This is fantastic! I LOVE that you showed two completely different techniques and compared them simultaneously along with the realistic number of layers (and time). The time and layers is something usually missing from most crafting and painting videos. Subscribed and looking forward to more!
Love it, I've been watching some painting tutorials and found yours really honest and helpful. I like the techniques and the results, encourages me to start doing some painting myself :)
Really enjoyed your guide and tips and have been one of my beacon to get all my HQ furniture painted. I paid you homage in my very noob-ly made video :)
I'll save this one for my incoming Conan stuff. It is always good to get a reminder that not everything has to be a 20hr super detailed project. Dry brushing breaks are fun and can produce results to boost the painting spirit. As a side note: The music was a little loud and a bit irksome on repeat (personally I would rather not have it at all).
Whenever I paint a bookshelf mini, the first three books in it are always the colors of for the Player’s Handbook, Dungeon Master’s Guide, and Monster Manual for whatever edition of D&D I am using at the time. It’s a cute little reference that only I will get. I often give some extra XP to the first player to guess that. I guess 25 gold coins for HeroQuest.
For a beginner like me this is absolutely amazing, thank you! I really appreciate you comparing different techniques and paints too. So useful! The only thing I find distracting is the soundtrack in the background, but that's just me. Great video, thank you!
Thanks for this guide. I think it's interesting though that you say the contrast paints and drybrushing take about the same amount of time. The contrast paints took you a single layer, you were done very quickly and had a good result. The drybrushing took you 3 layers for every base color. From here it would seem like there's no comparison on speed. The contrast paints took a heck of a lot less time on that door.
Yes, I agree that the contrast colors was faster, but not by as much as you think. Having a base color already on there saves time even though you are drybrushing highlights onto them.
Great video man and I did what you did with the base primer - flat brown and slate gray and i didn't lose any fine detail at all as another commenter suggested. Question for you good sir - Are you thinning your chocolate brown / ochre craft paints before dry brushing them on the wood parts, or just straight from the pot? I couldn't tell. Definitely following your suggestions, though! 👍
Great job. Looks fantastic. Thank you for sharing. Received my order can't wait to start creating the life in the minatures as I did with the originals. Keep on gaming.
I'm all about the craft paint. I love Folk Art premium and matte lines. I'm in no hurry so having to paint an extra coat (vs. minis paint brands) is worth the insane $$$ savings.
I feel the contrast door looks better than the layered door. If you did the same black iron on the contrast door, the lightness of the stone would've tied in better.
Very nice work!!!! Thank you for the inspiring tutorial! Your techinques are really helpful! Could you please help me with the size of the image for the fireplace? Any dimensions or tips would be really helpful, as i tried to get the correct size but without positive result . Thank you in advance.
I found the rust-oleum slate ultra matte to be way too shiny/glossy. Other than that, this really helped me get started with miniature painting! Thank you!
I'm surprised that you don't mount your smaller objects - doors, skulls, rats, etc. - on to corks or bottle tops for easier handling while painting. Nice work, though.
I was gonna drybrush my doors but i do have a grey primer i dont use, now i think i will do speedpaints on them. Nice little video, Thank you for that. I do also think that HQ is an intro to complex board games and if you end up with a bad paint job it just adds to the childish magic of getting into role playing and gaming. Not that that stops me from painting the characters and monsters to the best of my abilities, i take big chances and try out different techniques that i would be hesitant to do on my nicer gw models. On another note. Has anyone else had issues with paint pooling (hydrophobia) on these models? I primed them directly from the box with citadel grey primer but parts of the models have a hydrophobic surface, on top of the primer. If i rub the paint around with my brush it sorta mixes with whatever is causing the problem and then the paint can adhere. Should i toothbrush them in soapwater before priming or use ipa to clean off mold release?
Yes, that sounds like mold release. You can mitigate it with washing your models with a toothbrush and some dishwashing soap and warm water before spray priming. But I'm lazy so I just did the same as you and just rubbed in the paint on top of it.
Im so glad this problem is bigger than me. Im gonna wash them and remove the mold lines, having copy number 21k and change it kinda needs the love and attention. Had hoped to get this game done quickly, but my kids are gonna be playing this for years, and i want to try to inspire them to aspire for greatness even when it means brushing teeth on orcs and zombies. Im gonna challenge myself to do it in two days (or evenings rather).
I’ve never been so interested in painting minis. And the lack of colors from the missing cardboard from the vintage set leaves something missing. How were the red chair cushions painted before the red highlighting was applied?
I do have a list with the miniatures painting guide if you look in the video description: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-m3b_4FR2KjM.html
Yes, any brown is fine as a primer--the reason I like the really dark ones is you get higher contrast. But experiment with just one piece before spraying everything so that you like the final effect.
Totally subjective--that's why I showed both methods so you can pick which one you like better. Using Contrast Colors is actually quicker so go with that if you prefer.
I would expect that using flat matte primer as a base for Contrast Paints would hinder the paint’s characteristics - ie: colors won’t pull/pool as well because of the matte texture. Would be nice to have a video that tests this theory!
