Are you kidding me bro without the help of your videos I would of never been able to rebuild my motor thank you for that sir.Pre order placed!! I got the black hoodie
I think you’re the only mopar technician I watch because you explain everything so good and detailed. Would’ve loved working with you as your apprentice at a mopar dealership.
I f*@king love your videos dude! Thanks for all the super informative and detailed videos. Also at 15:08 you talk about not doing it with a lift. This is how most of us have to work on our hemi's. That's why your videos are so great.
Excellent video, and don't worry about taking extra time to disassemble the engine. Yes, much easier to leave the exhaust headers or manifolds on the head. 2 bolts underneath is way easier than 8 bolts and misery pulling exhaust from below! I run a 180 F. thermostat on both my 5.7 hemi cars, just reset the fan on/off temps with my tuner tool to compensate and both of them run right on 185 F. on the highway even on hot summer days here in AZ. No DTC's/CEL's either. Feel better soon, and looking forward to more great content! Thanks man!
Fantastic video, thank you! Hope you recover quickly! What dedication. Video had perfect blend of detail and good medium and tighter shots. Excellent explanation, too! Great music choices too. Can't wait for future repair and then mod videos. Twin Turbos! Hehe. Have a rescued '07 5.7 Charger ex-police Pursuit with huge miles at 233k, but running well now. When I got it, among other things had a failing water pump, upper rad hose pinhole leak, stuck thermostat, so began to overheat but I quickly shut it off when it started to climb over 1/2. That's also another suggestion to avoid dropped valve seats: watch your temp gauge and shut it off if it looks like it's going to overheat. I pulled over to the side of the road several times, letting it cool 30 to 60 minutes each time, as I made a direct beeline to a shop. I'm certain this prevented catastrophic damage. Also, looking forward to your selection of the top three names for this project from comments on the last video. :) Get well soon. I have watched about a dozen of your videos but now I'm a subscriber! By the way, any way to tell if the cylinder heads have been replaced when you are a subsequent owner? Pretty hard to tell with a car of over 200k as it could have been done a long time ago
I’m sure many will post comments about the things that can be done to prevent the valve drop on the pre-eagle engines but marspeed does a pretty comprehensive video on this. For my part I’m pretty confident that the 170 or 180 degree thermostat swap along with lowering the fan cut in temperatures using a tuner fixes this issue. Some will go as far as disabling or even physically removing the MDS system as well. Cheers!
Its much deeper then that. I had a Non-MDS lifter literally explode a few minutes into me warming up my engine. My car has NEVER over heated. NEVER, not once. I take care of my car, before anything ever breaks. What causes these lifters failures is a combination of things. Idling, is a number one killer. The oil pressure isnt high enough at idle to give good lubrication to the lifters. I idled the dog shit out of my car, but i never had temperature problems. My oil PSI at idle when my engine exploded was 10 psi. That is SO LOW. Ive got the engine back together, new everything. Oil PSI is now 20 at idle. Not sure what changed with the new parts i added, but 20 PSI is a good idle pressure for me to NEVER worry about my lifters again. I will continue to idle the shit out of my car lol.
I had the same problem with my 06' Jeep Commander Hemi. At the time I had zero idea the extent of what the damage could be. I shut the motor 500 feet from my driveway to check my mailbox. Soon as I restarted it, the sound of ball bearings jiggling in a can, came from under the hood. I tried to restart the motor atleast 50 times. This probably helped seal the fate of that motor. Upon tear down, the damage in the cylinders was incredible. Spent over 5K on a rebuilt motor. My Jeep was well maintained and never overheated atleast to my knowledge. My Jeep had 115k at the time. Excellent video man!
Excellent information as always. Pre-order placed. I have also been linking your channel in the description of my channels videos, hope it helps and keep it coming. Currently looking for a new project vehicle myself. Take the recovery slow and don't push to hard.
Sometimes you can do everything right with cooling system maintenance and it'll still fail spectacularly. I had a 2008 300C SRT8 that had the coolant flushed, water pump replaced, and swapped to a 180° thermostat at 100k miles. Unfortunately, some 2006-2008 LX cars with the Severe Duty I or II cooling package (SRTs, police cars, and some Charger Daytonas with dual fans) were susceptible to the cooling fan blades breaking off and puncturing the radiator, trans cooler, and AC condenser. Chrysler's TSB L08 goes into detail. It's a shame because everything else on that car was dead reliable and made for a fantastic 425 hp daily driver. I've since upgraded to a '16 300C Platinum with the 5.7L/8-speed combo and I love it even more. Keep up the great work! Hopefully you'll get past your bout with Covid quickly.
Another great video. Dropped valve seats are definitely a concern when Hemi. Engines overheat. Also, didn’t know about the metals that get exploded up into the intake manifold. Great tip to replace the intake with a new/reman one. 👍
I put a light amount of gasket sealer on my valve cover gaskets days before installing them (only on the side contacting the valve cover) to prevent the gasket from rolling over when I installed them, and it worked great, no leaks.
Great video! Being the owner of a 2005 Magnum RT since it was new, I'm a follower for sure. I changed the thermostat to a 193 and am installing a Severe Duty radiator to perhaps prevent a valve seat failure. The stock radiator is a "Heavy Duty". With the tow package or police duty, the radiator is a Severe Duty and you get an oil cooler. Starting with the 6.1 SRT models in 2006 they get a Severe Duty II. The Severe Duty is a drop in. The Severe Duty II requires larger radiator hoses.
Please find a Hellcat that needs the sparkplugs replaced. That job needs a person like you to demonstrate the tips and tricks that is required for performing that Hellish job (No pun intended.) Most of us Hellcat owners cringe at the thought of someone else doing this. Once again, I find projects like the Magnum extremely helpful. They allow for an experienced mechanic like yourself to share the priceless tips and tricks that we need.
make test of overheating : remove all parts from head, (take broken head) put it in hot oil and heat up it and stir to get uniform temp and test when valve seats become loose
06 300C. In an effort to lower the odds with respect to the valve drop issues, including replacement of the radiator,water pump, and hoses, I’ve installed a 180 degree Tstat then bought a tuner to turn the fans on at 25 degrees cooler (sooner) and disabling the MSD so that the heads would always be evenly heated. (It’s also getting a Charger 3.06 differential) I’m risking running it cooler will eliminate the problem? Please give us an opinion in an upcoming video as I’m sure I’m not the only one wondering if this could help or even be the cure?
No issue with the thermostat mod other than the fan turns on more often and it will run for longer periods. This can place extra strain on the fan motor and in my case caused a failure that also caused the engine to begin to overheat. This did not result in a valve drop but if I was not paying attention it could have. Replacing the fan motor was way cheaper than new heads, etc. though.
@@rayvarnson8976 I’ve not noticed anything’s different other than Temperature is 180 to 196 now I’ve heard if it’s too cold it will run rich but I have yet to look at the plugs. Also there is a “T” fitting on the heater hose near the fire wall made of plastic that will crack so replace that too.
@@benjaminhardwick8378 Not necessarily my friend ! As these cars age the plastic fan blades can crack, break off and go into the radiator It’s a good idea to replace the fan blades and also to check and keep an eye on the bearings in the fan motors as well. I’m hearing if you have the single fan set up the fan motor is more prone to failure than the double fan configuration.
Glad too see you recovering but don't push yourself to hard. As much as we'd all like to see the content we also know you need to get better. Hopefully you've got a good shop heater out there. As always. Looking forward to future content.
Been wondering if I should just swap out the heads on my '05. Its good to hear yes from a real tech. Good content bro! 👍 And my contribution, I'll let the commercials play all the way through.
my suggestion for pulling heads is, at least with the trucks, there are ground straps that are on the back face of the head, but they are hard to see. The straps go to basically the middle of the block down by the trans bellhousing. If you forget to unbolt from the head, then when you fight with pulling the head, you may end up getting tired/fatigued and set the head down on the dowels, which will quite easily scratch the head surface. If you're lucky like me, it will scratch the sealing surface - right where the head gasket needs to seal, so you get a no-expenses-paid trip to the machine shop. Sorry recovery is slow, but glad you're feeling well enough to get out there and wrench!
I've always liked dropping the engine and transmission as a unit out of the bottom on the 300 charger or Challenger just seem like it makes the job so much easier.
I have a 2009 300c heritage edition with 265,000kms. Runs Mint, I don't idle it unless drviethru, early full synthetic oil changes and I drive it hard with 0 ticks
I staked my valves while I had my heads out. It really is a very cheap assurance that takes only a few minutes. If your installing same heads after lots of upgrades, it's just another form of protection on your investment. Always a fun and informative video, sky. I hope you got some hoodies. I need one.
Love the video, take care on recovery. Just ordered the navy blue shirt. Gotta support this channel. I like small logo on breast pocket area and large on back. I know it’s more costly, just my 2 cents. No pressure but the wife’s 06 Magnum AWD has over heated so now it’s a ticking time bomb. Can’t wait for your expertise on options. Keep up the good work!
If it's overheated, and it DIDN'T drop the seats, i'd just say you got real damn lucky. Obviously it could of hurt some things and made it vunerable, but yeah if its working good, id drive it. Not any real fixes to prevent this issue in my books besides new heads with a different design/method for holding the seats in, or just try your best to not overheat
Appreciate your support Jim! We thought about doing the small logo on the front, but for this run we could only do so many different options, likely next time though!
Another great video!! Love the Magnum. I don’t know the exact plans but I’m very interested in headers on the hemi. I really liked the tip of installing the shorties with the heads removed. I’d like to know if that can be done with long tubes. My goal would be to do a cam upgrade and long tubes at the same time. Ready for next video!
I’m excited since you could guide me to help me fix my 05 magnum! So far all I’m waiting on are parts and checking everything involving the crank pistons etc
For this particular engine, isn't it obvious that there must have been some catastrophic overheating event which caused multiple seats to drop out on both heads at the same time? The odds have to be astronomical, unless there was a MAJOR precipitating event.
We need a porting episode, Im doing it now and we need the how to’s, Im going crazy watching these Chevy guys port and polish heads and they are soooo weird, and videos are from 1991, need techniques and tools to get this done for both the heads and the intake. Getting some merch soon love the channel!
You have videos of how to get the engine off from engine bay filmed from the top on 300C project... next film it from below to show all the things you need to do down there too? (Mounts, transmissions etc.) Really excited for this project as a Magnum lover, huge thanks for the tips I asked you few weeks ago about my Magnum and greetings from Finland again.
06 commander with the 5.7 Hemi, zero compression on #7 and low compression on #2, valve seat was blown out on 7. Mechanic said he’s seen a bunch in this era Hemi.
Had Covid in Nov 2020, it will take a couple months to fully recover, taste and smell couple three weeks, another great video, hopefully when this Covid thing is over I can start racing in Woodburn OR. Again Hopefully a meet and greet. Take it easy on your self, stay safe
The valve seats do not fall out from Overheating. It is a material issue the valve seats are manufactured from powdered metal. You just need to replace the valve seats with the updated seats and you are good to go it usually cost about $600 to have the valve seats removed and replace.
The Hemi engine is a powerhouse but man these engines with the cams and lifters in current models and the seats in older ones,and so many exhaust leaks on all of them with real low mileage. As much of a fan that I am I think I’d rather stay with the less powerful GM LS . Makes me appreciate my fleet of 6.0 HD GM trucks (2002-2019)that never have engine issues we run them 15-20 years and 15-20000 engine hours.
Every one talks about bigger intake the better, My concern is NO. Open up the exhaust valve and the better the performance, less power on the exhaust stroke. What is the max. size that the hemi head exhaust valve be opened up to.
Great video the walk thru helped a lot I replace cam lifters 3valves push rods rocker arms oil pump I think I’ll do the manifold too as well why wait thanks all your videos helped me true Hemi tech!! Total $5300 re freshed engine better then buying new truck 2013 Dodge Ram 1500 big horn 5.7 6speed 2nd
i replaced a 5.4 ford engine bought from dealership the intake gaskets had screen wire mesh where if there was trash in intake couldn't get back into the heads i thought that was a good idea
If you get time and think it would be an interesting video could you explain in detail why the hemi has 2 plugs per cylinder, I've read a few different explanations but would like to get your thoughts and understanding of it. Thank you
Sky what are your thoughts on swapping to 09+ heads? I think MMX makes some swap components. I already have the heads just wondering if you think it's worth it. The engine is an 05 and will be getting some freshening up soon.
Do you think it’s possible to pull and install a set of heads with aftermarket shorty headers installed on the heads? Just curious, great video my friend, get better 👍😁
I don't think the shorty headers would be a problem to pull with them on the heads. Long tubes could be tougher, but I'm feeling more and more confident it could be done.
I'm changing pistons and cam in my 2014 6.4 hemi. For the rod bolts. Do they need to be inserted dry or oiled? Or locktight? Same question for my crank pulley bolt and head bolts.
Love the video. Since the intake needs replacement putting a 392 intake mod would be kinda cool too ( it does require some wire work) especially since you want to run the hellcat oil pump.
At the 17:22 mark you mentioned the cylinder head would need to be replaced but later in the video you mention just honing the cylinder and replacing the piston. Which did you do? Replace the piston and hone the cylinder wall a bit or replaced the entire cylinder head (reman/used/borrowed/etc)?
You can see in the next video, because I'm taking this engine back apart very soon, I just slapped another pain in there and replaced the cylinder head with a used one I had already 👍
So is there a milage threshold that makes dropping a seat less likely? My boys truck is a '06 1500 and has 210k on it. I don't know if someone else dealt with this issue before he bought it. It seems to me that with that many miles things are settled in and it wouldn't be as likely to happen. I could be way off on my thinking too. Thanks for the video Sky!
If new seats are installed, I'd try to find a way to get the OD cut with a 0.0005/0.001" dovetail to lock the seats in place once the head cools from the installation process. Good idea to secure them one way or another!
Please show us how to change those valve heads in the future and which part would be the fix. Also if we need to prevent overheating, what is the proper coolant for this engine? Can you mix brands to top off the overflow tank or you absolutely need the exact same liquid?
I've personally just used nearly whatever. It's a Dodge, so i don't think they have any real specific coolant they want. Fords got 11 kinds, VW you NEED their magic 15 dollars a quart stuff but dodge? I ran just prestone or somethingin my 06 Daytona Hemi Charger, 4 years no issues
@@baileyhatfield4273 We just got a 2006 Magnum RT and i think i have a coolant leak somewhere, in the manual it is mentioning HOAT coolant but online it is OAT. Now the other thing is can i just add more in the tank with another brand (same product) or i absolutely need to same product.
5 year (orange) coolant up to 2012, 2013+ 10 year (purple) coolant. Definitely do not mix them, can cause a sludge buildup. And don't mix either of these with the green 3 year coolant.
I actually overheated my 2005 Magnum RT about 20K miles back. The electric cooling fan failed and punctured the radiator. I had the radiator, coolant fans replaced and it was fine. About 5 months ago. The waterpump developed a leak and the engine started to get a little hot (I think it got to about 230degrees or so). I immediately turned it off. I replaced the water pump myself and added a 180 thermostat. So far it's been running great with no issue since these two issues. I'm debating whether I should replace the heads or just drive it to see what happens and then just replace the whole engine if it drops. What would you recommend? Do you think I'm in more of a danger of dropping a valve seat since previous overheating?
I forgot about those fans coming apart! Ya at this point I'd probably consider swapping those heads out just for the peace of mind it'll give you. It's honestly not that big of a job really.
How often do the valves drop? I have a 2008 magnum 5.7 with 95k on it. Would it help to put a scope in each cylinder to examine them? Is there a telltale sign that they need replacing? How difficult is it to swap the head with a remanufactured one? I'm fairly handy, but certainly no mechanic. I just got done replacing water pump, thermostat, pullies, serpentine belt and throttle body.
Where can I find a quality company that does remanufactured heads? I want some fresh ones and get them pinned for my 06’ charger rt I’ve already ran into the problem and had to replace piston #1 a year ago cooling system completely new now I want to have this thing running pristine like it’s new🤩🙏🏽
great content, I'm a DIYer by no means am i a mechanic but I have a 2015 ram with hemi and it has started blowing blue smoke on start up. What could be the cause and is it worth attempting to fix myself or is it a lost cause?
Potentially you're looking at two potential causes for this issue. The first and most likely is the valve stem deals have started to fail. The secondpossible cause it's much more involved, the piston rings may no longer be seating in the bores. The valve stem seal replacement is fairly straightforward. I've got a couple different videos showing how to do it with the heads still on the vehicle. That's definitely where I would start, since the seals are relatively inexpensive and it's mostly labor. You will need a couple special tools though. Check it the videos to see what all is involved. Checkthe playlist on my Hemi powered C10, is replaced the valve springs and it shows you what the process looks like. 👍
I Hope I Didn't Just Jinx Myself By Watching This hahaha. My 06 Jeep Commander Has 175,000 Miles With Original Heads. It's Also TurboCharged So Cylinder Head Temps Can Really Get Up There hahaha. I've Got The Biggest Radiator I Could Fit (Had To Cut Out Section Of Radiator Support). 160 Stat. Never Sees Above 170F According To ECT Ripping It hahah. Them Stock Hydraulic Radiator Fans Are Serious Performers lol. The Only Hemi I've Seen Working At The Dealer Drop A Valve Seat Was A Jeep Commander hahahaha It's Like I Kinda Want It To Happen So I Can Throw In A Bored And Stroked Eagle Or Apache But At The Same Time I Don't XD
I know people mention doing LT headers by removing the heads. Have you personally done that ? I remember your budget Challenger, and the SRT manifolds, just curious on LT. Appreciate all your videos.
@@ReignitedAuto appreciate it, I have heard a lot of people do it, wasnt sure if you have personally. Appreciate the reply. Do you need a 5.7 intake that's not had a failure?
The mopar Reman heads will have an orange sticker on them. Some of the aftermarket companies will affix a little aluminum circle tab to the head to show its a Reman, but most places do not.
You can do it inside the vehicle, but you'll end up regretting it 😄. Honestly it's not that much more work to remove it entirely and it makes it so much easier once you do.
Another awesome video, thank you!! Where is your go to place for reman heads (brand preference)? Also if you are completely rebuilding a pre '09 hemi which parts would you NOT buy aftermarket and are worth paying OEM for?
Can you tell me the 4 Digit number on ANY of the Timing Chain Tensioners you have?? It’s on the front of the plate. I ordered a complete new timing chain set, gears and al from Mopar but the number on the tensioner plate was ONE NUMBER off. My Original one says 1800. The one I just installed says 1804. So I’m wondering if this is my issue or if maybe I have a pulley that’s going bad. Everything is new in the engine, everything, except the tensioner pulley. With the heads being off the engine ( bare block, just crank & cam ) My crank spins free, very good. Cam spins free, very good. But yet. When I put the timing tensioner on and throw the gears on with the chain, the engine gets harder to turn over. I’m also noticing a spot when I rotate the engine where the engine gets hard to turn over, but it still turns over. The Engine rotates smooth until it gets to that spot, then it gets tough, then continues rotating smoothly until it reaches that spot again, This is with the heads on & serpentine belt on, and no plugs installed. So I’m going to diagnose the binding. I can hear my belt whirring against the pulley, so I’m hoping it’s related. I would just love your input. The engine is back together and running. Sounds good, runs good but every other few starts, I can tell that rough spot is still there when it tries to crank. Isn’t every time but some times. whatever that binding is has my butt cheeks clinched right now, but the car is running really well.
Great Vid! I have a question for you. I have a 2012 RAM 1500 with 207,000 that is starting to have the cam/lifter issues, If I just replace the cam/lifters and put in the high volume oil pump you previously talked about to by myself some time before putting in a new engine, is it worth it? Your thoughts?
I absolutely think that would be a good solution. The engines are pretty solid as far as the bottom end goes, I definitely think you could get another 100k easy out of the engine as long as it's maintained properly. 👍
Potentially, but there are two reasons I'd rather just get Reman heads: one, because the heads will likely have been overheated, not only will the machine shop have to fix the valve seats, but possibly they'll have to weld up and refinish the damaged cylinder, check the heads for cracks and deck the head surface. You put all those processes together and it might even come out to more than the cost of new heads. Secondly, pretty much all machine shops are minimum 6 weeks out right now, so it's much easier to get it done quickly by just buying new heads. My opinion only. 👍
What best cam and heads go with for lots low end not trying go 200 just fast 60 and 300ft. Trailer park maintenance man money lol. I’ve tt lots places but if not paying them to build won’t let me pay for parts list
