Great video and great advertisement for exactly how well they work... My cylinder is where my combi used to be and my heat pump is at the back of my extension so all in all no space is lost... Mine was installed in January and got around 400% efficiency for the remainder of the Winter, will see if I can squeeze any more out of it this Winter by tweaking the weather curve.
@@ice4142 it's in quite a large airing cupboard and fortunately the flow and return go straight out the back wall and radiator pipes into the floor, mine takes up roughly a 700mm x 700mm footprint but I was lucky with pipe runs I guess
Really enjoy your videos showing a balanced view on heat pumps from a true professional. Learning from previous issues and iterating - continuous development is so important in any technical trade. Installers got away with badly planned/configured boiler installations as they were inefficient/problematic but still "works" depending on your definition of works (your radiators would get hot at least). But with heat pumps all the cowboys are being caught out as they barely work or flat out do not work if they're not designed correctly - I dread to think the amount of installs that might fall into that category in the future. Hopefully the silver lining is that it weeds out installers who do not really understand the technical aspects of their trade, don't get proper training and think they can get away with lashing stuff in, which they have been able to an extent with gas boilers. With regards to space - I can see issues in my property in the future which has just a 36kw combi boiler in a cupboard in the kitchen with no extra space surrounding - in this situation is there any kind of cylinder that would be suitable to install inside this cupboard or would it be better to locate a new cylinder in the loft space? (quite difficult with extra pipework, although in my place it could be run externally if it came to it)
As others have said, I love your work the detail and research you do l feel if you installed a system that wasn’t quite working to 100% . You would there at you own expense to correct the unseen fault. Next year I’m moving home and need to upgrade to this system. I also have a renovation place in Italy on lake Como I’d love you to install 😇👍
You videos are very good, should be shown in schools! I just dont understand there are many regs but they dont have a reg about positioning of external unit to keep it working efficiently. Like not in a small alleyway on the floor.....
Very well installed. Quality work great knowledge. I suspect many heat pump systems installed with a lack of consideration for flow rates and rad DT's resulting in "heat pump" doesn't work.
We have been using heat pump for the last 10 years.we also have been using low water content rads such as Jaga rads or aluminium radiators with no problems,Jaga lads have the advantage of being able to self convect at low temperature (DBE type)and take up to a 3rd less space than the equivalent output rad!I don't remember any of your systems having solar panels incorporated with heat pump installs? Sorry if I have missed a video with panels.all are heat pump jobs would have solar thermal panels fitted.great video's
The only time I see my heat pump is when I go out into the back garden and actually look at it. But personally it’s much better looking that some other heat pumps and it doesn’t bother me. I actually stood on mine to wash the apex window on the extension haha! So it comes in handy. 😂
My personal concerns around even trying to explore this subject are: * where the unit would due to the air circulation issue mentioned here. I have 2+ metre stone walls really close at the side and back of a semi detached house. * where the water tank would go? I assume it should be close to the unit, behind the same wall? Could I put it in a cabinet under the stairs in the kitchen? * How much piping in an older uninsulated solid wall house I would have to replace in order for the unit to run efficiently? I replaced the loft insulation, put some insulation under the suspended flooring downstairs, but with councils being more concerned about maintaing house "looks" over energy efficiency there is little I can do about wall insulation * I have some iron cast radiators across multiple rooms, which hold a lot of water. How does that affect the heat pipe efficiency? * 12-15k is still fairly steep and unlikely to include any extra work, such as replacement of piping
I have just had an ASHP installed in my 1960’s 2/3 bedroom terrace house in Salford, which I would suggest is a far more common house type in the UK than a posh detached house! In order to fit it, I had to demolish an outbuilding and have the electricity supply moved. The gas has been capped off but Cadent want £1800 to actually disconnect the supply so for the time being, I have a five foot height steel gas pipe sticking up in my garden. Moving the electric wasn’t cheap either and my back garden looked like the Somme for about a month. I have a high temperature heat pump so I only had to replace one radiator and fortunately, the place where the heat pump was to be located had a small cloakroom on the other side which I ripped out, temporarily, so the cylinder etc could be installed. There is now room or reinstall the WC and basin. In spite of the stress, upheaval and periods of panic when people didn’t turn up, I am very happy. Lashings of hot water and the heating is working very well. I also have solar PV. I have a Hive control connected but I don’t use it. Total cost, including all the ancillaries, around £20,000 less £5,000 from our generous government (haha). Incidentally, I had already upgraded insulation well above minimum requirements well in advance. My electricity costs are alarming at the moment, and even with the loss of the gas, it is costing quite a bit more; not unexpected because the cost per Kw for electric is so much higher. Also, no sun or days so no solar PV. It’s early days and costs will come down eventually. I have no regrets but I am lucky I can afford it.
Sounds like a typical high temp inefficient design sadly. This job here was almost half the cost of yours and will be way cheaper to run than gas as well. Sadly some companies still pedal high temp heat pump and no rad changes nonsense.
I insisted on a high temperature heat pump because I refused to have thumping great radiators installed and I have spent a lot of money on custom painted radiators. As I said, it is early days but based on the design documents sent to me and the general level of workmanship, I would say they have done a pretty good job. The actual cost of the system to me after the £5k grant was about £9,000. The rest was for all the work required to make it possible. Incidentally, tens of thousands of UK terrace houses have looped electric supplies, my neighbour was looped into my service head, and that has to be removed. That work didn’t cost me any money but a huge amount of upheaval. I am 100% in favour of the transition but I do think it is important not to be taken in my our idiot government’s fantasies about what is involved. Even at 50% of the overall cost, it is far beyond the reach of most ordinary people. I have no regrets.
Would be nice if you could do a cost breakdown on an installation on this scale .this would probably encourage more homeowners to upgrade to this set up , especially in the present climate ( cost of living crisis).
@@Zaph31it would be nice to know ballpark figures *especially* because Szymon is a top heating engineer. We're under financial pressure but don't want to make a false economy having someone less competent to do the work. I'd rather know roughly the sort of figure I need to find to get it done right first time. Or if it doesn't work as well as expected, with Szymon, you know he will come back and know how to fix any problems rather than go bust and disappear!
First of all, great videos very informative. It would be interesting to know the price of each of these installs you do. A lot of people are driven by price.
That is a highly informative channel! I have learned the modern heating equipment and approaches how to retrofit the houses from you. We are building a 300m2 new house with a 12 kW Valliant split heat pump (previous generation) with all native controllers (720, VR71,...). The house is well insulated, has huge low-temperature radiators and a lot of heated floors. My installer follows the standard typical design from Valliant with all Valliant controllers, temperature compensation, 3x water pumps (radiators, heated floors, boiler), 100 liters buffer for heat pump, 200-liter cylinder for hot water. However, each room has a Rehau thermostat which controls radiators and heated floors with individual temperature presets. You mentioned that zone control might kill heat pump efficiency. Could you please tell me about the potential heat pump efficiency risks of this approach?
Your are very good at answering all the tech problems, but I still think cost is a problem in the short term for most people. I still Com across non condensing boilers not being changed due to cost.
Love these videos...I believe you when you say that heat pumps can work well in Uninsulated or badly insulated houses. HOWEVER, this Myth has become commonplace. Could you create a video that explains how or why a heat pump can work in an Uninsulated house to replace an Oil or Gas boiler? Love the channel, SUBSCRIBED!!
Thanks for the video. Love your content. Small gripe would be that this is not a typical UK house. Only about 15% of UK houses are detached. A 3 bed semi would probably be the most typical.
I love the idea of a heat pump, albeit I just can't afford it at the moment, but I am concerned about space. The only place we could conceivably have the outdoor unit would be right on our patio which feels a bit less than ideal but I guess could work. We are an end terrace and have no side access at all. BUT the bigger issue is the amount of space needed inside and the awkwardness of where the existing UFH manifold is relative to where we could site the outdoor unit. We do have a loft and it currently has the hot water immersion tank (140 or 150l I think) plus the cold water header which feeds the main shower, which we use exclusively, and the bath, which we never use anyway. Right now we have an electric flow boiler which takes up no space at all. The loft hatch isn't all that big so I'd be dubious about a cylinder fitting up there (these new ones look to be about just over 500mm wide I think). So, assuming this is the case, what options are there likely to be for a house like mine (I do have on other possible place but it is a very useful storage cupboard so I'd have to work out where we put the absurd number of hoovers we have, but really I'm just interested what can be done for those more marginal houses that really do have space constraints that can't be overcome, or not cost effectively)
I love your detailed approach to your projects but I think you lucked out with this house. Nice size F&R pipework to each side of the house & not a length of microbore in sight which, for a 1980's house, is very unusual. I cannot see me ever being able to have an ATW HP system in my 1986 house because it has 10mm microbore pipework to every radiator in the house. It would cost too much & create so much upheaval to upgrade all the pipework. I'm therefore looking at an Air to Air heat pump multi split system with a separate solution for HW - maybe an all-in-on HP cylinder. This also means I can get cooling in the summer if needed. Another good vid.
@@UrbanPlumbers Now that I will be super interested to look at. I'm a retired HVAC product manager/trainer so I know how important flow rates are for any successful ATW system. Normally microbore kills the flow rate & to replace it all is just too expensive & so much hassle. It will be very interesting to see how you go about overcoming this problem & achieve an efficient system. I'm already subbed so I wait for the next vid in anticipation.
Thanks for another great video, I learn new stuff from every one. One question though - could it be that the chronic defrosting you had on the earlier install was due to the unit ingesting exhaust gases from a neighbours gas boiler rather than being on the ground? I had chronic defrost issues last December with a unit that was just across a passage from a non-condensing gas boiler which was emitting loads of water vapour when it was -5 outside.
People who say pumps only work on newer properties clearly don't grasp that heating systems are sized on heat loss of the house, an old house with more heat loss needs more energy , you still get the saving from the heat pump , it's just that costs will still be higher than similar size new build, actually on an older house the payback can be quicker than a newer more energy efficient house. Also it's perfectly possible to recycle some of the larger radiators to other rooms if you do need to upsize some radiator to work with a lower flow temp, by cascading radiators you can keep the costs for that aspect very low.
I really love the work you do! A man that is proud to deliver quality work. Question: Would you install a ASHP with preinsulated pex? I have a customer who wants to install a unit 7m away from the house and have been considering using Uponor EcoFlow Twin HP 2x40mm preinsulated pex.
I installed a heat pump in our house from 1932. We are mostly satisfied and while it does use electric heating sometimes, it is very rare and we hope to do a pass on the windows, attic insulation and replace the old single pane radiators with modern low-temp ones for more stable indoor temperatures and a more efficient house.
Great stuff, I love watching these kinds of videos thought I'm not involved in the industry or trades at all. It just satisfying to see clean and high quality work being with good production values and learning a bit on the way. 2 questions, what kind of % is your work now ASHPs? also for a direct electric heated house off the gas grid, what would be the best option? mini split air to air ASHP?
I only do ASHP at the moment. I haven't installed anything else in last 6 months and the diary is fully booked for ASHP till the end of the year. I may have to move one gas boiler this year, but that is it. After installing heat pumps for a year, I really do not miss gas and competing with 'trow it on the wall' brigade'. Mini split is a budget option - so way cheaper than ashp, but A2W is far superior in terms of comfort, DHW effiency and also more efficient than mini splits can ever be on heating, if done open loop, wetar comp and with low enough flow temperature. I can see a role for A2A for people who do not have funds to go full ashp. A2A is still better than direct electric.
Very interesting. Sounds like important improvements in the units have been made wrt noise and vibration. It would be great to know what other improvements are coming / in the pipeline. However, difficult to comment on this installation because it sounds like it was at the highest level of spec for radiators and pipework before work started, so obviously this reduced cost and work. Great for them but not sure how often this is the case. What would be interesting would be some user feedback from these users on a v cold day. Being fully functional in summer is one thing but obviously not the real test.
I always post feedback from my installations. Check my other videos - there is 3 on my channel with interviews after the winter with my heat pump clients
One of the easiest examples of heat pump installations. Cylinder, meter, electrics and outdoor unit all within 10m of each other or a single wall. Lucky when this happens
And that’s the difference between a typical plumber (or gas fitter in many cases) and a qualified heating engineer that will do some maths rather than guessing 😉
What pump is used within the unit ? Just curious because if I was developing a unit I would use a mag drive pump , would like to see the inside of the unit if you have time in the future.
I live in a house with one bathroom which has an electric shower and just two hot water taps, one in the bathroom and one in the kitchen. Would it be worth doing hot water with a heat pump, or just keep the electric shower and put in some sort of electric on demand heaters for the taps? For instance, I'd quite like one of those Quooker Boiling Water taps in the kitchen.
How high up could the outdoor unit go? I see lots of AC units high up on walls, could the same be done with these? or at least high enough to park the bins under it?
Is the DHW pumped? Seems like it is a long way from the taps. I have a 1930's 4 bed detached house and will probably go heatpump when this gas boiler finally dies. Great video.
Super professional work as ever. I had my vented cylinder replaced with unvented. The cylinder is now in the loft and the airing cupboard has gone, is this a problem on a pump installation?
Great video and super informative as usual. What are your views on heat pumps for houses that have both radiators and under floor heating for large open plan spaces? Thank you.
Do you ever install the heat pumps even higher than that? I'd like to fit one just above first floor level on the wall on the back of the house. The space down the side is too narrow and only have a dmall patio so didn't want to lose that ideally. If so, how do you lift them? Is it a problem for maintenance? Is it creating problems down the line? Great video but you will get some flack for sying thats a typical house! Thanks for all the info you are sharing.
As a heating installer, gas registered and qualified in unvented H/W, with three times more years in the game than you Mr Urban Plumber, I can say that your work is of the finest there is, If anyone wants an ASHP installed (that includes me) this is the guy to install it, his also a Heat-Geek assured, ASHP Qualified installer. Question, all your ASHP installs use 3 ports valves, is this simply to take advantage of the auto bypass this creates.
Thank you for the comment. Those valves a diverters not 3 ports. I don’t use 2 ports as I don’t zone my systems. They run what is called PDHW and open loop.
Ok so they only move to block the heating port when hot water is called as that's at a higher temp then goes back so low water temp flow to the heating. thanks.
I am curious you have been able to use a Vaillant Cylinder in a vented system. For some reason I thought all heat pumps needed a closed pressurised systems due to that higher flow rate. This is good news as our system is vented so hopefully easier to install. Great video with good detail. Looking forward to the next heat pump install.
Hi ! - You're videos are excellent and are helping me decide on the way ahead. I have an oil boiler and a wood-burning stove boiler. I can use one or the other depending on our needs and the weather. I wanted to ask if you have done an install with a Valliant hybrid heat pump with a wood-burning stove. My existing system uses a neutraliser to distribute hot water to both the hot water tank or my radiators from either the stove boiler or the oil boiler.
Great videos; really well explained. One thing I would like some more information about is why heat zoning is not recommended. Does this mean that the whole house has to be set at the same temperature?
Watch the HeatGeek videos on this explaining it in detail. Seems simple is better and the illusion of micro control is outweighed by the thermal mass of a house just being maintained by weather compensation gives best efficiency.
We have a mid terrace house with a section of flat roof between us and the neighbours. This is a section above the garage and lots of people round here are mounting heat pumps on this flat roof. But your video raises a question, should I mount it on the wall of the rest of the house next to the flat roof (avoiding a micro-climate), or mount it slightly further out on the concrete roof of the garage where the noise can dissipate and air will flow round the unit?
BG installs are so poor that it takes no effort to be better than them. When it comes to heat pumps big players are at the bottom of quality at the moment.
Hi im thinking of fitting one of these vailliant heat pump in my typical 4 bed detached. Pipes up into the attic and down into the hot water cupboard on first floor. Can the unit pump cope or should i add a buffer with another pump?
My house in the uk was built in 1998/9 but it has microbore(8mm ?), i assume that all the pipework would have to be replaced. I currently have a worcester system boiler which has been great, not sure i could justify changing over to a heat pump based on the costs i've seen but with these energy prices that may change. Love the videos.
Am in similar situation but with 10mm microbore. The F & R from boiler is 22mm under 1st floor boards, though turns to 28mm in HW cylinder cupboard (why?). Not sure how close this is to each rad that probably has 22mm to10mm manifolds. I'm presuming that each manifold and 10mm pipework needs to be replaced with larger size and increase rads to K2. Doesn't help with hand "bent" microbore on each rad tail that is almost squashed flat.
Great video ! Could you do a video explaining some ballpark prices for this type of work . I know each house is different but could do , a complete instal , install without needing to upgrade pipework etc . Cost of materials, Labour charges I’m sure many of us would be interested . Thanks
Thanks - video is excellent - helped me understand more. Question: If retrofitting to house with showers, do the showers run off the mains pressure still, or do you need a pump? Thanks.
Question, do the house radiators run at 40¬45? and do you have an issue with sludge buildup in the heating system when it is not being brought above 65 like the older Oil or gas boilers do?
Any views or experience using heatpump hotwater cylinders such as the valiant arostor - seems a good idea to me as it must be more efficient because the hp is designed specifically for hot water rather than dual role dhw/ch
Hi love your videos. We are refurbishing our home in Holland. We have laid new underfloor heating throughout (Upstairs and ground floor). We did have a big combi boiler but removed it and now looking at what efficiency options we could consider for a new system. Gas is expensive so we would like avoid that big possible. Floor area is about 275 meter square. I like the look of that Vaillant heat system. Could you share many ideas / thoughts? Thanks.
My house was built in 2017 so I suspect that it has microbore pipes to the radiators upstairs (but underfloor heating downstairs). Am I likely to have to replace it all?
Very interesting videos. We just had a VWL 125/6 plus a Unitower VIH 190 installed. Will install the SensoComfort and SensoNet unit in a few days as they were on backorder initially. So, currently we have the unit on "summer" mode only using it for tap hot water. In our 145 smq meter house we have radiators, so I wanted to ask you if we should still use our radiators in the same way as previously? We have older style thermostats that we usually set at around 2-3 for a temperature around 19 degrees. Do you know of any digital thermostats that work with the Vaillant system?
It really depends on your whole house eco system. If you use solar, drive electric car and have battery storeage, heat pumps is an easy choice to make. This customer already had solar pv, battery and electric car with cheap overnight tarrif.
My detached 1985 has a detached garage with a gap of about 2 metres between the kitchen/utility end of the house and the garage. Does this gap bring with it the inability to sensibly use garage space as in your video? Using the garage does seem a good use of space even though we have a DHW tank upstairs and cold water tank in the house loft. BTW the garage has no water supply but does have electricity. Also the possible sites for the HP are numerous around house or garage. Its the separate garage thats my worry.
Absolutely fantastic videos debunking many HP myths. How easy would it be to run a solar thermal system and a heat pump side by side? We currently have ST to a separate cylinder but would like to merge into 1 cylinder and have an HP to replace the gas circuit. Challenging or not too tricky?
You should be able to do this with a dual coil cylinder. Something along the lines of the Gledhill Heat Pump Solar, which has a coil for the each of the heat sources.
This will depend on the heat loss of the property and the length of pipework (New and existing). A larger heat loss will need larger pipework, as will a longer run. As a rule of thumb 28mm is okay up to around 10KW, 35mm to around 15KW. Average heat loss of a UK home is around 8KW.
Of course the first question will always be how much? If you don't feel comfortable listing the labour cost, as this will vary nationally, perhaps just the materials? Also doesn't part L of the Building regs require that properties are zoned? I understand what your saying about it reducing efficiency, seems the regs may need another rethink
Thanks for another great video. I live in Norway and was wondering if you know at what outdoor temperature HP CoP starts to drop. Here from Dec to Mar it is usually between -5°C and -15°C. This is when the heating is most needed. Can the DHW cylinder be used as a heat battery to store heat during the night (electricity prices are generally much lower at night) and then release that heat in the morning when the electricity prices surge? Or is there a better backup heating setup? Thanks again for all your great content, I'm a huge fan ❤
