Here comes the slicing and dicing 😬 (...are we doing the right thing?) 

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By far the most hands on, in real time channel on bootube. What I like the most is the honesty... you guy's rock... thank you for the opportunity to observe the process.

Chad when Welding any flat bars together, you have to bevel at least one side of the flat bar if you don't you end up with zero penetration. That's something you must keep in mind when welding any flat bar together.

Chad, im a young 35 year old man with back issues that worked alot crouched over on the floor like you. Just spent 4 months laid up recovering and my advice is to try welding and cutting off a work bench before it might happen to you! No doubt in my mind it will help ;)

Your doing it your way, that's why we come back every day to see you do it, cheers.

Very doable Chad. You can substitute parts if need be from another Ford or add a hydraulic clutch release unit. Jolene has the video working great as usual. Welcome to Doug - great addition for the build.

I like the 5-speed idea a lot - you've already made the T-bird LOOK sportier, now it will really BE sportier!

I can't believe you just did that to those pedals. To add a clutch pedal you only have to change the pivot bolt and install a ford clutch pedal. The long brake pedal pad can be cut short for standard shift.

I have to say Chad, as a body shop owner here in Iowa, I truly enjoy watching you create these magnificent machines. Keep up the good content, my friend.

That is great,, get right in there and start working and figuring out as you go, on the fly as you are being recorded. Like you said Bad Chad why wait, nothing gets done if you wait. Jolene the camera master is on it again thanx, great job Doug trying to figure out a jumble of metal pieces to the puzzle.

Another one of those short cuts that go 10 miles out of the way from just taking the straight path lol I’m sure you’ll get it done but I bet there’s a t-bird pedal assembly close by that would bolt right in. Great job as always Jolene ❤ Hey Fina❣️

Doug is a great worker. You don't have to tell him what to do. He just goes right to work, and if Chad needs a hand, he is right there.

Chad the early cars have the steering coulomb straight from the steering box causing alot of fatalities in crashes from impaling.... I hate using that word but...ADD a joint in the shaft close to your firewall just to offset it a little and give you some crash protection....Excellent progress in your video today ! keep it up !

Chad and Jolene the clutch pedal assembly looks like it GM from the late sixties to early seventies if you pop the clip of of the shaft on the end the clutch pedal will slide off of the brake pedal and if the shaft is the same diameter you might be able to slide it into the bracket to the T Bird

Thank you for your attempt to put back much of the original parts back on this classic Tbird.

So much more fun driving a stick shift. Great idea. Jolene might be able to find 58 to 60 T-Bird on the Internet with pictures of the clutch linkage under the hood. Generally, there are a few things in the way, like the exhaust manifolds, etc. it might not matter however if you are changing engines. It’s pretty basic stuff once you get the engine in place and you probably won’t have too many problems. I think Jolene would love a stick shift.

My brother in law put a 390 and 4 speed in a 58 Tbird and got an after market single clutch pedal and set it up to be a hydraulic clutch system, it worked really well...

Hi Chad and Jolene Wikipedia tells that a 3 speed manual was standard in 1958 Birds with an automatic optional. So the hardware for a manual clutch would be in the junkyard somewhere. Likely difficult and time consuming to find. Always more "fun" to do a scratch build. Better for "content". Have a great day. Tom at the NB-NS border.

Chad it would have been so easy to just think more a drill the pin OUT and build a new Pin. Now you destroy two Pedals systems. If you never did it before get help . It is always FREE From your Fans that Make you Money. Since you are thinking about a Five Speed . Cut the Rear Axle to shorten it to put Racing Slicks and add White walls like you have Now.

I’ve bought disassembled projects that are not labeled. It’s a terrible mess to figure out but one thing that can help is to find an original parts manual or they’re sometimes available online. It gives you an exact description of what every part is and where it goes !!

Chad, just cut the pedals themselves off close to where they're welded to the arms and switch them back to their proper sides. Then you can do it exactly as you planned. Ive been makin crazy stuff out of other stuff for 50 yrs, you're a great fabricator you got this.

Hi Bad Chad, No flat bar stock, Use a piece of 1/2 round stock, bend it in the shape want, weld it up, it will work fine your a clutch pedal. Also having changed a few Automatics to Stick Shift, they tend to stumble pulling out, do to the Automatic Rear Differential, is geared for the Automatic Transmission. Love the Channel !

I have fiddled with changing over to add a clutch pedal in 57-58 Fairlane with a 351c four speed in it. The 57-58 full size has the same general pedal setup as TBird. As mentioned that bellows is your booster for power brakes. The factory clutch pedal has the pivot pin incorporated into it so when you remove the swivel pin and insert the clutch pedal you have that issue resolved. But if you do away with the KH bellows then even with all factory parts you would also still have to replace the brake pedal arm with a manual pedal as well, though either pedal fits in the bracket. The automatic brake pedal has less stock travel and higher brake rod mount position than the manual brake pedal. When you get to the master cylinder you normally always have a larger bore MC on the PB vs manual brakes. That's because with the power assist of the booster, it still works with nominal pedal travel. If you use a PB master with no bellows assist, you will have rock hard brakes. Both feet to stop it. But since the original master cyl is single chamber you do not want to use that anyway. If deleting the Kelsey Hayes accordion style booster and going manual brakes, then you will need to get a Granada or Mustang manual dual chamber master cylinder. Early Corvette manual dual chamber MC might work also (depending on which side of MC you prefer for your brake lines coming from the dual chambers). And if you put disk brakes on the front that would of course call for a disk/drum master cylinder cuz the fluid volume requirement for disk brakes won't be met by a dual chamber MC designed for drum/drum brakes. I put a Wilwood disk/drum MC on my 57 convertible with 71 Lincoln Mark III disks and spindles and kept the little KH booster, but you can get manual disc/drum master cylinder from any of the big Mustang parts sellers. Since the 351W is a smaller physical size motor than the 352, you might have enough room for a small diameter conventional firewall mounted booster too, but hard to tell without the motor in the chassis. The 68-69 Torino booster has a firewall side pivot bracket on it that moves that booster and MC up and forward from TBird stock location. Brake rod goes through firewall in the same place, but attaches to bottom of pivoting lever on the firewall side and there is another rod on top of pivoting lever that actuates the brakes. I also have a 59 TBird project so following this with interest. Those cars are pretty heavy though. So, I opted for rebuilding a 390 for it instead of 351c or 351w. Reason is because it has more torque and everything bolts right up same as 352. The rear axles were normally fairly high-geared (2.79?) in 58-60 TBirds with automatics, but you will probably overcome the torque issue at least somewhat with the 5 speed, but if you don't then just switch to a 3.30 or 3.55 rear 9" center section to make better use of the 5 speed. Also, if the 351 has anything other than a front sump pan, you will need to replace that and the oil pickup tube. Pickup 351w motors have a rear sump pan that will hit your center link.

Another thumbs up. I have learnt so much watching you. It' given me the confidence to weld together a whole front on my car making the whole thing form 18g patch panels. next shaved engine bay and flush mount window. It's keeping my dreams alive in retirement. Thanks so much

Why did you cut the bracket off the clutch pedal (that is where the heavy clutch pedal return spring attaches to the clutch pedal)?

i think that factory brake bracket was made to be a automatic or a manual. you just needed to add that dual pedal from the one you got from your parts collection by removing the shaft/pin that holds the pedals. if that makes sense. edit- would this be called putting the pedal to the metal? 😁

I have a 60 t-bird, am installing a rack and pinion from a 83 or 86 Chevy Cavalier to get rid of the leaking power assist . also makes more room for headers, and i can install a tilt column for easy access getting in. Gets rid of the gear box and just make mounts where the box and idler holes are and mounts the rack from the chevy. moving auto shifter to console

KEEP YOUR HEAD UP CHAD IM LEARNING RIGHT HERE WITH YOU BROTHA SO IM HERE WITH YOU IN THE LONG HAUL OF THESE PEDALS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SEE YOU 2 TOMORROW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Does the man have a work bench and a vise . If I was him I wouldn't enjoy. Doing labor and being filmed I would be nervous I wouldn't be able to speak. Much respect for BAD-RAD-CHAD.

Changing the length of the pedal arm will change the pedal ratio. Then you have to recalculate the piston bore on the master cyclinder.

My 56 Chevy wagon had cable wipers. Hated those things. So I took a set of wiper arms from a 69 Chevelle and fit those in without much trouble. Swapped the frame into the '56 from the Chevelle also....only obvious difference was you could barely see the frame rails from the side. Sold it with all our other cars before I got a chance to drive it with the new frame. Shame....would have been nice. You can't imagine how I would like to have that, and my '57 back. It's funny. Every 50s and 60s car I had all came with automatics from the factory, including the 66 SS I bought new! Had to change every one of them to 3 and 4 speed trannys because a car is not a hot rod if it doesn't have a clutch. :) A hydraulic clutch is an easy way to go when doing a swap.

Brake pedal is a death trap, no bevel for a fillet weld definitely lack of penetration. Grind that weld off may as well use super glue

they did make a standard 3 speed trans in 58 59 and 60 so pedals are available a simple fix

Just wondering why not just drill new holes in firewall To match your two pedal setup?

This episode was painful to watch. Chad seemed very confused by the clutch/brake pedal mechanism modification. I get that it was somewhat complex moving from automatic to standard trans regarding the pedal configuration. I’m sure there was pressure due to live broadcasting to make a decision on-the-fly on what to cut and weld. It came out looking like a jigsaw puzzle that ended up not going together no matter what he did. IMO Chad needs to get the original illustrated parts catalog (IPC) to sort out what parts go where. All this figuring out (Doug is doing) would be easier. Chad and Jolene could do a little scripting the day before so the broadcast does not come across so confusing. I am a fan. I appreciate what you guys are doing. Just better organization and planning is needed. Jolene-take charge! ❤😊

Flipping the pedals is a very cool move. Looks like one more flip of the clutch pedal very near the pedal itself would get what is needed. One thing that helps on thick bars is to chamfer both edges on one side and weld layers from deep in chamfered groove up to the surface. Then grind a v-cut in the side opposite the first weld and build up again from that other side. Called a 'full penetration' weld. It can be stronger than original metal when done properly. Full penetration is a good thing to consider for safety as the brake pedal may get stomped HARD in an emergency and can't afford a weld failure at a moment like that.

Doing the pedals, all you really had to do was pull the shaft that held the break pedal in, the clutch pedal has that shaft attached to it, you could have just modified that part, I did enjoy watching you do this mod, you do come up some very good ways to get things done & I like that. I look forward to seeing this Bird fly. Rob, Granbury, Texas.

try a chevy cavalier rack and pinion, 83 or 86, and loose the gear box. also more room for headers, and install a tilt column for easy access getting in. make mounts where the holes for the box and idler arm went. gets rid of the power assist that always leak

He is keeping tabs on poor Doug. Funny RAD Chad is prudent cat. Lol.

Now the real building starts 👩‍🏭

Just thinking, if this pedal/clutch doesn’t work, try to find a 58 Ford Fairlane car that’s standard shift an use the pedal bracket. Companies use shared parts on their car lineups.

Take the pivot pin out of the clutch assembly and the two pedals should slide into the original assembly

Chad, you seem to be having trouble with the peddles. You need to remember the break peddle has the round medaliun on it that says disc brakes and it goes in the middle. and the plain one goes on the left, it is for the clutch. have fun, you will get it.

I am so glad Chad and Jolene share these videos .Thank you both for the great work of art. Chad I think you can make anything out of just spare parts. Like what your doing with the pedals, good ideas. see you both tomorrow.

Chad you should watch the nylon bushings on the pivot shaft while welding the mount bracket and pedal arm....they will melt and it won't show this until after a little use and will become loose wobbly pedals.....love the build and the vision.....👍👍

Cut Chop it and Channel what ever looks good. NOTHING ORDINARY PLEASE!! That's why I love Cads videos ❤

Have a great weekend. Enjoy it. See yeah Monday. Sweet looking ride. Great vision.

You need to put the petal you didn't put on back on for the brake petal and cobble the other petal you have welded on back to the clutch 😂. Also make sure you have a hole for the steering wheel. I would have cobbled the original brake on to the new brake petal and then cut the clutch petal off and modified it. Just my thoughts. Great video work by Jolene as usual. Job well done by Doug. Tough to get it right in 60 minutes. Also just my opinion but on mechanical issue you might get Doug's insight as he may be able to lead you in the right direction worth a thought. 😮❤.

Thank you Chad. Great Job on showing you have no fear in making decisions as you go. After all it’s just steel. Nothing that a hammer and welder can’t fix. Great job on the camera Jolene.

I have no doubt in my mind, you've cocked up but we all learn! Hard working Doug, nice camera work Jolene again..(UK)

Rear end gears are different for a Standard / Manuel and A automatic

Definitely making headway on the bird....im really liking the look of it...gotta love manual shift on a custom hotrod...goin for it..cya tomorrow

Drive the pin out of the clutch system and mount it to the side of the automatic a assembly. that should give you the spacing away from the steering and gas pedal..

I love the idea you putting a 5 speed in it I been driving manual cars and trucks since 1966 I am 70 years old now and still enjoy driving them I started driving at the age of 14

I knew it was all going south as soon as you pulled out the tape measure . LOL😂

That rubber boot you took off of the original pedal bracket looks like it would go over the steering shaft, and it seems it would be aligned with that hole in the firewall that other people said the steering shaft should run through…. I suspect that manual of Doug’s has pictures that would take the guesswork out of this.

What I like about your show is that it's real , we see the good stuff and we see the mistakes , but best of all there is no drama some of the other shows have ! Keep it up , Ontario fan.

This was a great video ! Thanks so much ! Every day I can’t wait to tune in this is really great stuff . Thank you .

The 3 of you are doing a fine job. Just a suggestion. Might look at cutting the clutch pedal bar off pedal and turning the bar 180. You do well working on the fly Chad. That's part of the enjoyment is figuring it out and making it work. BTW! Thought of you Jolene a couple of days ago. Blue Corvette went by just like yours. Awesome job Jolene, Chad and Doug.

A hydraulic clutch pedal comes with it own mount and hydraulic cylinder

I have to say this one is a head scratcher, I would have to ponder on the modification and draw it out before I could even attempt to get it right. GREAT job doing it on the spot and I'll see you tomorrow Bro.

Awesome engine selection. Now would be a good time to find a AM/FM/ CD retro radio to change out for the car. Great project anxiously awaiting the finished project.

sonny benfield- the 5 speed will be a 1 of a kind..really kool////maybe add some to the bottom of the skirts and bring them down even with the rockers.

Looking good so far... a lot of puzzle solving but it will be worth it. As always Jolene, great camera work!!

That's fairly easy take the clip off of the shaft and take the shaft out of the and see if them pedals fit into the other housing the shaft should fit but I'm not there so but what I see I've done a hundred times

You love puzzles Chad. But we know you got this one in the bag somewhere . We all have faith in you. Cheer's Jolene for the show. Thumb's up to Doug great helper👍

The 35l w is a pretty good powerplant choice, several tremec 5/6 man. trans. will bolt up and be strong enough to easily handle stock blocks hp/ torque, and windsors were built in ontario for almost a decade... so parts are readily available also.. If you stroked it to 427ci, the T56 could handle it as well. Love the vids Jo n Chad. The T birds looking very awesome, you too Fina. BTW, Great job. ✌️❤️😁

Wish I was in Canada to help with your builds as I've done most. Hoping to move elsewhere to be with my beautiful wife next year.

gday U2 ,from sunny Queensland , i have said it before and i will say it again , this is not a beauty salon ,, it is Chads chop shop , so be it , love ya work mate , cheers

Yes, the petal angels can be tough. , But awsome job so far .and thank you

You are both such hard workers! A big welcome to Doug.

Part 2 to come.. at least you have video to look back and figure it out. Sometimes better to take a step back, and sleep on it.

Well Chad. U just cut off the clutch stop for the pedal. Also the bracket for the brake light to work.

If you would use an acetylene torch you could easily bend your pedals to fit correctly around your steering column, and make room for your feet to fit comfortably. I still don't understand how you can do a lot of this stuff without one. Remember saving time is money.

I'm 81yrs old still have my 66t bird conv. Was a 1500$car in the day . Have to say your a glutton for punishment with that .the body is real good wouldn't have modified it .however you'll have your own masterpiece 🙄 351good choice had one for my ,59ranchero but got too old to change.

Chad the bracket that you cut off of the clutch pedal is for the clutch rod to connect to

Yo just got on to the britannia cruise ship for are honeymoon but had to get my hour fix before going up to the cabin lol. Had 2 turn it down when the disc grinder come out😂😂😂. Keep up the great work over and out from the uk. Rob

i changed a automatic to a manual all i had to do was pull the pivot bar and change it had to grind off some of the pivot point it worked great dont know it i could cut that bracket off to much risk of making it fail it was a 78 f 250 went from a small block automatic to a big block 4 speed

The never give up attitude is great but this is hard to watch. The struggle is real folks.

Put the gas pedal in!!! Bolt in the pedal assembly, then mock up the pedal path … THEN cut things up.

You just destroyed one of the strongest parts of the car. You should replace that entire pedal assembly, that is very unsafe for anyone who drives that vehicle. Do the right thing Chad!

I cried when I saw you cut that brake hanger when u could have got a ford clutch peddle and been done in 10 minutes 😢

Looks to me like the stock brake pedal arm that came with the bird has the the bends in it that you need, and it's laying right there on the floor. Worth taking a look at. you might have to do some heating and bending but it looks long enough to get where you need to be.

You should have left the original brake pedal in place and used a longer pivot rod with a clutch pedal on it that way the column and the pedal pivot to push Rod ratio would remain the same

I believe you have the clutch pedal welded where the brake pedal goes. I think if you switch them the clutch pedal will swing far enough to the left to let the brake pedal shift left and have room…maybe

Chad you are remarkable, your mind is non stop, but you will ask Joleen for help when you are stuck.

looking good...but why not use the existing brake pedal....pull the pin and just add a clutch pedal...you could have just cut the foot part of the brake pedal smaller

Remember to try them with the seat in guys .

I appreciate the art work fast thinking 🧠🌟No doubt in My mind 👍🧠⭐

Chad what you need is a torch to heat and bend the pedal lever

Hi Chad and Joline from the Cayman Islands. Love this Bird.

Making a lot of progress 👍

Hey Chad, i have really been enjoying the channel , just discovered you on you tube. The thunderbird caught my eye, but there was something different about it so I kept watching, once I realised all the work you did to it I had to keep watching... Cheers bud!!

I have to ask the million dollar question but at the same time I understand there are multiple ways to reach the same goal… Might it have been easier or feasible to simply remove the retaining clip on the one side of the double pedal setup, disassemble the unit, do the same on the OEM unit and then reassemble the OEM unit using the double pedal guts? Not being a troll, just curious. What would be done if this weee a ‘Pebble Hill resto mod’ concourse build? I must give mad props for jumping in and tackling this as it shows me how I could do this with a grinder and a welder. I am sure it will work out just fine. Many Blessings

Love the way you re use what you have lying around. Another 10 mins and you would have cracked it! Looking forward to tomorrow's episode.

Why didn’t your take the pedals off and see if the fit the same hole?

1958 Thunderbird had the new 300 hp (224 kW) 352 cu in (5.8 L) FE V8 available with a three-speed manual or automatic transmissions.

i just put a T5 transmission in 28 model A that all mechanical brakes a clutch. i had to remake both clutch and brake petals as they were on the wrong side of the steering column

Once you have that back together then use the other cluc pedal and bend it to the left on the same angle as the original brake pedal that way the foot part or thepedal will be where you need it

I like it, allot of good things happen on building and figuring on the fly, great filming