Hey Paul, if you keep your hands really dirty, like me, you can tape that paper template on and just rub your thumbs around the edges to mark the cut-out for your patch panels. ha ha ha. It works, but I'm also filthy as pig pen when I work. You, my friend, work so cleanly. I admire that!
Really like this series cause I am restoring a 68 Panel truck. Lots of useful info. I like the Eastwood products btw. They have a product for every issue.
I also simplified my truck by deleting all non-essentials. I drive very short trips so the 2nd gas tank was deleted along with the switch and extra fuel lines. Ash tray also gone! Radio deleted. Speakers deleted. Cruise control deleted. etc... However, when it snows, my heavy 1976 K20 is the 4x4 vehicle to drive. Thus, the heater core, for me, is essential. In Paul's case, a C10 would be a poor winter vehicle and I totally get why he is doing this. Keep going Paul! Make it your own.
@@paulkc10 Always seems to happen at the worst possible time. After it happened to me the last time, I think I got the 80cf tank. It's lasted me almost a year. lol
Thanks! I learned a few thing from this video. I have to take off my front clip because I have water leaking in from the sides of my cowl, into my cab. I hope its not major!
Great job Paul!!!! Another step closer to being done... 😆 I feel your pain about the cold weather. Here in Ontario, Canada we seem to have winter back!! 😢😠 A few weeks ago it was beautiful and warm we turned off the heat in the house, I got out to work on the 67 C10. I started working on the rear stepside fender. Metal work, and welding , rust repair.
@@paulkc10 that sucks! For what nice warm weather we had the grass and most of the flowers started to grow, then it dropped below zero and also snowed more! Not good at all.... it has dropped below zero tonight and calling for rain maybe mixed flurries. 😠
Looks like 2 years ago. Been binge watching some of your videos. Overall I enjoy your project you have talent and do pretty good work. Anyways, it is too late to help you with the this C/10 Build, but it may help others and your future builds? NOTE: Fiberglass Body Filler is made for boats and Corvettes, not for metal vehicles. (Says exactly that on the package.) It is definitely not for covering incomplete metal work, bad or half-a** metal work. Nor hiding any welding defects such as pin holes? All you are doing is covering up and creating "future rust areas." Maybe not in 5 years but at some point. Rust is the number one enemy of any paint job or body work we can do. Prevention is key from every step. Even painting the screw holes drilled in body panels after paint us always missed. Sorry wish I could tell you otherwise, but body filler fiberglass or not will NIOT prevent moisture or rust from taking root. Worker smarter not harder, take your time to do the extra work. Please challenge yourself to get your metal work welding and grinding as perfect as possible. More work in the metal saves adding filler on top to hide it. Body filler should NOT be applied thicker than 1/8" to 1/16" skim coat just to smooth it out. Only after doing quality metal straitening, filling, Patching, and welding. Never use body filler to fill holes, dents, or rusted and untreated rusted panels or metal. I hope this helps on future builds. Can't wait to see what is next. Thanks and best wishes...
paulk_c10 I have a 72 C 10 myself. I removed all of the parts out. I’m not sure how much further i want to go. I feel like I’m better off taking the cab off and replacing the rubber mounts and make everything new. I see that you braced the inner cab, what’s the reason for it. Thank you
I knew I had to cut out quite a bit of the floor and didn’t want the cab to twist on me. I also wasn’t sure what order I was going to do things and wanted the extra support for when I had the cab on its back.
Love the project! Newly subscribed and binging your vids. One suggestion: When you transferred the pattern to the steel sheet you can use those same small magnets to hold the pattern down.
paulk_c10 yes. I’ve heard those things are pretty good at circulating the air. And the one of the best things is, you don’t need to plug it in or put batteries in it!
You dont think a heater or option for AC is needed in Michigan? I live on Vancouver Island and am really wanting to keep the heater but mine is worse than yours and no repop pieces made for it.
I’m thinking about doing a heater core delete in my 92s-10 is there any cons to it that you’ve come across,and are there any pros to it as well I’m gonna race it but kinda be nice to have a heat source here in ny it gets chilly 🥶 some nights.subbed to the channel keep up the videos
did i miss the explanation of why the heater deleted? i see a woodstove, so he cant be from california or arizona, even if he was they can drive their hotrods yr round, i dont get it?
Hey Paul, I'm currently doing and ls swap and was very curious if I need the stock heater on the 1970 chevy c10 that I have. I want to delete it and later down the road add a heater and ac in the truck. By deleting the stock heater will I be able to do so
@@danielmartin6765 it's definitely a lot of work. Mine were completely rusted and I wanted to shave them, they look nice but they're part of the c10's body lines. I ended up getting a complete roof swap from a donor cab lol.
