Hobby Cheating 117 - How to Paint Fire 

Always happy to help. :)

Wonderful to hear!

Any time! :)

Yep, you could definitely use a white wash in the same way.

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you sir, much appreciated, as always. :)

Thank you, very much appreciated.

Absolutely, we tend to think of it as very bright, but the colors should actually have a slightly desaturated and muted quality because they are already SO bright compared to everything else on the mini.

That's a great idea!

Always happy to help. :)

Excellent, always happy when projects align with what I put out. :)

New camera, new mic, hopefully better things to come. I will have to re-record some old videos.

The quality improvemnet was very noticeable. And showing your palette is really good.

Thank you! Cheers!

Thank you, happy to help as always. :)

Thank you sir, much appreciated.

In this case, it can be easy, though it certainly isn't always, but I have painted this particular combo lots of times. ALways happy to help.

At some point in time, I have a few other paints and items waiting for review, but I will give them a try sometime this year.

Absolutely, it's just a matter of controlling how powerful it is by thinning it (it's quite powerful straight) and how much is on the brush.

Thank you, much appreciated.

Glad it was helpful!

I like it's hue and intensity (the others are more lemon), but they would work. Fire yellow should have a hint of orange to it and that has the slightest touch.

Yep, finally got my new set-up so hopefully, this will be the low bar going forward as I learn how to use the camera better and we can get real sharp detail on everything.

Great! Looking forward to it - it’s already looking very nice and crisp.

Thank you, much appreciated.

Your dedication to helping us feel like we can do this is extremely appreciated! I love that go through such detail. You’re my favorite tutor on here! Thanks 👍🏼

Basically, you want a light brown. Someone said terrcotta. In general, any light ruddy brown should be fine.

Yep, exactly that, but I would make it random with some stippling so it's more patchy.

Glad it was helpful. I looked at the post. Short answer is you have a nice blend, but it's tough over a solid object like that which isn't clearly made of fire (the weapons in this case). It's tricky when you have solid shapes like that. My best advice on the colors, is you need to reduce the yellow, increase the orange and push more into the darker red/brown/blacks around the end of the weapon. If you really feel like pushing, on things like the mace head, you just want to have that get real dark red/brown/black and put some heat in the holes so it looks like the fire is contained within. Hope that helps and thanks for watching. :)

@@VinceVenturella Thanks Vince. I tried my best with it. I have 2 more maces to finish this squad off I will use your advice on my Champion and see out it comes out. The weapon has the mace balls on it bu also an axe. Blade of Caliban is the name of weapon. I will keep you updated.

I don't tend to go to white, but you certainly can (thought I would recommend still having a slight hint of yellow in there, pure white is going to ring false). That being said, all you would do is not apply the yellow ink as a wash, but apply it the same way I did the orange, red and other colors. The hotter the fire, the more likely the white will exist.

Not specifically, but in general, it's the same process as many of the bone and claw videos I have.

Testor's Dull Cote is usually my go to as well, but I prefer the thing to be completely matte. I don't like a whole mini to be satin or gloss (and even Matte Varnish from things like Vallejo tend to have a slight sheen). My best advice in this case, when you have things you want to be shiny (metal comes to mind), is to do everything you want to be matte, then use your varnish, then do the other items. Those won't be as absolutely protected (but most paint and thin glazes like that are fairly durable) and you will have control of the reflections.

Vince Venturella Thanks for the response. I am wondering if I have "dull" coat. Because it's more satin than anything else.

The simple answer is what you see here on just the fire parts (i.e. make sure those are brightly colored as a base, whether through primer or a bright ivory base coat), then treat the figure more or less as normal. You can go with some char (basically think dark black/brown/red near the root of the flames.

Bone traditionally has a little more yellow/brown than Ivory. Glad the videos help. :)

Sure, any red ink or red contrast would work the same. :)

Much the same overall process, but I would travel from bright yellow green at the lower part up to dark green with a little black at the highest point. I have a video on Warpstone (which has the same color progression) here - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ORYDnYRq-z4.html&pp=gAQBiAQB Here is a pink fire for another example in a different color scheme - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8t35U2Dikt8.html&pp=gAQBiAQB Here is painting Warpstone Glow (which shows the colors again) - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o0MoPXWsdUo.html&pp=gAQBiAQB

@@VinceVenturella thank you very much!

Yep, you are exactly correct. It takes VERY, VERY little white/yellow to create that intense heat, but it works.

@@VinceVenturella Thanks Vince

try the videos hobby cheating 64 for tattoos which are basicly done the same like warpaint but maybe with some "fresher" paint. so less blending in the actual skin would be needed. a kind of warpaint for armor ist also shown in hobby cheating 109

Demon is correct, I haven't done a video on it specifically. I will make sure to add it to the list. The short answer of the difference with tattoos is that it sits completely on top of the skin and should have a small amount of mass. So you want a little thicker and dryer paint basically scraped (it should miss the low recesses or wrinkles like a drybrush) but is applied much more carefully. Hope that helps in the interim.

Matte, completely matte. The reason is you don't white white "hot" spots in the darker parts of your fire (i.e. the orange/red) as that white will ruin the illusion.

Awesome

THe core base of the sword near the hilt would be the hottest part, moving very quickly through a short volume of yellow and orange and into deep brown/red and black at the edges of the blade. Something like this would be a little harder with contrast, because like washes, they are made to settle in the lower parts and you are trying to put the color on the higher raised edges. That being said, you could use the contrast for part of the work if you were just trying to turn everything yellow (such as the early step here).

Should be very close yes.

@@VinceVenturella Thanks. What brand of primer did you use, that is if you can remember?

Stynelrez bone color.

It's a little thinner than Fire Bright Orange, but roughly the same color.

Any yellow paint will honestly work, just thin it out a little.

@@VinceVenturella Gotcha thanks! I have found that the Vallejo air paints are fun to use for things like that. Been practicing my wet blending. I put them right onto the wet pallet and can build the tone up nice and easy.

So the key is the specific paints I used don't really matter. Any brand can work, so any yellow, a deeper orange, and a deep red/brown black. Those are the keys.

@@VinceVenturella Thanks,I try to follow along very specifically with what I use and use RU-vid like an instruction manual so I try to do things exactly as I see them.

Well, in this case, i wanted standard fire since that was the goal of the lesson, but it's a good point that there is a lot more interesting things you can do with the colors.

@@VinceVenturella Didn't expect that you would answer my question, so thank you and I will mention that, this was a great tutorial/lesson on making fire on minis look better.

@@MeisterReaper I always try to reply to everything (try), but thanks, glad it was helpful and you reminded me I should add an alternate fire colors tutorial to my list. :)

So Hirst Arts molds has several fires you can make (that's where i get my logs, small fires and campfires). There are dungeon terrain sets that have fires, though I don't remember the manufacturer. There are also some fires in the bones set.

I don't clean it very often. :)