HEI Electronic Ignition Conversion - 360 V8 - 1973 Dodge B100 Van MoPar 

The ballast resistor can give problems. Normally when that goes out the car will start as long as the key is in the start position but will shut off as soon as you let it go. But with this system you don’t need to bother with any of that!

Balist resistor easy way to tell if it is bad is to unbolt it look at the back if the insulation is cracked it is bad! If you drive a Mopar with a balist resistor Cary a spare in your glove box and a nut driver for the bolt . If this goes bad you can crank that car till midnight and it won't start!

I tried everything to make the factory ignition system work. I concluded there was some sort of issue with the wiring harness. The HEI upgrade fixed it easy enough and eliminated all the extra components. Hopefully you can get yours back to running like it should!

Check the wiring harness junction block that bolts to the firewall right behind the battery. The pins will corrode internally due to years of repeated exposure to rainwater and battery acid fumes. It's basically a big black plastic plug with a bunch of wires in it and a bolt going thru the center. It's right behind the battery plugged into the firewall. Guarantee you'll find your problem there when you unbolt it you'll find a bunch of corrosion

@@chrissytaylor5690 Tried that. All the terminals were fine. Cleaned them anyhow and used dielectric grease. Still didn’t fix the issue.

@@ObsoleteAutomotive oh okay. Well then you might just have a broken or grounded out wire somewhere in that harness then.🤷‍♀️ Don't be surprised if someone who did some work in the past didn't crush a wire in between the bracket and the engine block somewhere! Lol! You gotta think from back then to now there's probably been all kinds of yahoos under that hood throwing parts at it! 🤦‍♀️

@@ObsoleteAutomotive still I don't fault you for going with an HEI unit 🤷‍♀️ even if the electrical system was fine I would still probably go with an HEI or a Mallory unilite or something instead of that factory Mopar electronic ignition (which is crap and famous for leaving people stranded) Lol. So either way..... You're doing the right thing! 😉👊

Check the wiring harness junction block that bolts to the firewall right behind the battery. The pins will corrode internally due to years of repeated exposure to rainwater and battery acid fumes. It's basically a big black plastic plug with a bunch of wires in it and a bolt going thru the center. It's right behind the battery plugged into the firewall. Guarantee you'll find your problem there when you unbolt it you'll find a bunch of corrosion. that junction right there will cause all kinds of electrical demons! Loss of lighting intermittently, intermittent or non-functional gauges, alternator charging issues, etc. I Only know this because I've ran into it quite a few times, and that seems to be a trouble area on that generation of B series vans

@@chrissytaylor5690 I have had it apart there cleaned and applied di-lectric grease. it's been fine over 6 months. What really caused me to go there was i was not getting power from the ac controls to turn on the compressor. I was a ford tech for 25 years and i know electrical very well be cause i also taught automotive classes, still do on occaision when called.

@@charleshollingsworth1583 right on man! Yeah so I'm not telling you anything you don't already know, lol! But yeah I have ran into some funny ones myself over the 16 years I turned wrenches full-time.... And definitely come across some off-the-wall shit that had already been through like five shops and they never even bothered to check wiring harnesses or grounds first and foremost. So naturally, always do my visual inspection in the most obvious places lol. Case in point..... I was working on a 85 Dodge van with a 318 just like the one you've got that had intermittent starting problems and flat acceleration issues. Another shop had thrown everything it could at the motor distributor, ignition module, coil, you name it! After digging into it for about an hour I got A co-worker to turn the crank pulley while I held the rotor button on the distributor. And the shit had like an inch of play before the distributor would even turn! 😂 Turns out it had those plastic coated timing gears to keep the noise and vibration down in the timing chain back in those years...... And the plastic had gotten old and brittle and cracked apart causing a shit ton of slop in the chain. A relatively simple problem that this guy had been fighting for 2 years! 🤦‍♀️ Sometimes people got to think along the lines of the age of the vehicle and the mileage and go after typical wear out items as opposed to always replacing electronic engine management items. But that's what separates the new school tech from the old school tech. And the only reason I know these things it's because I had worked for independent shops since I started in 2003. And the stuff I was always working on was a blend of older vehicles and newer vehicles.🤷‍♀️ The new, young tech on the scene these days don't even know where to start unless they can plug-in an OBD2 scanner! 🤦‍♀️

@@chrissytaylor5690 Quick or maybe not so quick timing chain story local farmer had a 1987 f-250 with the good ol 460. this truck according to the farmer had rooled the 5 didget odometer 5 times meaning 500,000 miles. His truck hard start, when started would not idle, and would pop snap backfire when you gassed it. 87 wa sthe body style change but thr 460 still had a 4bbl carburetor. He takes it to a local shop and they dick around with it and decided to replace the carburetor, plugs , wires, cap, rotor, ignition module, just throwing parts at it and same problem. So i get a call at the local ford dealer i worked at to come by after work and give it a glance. I knew the truck when i saw it and it was a neighbors truck and i told them it had tons of miles on it and they needed to check the timing chain backlash and they did not even had a clue what i was talking about.. put a pull handle and a socket on the crank and popped off the cap and the chain slack was like say 20 minutes on a round clock before the rotor would move. The owner refused to put a chain in it sold it and the new owner fixed the chain and is running the hell out of it.. There was someone selling a vintage pick-up on marketplace a early 70's for and it stated runs great no check engine light.. LOL.

I get them off eBay. The only issue is that the rotor/firing order is one wire off from factory.

This setup could be used to do away with the lean burn system. Though you will likely need a non lean burn carburetor to install as well.

@@ObsoleteAutomotive thanks for the tip

Yes! It actually starts. And drives. 😂 But in all seriousness it runs very well with the conversion. No hesitation or anything.

It’s a generic HEI kit that I got off eBay. I’ve put them in several cars and they work excellent. Haven’t had any issues. Just search for “chrysler small block 318 hei” or something similar and you’ll see many sellers and options. I used the kit with the smaller sized cap and stock looking coil/wires.

@@ObsoleteAutomotive Thank you, I do appreciate it!

Hi, I bought the HEI kit off eBay. I believe it comes with a 3 year warranty. It came with the distributor/cap, plug wires and coil. The whole kit was about $160. I chose black cap/wires and standard coil so it looked more correct. The unit is a lot smaller than your typical GM HEI distributors so it fit nicely and didn’t look too obtrusive. You will not need to use any of the factory ignition components. I left the factory wiring disconnected but left the original components under the hood so it still looked original under the hood. The ballast resistor is bypassed. The double wire on one side and it’s opposite on the other is all that’s needed but you can make a jumper for both sides. The plugs can only go on one way. You’re simply making a jumper for the “top” terminals. The green wire doesn’t need to be jumped as it goes to the original ignition module which isn’t used anymore. For this system to work you only need to connect two wires on the new HEI distributor after bypassing the ballast resistor. It’s super simple and works great. The only issue is the distributor is one plug wire off from the original. So you’ll need to move all your wires one spot over for the timing to be right and allow for adjustment.

ok great, thanks so much for responding you have helped me a lot!! Seems easy enough. When i was 17 my first car was a 1976 Plymouth duster (it was light green) with a 318 that my mom bought from her boy friend and he said he took it to Santa Fe speedway (its in Illinois) and won. That's what influenced me to love Chrysler cars I put air shocks on it and jacked it up putting big tires on the back. I cut off the exhaust and install straight glass packs i had to coast home not to wake up the neighborhood. I even painted (white with dark green stripes) it and put stripes on it from front to back. Man I wish I had some pictures(1985). It was so fun to drive. Oh and I had a swinger just like yours same color but mine was a 4 door with 3 on the tree slant 6, yrs is much cooler!! Anyways thanks again I'm rambling I just found you because i was trying to fix my truck, I look forward to watching more of your videos, I make sure to tell my son about u!!@@ObsoleteAutomotive

EBay. Just type in whatever engine you got and HEI. There are several types of caps, wires, colors and coils available.

@@ObsoleteAutomotive OK thanks you!

The issue was with the factory electronic ignition. It had intermittent issue that I surmise was in the wiring harness somewhere. All bolt on components were new and tested good. (I also swapped them all for good measure as well!) The issue would come up and when you’d begin testing everything would check out good. And it would restart. This HEI system eliminates all the wiring, ballast resistor and ECM. It’s a much simpler system and in ways better than the factory system. Now the van runs and drives flawlessly.

This isnt a points distributor. Those were older than this electric ignition distributor. What he did is the easiest system replacement versus the stock mopar ignition system. Less parts, less failure points. No one in the mopar world likes the stock system or the way the wiring is done. Good question tho.

@@ObsoleteAutomotive those Early B series vans battery had a big problem with the wiring harness junction block that bolts to the firewall right behind the battery. The pins would corrode inside the big plastic plug and cause all kinds of electrical nightmares. And you won't notice that it's corroded until you unbolt it from the firewall and look at the pins on the backside of it. If you ever have any charging issues or intermittent gauges..... Your problem will be right there!! 😉

What is the fix for that junction block mess?

GM HEI systems (and other similar aftermarket varieties) are “all in one” but have a huge unsightly distributors that don’t always fit. This system for the most part looks stock and doesn’t stick out with bright colors. Not being “all in one” allows for a much smaller distributor cap and such and uses an external coil. The coil is a 12v HEI coil that’s required with the HEI distributor.

@@ObsoleteAutomotive Cool ' l didn't know this. Now l'm more tempted to go HEI in my 67 dart 360 ci. I've done it before to a Ford 351 Windsor It ran so sweet with the HEI 👍

@@toniocavalari6936 it works great. And looks stock for the most part. They offer the female distributor caps so it’s hard to tell it’s an HEI.

All the money necessary? It was $150 for the entire HEI kit… plug wires and all. The individual factory components were fine. And then replaced just because. And it was still a problem. This happened intermittently. It wasn’t just a simple no spark issue. That would be very easy to diagnose. Installing the HEI solved all the problems and that was the end of having a van that wasn’t reliable. The HEI system is very simple and works.

@@ObsoleteAutomotive But you never did diagnose it, did you?

@@HamJamming And you don’t actually drive cars any long distance or know about HEI or potential wiring issues that can affect a factory ignition system. This is today. $150 and it was fixed. Instead of the thousands of dollars that previous owners dumped into “mechanics” trying to get the van fixed. Other people would like the option to be able to fix their vehicles and have appreciated this video and the CHEAP and EFFECTIVE not to mention superior ignition system replacement. You got schooled on how cheap an HEI system costs these days so go for trying to attack me personally. Nice try. I determined that there was an intermittent wiring issue in the harness as ALL components were GOOD.

@@ObsoleteAutomotive If you don't thoroughly understand the ignition system's theory of operation, you will never be able to diagnose it properly. You can't formulate a diagnostic procedure until you understand how it operates. I don't think you ever understand what it means to pull a circuit down to ground.

@@HamJamming I’ve been around plenty of circuits and repaired plenty more. In both residential and automotive capacities. But thanks for the insight. $150 and it was fixed. No wasting time trying to find an issue that was intermittent. I don’t get paid an hourly rate to fix my own cars. And others that may not have the tools and knowledge may want a simple and cheap fix. Other people have gotten their cars back on the road due to this simple and easy HEI kit. Who cares if the original ignition system is removed and simpler, trouble free and arguable superior system is installed? The van could then be driven without being potentially left on the side of the road. And now the van is in France being driven without any troubles. Sometimes the quick and cheap fix is what’s needed. This isn’t no 100 point show car.

@@jahns1586 Go on eBay and search for MoPar small block HEI. And several options should come up.

@@ObsoleteAutomotive I found one, the newest it said it works for is 1978. I have an 83 that I want to do away with the mopar ign causing me issues like you. Did they change the distributor drive or anything after 79 making this not work?

eBay.

Generic off eBay. Just type in MoPar 318 HEI.

@@ObsoleteAutomotive 👍

Never checked to be honest!

A727 Loadflite (Torqueflite)

@@ObsoleteAutomotive thank you for the reply. Would you know if a 72 318 would bolt right in? I know is off topic but I have a 360 on my b200 that I must reconstruct or replace Some one is giving me a 318 from 72 that was on a sedan and wanted to see if it would bolt right or if I would have to change transmission to a 904. I just started getting into engines and I’m not experienced at all as you could see. Thanks

@@alfredomendoza7786 A 318 would bolt up to your transmission but the engines are balanced differently. You will need to use the torque convertor from the 318 or get a conversion flex plate. You might also need to use bolt ons off the 360 for it to work. Depending on what the 318 is out of you might have to swap oil pans as well.

The system requires constant 12 volts. The ballast resistor in most cases reduces voltage after the vehicle starts. Removing the ballast resistor also just eliminates another component you don’t need… simplifying your ignition system.

If you watch the whole video it explains it…. At 20:45. The new distributor is one off from the original.

@@ObsoleteAutomotive yes i spoke too soon got ahead of myself i sometimes do that i get exited and well there you go 🙏 very good work

@@mike-tl3is When I first put the distributor in I was like… well that ain’t right. But it was as simple as moving the plug wires over one and no big deal. Though you’d think whoever designed the new one would have done a little better at making it the same.

@@ObsoleteAutomotive exactly but you caught that with no problem 👍👍

So an ignition system that wouldn’t work properly and left you stranded? That’s not broken? Do tell how it isn’t broken?

Yea I know how factory ignition works. Thanks for the advice.