Here's Why You NEVER MESS WITH Your Vehicle's ELECTRICAL System!!

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Here's Why You NEVER MESS WITH Your Vehicle's Electrical System!! Adding A Fuse Block Between My Alternator And Battery!! Add A Safety Fuse To Alternator!! #FuseBlock #AlternatorFuse #ElectricalSystem
** I am an Amazon associate. I make a commission based on sales through my Amazon associate links.**
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Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block: amzn.to/3UHMQI3
Blue Sea Systems MEGA 300A Fuse: amzn.to/3WZF0v7
Hammer Crimper: amzn.to/3TEbCrs
In this video I add a fuse block between my Mechman 250 amp Elite Alternator and my battery. This is something I've been meaning to do for a long time now and finally had the chance to get it done.
A while ago I swapped out my 1995 GMC Suburban factory alternator for an aftermarket alternator by Mechman. This alternator is a high amperage alternator and thus needs a high amperage fuse. Although an alternator doesn't constantly produce it's rated amperage, you do need a fuse that is at least as capable of the alternators rating. So, since my alternator is rated at 250 amps I chose 300 amps to be on the safe side.
**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
FTC Disclaimer: I am an Amazon associate. As such, I earn a percentage of sales made through Amazon associate links found in the description of my videos and on my website and other places.
00:00 Intro
01:30 Safety Fuse Block
02:25 Unboxing Fuse Block
03:00 300 Amp MEGA Fuse
03:30 Where To Install
03:52 Making End Lugs
04:20 Planning For Wire Lengths
05:01 Making New Wire
07:55 Mounting The Fuse Block
08:31 Final Install
09:15 Conclusion

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Опубликовано:

13 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 222

@AgentLokVokun Год назад

You need three things. Dielectric grease, shrink tube, and to cover those exposed stingers on your crimps. That much exposed copper is cringe.

@crazyeye1 Год назад

Yes yes yes yes yes. I was going to say the same thing. Especially if that double sided tape comes loose in hot or cold weather and tips over the fuse block. Shrink tube would be perfect but 3M high temp electrical tape would be okay also. Other than that the fuse block looks nice.

@AgentLokVokun Год назад

@@crazyeye1 What that double sided tape comes off and it's a dead short to the frame... man it's dumb. Even VHB tape would be fine.

@adventureoflinkmk2 Год назад

I know that's right.. share the same sentiments with crazyeye1 here

@1windozesuk Год назад

Yes! Wirefy shrink tube on Amazon is freakin great, double wall with adhesive inside. Gives a nice pro look too for whatever that is worth.

@freshbutplain1144 Год назад

What’s the grease for?

@spelunkerd Год назад

I recently completed a similar project in a boat. It was eye opening to see the higher bar required by ABYC for a salt water environment. Part of the challenge was to properly size the wire and fuses based on voltage drop tables and ampacity tables, with derating for wires in the engine compartment, bundling, and temp rating stamped on the cable. By those tables designed for boats, short lengths of unbundled AWG 1 wire rated at 105 deg C is good for 208-230A inside the engine compartment, depending on cross sectional area. 1/0 wire is good to 242A inside the engine compartment. The fuse is chosen to protect the wire, it should not be much higher than rated ampacity. To go above 300A you'd reach for 3/0 wire, but you could swap in a smaller ANL fuse.

@richie_vee Год назад

Great comments so far.... May I add that per ABYC specification NEVER solder a stranded wire that in in a vessel, or in this case a vehicle (anything that is subject to vibration or movement). Once you solder it, it becomes a junction where solid wire (the soldered stranded wire) and stranded wire meet. Now this soldered wire junction becomes the weak point and will be the failure point if subjected to vibration and / or movement. Man, I cringed at those bare copper terminals myself too...

@daviddownie3431 Год назад

I would have put shrink tubing over the wire connection

@WilliamHollinger2019 Год назад

Agree

@ronsaathoff1561 Год назад

Definitely use shrink tube

@iceman45ification1 Год назад

Yup. I was getting ready to say the same thing.

@tossedsalad5532 Год назад

I would have either used the brush on electric tape or heat shrink over the exposed cable outside of the fuse holder and open ends. If the double sided tape vibrates loose you have open exposed Hot lead lugs to ground. Great video

@JavierPadron Год назад

1000% on a positive wire....

@1RoadGarage Год назад

I will be putting heat-shrink on those 🤦‍♂️ Thanks!

@tossedsalad5532 Год назад

@@1RoadGarage great job on all your projects / I would also bolt your holder down unless your totally convinced it the double sided tape. It is a major power source item and would caution on side of safety over a hole drilled. / Your videos are the best. Only Yellowstone has it beat

@1RoadGarage Год назад

@@tossedsalad5532 Thanks I may put some screws or even bolts in there.

@kenabi Год назад

i have a bunch of marine grade heavy duty heat shrink thats got the glue liner that seals it after it shrinks. stuffs great, and isn't much thicker than the 'regular' stuff, though its more durable. use it for all my big three upgrades. come to think of it, i use marine power wire (1/0 min) and terminals too. didn't really plan that, but they work.

@29madmangaud29 Год назад

That hammer crimper, and copper tubing you have SAVES you quite a bit of CA$H, as opposed to buying something "that exact size"! Good Job Jimmy, always love your shows, always HELPFUL!!!!!!!!! Thanks!

@holeinthesest Год назад

Good video, but I have some notes/tips for you. 1. Using tinned copper lugs (you could tin your diy ones) are much more resistant to corrosion 2. Some Heatshrink and dielectric grease goes a long way. If your gonna go as far as getting a marine grade fuse, why not seal everything else up? 3. I have never seen a factory charge wire fused, and really isn't needed. That said, it doesn't hurt, just overkill. If you are adding copper to the stock charge cable, and follow the same path, and make sure to use some hestshield, and keep it secured, it's more than enough. If it was unsafe, they wouldn't sell the car like that. One thing to consider, is that the short run from the battery to the fuse, is still live and unfused, but now also much closer to a ground location. It shouldn't be a problem if you keep everything tight. I've installed many electrical systems in many different vehicles. I personally have a buick I installed a 370 amp alternator and a large lithium bank into. TLDR: it's much more important that you keep the charge wire properly shielded and tightly secured away from heat and friction, than it is to fuse such a short run that wasnt fused from factory anyway.

@KeeMaster Год назад

I have a Mechman 370 amp elite in my 01 Tahoe, put in there 5 years ago and I still love it.

@jameshall4385 Год назад

A water proof fuse block is great but exposed wire cancels out the water proofed fuse block. Shrink tube is cheap and effective. Especially if you get the kind with the adhesive in it

@missingremote4388 Год назад

It will pop the fuse that he didn't need anyway

@PersonaN007Grata Год назад

Let me tell you this from experience working at a car stereo shop for over 20 years with many alternator installs. If you put a fuse between the alternator and your battery, chances are, the housing will slowly melt due to the heat of the current passing through (If your vehicle draws a lot of current). Fuses are restrictions with impedance. As much as it makes sense to put a fuse there, in reality, it causes more issues than it solves. Just run the cable straight without any issues of getting shorted.

@AverageHouseHusband Год назад

With the exposed lug so close to the frame you have increased risk of a short on that unfused line. Slap some heat shrink on it. (The battery side is is the most dangerous side on that fuse block)

@photog1529 Год назад

I'm still driving my 1995 Chevy 4WD Suburban...even after all these years, its still a good looking body style. I just now installed a second battery on the driver side and getting ready to make the connections to DC-DC charger. Eventually adding a 200W solar panel as well.

@kstricl Год назад

Planning on doing same with 2nd battery on my 95. I've been going through a battery every 2 years because I don't run very long, so I installed a battery maintainer recently. Solar panel is on want list.

@photog1529 Год назад

@@kstricl To make room for the battery I removed the vapor canister...after this many years I'm pretty sure the charcoal was depleted anyway, not to mention the state where I live does not do emissions checking on vehicles more than 25 years old. I also removed the resonator box on the air inlet side and replaced it with a short length of 4" rigid clothes dryer duct which freed up a lot of room for the DC-DC charger on the fender well.

@timofeibenderkarakas4650 Год назад

Great video! I working like a automotive electrician and learn English language, and you have very clearly pronunciation! We will wait something new!

@donhozy Год назад

Great video, as always. The money/time saving tips regarding the copper tubing as raw material for creating your own lugs, to then make your own wires for power with the 2g copper wire are fantastic. I prefer a handheld crimping tool but the hammer one is also a great (and less expensive) option.

@davidmcgee2126 Год назад

Like all the other comments. Tape or heat shrink the ends. Not a fan of adhesive on a curved surface either. But you obviously check under the hood regularly so you will know if anything needs attention

@29madmangaud29 Год назад

Dude, that looked like an accident waiting to happen. You know it's best to keep that copper cable on a hard surface, and rolling it, as you cut, so something drastic doesn't happen! But > I do the same thing sometimes!

@TheOldMan1911 Год назад

I would rather have something built in Mexico 🇲🇽 instead of China 🇨🇳.

@Driver0808657 Год назад

The capacity you want is around 200A SBF (slow blow) breaker. It'll protect the battery if something is shorted and pop immediately with the CCA amps, and blow in around 30-60 seconds at full alternator output/overload. That 300A fuse could let the alternator overload for minutes or longerand never pop 🙃

@justchillin7274 Год назад

yep. You can go with fat cables that can handle twice your output, but definitely going with the correct fuse is always the best, if something draws around 200 then go with a 200 or maybe a 180, fuses are often very cheap to replace :)

@insanelywicked873 Год назад

You are overthinking this. A 300 amp is perfect. Mechman and a few other brands put out quite a bit more than rated. Why would you want a breaker in between that trips when you go over 2k rpms because your alternator is putting out it's maximum output? That sounds ridiculous. Yes fuses do allow slightly more current through than rated for certain periods of time but if you short that wire that fuse will blow guaranteed which is the ultimate purpose of the fuse.

@emblems4life726 Год назад

Not to mention that if the wire fails (overheats) because it is carrying more current than it is rated for it can short out in between the fuse and the battery for which there is no protection at all. The battery will continue to provide current until it's stored energy is depleted or something within the battery or the path to the short circuit melts open.

@insanelywicked873 Год назад

@@emblems4life726 putting more amperage through a wire than it's rated for won't cause a short. It will just destroy the wire.

@Wtfinc Год назад

You soldered and crimped. Love it!

@sheriwillhite2697 Год назад

Tim here, I never thought about that. Thanks for the great information. Doing it to my 96 GMC Suburban tomorrow.

@briancriggs2199 Год назад

First time watching your video and you did a great job!!

@scottdunahoo Год назад

The build your own lugs is awesome. I have ran out before and had to order more and this would have been a great trick to know.

@JustPeaceLoveAndKindness Год назад

Great video as always. Thanks.

@thomasblottman6741 Год назад

Great video, for the engine area you need to use Noalox on your wire before you crimp it and then waterproof/marine heat shrink. Sounds like overkill but I've seen most of your video's and you like to go over and beyond for reliability.

@trialnterror Год назад

I thought about making Lugs with copper tubing also but never did! Now I have this in my box of tricks, I have a crimped though, Amazon sales a hydraulic one with heads for really cheap and it works fine. It’d work great for crimping this!

@jcnme Год назад

Great Job Brother 👏 👍🏻 Other suggestions are good advice too.

@Cotton088 Год назад

Blue Sea is the mack-daddy of marine electrical. I did the same thing you do.... if it is good enough for salt water use it is overkill for automotive applications which is how I roll. I kept all of my old copper tubing for the same reason. Flux is a good thing before soldering. It will help draw the solder in

@Cotton088 Год назад

@text7401 yea, right. I need spam in my life

@larrypostma2866 Год назад

I’ve started putting resting circuit breakers in place of fuses in areas that only require one circuit. Fuses are great to save space in boxes but things that are single run or have large size fuses (which I never have once they blow) all get breakers now. A bit more up front but easy to isolate by opening contacts and so easy to reset.

@AntonioClaudioMichael Год назад

Looks good Jimmy @1Road

@billarroo1 Год назад

Great job. Thanks

@Nyph3r1t3Dragunn Год назад

Ur doing great keep up the great work

@JamesThompson-xl4yu Год назад

Should have mounted the fuse battery connection right at the battery, as now you have a length of wire just like going to the alternator did, but going to the fuse that can make connection to a ground. Also heat shrink would be needed on those lugs. It is still a good idea to fuse the main battery wire, so good going.

@danssv8 Год назад

Nice tip with the lug sir

@fargeeks Год назад

Why do you need a fuse for the alternator??

@ziggy1ful Год назад

I have similar reactions to may of the other posters. Just created more potential short circuit points by not insulating the crimps on the cables on both sides of your fuse block(as well as the back of the alternator, and in the position they are in, easy to get a spanner, screwdriver or something hooked on them if not familiar with what is there, or in a collision your mudguard coming in contact with it. So possibly if your car bursts into fire tomorrow, insurance might be talking about how you made unapproved modifications, as far as I know most cars dont fuse the lead from battery to alternator. Yes, some may have a fusible link, or just the wire itself being the effective fuse, whearas you've connected it with 1000+ A wire which will possibly easily not melt if you get good connections on your short and then create a battery fire. Yes we hear its a 250 A alternator, but many setups have feeds going directly from the alternator to the loads that need them and or to the main fuse block, hence the only current loading from the alternator to the battery is what the battery accepts on recharge and not your 1000 W light bar(or whatever else you have connected) and there would never be a charging current that would warrant such a large wire.

@danhambrick6331 Год назад

Nicely done Jimmy..👍👍

@1RoadGarage Год назад

Hey thanks man!!

@Automotive_Widget Год назад

Before inserting the wire into the terminal-end, you should spread rosin-paste soldering-flux onto the exposed wire for better solder-wetting.

@raymon760 Год назад

I used a marine grade circuit breaker on my gmt400

@swedesspeedshop2518 Год назад

You might not be a professional technician but you are a qualified lawyer

@PaulCTownsend Год назад

Good job.

@oldfart8501 Год назад

Smart fix because a guy should never say never. I had my positive cable to my starter rub through on the fender well while turning in the parking garage killing the truck and started a fire, Talk about panic taking the cable loose when the fire extinguisher failed to put the flames out as I didn't realize the cable had shorted . I now believe in murphy's law especially with electrical components.

@ghollidge Год назад

One of the owners of my motorcycle took it the main fuse out. It's amazing the bike didn't blow up when the starter wouldn't stop stop spinning over. Anyway, it's now reinstalled

@pacificodeluta7507 Год назад

Good job sir

@greggdsciotto8952 Год назад

Thanks!

@nubreed0410 Год назад

I just watched that fuse holder video and brother you ain't a weirdo my wife be thinking I'm cheating on her with my truck and it's a 06 Yukon Denali and all I want to do is replace everything with brand new parts lol

@nubreed0410 Год назад

@text7401 nice on my way to work I build cell phone towers.

@brodygreer5901 Год назад

Select models of gm also have a gem module (computer) for the alternator. If you got one. It's a black box that goes around your negative cable at the battery, and has a pig tail connector going to the vehicle's main harness. Those vehicle's that have them, the volt gauge tends to move between 12.5-15.5 volts. Their intent is to protect the battery from over charging (excess heat during the summer). Just throwing that out, so if you see your gauge moving, it's possible that it's the module. Always test your alternator under load with the engine running. 13-15 volts on a multi meter is what you should have at the battery. Also check the post on the alternator to the frame. That's how you test the in line fuse. If you got power at the alternator of good voltage, but not the battery, than it's your fuse. Always test on a known good battery too. If your battery is below 12 volts at all, it's bad and needs replaced. It's got a bad cell. Use this info, auto parts stores will lie just to make a sale....

@jamesalles139 Год назад

Now add a negative wire between the alternator frame and the battery, for an upgrade. Thanks, though for the video!

@agostinodibella9939 Год назад

I was wondering, if the fuse was rated 50 amps higher than the alternator, is it really protecting it? I have to say that these older vehicles are built way better than GM is making them now and it is great to keep them going as long as you can.

@keithjurena9319 Год назад

Fuses protect wiring. If the diode bridge inside the alternator goes plaid, it might pop the fuse. My truck uses fusible links, silicone insulated wire 4 AWG smaller than the circuit. I smoked a bridge in a 27SI alternator, did not hurt the fusible link.

@johnraynor5095 Год назад

78yr old mechanic would advise sliding heat shrink covering on cables sealing your crimp fittings.

@haideralfadhli8005 Год назад

well done

@1ohmwrecker Год назад

I've got a 300a alternator in my Mercedes-Benz with 64ah of headway lithium to power my audio system. Got my alt from autotech. It's a much cheaper but solid option compared to mechman. You should upgrade a ground from alt chassis to car frame.

@jasonstokes3014 Год назад

Hey Jimmy off topic but do you still have the flowmaster muffler on your 1995?

@torque350hp Год назад

I love tinkering. I might have thought this is a job for a fusible link instead but as long as it works that's what you want.

@kevindavis6042 Год назад

I would have take a piece of hose with the id of the cable and slide it over the cable in areas where it touches hot areas Not only does this prevent chafing but also helps prevent premature burning

@falcorthewonderdog2758 Год назад

If you know what you're doing you can mess with your electrical without fear.

@joebaucom4537 Год назад

Great !

@tangomantactical Год назад

It never occurred to me to inline fuse my zero gage wire from my battery to my alt. I have an audio system and my 160amp 08 Yukon run a tick over 14v constantly. Thanks friend I will fuse it now. What type of camera/camcorder you have on your mini tripod?

@waynenocton Год назад

Liked the video overall, there are a few things that could be better, one, when and if that double sided tape comes off is probably more likely than it was to short before starting the job, leave the tape, and add an actual fastener or two. Also, your soldering would go much faster and easier if you dipped in some liquid rosin solder, don’t use acid core, it will corrode over time and cause problems. I’d also strain relieve each end of both wires if possible, that solder and crimp shouldn’t be the mechanical thing holding the wire in place.

@TheNewtsworld Год назад

Need heat shrink on those ends

@Domnu. Год назад

Putting solder between 2 metals, here the same metals, you increase the resistance. More resitance means more voltage drop across the fuse, means more heat, more loss energy. What you expect to protect? If this wire touch the metal sheet, your metal sheet will be melt before fuse. You can try.

@Bob-fp4qr Год назад

My '99 K1500 Suburban has that type of set up from the factory. MEGA fuse, mounted on the right side of the fan shroud.

@1RoadGarage Год назад

Really? For what?

@jaxturner7288 Год назад

It’s not factory.

@Brendalo1 Год назад

I'm 1/2 way in but still haven't heard the title of the video mentioned the big three "is" messing with the engineering of the electrical system I agree better grounds, especially with older rigs. I also understand the engineering behind the system & I try to stay away from modifications, from secondary sources, out thinking the original engineers is a fools bet but it seems your video should be how to install a fusible link 🤔 I do enjoy your videos & exposure to new products, since city life means.more work & less dudes hanging in the garage unless there getting paid, sharing information is very cool 😎 the answer to the title "Here's why you never " it's simple because the engineer that designed it has spent years & most his life, studying it. a question still remains .. leaving the stock wiring in place is it a good idea ? especially the hot wire from the battery to the starter, the highest voltage draw, I have yet to see this on any video from anyone during the upgrade starter, low on the motor, weather & water exposed has the wrapped stock factory wire ... is it enough? I say no it's the weak link 5/16 copper lugs... a must 👌

@chinesepopsongs00 Год назад

Ok making a very good crimp connection from copper tube. And the ruining it by making a less strong connection special for high current in a vibrating hot environment by adding solder. On vehicles please only use proper crimping connections and isolate with heatshrink with hotglue inside. Solder is evil in cars as it will fail when getting older at some point. It is not if it will fail but when.

@anthonymadeja2527 Год назад

Wouldn't you want to use red for the color since it is hooking to the positive just to keep it standard?

@matthead382 Год назад

Jimmy, have you considered integrating one of the power distribution blocks that GM uses on the K2XX trucks & SUVs? It may be a viable solution to keep things organized under the hood. I am researching this now for use in my 2012 Suburban.

@ypcomchic Год назад

Let me know if it will also work on an 89 gmc suburban please!

@jessihawkins9116 Год назад

Isn’t he going to want that fuse as close to the alternator as possible? If that wire gets cut or burned through it will ground against his motor and short.

@oldtimefarmboy617 Год назад

@@jessihawkins9116 The fuse would be bidirectional. Having the alternator cable short out would be inconvenient because it would quickly burn out the alternator but it is easy enough to replace. The big problem would be the battery shorting out which could cause an explosion and spread battery acid all over the inside of the engine compartment. So if the alternator starts to overcharge for some reason, the battery is protected by the fuse which would blow if the alternator voltage started going out of control and pushing too much current through the fuse (I have seen that happen) which would cause the battery to get hot enough to boil the battery acid. And the battery is protected because if the cable running over the engine to the alternator grounds out the fuse will blow and protect the battery from a uncontrolled discharge and possible explosion.

@matthead382 Год назад

@@ypcomchic I don’t see why it wouldn’t. The GM factory distribution block I am working with is made to fit on a top post Group 48 type battery. Other than that, you’d need the correctly terminated cables for a seamless installation.

@benhawke7231 Год назад

As an electronic technician I can tell you this. You don't need a fuse between your alternator and your battery. But you do need fuses between your draw / drain and whatever equipment that is using the current. Your alternator already has safety mechanisms built in the regulator that won't allow it to cause any safety issues. The only place I'd put that fuse is if I was running a 3500 Watt inverter. I would put the fuse between the batteries and the inverter. I would also put a manual shut off switch between the inverter and the batteries. Whoever told you you needed to fuse between your alternator and your batteries is a dummy or they're trying to sell you something that you don't need. 🤡 Also so you know.. the reason that fuse is sealed is not to prevent corrosion. It is sealed so that way if it blows and there's any gas vapor inside the whole of the boat it doesn't catch fire. Also instead of running a fuse if you're so worried about your alternator overcharging or running too many amps to your battery. It would be better to run a circuit breaker. That way if it trips you don't have to try and find a new fuse at that many amps to replace it with. But you know what do I know? I'm only in electronic technician that specializes in DC for cars and boats.

@davehoneycutt9558 Год назад

were did you buy the alternator thanks

@colonialroofingofnorthcaro441 Год назад

What gauge wire are you using for your ground wire

@jesseobrien5864 Год назад

@1Road you got any used cb stuff for sale

@Mister-Christer Год назад

That looked quite dangerous. You had the plus cable connected to the battery while connecting to the fuse block, just some centimeter or so from connecting with metal wheel well, that most likely is ground and connected to minus side of battery. Maybe mount fuse as close to the battery as possible, since the piece from battery to fuse is not protected.

@electronicscaos Год назад

You know where there should be a fuse? Between the battery and the starter motor. I'd it shorted recently and for some reason it caused the motor to go to 0RPM immediately, locking the front wheels of my car (maybe the alternator plus the lack of energy for the spark plugs caused it) right before smoke taking place. That was my lucky day to be with my ax in the passenger side's floor, so I could fastly cut a cable before the entire car was on flames. Now I've a fuse in any cable from the battery, according to the capacity of each cable.

@ryanhays4504 Год назад

in all my years of automotive i never seen a gm vehicle or anny vehicle in that matter have a fuse on the alternator wire

@juangarzajr6473 Год назад

Ok so I too am not a technician but I have done a couple of car stereo set ups. Rule of thumb is you want your ground short 12-18 inches and the fuse on the power side with in the first 12-18 inches from the power source; the battery. My question to you Jimmy should the fuse in this situation be close to the power source; the alternator? The only part that is protected from a short is when the car is on is that short run after the fuse. Or would you need redundancy and have one at each end since you have the potential of the battery also being a power source.

@juangarzajr6473 Год назад

@text7401 verify you are Jimmy… lol

@josephpuchel6497 Год назад

Hey Just subscribed. Nice work. I do electrical diagnostics and repairs on construction equipment. Seen plenty of butchery.

@janedoe6350 Год назад

I would have just added a fuse at the alternator end of the cable. Yes, just bolt the fuse straight on to the alternator lug, (without a fuse holder). Then re connect original cable to other and of the fuse and sleeve with heat shrinkable tube x2 ... plus, smear with petroleum jelly. You have just added a load of un-necessary weight & electrical junctions that could potentially go high resistance. Plus exposed copper that will corrode and pose a short hazard if the vehicle is crushed in a collision

@lorettacaputo6997 Год назад

Entertainment is when a disaster happens to someone else and you happen to be a witness. Distress and pain is when it happens to you and you are not entertained .

@christopherswanson1628 Год назад

You should fuse both ends of the line since both ends can send power down the line.

@robbiexiong3508 Год назад

Size of fuse? Also it looks sketchy with all the open end points for a positive cable.

@Arinberd Год назад

You use that only for inside electronics and not between alt bat. First time I see it done.

@benkanobe7500 Год назад

Thanks for introducing me to that company. Really looks like nice quality. I don't remember; does the original cable from battery to Alt have a fused link or fuse?

@1RoadGarage Год назад

I believe it was a fusible link.

@benkanobe7500 Год назад

@@1RoadGarage Thanks, James. I am like you and just love improving. I get crap for my PM of replacing stuff with new, but I don't care. I love my truck ('96 K2500 GMC Suburban) and enjoy knowing I am keeping it as reliable or even better than new. Keep up the great work!!

@kstricl Год назад

I just checked - it is indeed a fusible link on the stock wire. Mine has a 12 stamped in it.

@benkanobe7500 Год назад

@@kstricl Thanks! I was going to ask Jimmy why he chose the value for the fuse

@1RoadGarage Год назад

@@kstricl thanks for checking!

@jpeero Год назад

solid mustache

@WilliamHollinger2019 Год назад

Please edit this to have isolated heat shrink on the leads.

@WilliamHollinger2019 Год назад

DON'T REPLY TO THIS!

@mrtechie6810 Год назад

With such thick wire, I'm wondering if that fuse is rated to handle the dead-short-circuit current without exploding? Update: Apparently the maximum interrupt current for that model fuse is 2000 Amps. That should be enough for a 12V lead-acid starter battery.

@VaSKovach Год назад

I own semi truck has no fuse between alternator and starter positive connection. And from starter to battery there i haven't seen a fuse so can someone explain this to me why?

@bblloodd7128 Год назад

blue sea is used on fire trucks for there high volt systems and there easy to install this some know how but if you don't have any high voltage training i wouldn't mess with them

@bblloodd7128 Год назад

added note i would drill and use a button head bolt to mount it with the nut on the fuse side fore a cleaner install and heat shrink tubing to help insulate the cable a bit more but i love your videos keep up the good work

@luketamoncannon3795 Год назад

Can you give link to that alt

@christianworthinton8000 Год назад

A hammer crimper? I just use a bloody big hammer!😁

@soupflood Год назад

I thought the alternator outputs AC voltage and there is a circuit that cuts off charging when the battery is full, but I guess I was wrong. Maybe it has both rectifier and charge regulator built-in?

@kstricl Год назад

Internally an alternator does produce AC voltage, but the circuitry to convert it to DC is built into the internal regulator on most alternators. 70's Fords and Dodges are two that I can think of off the top of my head that used external mounted voltage regulators, but still operate the same. The majority of alternators do not cut off voltage, ever, rather they output a regulated voltage (if they produce enough current to maintain said voltage) of around 14-15v. Lead Acid batteries like receiving a constant charge, which makes them ideal for automotive applications even now with other technology available.

@soupflood Год назад

@@kstricl okay, i had the same thought. Didn't know that there is no cut off circuitry for the battery though. I guess that as long as the voltage doesn't exceed 15V, the battery doesn't get a chance to overcharge. Maybe that's why stand alone car battery chargers with cut off protection output around 18V.

@Ruinedmovie Год назад

I would not use copper pipe to make terminals, there are a plethora of reasons but getting the gauge of copper correct and the resistances right would be hard to deal with, they also would be more prone to corrosion (more internal surface area). Secondly, you should remove your cables, and put heat shrink on them. if you drop a bolt, wrench, etc anything made of metal, you do not want it to bridge with any grounded components. basically any metal part in the engine bay. Lastly solder actually makes connections worse not better, it contains tin which will change from one oxidation state into another and this occurs even in a vaccume its just something the metal does. It used to be used rarely in low amp situations where signal strength mattered, IE a sensor or audio connections, and this was done to prevent corrosion they never saw high amp loads. A better solution is to use pure copper wire, and the correct size fitting in a hydraulic press (which you can rent if you don't want to buy) the crushing force effectively welds the end together anyway so solder is not necessary. There are also self sealing heat shrink tubes. They are thicker and higher quality. I get mine from a Tractor trailer supply store.

@insanelywicked873 Год назад

Most welding supply stores sell copper lugs for a couple dollars each. I don't see it being worth the time to make your own unless you happen to have copper tubing laying around.

@LMcI01 Год назад

I definitely wouldn't have soldered those lugs - soldering a crimp connection just creates a weak point where its more likely to break over time with the vibration. A properly made crimp is stronger than a soldered connection anyway

@stevepace83 Год назад

It's the assembled in Mexico that quantifies the quality. Lol

@jasoncardoza6375 Год назад

I hate to say this but a fuse isn’t a bad idea but it’s actually not necessary. Secure from movement and moving parts is all that’s necessary. There’s an average of 4’ of battery cable from the battery to the starter alone without a fuse and roughly the same amount of 6 gauge ( average diameter size) charge wire that’s ran through the harness back to the battery. Take the argument up with engineers if you disagree.

@hcic8738 Год назад

Ok so did I miss something? I missed the part where u explain the reason for the title of the vid. "Here's Why you NEVER mess with your vehicle's electrical system"..... 🤔

@Echo024 Год назад

Do your own due diligence and come to your own conclusions is also applicable to everything else in life.

@fidelcatsro6948 Год назад

isnt a 300amp fuse too high of a rating? maybe 100amp would be better?

@1117williamtsimmons Год назад

Ummm shouldn't you be using a 250 since the alternator is rated for 250 amps and not a fuse that is 50 amp over?

@bernardfigiel198 Год назад

You NEVER solder ANY crimped connection especially working with high load. Also, you had a proper length of the cable already - it was enough to cut it close to the battery or alternator, crimp it on both ends and fit it to the fuse. And buy some heatshrink.

@xsanchez7817 Год назад

Not a fan of the logic in this video. This is not hate, just constructive criticism. If the only thing we're adding a fuse for is to protect the positive wire to the alternator from coming apart and ground faulting on the engine block, then the positive wire before the fuse going to the battery is at the exact same risk, moreso when it's exposed copper lug is hovering one inch above a grounded body panel, only suspended there by double sided tape. Maybe if it was adequately insulated with heat shrink and fastened down correctly, but you're still at the same level of risk if it was just directly connected to the alternator. Mechman specifically states that many factory vehicles do not use fuses between the alternator and battery.