Today I am 78 years old. I am still trying to find someone to explain to me what was wrong with having a second stick on the floor to engage the transfer case, and locking hubs that you got out of the truck and turned to lock the front hubs. Oh, and in all the years i have been driving and working on vehicles, I never saw one of the old manual 4wd systems fail. So why'd they change the system? Trucks are a working man/womans vehicle. A working person needs simple, dependable, and reliable. Anything with modules, wiring, relays, wires, plugs, connections is failure prone. Failure Prone is NOT RELIABLE!
Those old ones with warn lockouts were a money pit for ranchers that used them daily. Mud would penetrate that small seal by the needle bearing, beat thar axle shaft up and you would have to replace the bearings and hubs every 10000 miles. Then came the hub assembly you would go 50,000 miles before anything went wrong. Hub was more expensive one time to replace but in the end it cost a fourth what it cost to maintain the old setup. That's daily use in the mud. As for that stick shift??? They were alright on a cast iron transfer case. They have to have electric because of the automatic 4x4 where the front axle only engages if it detects a slip on the front axle
Well, now most truck's have become soy boy/girl vehicles. I recall seeing where the man and his wife both had a 4WD trucks. Most of these trucks driven by such people have little TONKA TRUCK beds that hold next to nothing and are more for "looks" than functionality. I agree with you especially about the ridiculous number of modules on the crap they are making which are unobtainium after a few years.
@@KStewart-th4sk The funny part of all this is that the people that buy these 4wd vehicles don't seem to get that they can't stop any better than an old 2wd truck. My first was a 1960 F250. That truck was a beast. I drove it in winter to where I ran a Cat rubber tired front end loader to move snow for major clients. I just put a scoop or two of snow in the bed at the first snow. As spring came, it melted when I no longer needed the weight for traction. That truck could carry anything I threw at it. Straight 6, three on the column. Bullet Proof. No extraneous BS to fail. Changed the oil regular, plugs, points and cap on occasion, wires once. It Never failed me in any season. I got her in exchange for some concrete work. No payments ever for me. I've never had a car/truck payment.
Than you Ivan. Have a 2020 RAV4 that the mice got into. Took me 18 hours to figure it all out but between you teaching, AllData and some persistence got it fixed, no parts required...with my TS100 soldering iron. THANK YOU!
Great breakdown of basic circuit testing. Advise the owner to keep a relay or two in the glove box. These relays have a tendency to fail sporadically due to pitting contacts especially in high humidity..... Replaced more than a few fuel pump relays for a no start after crazy Florida rain and fog.
Clear thinking, as always, Ivan. As much as I love test lights, every time I try using them in series with an end device I introduce confounding variables. Effectively you're introducing a new voltage divider that may or may not supply enough power to drive the light and/or the end device. It means too much thinking for my simple brain, ha ha. Better to replace the end device with a low resistance bulb to get an unequivocal result, then move on with no pondering about what it means.
People have to understand these Video's are for People who understand the Basics very well, I would strongly suggest if one doesn't understand Voltage drop test etc, You have to know the Basics first then it's Very easy to follow along , I'm sure 85% or more do understand, If Not 🇺🇸 is in Trouble for the future.
@@raymondreiff8170🤝.You are absolutely right! And for those who don’t understand, there is a channel from the Massachusetts Institute, now there are excellent free videos on the basics of electrical engineering and electronics.
@@raymondreiff8170 you have to understand that automotive diagnostics IS in deep trouble in the US. These misdiagnosis aren't outliers, they are the norm. Dealership service departments don't allot time for physical diagnostics, 1 hour from the time that the "technician" picks up the ticket is all that is alloted. That time includes connecting a scanner, pulling codes, test driving or otherwise duplicating the fault, reading live data on the scanner, testing of the indicated component, and if the technician has any time left they might do a visual inspection. In reality the technician will take whatever time remains and throw it away because they are moving on, it's how you fit 10 one hour diagnostics into a 7 hour day... Just like the mobile tech who misdiagnosed this the first time, they have been conditioned to be parts changers. So much so that they don't even look at the filament in incandescent bulbs to verify that it is burned out before replacing it. If a component doesn't function then it must be a bad component, right? Nevermind that the component is the least failure prone part of the system. I'm incredibly shocked that the mobile tech didn't replace the underhood fuse box and the 4wd switch, or the half dozen other common failure points, it's a Chevrolet and the tech was clearly picking the low hanging fruit. But I am relatively sure this mobile tech is just a hack and doesn't have a laptop and hotspot to even look up service data in the field. He's got a smart phone with a cracked screen doing Google searches. That's fine for the home gamer but not for the pros, at least as their only resource.
Nice thing about havin' Ivan "fix your sh1t"....it'll get done right.....and from what I can tell.....a WHOLE LOT CHEAPER because there's no parts cannon on the homestead.
Great video Ivan. Please do not take this the wrong way. I saw the two floor jacks but I didn't see any jack stands for safety while you were working on the underside of the truck. Please use all the safety equipment that you can while servicing these vehicles. I / we all would hate to hear that you got injured or worse while working on a car or a truck. You do such a great job teaching and instructing us on how to solve these problems. I personally have learned so much from your videos and what types tools (scanners, test lights, all data etc.) are out there. Thanks again for another great video. Have a great day and keep the video's coming.
The wheels were still on and there was enough room to lay under without lifting it. The jacks just provided extra room. I work on my Silverado all the time without lifting it.
@@ChiefDLK So what you are saying is that as long as there is enough room between you, the truck, and the floor without jacks it is perfectly safe to jack up a truck and not use jack stands for safety while you are working on the bottom of the truck. Okay then lets say that you have your hands and arms up vertically working on the transmission and one of the floor jacks drops unexpectedly and the truck comes down and pins your arm and hand between the transmission and the floor and there is nobody around to help you. What are you going to do????
@@brucel76 What are you even talking about? For one he was not taking a transmission out so it does depend on what you are doing. And how would the transmission pin your hand between the ground and the transmission when it is still attached to the engine? Stop being a dumb*ss. There are circumstances that you will be fine under there with just jacks. That is my whole point so don't blow it out of proportion.
I have noticed and commented on that too. I am amazed that such a bright young man would work without jack stands. I think we should start a " Buy a lift for Ivan" program. God knows he deserves one. So do I, but I never pulled the chain.
@@brucel76I agree Bruce, I own 2 F150's and I would not think of getting under either one without jack stands. There is not enough room to work under a standard truck without lifting it. Tragedy never sleeps. It's like locking out a breaker on an electrical panel.
Great work Ivan, as usual. On my Honda civic 2006 the clutch disc had to be replaced and after this repair I have the Check Engine light for Starter cut Relay P0615. I replaced the relay but still the same code. Without the relay the same code and the car does not start. Check Engine light comes ON after the car starts but not before that. All works, no issues. I have to find a good mechanic like you to fix it. Thank you.
That truck must have spent its whole life in Florida to look that good. I don't think I have ever seen a Chevrolet truck that clean underneath. Of course, in this instance, the owner wouldn't have brought the truck to you initially because he lives in Florida, however, I wonder if there will ever be a time when someone brings their vehicle to you and the parts cannon hasn't been fired? GREAT VIDEO!
Not relevant to your diagnosis but that interior fuse you checked with your test light was the "RR WPR" fuse. The 4WD fuse was the dark blue 15A fuse above it to the left a bit. My fathers Chevy truck wouldn't change between 4wd and 2wd and I found the dash button assembly circuit board had multiple cracked solder joints where the connector is soldered to the PCB. Was very strange since there seems to be little risk of vibration or pulling on that harness that would crack those solder joints.
Its nice to have a straight forward fairly easy fix once in a while. Still shows the importance of following proper troubleshooting procedure and logic. And of course a good reliable wiring diagram.
Can't wait for the next video. 👍 QUICK-WITTED,Ivan,Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Take care,Ivan ,Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 13:59 Good Afternoon
With the wiring diagram it's a big help to power and signal test. Fairly clean looking truck underneath. Good one Ivan. Looking through the comments I see others had mouse damage. From a radio show that used to be on Sunday mornings, he recommended putting "Bounce" drier sheets under the hood, away from the exhaust and other hot parts. Mostly around fender areas. Apparently mice don't like the smell of those sheets. On the Sunday Morning TV show "Motorhead Garage" on MotorTrend TV, they show a product that can be used under the hood on the 12 volt system or they have a larger one for the garage. Both put out a high frequency we can't hear but it affects mice. I don't know about rats and squirrels. Hope this helps.
Mice got my neighbor's dodge dakota ! Chewd up all the ECM wires and nested in the air filter box ! What a mess ! I use "Rodent Sherrif" a few sprays now and then under the hood and in the cab seems to work pretty good !
Wow! 31k on a 2002 Silverado, how cool is that! That comment about the soldering iron being as good as sliced bread was AWESOME! I use that saying all the time. I love being a BOOMER!👍
I have been very busy this year chasing mouse damage, it's getting to be more of an issue. I have some clients that live in a large apartment complex and it has been a fight to keep the rodents out of the engine compartment. They love the wiring and the hood insulation, you can always tell with your nose when you open the hood!
Manufacturer found that worked so no repair costs ever got made. Need to fix that problem. I remember the locking hubs you got out of the car and set them on the wheels.
Again great diagnostics there Ivan and then fuse boxes are nasty for rodents we had lots of trouble with them also them transfer case motors we're kind of a bad issue too they they had a sensor in them that you could replace for the rotation of the motor and that we replace quite a few of them take the motor apart put that in
Great diagnosis. Now, if experience has taught me anything, you should go out and buy a couple more of those soldering irons before they stop making them. It always, always happens that things of great use or food items that you love will eventually be replaced by something "new and improved". This is rarely the case, so do yourself a favor before they're all gone.
Hey while you're in there Ivan, remove the cluster and resolder all the SMDs and the main connector.. They will fall off due to heat and bad solder otherwise, eventually.
Nice truck. Great fix...planned process of elimination ! If those fuse boxes are prone to oxidize etc. what preventative measure is best to eliminate that?
I liked this video better because it has a completed event, and entertaining as usual. I am a little surprised that cars are so vulnerable to rodent damage, said the man that parks in a garage. LOL.
The way I test if 4WD works is to drive in tight circles and check for what is called "crow hop" when 4WD is activated. When the vehicle is put back into 2WD, the crow hopping should go away.
That little TopDon scanner scans these really fast. It auto VIN's and shows pretty good live data. I posted a video using it on a 2001. The fuse box cover on these models has a little opening in the side that's shaped like a mouse door. They get in there and nest. I've seen chewed wires relating to the 4x4 on these trucks and fixed one that had a nasty mouse hoard in there that made a mess of the harness.
I shift into 4 wheel drive in my Jeep and my Dodge pickup using a LEVER, what a concept, no electronics to go wrong. NOT one broken wire - a rat chewed wire!
FWIW, an excellent USB-C PD alternative for TS80 is Pinecil. (I have both of them, pinecil seems more versatile when working on cars, just connect it to a power bank...)
I use the same techniques to fix small engine EFI systems. 95% of small engine mechanics won't even look at EFI systems but there is really no big deal to them. What I do hate is when someone has hacked, spliced, and used red and black wires for everything in the EFI wiring harness. Trailers are the same way.
My '64 Jeep mechanical shifters for 4x4 and high low range still work perfectly. New F150 has had all the high tech junk replaced in 3 years. Talk about a step backwards with all the electronic crap.
Ivan, not sure if you've done this before, but as a layperson watching your videos it would be interesting to know the total time taken for jobs like this.
Nice diagnosis Ivan! Would it help to keep some moth balls under the fuse box to prevent the rodents from coming back? I have seen moth balls used in AC units for the same reason.
It's getting to classic age so other than getting parts this truck is a Chevy version of the same era Toyotas, it's a rock. My cousin has one and the iron frame is so rusty/welded support it really is not a real safe vehicle, and you would be suicidal to drive it 70 mph..
No optional mouse bait plan at time of vehicle purchase with a three month replacement cycle plus a free bait when the vehicle comes in for scheduled service ? Some "profit center honchos" asleep at the switch ?
Not sure why the transfer case motor had to be removed to shift into 2wd when the front differential actuator shifts it into 4wd since the front drive shaft is always spinning.
