This is an instruction video on how to assemble my 3D-printable hidden blade from Assassin's Creed! You will find the stl-files here: www.thingivers...
I reworked this entire model. I even made a pla part for the duel extended blade to lock (the part where the camera apparently crashed). I will upload it to thingiverse if there's enough people who are still interested in this design. It works amazingly well in fact it's one of my favorites
Okay so I've been working on this for a week now, and I've had to modify a few things, and fix several parts that broke because they were too thin. A week later, I've still not been able to amass enough bands for the slide mechanism to work consistently after I've attached it to my arm. Also on that note, the hole, I suppose, for the string to slide through to attach to the ring provides a lot more friction than perhaps it should while trying to activate it via ringpull attached to the hand, HOWEVER, were I to pull it straight, rather than at an angle created by my wrist, it works _mostly_ fine. I say mostly because again, I've not figured out how many bands of the type I'm using (the only ones I've been able to find that fit without a lot of interference are elastic hair ties) will create the force needed to shunt the blade all the way out and back. So far I think I've got six in there, and Gravity is still the champion when it comes to both extension and retraction. My next idea would end up being Shirring Elastic, wrapped multiple times. I also believe that perhaps some of the segments should have been thicker than they are. Were it that they were made of metal there would be no strength issues, however, being plastic as they are, their integrity and ability to withstand some of the forces does worry me. I've already mentioned in another comment below about the Blade housing being thin enough to actually break from activation. I would also recommend thickening out the backplate, and adding more mass upfront where the string hole is, rather than just the block with the hole, to strengthen the entire area. I doubt many, if anyone, would really mind if the whole unit was much thicker if it meant a sturdier construction. I'll update this in the future when I've gotten the mechanism to work 100% of the time. I'm also wondering if some fishing wire would reduce the friction and the weird activation issue (currently using multiple strands of cotton thread). TL;DR: certain parts need to be thicker or need more plastic added to increase the rigidity and strength.
First of all thank you so much for your detailed review/report so far! This helps a lot. I will try to improve the blade through your thoughts as soon as possible. -> I am still very busy at the moment but hopefully this will change in the next two month.
Yo, this was sick and I been working on mine. After sanding some rough patches here and there, I got the thing work. The issues I kept running through was that the blade never really retract or appear all the way. It somehow alway goes to some area to the blade house or either the slider that seem to be tighter. I try sanding it away but I don't want to take off too much. It worse when I place the rest where I dry test them to see and we'll, it would work. Maybe it was the rubber band I used but even without the cover, i remained back at the root of the problem (I think) where it was tight in the middle, back.
Alright so an update. long story short: it works. But (for me at least) it needs to be modified mostly on the upper portion of the whole thing. The two arms that are with the wheel needed the most of it because the angles (The one that makes the center switch move back and forth whenever you use the string) needed to be beefed up quite a bit, but not so much that it interferes with the slider. The inner walls were also a bit too thin, which made the switch barely even touching the ramps. Luckily this was fixed by adding several cut pieces of thin cardboard (such as cereal box or, what I used, the cardboard portion of a pack of batteries or screws in this case) on both side on the wall where the arms go. Measure and cut them just about the width and height. same thing with the arms, albeit you need to stack them enough. Continue to scrape and sand some layers off from there until it works. It is a bit time consuming, but you'll get there. The second obstacle occurred during a test run. Whenever I put the whole thing together and pull the trigger, it didn't work. I try several times to figure out what was the issue until I found out that the left arm that sit right on top of the slider (The one that activates the blade) keeps popping up. What I meant when I say this was, whenever I pull the string, the arm automatically derails itself from the slider. I later found out that the reason for it was the cover. Turns out it was so thin and flexible that it doesn't have enough strength to keep the arms down, essentially preventing the derailment. This was quickly fixed with some rubber bands on the center, which the issue keeps going over. however, there are better solutions to this, either reinforced the cover, make an entire cover out of wood so that it doesn't flex, or you can edit the file to make it thicker. Hope this helps!
Hola muy buen diseño. Puede ser que la traba de la hoja que lleva un trozo de alambre lleve alguna gomita por dentro? Para que se trabe cuando la hoja se extiende
My God this is driving the hell out of me from assembling it. You NEED to make the thin parts thicker and please please keep in mind, glue won't withstand the rubber band
I'm not sure why you made the slider in 2 parts to be glued together. Doesn't printing them in one piece makes the slider stronger? Other than that great video!
This design is awesome! but I have a couple questions about the blade pieces: When you put the blade together, how does the locking pin-piece automatically lock itself when the blade is not blocking it? Is there a rubber band, and if so, where? And it would be really helpful if you could show how to assemble it (only if you find time). Thanks!
Aye, I could really use this info aswell, just paid someone to print this out and I've no idea how it's supposed to spring in! EDIT!!: turns out, in that little slot behind the pin, you're supposed to superglue a section of rubber band as seen here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XsvKXsWY-Js.htmlm38s hope this helps you as much as it does me!
that's it! I did it like it is shown in the video 'SliceyMcBreadmaker' linked. You will probably need many tries till it is working smoothly! @SliceyMcBreadmaker Thank you for the trust in my model! :D I hope you are not disappointed and it won't turn out to be a mistake. I remind you that it is just a prototype and may not work propely for you. If you have any further question please feel free to ask me! I will try to help you as much as I can. :)
@@yoshiolsen6568 Absolute banger of a model lad, I'm just waiting on elastic bands thin enough to power the blade slide, but after spending a day and a half easily filling the plastic down and making it all flow well, I'm ecstatic, honestly! kudos lad, your design is one of the best two-section blades I've seen!
I would, however, recommend that the second segment, the blade sleeve, be beefed up a little and the thickness of the main body to account for that, as I managed to tear through the actual sleeve by simply activating the mechanism.
Hi, I'm having a lot of issues getting the blade to eject properly. I believe i've done something wrong with the slider mechanism, how many rubber bands does it take?
it depends on the rubber bands (tension)^^ I use three/four of these small ones shown in the video. you have to try it out what or wich works best for you! ;) In another blade I use other rubber bands because the small ones didn`t work properly for it.... so it`s mostly trial and error
Hi. Excellent job with your hidden blade it is pretty cool. I like the fact you did it extended. I know piggy jj already did but yours is better. Just a thing: how do you use it with a ring?
thank you! In the files you will find besides the middle-switch with a button, a middle-switch without a button and also a closed cover. At the front of this switch is a hole where you can attach a string (with a ring if you like :D). I hope this confusing explanation is answering your question. ;)
200x35x15mm (without the holders at the side) 4:18 -> the hole is at the left side of the part (you can't see the hole in the video because of the perspective)
Great work! I would also like to know whether you came up with the idea for the thing with the rubber band on it that slides back and forth to control the whole blade or you saw it some where else.
Dude i just litterally freaking out to assermble the blade cover, because idk how to put back the little pice inside with only the printed thing, the missing part of the crashed camera is not understandable, pls someone can help me, i'm in struggle for two weeks, and re-printed the blade cover like 4 times
I think they are called 'loom bands' . ->Low quallity but for testing things out they are great. 3-4 bands are used on the slider mechanism. All in all I recommend better rubber bands. I just used these because my brother had them laying around :D
Can you add a blade that is not extended to the files because I can't get the extended one to work and I think that just one blade is lot more stable and reliable, since the extended one feels flimsy and only part of it extends most of the time and I have to pull the blade, and also if you can't/don't have time to make the new blade, then can you give me the measurements to to the blade, the part in the middle that sinks in etc so I can design my own.
Someone (and by that I mean Chase H. -> thanks man;) ) created a remix of the HB on Thingiverse. This should work! But for the future I plan also an extra version for it^^ Hopefully I will find the time for the whole projekt soon.....
I'm sorry that it didn't work out for you. Could you please give me some more information about your problem? Maybe I am able to help you! -> clearance? (loose fit? ...) -> to much friction? ... Every 3D-Printer performs differnet. So it mite not work for you but maybe it will work for others. With your help I could try to improve it so it will also work for you! ;)
Could you explain why the extentions on the 2 blocking/pushing parts? Why no just stretch the rubber band e full length? I ask because i am having trouble getting mine to extend and retract with enough force. I understand the strength of the bands vary from person to person as well, so I'm hesitant to blame the design just yet.
like you suggested you could use the full length of the main body to get the needed tension. for me it works better with the extensions^^ but be careful when you shorten them! the blocking/pushng parts may not slide accurate on their 'rail' when the extensions are to short. and I definitely have to say that this design is not perfect. It is just a prototype ;) so you are allowed to blame it :D
I still try to improve the blade, and so I would not sell it at this point. Maybe in the near future. I consider a price somewhere around 70€ but I am definitely not sure about that yet.
