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Taylor unreal and very informative when doing vids on his own, Taylor, Alex and Rory together and I genuinely believe they could and will create the next big global car show..epic work lads and a genuine pleasure to watch
Not that it matters now, but the reason why that happened wasn't high intake temps. What has happened is you ran the standard injectors with a high lift cam and smaller pulley on a standard map or a poor remap. I know from experience the standard injectors start to lean out on these at high RPMs with smaller pulleys. The intake temps will have still been pretty high, but the ECU can compensate for that and it rarely causes fatal damage to the engine. If you're fitting that cam to the replacement engine then I'd highly recommend fitting some 550cc injectors (from a Focus ST) and getting a proper remap from 1320 Mini. Also that silicone stuff on the inside of the rocker cover is there from factory, it looks a mess and worried me the first time I took one off too. But they are all like that.
I was looking for this comment. Had the same problem long time ago. He has 330cc injectors and needs 380cc (JCW) injectors or the 'standard' 440cc aftermaket. Especially with cams. And a good tune will help also
Also if the intake temperatures were too high you'd obviously get some sort of reduced power mode until temps returned to normal. I'm leaning towards it being tuned but very poorly and the tuner removed safety parameters. It's either not enough fuel or dodgy ecu calibration.
@@R2S1987 And the sad thing is tuners love to turn off sensors and disable things like knock detection just to get that extra 10hp for bragging rights. It's quite a common practice.
Would you say the white exhaust valves is a bad thing or is it better then? I have a R53 with an official JCW kit and to my knowledge, it hasn’t been modified since the install but I do have these pesky white exhaust valves and I am worried it could damage the engine after a while… Any suggestions? Thank you! Edit: by the way my injectors are blue.
Welcome to Deto-nation! :) The missing exhaust valve bits (or rather the fact that it's torched) and the sand-blasting marks on the piston and then the torching towards the edge of the crown/ringland is a clear sign of severe detonation. It may have been caused of that carbon build-up which got too hot during the long WOT (or high PT) autobahn run and then started to pre-ignite and detonate. So you need to look at those injectors in case the spray pattern is not right or even the flow is not right, and also use better oil (I don't care what the owners manual says, you need to put some 0w40/5w40 oil in these engines, ACEA A3/B4 specs, ideally API SN+ or SP, but SN will work) and change it more often, like 5000-6000kms or 3-4k miles. But that's for the next engine, or at least for the one that is currently in the car.
@@teaajay we're just guessing here. Could be entirely wrong 😂 but I do understand your point so I apologise if you feel I've ruined the surprise for you. But on the other hand if they didnt want us to guess they shouldn't have teased it imo
@@AK.2425 I've never listened to their podcast, never been one for podcasts really but maybe I'll give it a listen. - just seen it's titled "I finally bought my dream car". Definitely a 993 then 😂
I have a strong feeling it was a combination of the car running lean and intake temps. I can't remember if Taylor said it anywhere or not, if that R53 was running stock injectors and a stock map or not. It's a possibility of many factors coming together. Possibly weak fuel pump, stock injectors, high lift cam without a map, 15 or 17% pulley (can't remember which Taylor said it had) Chinese intercooler. All of those may have all contributed to this. R53s run a bit lean near max RPM with a 15% pulley on stock injectors/map, so if the (presumably original) 170k mile fuel pump was a bit tired as well it wouldn't have taken much to push the car into engine killing conditions. Taylor, if you're reading this, I'd recommend you get an Ultragauge for your R53. It'll let you monitor stuff like coolant and intake temps, and set up alerts when it reaches your predetermined values. If you had one set up, you'd possibly have saved that engine. (assuming it was an intake temp issue and not fuelling one)
Definitely running lean its the same as a corsa vxr engine, the exhaust manifold design is what kills those, gets too hot in C4's port and starts leaning off at high rpms (around 5k+) I'm so Afraid of my burg engine melting I just don't drive hard
@@MrManBuzz No of course they arent the same engines but what hes saying is because of their design issues the placement in the engine bay leaves them exposed to higher temps from other parts
@@JohnClark-ew8dh The R53 doesn't have issues with exhaust temps. The stock manifold is a restrictive lump of shit, but that's a different issue. It's noble you tried to explain what he meant, but he was still wrong even going with your explanation. The issue with intake temps with the Mini is a combination of it having a top mount intercooler (inherently less efficient than a front mount, just ask any Subaru owner) and the fact the supercharger makes a shit load of heat, especially when it has a reduced % pulley on it. It gets pushed out of its efficiency band. Doesn't help Taylor put a shitty cheap aftermarket intercooler on his that does more harm than good.
The way that Alex turned up into the scene I thought damn he's like the uncle checking on what the boys are on about and then I saw he was having severe back pain, couldn't be more confirmed ha ha.
Taylor's Mini inspired me to get my own. Got a 2013 Cooper S in British Racing Green and I am loving it!! I wanted a fun car that was "affordable" here in Brazil (cars here are extremely expensive) and I couldn't find anything I liked until this series.
Those are standard injectors. Hot cam and smaller pulley on those could be very lean, and hence high temps. Put bigger injectors in your new engine. Focus ST/Volvo 5 cylinder 380cc injectors emulate the original JCW upgraded injectors, and so JCW map can handle them. Or you can go bigger and get custom map
Perfect time to bring it to 1320mini, This is down to running to lean with a reduced supercharger pulley, they run lean as standard and the usual reduced pulleys without a tune make them worse, they are 330cc injectors on the non jcw and 380cc on the jcw models which isnt much more, iv taken my r53 to 1320mini in st.neots, 550cc bosch injectors, uprated catcam camshaft, already had a 17% pulley and i had a grs motorsport intercooler fitted at same time and tuned and now it would be alot more realible than they are out of the factory, intake temps are a major thing on these too the usual ebay intercoolers dont help without any sort of air diverter forcing air into the intercooler, the mini gp1 intercooler wpuld be the best followed by the grs and airtec, 1320 mini also as part of them reprograming the ecu they adjust the radiator fan settings to come on alot earlier than they do from factory aswell they run very hot in standard form, the very first engine mod on one of these has to be a uprated intercooler when the engines in these get to hot the ecu pulls timing and reduces power, the fan resistors can also fail on these without any warning and before u know it it its to late its why nearly every r53 owner has a ultraguage obd on the dash or do the resistor wiring mod, little tip to check coolant temp aswell-- ignition off press n hold black button on centre speedo, turn key to stage1 then on/of will apprear when off apprears then press black speedo button and scroll to test mode 19, then test mode 7 and start engine and drive it will read your coolant temp from the ecu were the time and fuel milage is shown
Happend the same to me..first lap on Nordschleife one of the cylinders stopped working because of the coil, completed lap in limp mode for the rest 15km. Coil replaced and i have done 2 more laps. Clutch was toasted, brakes nearly died. Came back home after 1200km car was still runing okey, you could hear it hissing on acceleration. Two weeks after this, ene of the cylinders shattered when i accelerated. Scratched engine block, almost all valves were bent. 4000€ repair job without counting mechanic work.
I had a supercharged Corrado VR6 and also melted a piston going too fast for too long on a motorway. I think the exhaust got too hot and melted sensors, leading to disaster. The melted piston now sits on my shelf as a souvenir.
My thoughts exactly. I own an R53. stock injectors with an upgraded supercharger pulley with an upgraded camshaft will almost certainly lead to lean fueling.
Guys surely this is your golden opportunity to turbo the Mini, take it back to the ring and let Mischa rinse it around the track? Give 1320 Mini a shout for your upgrades
Hey Taylor as lots of people have said leanness caused by too small injectors and cheapo intercooler...More info for your current engine, bigger injectors, proper intercooler also get a Wideband to help not kill this nice new engine. You obvs know just about enough to keep your right foot happy...OR...Just take it to Bruno..Have him give you a list....;D
you need to get a 3/8 head to replace that 1/4 hex bit on that dewalt impact it will turn it into a little monster costs about £20 from america and will take about 10 mins to swap over
Intake temps would not get hot enough to melt a piston. That’s fuel related, it has ran too lean, possibly due to the high lift cam and pulley size so you’ve given the engine more air but haven’t added to extra fuel..
Looks like piston ringland failure. I wouldn't say it's necessarily because of high intake air temps alone, it's also the sustained load. Basically the piston ring didn't have enough gap, and so grew with heat until it butted. Part of that equation is combustion temperature part is the time spent at the temperature and how it's heat transfered to the ring.
Im a noob. Does only rpm affect the temp of an engine normally? cuz like if he was cruising in top gear while holding idk, 3k rpm indefinitely.., would the engine still remain healthy? .. the buildup of carbon happens a lot more at high rpm?
If anything carbon build up happens at low and from not driving cars hard enough... There are a lot of influencing factors when it comes to "engine temperature", and also different temperatures to consider. For example, high boost pressure creates high inlet temps. However contrary to the video I don't think this is what caused the failure. In my opinion the failure is way more likely to be caused by a fuelling issue in that cylinder. If for example the injector in that cylinder wasn't injecting enough fuel (aka running lean) this would dramatically increase exhaust gas temps and could start melting things 😬
@@lewih585 interesting, thank you for this response! .. this makes sense that at low RPM might build up. I heard the phrase that a guy drives the car accelerating fast and driving it in anger a bit here and there to let the car breath (of course on some obscure roads and when its safe to let the car a bit loose)
PISTON FAILURE REASON>> at extended high boost runs, the rings get very hot. the ring gap wasn't set up for the higher boost/higher temps from the boost, and so the ends of the ring ended up pushing together, and after enough pressure of pushing together, it flicks off the upper edge of the piston. for a proper build with that higher boost, you would want a larger gap in the piston rings to allow for more expansion under those heavy hotter loads
Your pug will likely have N18 engine which was made by Peugeot and found in the R56 Mini... This is an R53 Mini which used the supercharged W11 engine from Chrysler. Very different engines!
This is caused by high wind pressure under the hood not permitting air to flow into the engine compartment and throught the intercooler, causing high IATs and eventually knock. This is a standard issue with STi’s in Germany. Any STi with top mount intercooler driving for long periods of time fast is gonna blow for the same reason.
I feel like the engine should get its own series and re-build it! Maybe do some silly mods like increasing the engines displacement and just see how much HP and Torque you guys can get out of it, maybe even some Nitrous 👀😂
The broken piston is caused by cylinder temps getting too high and the piston ring expanding past its set gap causeing it to buckle and fractor the piston
I think watever the problem with the MiNi normally its the same shit with every Turbo Direct Injection with high torque/power .... the best supporting mod to any Turbo Direct Injection is to add a proper port injection system to it (I add one on my 2012 Mazdaspeed3 tuned to 100 octane few years back to cure the carbon build up) ... do a research on your car to see the supporting aftermarket mods available on yours.