How come you left out the finished product, Ruby with heat treatment applied? You start with a bag of rubies but they disappear somewhere during the video.
You had better test any " Rubies " you buy from this company. I had a sapphire tested by them and they were pretty shady. I still never got my GIA report. Which reminds me I have to go now to make a report for GIA
Makes me wonder if the ruby in my ring was NOT heat treated. It isn't red at all, more pink-magenta. I don't much like it, but it was a gift. I wouldn't have purchased it for myself. I read that untreated rubies are worth more than treated ones, but I doubt that applies to retail rings with small stones like mine. I'd definitely have preferred a red stone. On the other hand, it IS shiny, so maybe it's just an inferior stone.
Nice monolithic video.How do you photograph rough gems effectively? I have about twenty years old Burmese rough ruby of all sizes and quality and the quantity is huge.
A good DSLR with Macro Lens and tripod will do the job. The Canon T3i [USA] also known as 600D [Europe] and KissX5 [Japan] is a great starter DSLR for under $700.
Using gas fired furnace equipment for heating rubies can be effective enough. Depending on the source of material and other factors while electric furnaces capable of 1700 to 1750 degrees Celsius are more efficient and more effective. Some sources of Ruby can be heated to up to 1800 degrees Celsius and the color improves all the more so while the clarity improves relative to the elimination of the Milkiness or Sleepiness seen in the material. That milky looking effect is caused by the formation of Rutile crystallization within the corundum. The crystallization occurs because of the trace mineral Titanium dioxide been present during the formation of the Corundum. In some Ruby sources the sleepiness is easily removed at lower temperatures of 1300 to 1400 degrees Celsius. Some source ruby material needs temperatures as high as 1800 degrees Celsius to completely remove the milky effect. But, many sources of Ruby will turn more purple color when heated above 1200 degrees Celsius because the Titanium that is present reacts to the heat and develops a Blue color component and seen after burning. In the end, and after heating you have more of a purple color sapphire and usually a dark tone also. With such material the violet or purple secondary color can be eliminated at lower temperatures but when you heat the material at higher temperatures to eliminate the milkiness you will witness an increasing percent of the material turning more violet or decidedly purple color. That being the case it becomes a conflict of sorts burning to improve the color while the milkiness is not effectively removed or burning at higher temperatures to eliminate the milkiness but witness a notable percent of the rubies turning a vary degree of purple color ( which is actually blue color development ) and mixing with the red base color ( primary color ) creating a obvious purple color. Some sources turn completely blue and dark blue and can turn black.
how gemologists tell the differences between natural mined ruby that was heated by nature before it was extracted from mine from natural mined ruby that was heated by human after it was extracted from mine?... or perhaps there was never any record of the first type of ruby?
Heat treating is a very common practice very very few stones ever bought and sold arent treated in this manner. Lead filling decreases the value and is a shady practice
Not like you describe...."Lead filling", as you say, is not like the way you think....Standard glass powder formulas are formulated using a varying percent of Lead as one of several elements included in the Glass formula that adds certain known and understood desired properties and or qualities to the finished glass products.......Those standard formulas can be and are used in the Glass Fill, Crack Filling process applied to low quality Rubies and Sapphires having an abundance of cracks and fissures and done at temperatures of around 1200 to 1300 degrees Celsius.......When tested, the Rubies or Sapphires show that the Glass substance detected inside includes Lead......People do not like Lead as it is feared as toxic or dangerous so the lead powder aspect of a standard Glass Formula can be substituted for any number of other chemical elements and then, when tested, the Rubies and Sapphires do not get a certificate pointing out the Glass content inside the Rubies or Sapphires includes Lead.....So over the years because of the Lead that is included in a standard Glass formula the nick name "Lead Glass" filling was coined by the gemological laboratories while the presence of lead in the Glass formula was used as a means to easily identify the Glass filling substance found in Glass filled Corundum of any color. ......Meantime, a good number of Rubies and Sapphires are enhanced using the Mineral element "Borax" , that in the end also melts into the cracks and fissures using temperatures up to and as high as 1800 degrees Celsius.........and then when cooled down remains inside the cracks as a clear and transparent crack filler material...but somewhat softer than Glass...but works well also and when tested in the laboratory the Rubies and Sapphires having Borax inside the cracks are certified as "Chemical Enhanced" and may or may not include notes about the actual substance that is found in the cracks...... As for a "shady practice"???.....The process is accepted as just another practice to enhance otherwise low quality unattractive material to make it more attractive and usable and salable at less than $10.00 Dollars per carat in the wholesale market place .....Cheers
400 - 500 c does nothing. The heat treatment has to dissolve the titanium rutile which melts @ 1600 C to improve clarity of the stone. What they are doing @ 500 c is glass filling the rubies w/ leaded glass. It's a common treatment that makes them look ok until you dip them in vinegar or citric acid
@@hasslefree1848 Hey can I ask you a few questions if you have experience with defusing rubies. How long do you heat them. If they are larger (400 carats and above) how long should they be heated. Do you let the natural rocks stay on? what sand do you use? Should they be heated with glass? I am going to do this and I have so many questions. I already have the equipment but I lack experience.
Most are Ceramic, this being Sri Lanka, your guess is as good as mine. They're lighting the fire with burning leaves and stomping fire out with bare feet by a guy wearing a skirt. 3rd world shit hole.
Lord Cromwell lol rubie are not made of glass it’s made of corundum. Look it up I work with gemstones and gemstone have an extremely different structure than glass does for example sapphire and rubie are from the same mineral deposite but are different due to different compounds such as titanium which gives sapphire its blue color and carbon oxide or something similar that turns corundum red making it into rubie. Anyways corundum doesn’t melt at such a low temperature you would need to turn it up to around 3000 degrees C in order to melt corundum and you can’t even melt it. To flex it like glass you would need to turn it up past it’s melting point at 1600 degrees C Other words heat treating sapphire and rubies at 600 degrees c won’t do much to treat it especially if it’s for only a few minutes...
it turns into a big slab like red glass. Worthless! They do it to defraud people. Real bunch of great guys. HA HA HA Sold as natural untreated. Selling color glass. No pride. Shiva is sad.
Lord you say bullshit... the rough ruby don't melt like glass.. if you have rough and littel ruby whit many inclusion you can't sell that stuff.. becose they are purpel pinky and very cloudy.. but if you make a right helating process they tur out very clean and red.. one natural clean(cristal color) is most expensive but if you have rough and useless stuff is a good move the helating proces.. you need to stop of talking on something you don't konw or understand.. look this video if you don't trast my word: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-F9hQiNHsvPY.html