Your blower gasket issue (as well as other things that have happened with your engine) can be traced directly to the way you're using that delta opening blower. Had the same thing happen with a fuel car 30 years ago when those things were first introduced. Here's the short version (I could write a book on this)...You can run fuel through the hat (blower case in this situation) and use a standard opening blower, or you can use a delta opening blower and run through port nozzles, but you have to pick one or the other. Any time you peddle going down the track, you're creating a momentary lean situation at the rear cylinders...exactly the same as a carb with no accelerator pump shot. It won't show on your egts, but it will cause a flash in the plenum and pop the gasket exactly like yours has.
19:52 Drilling holes with a cordless drill, with a drill press perfectly framed in the same shot, and a Bridgeport in the back corner, right after saying that he loves getting to use all the tools. 🤔
Love the organization in the shop. I just emptied my shop, and I'm giving it a major overhaul as I put things back. Im even giving it a coat of paint. I would love to see more of your storage solutions.
I used to say "My mom told me I have a face for radio" when I worked at a radio station. Haven't heard that joke in yrs. I laughed way to hard at that. Thanks Joe
Louisiana Sunday morning, a cup of coffee, and some finnegans garage. GREAT way to start the day. Love the cadi and blasphemy brother. Cant wait to watch the cadi hit the dyno.
We had this happen when racing our 8/71-blown 32 Ford for the first time. We were disappointed with how slow it was but had no performance data to compare it to. Then it started spluttering on the way home and we found part of the gasket sat on the dizzy clamp.
My dear friend Mr. Finnegan. When Heavey Duty mechanics, cross paths with Automotive mechanics. At may work for you tip. Check out Engine Brake switches for Semi Tractors, like a peter built, or Kenworth. The engine brake switches in them are activated by a longer little spring instead of levers, or rollers or what ever that relie on pin point accurcie. they are a real cool little switch, I have one in my ranger for a brake light switch after the original one died, and use one in my tool box door for the light inside there, since it was made into a service truck and findin stuff in the dark was hell. Chuckles is easy for mee to use these switches having opertunities to dismantle many semi truck wreaks. So checkem out maybe you will be the next to mix heavey truck with Automotive. laughs
If you cant find Moroso Ceramic seal, go to a pharmacy and ask them for some liquid glass, follow the instructions for ceramic seal. Same thing. Used it many times. Looks like water. I also use it in any new engine, stops leaks around head studs and other small seeping leaks
Liquid/Water Glass is sodium silicate. You can get it bulk (powder) all over the internet!!! It is used in industry for dozens of things......look it up, as they say!
FELPRO ... AVIATION FORM A GASKET shellac has been around for 75 plus years i use on all head bolts Head Gaskets on all my Builds especially Hemi Engines Also Napa Has product called Engine wafers for dropping into cooling systems Same as used in GM Engines .. fyi i been building Hemis in our family machine shop Since 1953 awesome video thanks for posting
Hey Mike, love your show, I am a big fan from Australia. Think you are ready to learn some facts about welding though. Welding vertical fillets down with the mig is really bad, especially where you are making a part designed for high strength like the mid plate mounts! Always weld vertical up for strength, down will never penetrate in the root. Fillet welds are weak to start with, don't make the problem worse with a lack of fusion. Also small tig passes look great, nice neat stacked dimes, but the leg length needs to match the wall thickness of the tube or plate to match the parent metal strength. Concave welds are also weaker if the throat thickness is too small, all these things are classed as weld defects in many strength applications. Love to help educate any welders wanting to learn. BTW I'm a welder fabricator by trade with 37 yrs experience and qualified to AWS CWI and Australian equivalent Welding supervisor certifications, we qualify and train welders for defence work and oil and gas pressure equipment manufacture in Australia. Keep up the great content. Love the show. Garth from down under.
My buddy who was a master fabricator that passed away a few years ago had a saying in his shop. “We got tools that make tools” this was right after he made a killer puller out of simple 5/8 all thread and steel plate to get the pin out of my 46 Willy’s for the bell crank. 👍
Just watching the Blasphemi vs FRod episode, just after the 1139hp pull Freiburger looks like he's gonna cry, lol. Wish we could comment on MTOD. Keep it up Finn!
Hey Mike, love all the detail you show. When you said the midplate fasteners were in SINGLE shear, I thought of a fix... weld the brackets you currently have in place. Add a second set, forward of the midplate that are bolted thru the frame, so as not to captivate the midplate.
Man I wanna thank you. Ive been going to PRI since year 1 of Indy back when it was IMIS. My creds didnt come in the mail. We got there and tried to straighten it out and got shuffled between 3 lines and spent 2 and a half hours and almost didnt get fixed. I was super torqued by the time i hit the floor. Then some guy kept shoulder checking me from behind and laughing like he knew me and was having fun. Looked up and it was you! Lol you dang sure dont know me. But between you and Asian running around being himself about the same time i ended up loosing the attitude i had. Lol. Thanks man! Btw the LS for my giant jet boat is coming along nice.
When clamping to round steel the use of a grip tape is recommended especially when pressure is applied to bracket being held. It just gives the clamps something to grip
I know it's a pain to remove a stuck gasket but greasing the gasket may be part of the issue. We use a Moly Lube 111 on aramid gaskets in high pressure air so they come off, but dry anywhere we have issues with them blowing out. I'm not saying to do anything to the blower or base plate but some critical joints have a specific surface finish like a vinyl record to bite on the gasket. Super smooth isn't always the best sealing surface in a gasketed interface.
The "Worlds Most Coolest '55 Chevy" (IMO) looks SOOO good with the shiney wheels! Drop dead gorgeous! I can hardly wait to see The Caddy & Blasphemi cruising side by side! You're a great teacher Mr. Finnegan!
AC Delco cooling system seal tabs #10-108. Can't go wrong with those on a copper gasket motor. We had a 14/1 632ci motor that would not seal up happy. Those tabs solved the problem and were recommended by a very well know nitrous racer from back in the day. Clarke Copper Gaskets also recommended them.
One head gasket trick for hemis is to have copper gaskets annealed real soft. Second trick is to not run more than 6 lb Radiator cap or it will push coolant.
We have always used either the walnut shells tube of radiator sealer or the GM tablets. Long gone are the days I used to just grab the blower and put it on carbs and all by myself. I wouldn't even think about trying that now.
Bro, harbor freight is THE clutch solution to so many problems I’ve had over the years. Now if they just had a section for super cheap therapy, it’d be the only store I’d ever need.
My friend used the same exact product in his engine in my dragster. It was a marine block and weeped water everywhere. It did work but clogged the radiator. Had to recore the rad since it was one off rad.
When I used to weld back in the day nobody could ever figure out why I backed up large gaps with my aluminum block collection anywhere I could. It worked like a charm... Lol
It could just be me, but there seems to be an inverse relationship between the amount of power your making and the reliability of your vehicles 😂😂😂 Can’t wait for the rematch with Freiburger 👍💪😎
i feel like there should be some kinda reward for being this good at breaking stuff. you know, something other than the fat bill for the repair afterward. lol
I really admire your dedication to this engine platform. I guess it might have something to do with the cars name. I wouldn't have the dedication and the patience for it. If it was me the car would have been known as "the gasser formerly known as Blasphemi" about a year or two ago.
@@jasonm3109 yeah. It's not like 2nd gen 426 Hemis are known to have horrible valve geometry, or that the dome pistons and head design are commonly known for not being able to displace heat efficiently, or that they require massive amounts of fuel to prime and start the engine so they are notorious for going lean and burning sh:t up. and about 100 other things. And the parts are super affordable and readily available. Yeah. You're right. Greatest engine ever. It's a bargain.
Something not motor related. I've been watching your videos for years and it now just hit me. Check your local building codes, but in most states if you have your garage/shop below a living space, you need to have something like sheetrock on the ceiling sealed from edge to edge to prevent fumes or flames from easily working it's way into the living space.
Well, darn it. No surprise you are tough on parts. 1100+ hp no wonder,lol one badass car I love the way you rip it down the strip and still road trip it.
If you destroy another blower gasket, next time mark where you cut excess out.. Use a hole or leather punch for round corners then straight cut the lines. I learned many yrs ago alot of different things hold up longer to inside round edges vs square. Good luck mike
Loctite MR 5923 seems to be a good product to use in conjunction with different gaskets. No risk of squeezing it out where it is not supposed to be (applied thin) you applied it to both surfaces the gasket is supposed to seal against. Look it up :) gl with the build
At some point you will need to replace that head gasket. The gasket in a bottle is great for temporary use, but it is not a permanent fix. I speak from experience.
I wouldn’t grease the blower gasket anymore… The grease will only help “lubricate” the gasket to allow it to move. I’ve wet those grey ones with water before, installed and let them dry after torquing before driving. Not like soaked, but just spritzed… However I’d get away from the grey paper gaskets. They make ones that feel almost like a whoopie cushion… They’re normally a greenish in color and I’ve seen them pinkish like a pencil eraser. I’ve had better luck with them on blowout. Or do it like the monster truck guys and silicone the blower down lol. 👍🤘👏
Fin, you missed the most important part; whose puppies were those?!😂 Well, gettin' down to brass tacks, I guess. All the little things that make the difference now. Shop's lookin' good, too! Maybe we'll see the Caddy out this spring!(?) Thanks, guys! Have a good week!✌️❤️🙂🇨🇦
I love how everyone has a story about a job around the shop that would've taken 10 hours with what they have on hand, but how $50 and a trip to Harbor Freight saved them eight of those hours.
On that clutch switch plate, an easier way to adjust would have been to add a fine thread bolt/stud (with recessed hex head) with locking nut as/to the portion that makes contact with the switch roller. One could add a small round plate to the end of the stud/bolt to ensure good contact.
If by chance you still have a coolant leak you could try Irontite ceramic engine seal.Kenworth uses it on all inframe rebuilds to seal the sleeves after replacement.I have used it on automotive for new core plugs sometimes leaking for rough finish on blocks,porisity on aluminum aftermarket blocks etc.Has always worked great.Its the same idea product that you used already.
You should use a throttle position sensor on the clutch pedal. Then you can program clutch events using the resistance without any physical adjustments.
A friend of mine that used to build IHRA Prostock engines alway put that Moroso ceramic seal in everyone he built. Poured it in on the first start up on the dyno.
What it does it softens the gasket so the 2 metal parts can squish together tighter without splitting the gasket. It also makes removing parts easier. In this case running high performance cars ,like this one, may require constant tear downs so if the gasket doesn't split you may get another use. It also brings back hard or dried up gaskets in case you can't get one. I have been doing this for decades, call it old school. Especially carb, throttle bodies and water pumps. Any paper gaskets.@@79nutterbutter
I was wondering about that as well. Seems like the wrong thing, making it easier for the gasket to slip out. I would have sprayed the gasket with some gasket tack. Is my thinking wrong here?
No not at all You're right in thinking it may slip OFF but not out. Say water pump gaskets or timing cover gaskets that has a machined surface and you think the gasket won't stay on glue it on the part then grease the other side, the idea mainly is to not use silicon, gaskets that lie flat or held in place by studs I grease both sides now lets say you have new machined surfaced part going on a pitted part you can glue the gasket on the machined part then silicon the pitted side can't really use grease here cause it will soak through and cause the silicon not to stick. Paper gaskets will suck that grease in like a sponge plus grease that squish's out will disolve into what ever liquid and not cause problem plus it also gives you a lot of time to work with without drying up. On a whole motor I use very little silicon mostly spray glue and grease.@@bugsy9069
If you using aluminum blower studs designed to break away. When you get blower pop/backfire the studs can get stretched a little. Between blower pops and the blower belt yanking on the studs the blower can loosen thru the studs stretching and the gasket force out without the proper clamping forces. Just retoque the blower bolts after a blower pop. If bolts don't torque up with a less then 1/4 turn, then it's time replace the aluminum blower studs
Just change the clutch switch from NO to NC (or opposite of whatever it is now), and mount it on the top side of the clutch arm. That way no matter how you adjust the lowest point of the clutch it'll never be an issue.
Your clutch issue, Go to a magnetic switch, mount switch on a rail on steering shaft, use threaded rod to adjust, think older bikes chain adjuster. Probably glue the magnet, as it should not have to move. Ole Guy
08:00 - i mean, you have a v-band - why not get some cheapo mufflers and connect them with a V-Band for cases such as this? That way your neighbours won´t complain
Hey Finnigan copper head gaskets old trick spray paint them install them right after wet! Torque down and done. If it leak something really got messed up
Ive had success with bars premium. On a stock 350 vortec heads .. lasted for months then friend sold his truck and informed new owner about adding bars ..
I've used that moroso ceramic seal that's some bad ass stuff add a whole chamber getting ready to fall out of a small block head and didn't even know it until I took it apart😂
If you ever repaint that car it needs some proper boat flake.. You should bring it out to Cali and drop it in Sonora at Rick Bacon's shop and let him paint it. Man, Bill Hines would've loved that little belt sander.
If Fin can weld his verticals top to bottom, it’s good enough for me. I don’t understand why people say it’s wrong, guess it must be a mini trucker thing 😂
You need to check out a company called EVANS. Just an FYI, they do make waterless coolant. It is NOT ethylene glycol! You can use it in pretty much any application, racing, off road, towing, ect... And it is approved by all sanctioned and non-sanctioned race tracks. Protects and dissapates heat a 1,000 times better than ordinary tap water!😂
Yes, I know it always had a Hemi in it but could you imagine seeing an SMX engine from Steve Morries Race Engines. I think it would cool to see who knows you may go faster. Lol
19:52 Drilling holes with a cordless drill, with a drill press perfectly framed in the same shot, and a Bridgeport in the back corner, right after saying that he loves getting to use all the tools. 🤔 As touchy as the clutch system is, I would have combined the pedal stop and switch. If there was enough space for a bar or plate as adjustable stop, the back of the pedal and switch could be set together (with an adjustable switch). With something like that, adjusting the pedal stop would not change the clutch switch and it would always be calibrated to trigger that system right when the pedal is released......at least that is how I understood what your needs are. It would have taken a little more fabrication.......but hey, you get to use a bunch of tools, and more importantly it might be much more predictable for making adjustments later, unless the clutch never needs readjusted. It seems like it takes a test and tune day to get it set properly and you don't always get that option if you are in the middle of an event.
We used blue devil for many years did okay . But on diesels would boot last long like 6 months and on Subaru it toke out water pump and still leak took out thermostat and drove like that for a few months
Sealwell cubes. About an inch sqare, crumble it up and the leak stops. Radiators, blocks, headgaskets, heads and intake gaskets all stop leaking. As for water? That is for washing the vehicle, not cooling the engine. Though warm the engine then retorque the heads.
Hey Finn, I was looking at the video of u replacing the blown out blower gasket, I bet ur intake (lower) is warped, needs plained, & if there's a way to drill & tap the inner gasket do that too, better clamping force... My name is Randy Goff, I,m an old mechanic, but to me it's obvious. Let me know what u think...
