Such a kind man, thank you for sharing the knowledge with us. I really appreciate that you went through the steps, showing things like snipping wires and cleaning things, that other videos skip over. And the electrical system education, those are helpful graphics too!
So...good video. Helped a lot. A few things to note. The part number on Amazon brings up a page that is very sketchy on what it has. I posted a picture of it actually including the crimps and heat shrinks. They only give you the exact amount of crimps -1 for the wire unused; so don’t lose one. The seats are held in by a Torx style screw; not a “star”. They go in numbers, the highest I could find at Home Depot was a T-55, it had some play; I think it was more a T-60. The rear seemed bigger than the fronts. Also mine were tough to get out. Especially the rears; to say it took pressure; that’s no joke. Make sure you have a long socket wrench handle for leverage. The rest worked exactly as he said.
You want to use that extra wire, the 2nd pin next to the burned one is also ground on the module. If you open the cover you will see both pins go to ground plane of module. By splicing both wires together to the original ground, you share the load over the 2 pins and reduce the likelihood of burning the same pin again.
@@ronnieturk9905 yep, just fixed mine... other videos showed linking both of those pins... I did the drill through method... so drilled through old connector. Soldered wires to pins directly, then spliced 2 wires to original ground wire a few inches back. Worked great..
I didn't do this the first time I disconnected as forgot there was even an airbag in seat... nothing happened, but did when putting it back in just because I didn't want to risk it...
For the longest time I didn't understand why high amperage circuits are so much more sensitive to the effects of corrosion. Then I realized, the downward heat spiral caused by tiny resistance is the product of current and voltage drop across the resistance. Of course the voltage drop is simply current*resistance. So, the power turned into degrading heat at the corrosion is I^2*R, which makes high amperage circuits especially vulnerable. Not only that, but high amperage circuits need that current to drive devices, and a small increase in line resistance in a high amperage circuit causes a steep fall in power delivery to the end device.
Now that is a great observation and explanation (to someone who understands those principles.) You should make a video explaining that in simpler terms. You would do everyone a great service
Figured I’d should chime in and let everyone know... The extra 2nd pin wire is supposed to be connected to the ground as well, that’s why it’s really there. The reason why the module burnt out in the first place is because of improper ground. The new pin with wire is made there so both wires are to be grounded and there is a more secure and more stronger ground which will ultimately prevent the module from burning out again. You’re welcome.
the wiring on the replacement part was thicker gauge, so if it took 6 years for the thinner gauged wiring to finally corrode and short then the single thicker gauged wire should the rest of that vehicles life. You're welcome
This is absolutely correct. I was looking to see if this comment was here first before I added it. This fix will just result in another burned out ground. The second wire should be attached to ground either by connecting to the first ground wire or another spot that is grounded.
Excellent video with great explanation. Mine could not turn off heating even if I don't push the heating button. It kind of turns on by itself, and make burning smell. Any thoughts?
You are such a nice man. I am soo glad your ok! I thought in one of your video you were sick? Then didn't see new videos? I thought something happened to you! Well, any way I am glad you are ok and making videos again!! Take care
Hello Robert, thanks for your comments. Yes I was gone for awhile. I posted a video about it. You can fine it here on youtube, it's titled. "personal update". I've tried to keep everyone updated as well.
Sorry but. You have taken a problem caused by contact oxidization and then added multiple new points of perspective contact oxidization ! Well done! Soldering, pronounced ( Sol....dering ) the joints would have been the only true way to add the new connector. Fitted together with some contact cleaner would help with longevity and enforcing the grounding would help also.
Great video! THANK YOU!! My driver side heated seat does not work. The passenger side does. The cooling seats work on both sides. Any ideas? I was told the heating element inside the seat is fried. Thoughts? Do you have a video for replacing the heating element?
I have a 2012 fusion that the light goes off on drivers side after a second but the passenger light works fine. Do you know if the compartment for a fusion would still be on the passenger side as the case in your expedition?
"The heated seats started to stop working." Wait......whaaaat? Or they stopped starting to work? Or did they start stopping to stop starting, but only when the off was on?
Thank you for this informative video. What if the seat heater button stays lit but but seat is not being heated? Passenger side is fully functional though. I have a Yukon 2011 Denali Hybrid and just very hesitant to drive to the dealership..
Great question. I would imagine most would say de-pinning is the best, but if not done correctly it can cause problems. So, I would say it depends on the skill level of the person doing it. if they are skilled then yes de-pinning. but is a DIYer I would say splicing. Just my experienced opinion
Excellent video. I performed this procedure on my 2010 Avalanche and got the seats working again. Now after about a month, it burnt out again. While driving my truck, I noticed an electrical burning smell. Checked the connector when I got home, and sure enough, same thing again. I spliced the extra wire into the ground wire, but apparently there's still a problem. It actually sporadically works so it's not completely burnt out. Would my next step be to replace the module, get a new connector and depin the existing one into this new one? Any thoughts?
@@realfixesrealfast I understand what you're saying, but not quite sure how it could be a poor connection given that the harness snaps into the module. What else is there anything to check besides just unplugging/plugging the harness?
@@bdbull the click you hear is the plastic pieces fitting together. I'm talking about the actual pin connectors in the harness connector. Sometimes they don't fit tight, or they have corrosion on them..
@@realfixesrealfast I'll have to check the connectors again. The harness was brand new and I don't remember seeing any corrosion on the male pin from the module, but I'll check them again when I get a chance.
My Drivers Seat was working one day, and Not the Next....Passenger`s side is working, but Not Drivers....But I have a Buick Park Av. so my wires are different....But Thanks anyhow!!!!
I'm thinking of just taking the factory wires and swapping them to the new female housing by simply removing them from the damaged one ...in my mind the only one that needs spliced is the ground.
It worked , ... It took a little time to get the melted wire lock to slide out but when I got it undone it took two minutes to swap the wires out from the old housing to the new one.
Hello. Thanks for the video. I have a similar issue with my 2013 Ford F150: the cooled and heat seats lights go on and don't turn off but I get no cooled or hot air in the seats. What could be the cause of this? Thanks again.
I gotta Question out of context with this Video? All due apologies! Is there a reccomended transmission swap away from oem for the original in the 94 e-150 Van they use the 351 Windsor motor. I have heard on multiple occasions the o.e.m. transmission is total garbage. While the motor runs just fine
@realfixesrealfast I have a 2010 Navigator. After watching your video, I was convinced I had the same problem. I went out and pulled the connector, but it looked totally fine. Not burnt at all... Then I realized it is only the driver side heated seat that doesn't work. It does the same thing as in your video, only the light stays on for around 45 seconds before it goes off. The passenger side works fine. The air cooling works on both the driver and the passenger seat. Do you have any advice for me?
You should have just pulled all the terminals out of each connector and snapped the original ones into the new connector and only had to cut one wire. This also preserves the colors at the connector.
Great video…. I have 2010 expedition, looks like someone prior to me owning vehicle replaced both plug and module. Neither look burnt. Passengers side works great, drivers works for only about 15 seconds and then shuts off. Would I need to take vehicle to dealer and have new module programmed?
Kevin, it is something you CAN do if you want to. But I understand not being comfortable with it. Give it a try, follow the lead in the video, you can save a lot of money
So, stupid question. For that extra wire, do I literally just splice it to the other ground wire coming from the connector and then attach to the original wire from the vehicle harness to it ?
I have problem with my LH power seat, it drives me crazy, i don't have any lead to solve it, maybe you can help me ? It's 2011 mustang v8, first the seat wouldn't go vertically, but would go horizontally, afterwards it completely stop any movement, but the lumbar functions well. No fuse blown, replaced the switch, didn't help, guess they made it do to sell new assembly. Please help me
If you replaced the switch and you do have 12 volts going to the switch, it can only be either a faulty connection or a bad motor. The seat positions have motors that drive them. Unfortunately they are hard to get to. You will need to remove the seat, turn it over to access the motors. To do this you will have to disconnect all the connectors. Then get a wire diagram so you know which wires control which motor, then supply your own power and ground and see if the motors work. If the do work, your problem is in the wiring. If they don't work, then the motor itself is bad. Good luck
My dash board shows everything is working, heated & cooled seats on the dash are on. Still no heat or cooled feeling coming to both front seats. Any insight would be appreciated, what do you suggest? I have no burnt connections.
they are two different circuits. The lights on the dash tell you the switch is giving the command but no real heat means that circuit is not responding.
That extra wire is for the ground so it does not fry out again..The ground needs to be bigger , that is why you’re supposed to use that extra wire and run it to the plug next to it which should be L and then you splice the 2 together 🤦♂️
I'm guessing this is probably applicable to a 2015 Expedition also? As it was basically a refresh of the previous generation expeditions. Great Video tutorial thanks!! And here is the part number for those who need it --> Motorcraft WPT-928 and the Amazon link--> www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-WPT-928-Heated-Module-Connector/dp/B0031H2FES
@cassidydimick9522 I muscled the hell out of it. I also used a pick and a flat head. Also.. I didn't take off the seat. All I did was shoved a copper wire into the burnt portion of the connector and plugged the connector back in. Then I drilled a tiny pilot hole under the carpet into the metal floor board, used a self tapper screw and a lock nut to put the other end of the copper wire to ground it to the body. Now heated and ac seats work.
@@nicetomeetme5150 awesome, I'm gonna keep muscling then, I just stabbed myself with my pick, I'm so mad at Ford right now! I'm going to try your fix, sounds like my kind of shortcut! Thanks for getting back to me!
@@nicetomeetme5150 finally got the sucker off, but it's not just that one that's melted, the one next to it started to melt as well, but not as bad. You think your fix will still work?
NO NO NO NO NO DO NOT REUSE THAT MODULE OH YEAH IT MAY WORK FOR A LITTLE WHILE BUT IT WILL BE BACK WITH ANOTHER BURNT CONNECTOR AND PIN ... COME ON RFRF !!! YOU SHOULD KNOW BETTER THEN THAT !!!!
Being at home I am assuming that the guy that was helping Dywan was family and he was trying to safely save him some money. Looking at the module and the connector as I'm sure Dywane did, it looked as if the pin in the module had little to no damage to it other than a little discoloration but looking at the damage to the connector it appears the female pin which has less surface area than the Male pin to dissipate heat, took the brunt of heat/damage which was obvious by how burt the connector was and as the module had no plastic melted or burn damage. Compared to the cost of a module to a $20.00 connector after assessing the damage, I think I would of went that route too !
@@billyr9840 I totally disagree if it was hot enough to even discolor the plastic around the male pin it should of been replaced , I have seen this many many times it is a week spot in the system mark my words one of these days this will burn again .. I respect RFRF and have even looked to his videos for guidance on a few things and greatly appreciate him working hard to do RU-vid videos and work on cars saving the customer money is fixing the car right the first time !!!!
Mike, I agree with your thinking and Dywane probably does too for a paying customer. You are absolutly correct but under the circumstances. Maybe the customer ( family member/neighbor ect ) did not have the financial resources to do the repair right and needed the car to get to and from school/work ect. Being the nice guy Dywane is he probably was just trying to help him out. After assessing the damages and under those circumstances and even if it was my own car I would of gone that route. By the amount of damage to that male pin I believe it will last many years to come if not the life of the vehicle. In hindsight he could of went the extra mile and de-pined the Male pin and replaced it with a new one. In hindsight maybe that should of been made clear to his RU-vid audiance if this is the case I am suggesting. Take Care!
hey.....if I was still at the dealer I would just change out the module....Dwyane called it right call....the resistance was in the pin get with the program dude!
