In this Series we look at the titans of American fashion. The taste makers whose designs
have intrinsically connected us to deeper elements of the American experience. Across the
decades, American designers have sought to deliver a unique voice to the world of
fashion; bringing their perspective to an ever evolving nation and shaping the look of a
country, as it passes through political and social upheaval and onto a digital revolution.
American Fashion as we know it today, stems from the early settlers; colonists from
Europe, whom brought with them the current dress from their native homes. Once
prosperity struck the colonies, fashion moved away from practicality towards the
decorative and clothing was used as a means of wealth distinction. These early European
influences dampened with the weight of the revolution. With patriots calling out for a
distinctly American style, women began making their own materials and wearing home
made clothes was now considered a political statement, rather than a reflection of ones
ability to buy.
In the early 1850s, a mass market of
middle-class consumers emerged with
industrialisation. Brooks Brothers was
among the first companies to serve this
market, having begun in 1818 as a tailorshop
and growing to 75 tailors and 1,500
manufacturing employees by 1857.
The mid-19th century “gold rush” had an
even greater effect on the US fashion system.
Mr. Levi-Strauss realised that the gold
prospectors would need tents, and ordered
a special resilient fabric from France to serve
this market demand. The fabric was called
serge de Nîmes (serge, from the French city
Nîmes), which we now know as denim. In
addition to using this fabric for tents,
Levi-Strauss recognised that it could
easily be transformed into utilitarian work
trousers. American jeans were thereby born,
and the development of the US fashion
manufacturing system was well underway.
Alongside the invention
of the sewing machine
for industrial use by
Isaac Singer, the US
manufacturing industry
was fully supplied
with a growing
immigrant labour force.
However, the real key to success in this mixture was the
alignment of distribution with production. Department stores
and specialty stores began to focus more retail space and
marketing efforts towards clothing. This alignment allowed
the US fashion industry to move beyond workwear and
menswear through superior production methods integrated
with distribution, and a strong market orientation.
The 19th Century waved in new era of American ideas, which aimed to throw off class
distinctions and promote religious freedom. Whilst style remained important and
refinement still referred to the level of one’s wealth, over the top frivolity was now frowned
upon and social upheaval continued to impact the fashion climate. The rise of the antislavery movement for instance, brought forth debate around women’s dress reform, by
women who saw clothing as a form of oppression to secure their role in society. The
bloomer outfit was developed as a response for the need for more comfortable and
functional clothing. Despite moral push back, it was a stepping stone for the collective
conscience, pushing the needle forward on women’s rights and cultural perceptions.
By the turn of the 20th Century, the 1900’s was on the brink of an industrial revolution, with
an increase of migrants and urban living. Innovations to women’s undergarments, allowed
for greater freedoms and abilities for dressing unassisted. So women began to invest in
fashion at a greater rate, changing their outfits several times a day. But this excess was
restrained with the breakout of the first World War. Women stepped up to the war effort by
taking over the men’s roles and utility took priority over precedence, with women now able
to wear tailored suits for the first time in their history. After the war, women went back to
their regular duties and prohibition began.
ART DIRECTION PAUL G ROBERTS
WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED JESS BREGENHOJ
NARRATION PAUL G ROBERTS
EDITED JAKE BUGEJA
23 авг 2020
