No spark. Kuhltec electronic ignition distributor notorious for similar problems. Stick with points. Worked fine in 20 million VWs. Terminal #1 on coil is hot&cold as points open & close. If not, no spark, will never run. Turn engine until timing mark is up, rotor points to 5 o’clock (good idea to make SURE it’s on #1, both valves closed). 12V test light on terminal #1 with condenser wire, NO OTHER WIRES (unless you have a tach) Turn distributor CLOCKWISE until light is OFF and a little further, then turn distributor COUNTERCLOCKWISE until light just comes ON. Snug distributor clamp. It will start & run fine
Could be several things. The last one I had was a faulty fuel pump, exactly like yours. I put a Pierburg for nearly three times the price and it works fine. I checked it by removing the top of the hose going to the carb and no fuel was spilled. Could be points, bad timing, spark cables, faulty sparks, fuel line, ... (I know it is a late reply but it could help some reader).
Dude I feel your pain, I checked out a completely rebuild/restored one at a dealership today and the motor started but wouldn't stay running, the used salesman gave it a try and just kept revving the piss out of it until it stayed going, not sure how good that was for the motor but it worked. $15k might buy it, not sure though...
Ok,on these engines, I would first make sure there is fuel in the tank. Then is the fuel flowing back to the fuel pump. Is there a filter? Is it plugged? If all is good, now you’re at the carb. There is a device on the left side of the carb, near the coil, that shuts off fuel to the carb when you shut off engine. Test it by pulling the electric plug off it with the key on, in the run position. Touch that connection, you should hear an audible click sound.if you don’t, use a jumper wire that is hot to test. If it clicks, it should work. Crank the engine over. The fuel pump should fill the carb float bowl. Hold the choke open by hand, so you can look down the throat.pump the throttle, you should see fuel squirt out of the accelerator port.if not, then you got a problem. Has this engine sat for a long time? Todays fuel breaks down very fast, and is famous for plugging up carbs.I could type all night. Not going to. These are the basic first steps to check. Maybe a qualified tech is where you should go to next. Gasoline is dangerous. Good luck.
You should check the point it might be closed and needs some readjustment, i had the same problem and i re adjusted it through the highest point with a 0.16 opening and it worked. Best luck ♥️
Check to see if you have power going to the coil when you turn it over I had a grounded wire in the back under the carpet not enough power to the coil I replaced the wire and it started right up
not sure you will see this but mine was doing this today my fix was the points being loose and not moving. all i did was regap and tighten and boom started right up. hop this helps 5 years late
two wires (black and red usually) if it is one of the pointless distributors w/out a condenser. If it has points, the condenser has a green wire up to negative on the coil tower.
Hi carlosjimz, if you unplugged the choke wire how did the choke continue to work? We have a T2 bus with an emphi carb and it too has an auto choke, so just wondering if this is also our problem. But do you have to wire the choke seperately? Thanks.
I have 73 beetle replaced coil, condenser,points,wires, distributor even bought pointless distributor electronic,plugs, new carburetor, fuses, timing,no start,turns over good can anyone give me some advice
I was having the same problem I bought a new coil from napa and still no spark I bought a ne rotor new condenser new cap and nothing turns out that the coil I bought from napa are no good for bugs I went and bought a bosch coil and that solved it
It sounds like you have no spark if you spray starting fluid in the carburetor it's should start if you have spark since you don't you have no spark could be the wires or coil
I had good spark. It turned out to be cylinder wash. There was a little water in the engine from the PO keeping it stored outside unprotected, plus I had tried starting it and flooded the engine with unspent fuel. It worked itself out in the end.
Any luck? Im having same problem. New carburetor and so on. Can spark plugs die if flood it several times? Im going to order new plugs and if that doesnt work, im lost.
Body It seems you do not have spark coming out from coil Make a real test Remove tip from distr (coil) ... pointing out to metal, ask a helper to crank it ... you must see spark ... if not coil is bad
You indicated your starting problem was due to water in the cylinders. Three questions. Did you see white exhaust smoke, which I see coming out of the tailpipes? Could the water be at the bottom of the gas tank, as I had no problem starting 3 weeks ago? Should I just wait until the cylinders dry or can I dry it faster somehow? Thanks for your reply.
Hi there, no I did not see any white smoke. At this point, the engine hadn't been started in several years and had been exposed to southwestern Idaho weather during that time. As I was assembling the engine, water was visible in the dual ports. I did my best to use a rag to dry it up, but that obviously wasn't a quick/easy fix. In reality, I probably should have pulled the jugs off and drained the engine of all fluids. But I didn't have an engine stand AND this was my first bug engine that I had ever removed. I learned a lot, but I'm no pro by any means. You might try heating up the engine block somehow to see if that helps evaporate the water. Or, on an engine stand, pull the heads or oil cover and see if you can rotate it and drain water. Other than that, work through all of the other stuff that could go wrong and keep your fingers crossed. Good luck.
I'm having the same problem like you so what I did I cleaned my carburetor I took the carburetor off the car took it apart and cleaned it put it back in and the runs good ✨✨✨👍✨✨✨
Just fixed mine Found contact in dist .cap was not reaching contact on rotor ...I built up brass contact on top of rotor with solder ...works now til I get a new dist. Cap
MIne was running very rough. I just purchased it and notice the PO had the #1 & #2 plug wires reversed. I switched them around and now it won't even start!
steve baker Turns out I had "cylinder wash.". So much gas had gotten in to the cylinders (Turned out that early on a I had a bad battery. After a lot of turning the engine with not enough spark...) that it had washed the oil off and killed my compression. I had to put in some oil through the spark plug holes for each cylinder and... Eventually... It started!
My 72 beetle looks exactly like yours and I'm having the same problem as you were having in the video exactly the same down to the bad battery that I had and turning it with a low Spark so your video has been helpful. My question is what type of oil did you use and where exactly did you put it?? Please help🤔
C. Washington I used motor oil. Same stuff you put in the engine when you change your oil. I put it in through the spark plug holes. Maybe 10 ml or so. Just enough to get oil back around the cylinder heads to make sure I was getting combustion instead of just a busted ego. Good luck
When mine turns over it starts immediately.....my problem is intermittant electric non-connectivity. Sometimes it starts and sometimes it won't I can't get it to even turn over. The cables are clean, the red light comes on, but when I turn the key.....nothing happens.
Gd evning too all vw mechanics chef. i ask my vm engine. Fuel supply good. Spark good new spark plug.. carb finish cleaning but why the engine is verry hard start.
