HeroQuest 2021 Unboxing & Speed Painting Tutorial 

You'll be fine! I'd recommend you start with painting the monsters first (probably start with the skeletons, or whatever you think would be the easiest) so you can build up your skill and work on your techniques. I'd also recommend that you study up on some basic painting techniques if you haven't yet. There are a lot of good painting channels on RU-vid, but the one I watch the most is Miniac. I believe he has some good videos on the basics of painting if you don't already know them. Sorry if you know all of this already, and please disregard if that's the case! But if you don't want to look up videos, I can give you some fairly basic tips. I hope these help some: - *Thin your paints properly.* It's often said that you want your paint to be a milk-like consistency. I typically do a 1/1 paint to water mix, but it depends on the paint. GW paints almost always need to be thinned, for example. But Reaper and Army Painter paints tend to be already properly thinned. As for why you want to thin: Thinning helps your paints apply much more smoothly, it helps remove visible brush strokes, it makes your paints last longer (about twice as long), and finally, the paint will often run and flow into details, which a thicker paint would just gob up and ruin. It was legitimately like the dark ages before it became common knowledge to thin your paints! - This one I'm struggling to explain, but you'll want to anchor your hands properly to give yourself all of the support / stability that you can. A model holder is really great for this too. Usually you'll want to have both elbows down on the table, effectively making a triangle with your hands meeting at the top of the triangle, both hands supporting the other. - There's a lot more I could say, but this last one is just to enjoy yourself and don't expect perfection! If you aren't having fun or if you find yourself stressing about it, take a break and come back to it at another time. Oh, and finally, put on something fun to watch or listen to!

@@jeffjensen8 thanks for the tips :) yeah, ive watched tons of videos already. i even bought a reaper basic paint kit to help me get started. already painted the skeleton and orc that came with that, and getting ready to do the knight. skeleton was so-so, but the orc turned out nice

@@jasonw3414 That Reaper Core skills set is great if that's the one you're talking about! I actually bought one of those for myself quite a few years ago to refamiliarize myself with painting after a long hiatus. My one complaint with the kit is that the metal color mine had, (silver, I believe?) had pretty weak pigments, so I used a Citadel metallic color instead (I believe I used boltgun metal). One pretty awesome thing about the kit is that you can (hopefully!) see your skills improve from model to model. I got a barbarian model instead of a knight, so I'm not sure how much they differ, but make sure you stick through and finish it!

@@jeffjensen8 yep. got the core skills set. not only did i get it to help me get going (and i seem to be going pretty well so far. orc looks good. skeleton is so-so), but specifically BECAUSE it had an orc and a skeleton in it. theres a lot of those in heroquest!

@@jasonw3414 You sound properly prepared! If you didn't know (I didn't, until recently), there is also a "Layer Up!" kit from Reaper that expands on the painting lessons from the Core Skills one. I'm thinking I might have to pick that up to re-reacquaint myself with painting!

Absolutely! My motto is, "a poorly painted miniature is better than grey plastic."

@@gaminggeek241 yes ! Simple wash and shading is enough to start !!👍✌

Glad this tutorial is helpful! I'll show furniture in another video--I'm working on painting up the rest of the minis now.

Thanks! I appreciate it! Working on the gameplay video now so stay tuned.

Good job being brave and diving in! I'm so glad you are happy with the outcome so I hope it encourages you to continue painting minis! You will just get better and better.

Thanks so much for the sub, Kalon!

Glad it is helpful!

Thanks for the clarification! I guess you can paint it whatever colors you want then. I found the actual Witch Lord in the expansions box like you said.

You're welcome! Hope you take the plunge and try painting!

Yes! Thank you! Should have been in the video notes IMO.

Abd this is why I just stick to the primaries.

The grey and silver primers could be Army painter sprays. Uniform Grey, and Plate Mail Metal.

where can i find convertion to all these colour to vallejo cause i have all vallejo codes

And approx how much would it cost if you were just getting into painting minis to get all the colours used in the video?

If you can wait, you might want to pick up Army Painter Speed paints when they release in Q1 of 2022. They are half the price.

Go for it! I'd recommend Army Painter Speedpaint over Citadel Contrast Colors to save money. Good luck!

Oh, I feel so bad that a house fire destroyed your games! I'm glad you are safe though.

Glad it helped!

The expansions are up on BBTS

Just read through the new missions, and the mice and skulls are not mentioned. Closest thing is a tavern called the Rat and Stone.

@@jesternario was relaying what I was told, you did check all the Quest books, it was to be in one of the new 3, I shipped my Mythic to Battlefoam, they are making templates for foam inserts to fit in the Boxes, IF you plan on painting yours Keep an eye out, can't wait for it to get back so I can start painting it up.

Glad this inspired you to paint up your minis!

Do you mean from Dragon's Rest? He has scaled furniture included in the dungeon files, although I grabbed the torture rack and sarcophagus from Kraken Studios.

@@gaminggeek241 Yeah, from Dragon's Rest. I'm not referencing the furniture but the replaced sections of the board to go with the Kellars Keep and Witch King expansions. The Witch King one is a floor with a skull for example. And the trap tiles I was referring to were the trap doors and pits. I have found some that might work on Thingverse.

@@fuzz7981 Dragon's Rest doesn't have the skull floor but they do have the rotating room, which is super cool.

Honestly, I buy the really cheap packs of detail brushes at Walmart--you get like half a dozen for less than $5. Here's an example (get whatever is in your store): www.walmart.com/ip/Royal-Langnickel-Super-Value-Brush-Set-Golden-Taklon-10pc/23081415

I have had no issues with the paint remaining on. Did you try washing the miniatures with warm water, toothbrush, and a little bit of dish soap? Sometimes there is release mold remaining on the mini. Also, I use Rustoleum 2X Ultracover as my undercoating (Walmart).

@@gaminggeek241 That's most likely the issue. I sadly didn't even think about washing them. Here's to testing a varnish and hoping for the best!

Yes, absolutely, you can do just all white. I do that in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-e5uuJ7B-zhM.html

Those are Citadel handles: here in the US, you can buy them here: tinyurl.com/43bjuazf Although shop around because I've seen them as cheap as $10 (or buy the 5-pack).

Thanks for the clarification! I wish there was a picture for reference in the set.

@@gaminggeek241 In the original game you always use the chaos warlock as the stand in for the witch Lord (and Sir Ragnar for that matter). This time around they did a mini for both the Witch Lord and Sir Ragnar, so that was nice.

I used Citadel Contrast Colors which I did buy individually. If I were to do it all over again, I would go the cheaper route and get Army Painter Speed Paints which you can buy in various packs. There are resources online about which Speed Paints correlate with the Citadel ones.

Sorry but I did not purchase the Frozen Horror expansion. I'm positive that there are going to be other painters who will create painting tutorials. Good luck!

I have made my own washes before, mostly for terrain when I need a lot of it. I would need to buy a set of inks to make my own so it's better for me to stick with GW. I use Goobertown Hobbies formula, if you haven't seen that video yet.

@@gaminggeek241 found it, will definitely check that one out now, thanks!

Thanks for the sub! These are called Citadel Contrast Paints from GW. They are a mix between a wash and an ink. There are a bunch of RU-vid vids that explain how to use them so do a search if you want to find out more. Totally sped up my painting!

Yeah, they aren't the best quality--I would say one step down from CMON miniatures but a step above Blacklist Games. They are passable.

Which spray primer did you use? You should still be able to paint over it and a couple coats of clear varnish will protect it.

@@gaminggeek241 it was krylon fusion matte white.

It would work but the Grey Seer doesn't provide enough brightness for the contrast colors to really come through. I would drybrush white on top for a final coat if you don't want to spray it on.

You can buy the base box from Hasbro and it will deliver December 15!

Thanks! Will do just that.

That's a mini holder from Games Workshop. There are a lot of options out there--honestly, you can just use some sticky tack and some corks or pill bottles.

When are those Army Painter paints coming out? I want to try them as well.

@@gaminggeek241 February I believe

Made a tutorial video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jIXfe6Vc6-U.html

Yes it worked. I basically use a small bowl of water and microwave it until it is boiling a little (be careful taking it out of the microwave). It doesn't have to be that hot but since the bowl will cool down, I don't care too much. I dip the bent part for about ten seconds and then lift it out and reshape to where I want it and then run it under the cold tap water (alternative could be to have a second bowl with ice water). Yeah, the dread warriors required work at the mace head and the ankles as they were all leaning backwards! I have no plans to place the minis back into the plastic trays as that seems to have warped them in the first place.

It might be you have a bad batch where they sprayed the release mold right before your minis were injection molded. Try using some Simple Green with a toothbrush and see if that helps at all. I've had issues with other minis (especially resin cast ones) and this has worked for me.

@@gaminggeek241 thanks, I was hoping the dawn would work but it might not be strong enough. A friend suggested goop, I'll see if we still have simply green around. How long would you suggest soaking them?

Yes, that is correct. It is not as dark but it works.

I can't entirely remember but if you are worried about it, you can spend a bit more money and use acrylic spray paint instead such as Pintyplus (Walmart) or Ironlak (Hobby Lobby). Even when the Rustoleum makes the minis a little tacky after I spray it, once I paint them, the tackiness goes away. Also, buy Army Painter Speed Paints as they are a cheaper alternative to GW Contrast Colors. Hope that helps!

@@gaminggeek241 Thank you for your speedy reply! I will look into those paints as well as experiment with at least one mini using the Rustoleum to see if that issue arises. Thanks for your help, and thank you for the great content!

I would just prime it all white and then use either Wyldwood or Snakebite leather for the wood and use the same method as the Gargoyle for the stone.

No, not really. The 2X Ultracover is acrylic so it doesn't react with the pvc.